Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green, FW2019 mfsc Sportsman Catalog, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

Some of the readers might be familiar with our SPEEDWAYS pattern. Originally released in cream and black cotton piqué under the “Speedway Piqué Jeans” moniker during Fall 2011, a modified version (sans buckle-back and with a slightly more tapered leg) made it to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog in 2015, as the Malibu’s, offered in light indigo ‘sea denim’ and wheat color ‘sand denim’.
The SPEEDWAYS made a come back in black in 2017, flashing a fancy NOS matte finish coated denim.
Our MF® tribute to late 50’s/early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2019, this time with a New Old Stock corduroy fabric, in a vintage moss green color. This is the original color of the fabric as we found it, and it has a definite sixties vibe.

The combination of slim leg, extended waistband tab with concealed snaps, and belt loops substituted by adjustable side tabs, seem to have been a 1960’s staple of California Cool, and a wardrobe favorite for iconic actors such as McQueen (see the familiar William Claxton early 1960’s Palm Spring photo sessions.) An early corduroy version of this pant style, albeit with a wider leg , can be seen in the steamy “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” (1958), fashionably sported by another voguish man, Hollywood and racetrack legend Paul Newman.

If you are after non-five pocket casual jeans with a vintage slim leg, and appreciate the streamlined waistband look without belt loops, the SPEEDWAYS could be the ticket. They are among my favorite go-to trousers pattern of the MF® mfsc catalog, and I rarely travel without throwing a pair in my suitcase.

The mfsc SPEEDWAYS Cords are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock 100% cotton corduroy, mid-wale, sixties-vibe moss green color.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers.
* Waistband snap tab à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps.
* Streamlined waistband sans belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: fancy woven dobby stripes.
* Discreet denim-like ‘selvedge’ tape tab on waistband.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Woven rayon MF® mfsc “Sportsman” label on inside waistband.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The SPEEDWAYS CORDS come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine, cold soak for about 30~40mn, spin dry, hang dry.
These are true to size, with a somewhat generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches), and will settle to the tagged size following the above process.

I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc pants, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. According to waistline fluctuations, I cinch one or both side tabs, which keeps the pants up.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch, an easy operation for your local alteration place. As a matter of personal preference with this Speedways pattern, I opted for the sixties-vibe “flood” look with no trousers break. To each his own, but we do not recommend cuffing these with jeans rolls.
When deciding which length works for you before alteration, especially if you are planning to heat-dry these in the future, consider the potential extra shrinkage of the leg seams (due to the 100% cotton thread caballo stitching) which will bunch the fabric and pull-up the inseam noticeably.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.

CARE:
Launder when necessary. These are low maintenance but should be turned inside-out to avoid potential fabric marbling.
Wash in cold water, gentle cycle, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Waist 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38.

Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

 

 

 

Who’s bad? Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS, NOS black coated denim, Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017, made in USA.

Who’s bad.

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS, NOS black-coated crosshatch denim.
Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017.
Made in USA.

Originally released in cream and black cotton piqué under the “Speedway Piqué Jeans” moniker during Fall 2011, a modified version (sans buckle-back and with a slightly more tapered leg) made it to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog in 2015, as the Malibu’s, offered in light indigo ‘sea denim’ and wheat color ‘sand denim’.

This MF® tribute to late 50’s early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2017, this time with a special “coated denim”. This fancy NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the usual light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality..

If this garment initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, each pair will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo, black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion. See the denim wash test photos below, also featuring a small section rubbed with sand paper.

 

The mfsc Speedways are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers.
* Tab waist band à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: sturdy 100% cotton charcoal grey covert chambray.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Speedways black-coated denim come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine: cold soak for about 30-40mn, spin dry, hang dry. These are true to size, with the industry-standard generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches, quite psychologically gratifying for the consumer concerned about his waistline.)
I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc bottoms, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. I did not yet fully wash/heat dry my pair, and wear the W31 with one side of the snap tabs cinched.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.

CARE:
Treat the MF® Speedways black-coated denim as you would fancy indigo denim jeans. Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

If these Speedways denim jeans initially look flat black, each pair will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2017

The Malibu’s, sea and sand. Sportsman Spring 2015, made in USA.

 

Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015 Malibus-blues-(2)Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015

The “Malibu’s”, sea and sand denim
The Sportsman mfsc Spring 2015

Before Jeremy Slate rose to fame for sharing knuckle sandwiches with the King over girls, girls, girls sometime in 1962, he had been one of the men of unusual daring in the short-lived 1960 TV show “The Aquanauts“, a “Sea Hunt” spin off. Based on the water adventures of a group of wreck-diving buddies off Honolulu, HI, the show was renamed “Malibu Run” in 1961, as the characters relocated and opened up a diving shop in Malibu, CA . When not fending off villains underwater (Columbo in latex, anyone?), Jeremy Slate’s character often sported these cool off-white cotton trousers (I’ll have to do some screen captures when i find time).
Slim silhouette, flood length, waist tab, no belt loops, à la McQueen.
More generically, white jeans were at the time a common staple in beachside fashion. Whether you surfed or, like the Beach Boys, didn’t, ‘wheat’ jeans were the thing. If you were near sea and sand, you were not too far from white Levi’s®, pique 519’s, sateen Lee’s, or whatever cream stove pipe jeans or Broomstick slacks the 1962 Sears catalog offered…

We have already tapped in this 1960’s style of pants in our recent past with the piqué Speedways, but figured you could always use another sniff of marine air and added the Malibu’s to the Sportsman catalog. We changed a few things on the pattern, removed the buckle back and slimmed down the fit a bit. This season also introduces two color options…
For the off-white version (sand), we are using the ‘desert denim’ developed around 2012 for the Gunslinger Denim Jumper and Pantaloons, a very textured, slubby, unbleached yarn ‘eggshell white’ denim, milled in Japan.
For a touch of color, “Flipper” (1963) came to the rescue. We developed an indigo-dyed selvedge denim to match the washed-out indigo blue shade ever present in the old sea-faring metrocolor movies and TV shows. During those ‘happy days’, denim distressing was often a DIY thing. Actors in character routinely wore their own personal (naturally-aged) jeans on set. Legend has it that Brando wore his own (studio-altered) Levi’s in “The Wild One” (1953).
For an extra salty seafarer look, the studios Wardrobe Depts distressed blue jeans with the help of bleach and pumice stone. Washed out blues blended better with beach scenery.
Today the world is a much better place, since human intelligence has applied its achievements to prêt-à-porter. Indeed, one can now buy brand new garments with holes and stains straight off the mall shelves. Luckily, trend forecasting and brand promoting blogs never fail to remind clueless consumers where to get the good stuff.

Anyways, we wanted a similar effect without the bleach/distressed part, an indigo ‘Eastman Kodak’ blue, if you will. So we simply opted to start with a lighter shade of indigo for the warp yarn.
Believe it or not, this proved much trickier and challenging for the Japanese mill than producing a dark indigo denim.

So, there it is. Light blue indigo.
Back in California, all we needed to do was brainstorming over a proper name for our new denim. Several meetings later, we settled for ‘Clear skies over Diamond Head as the daffodils dance to the chant of the Ko’olau winds over the sun-drenched lagoon indigo sea wash’ denim, although Cristian was ok with ‘the blue one’.

MBDFLIP EC003 Flipper Conors family

That’s for the color.
When it comes to construction, some might wonder why the legs of our “Malibu” jeans are not displaying the fabric selvedge… We went for flat-felled side seams instead, saving that little white line for the waist band. But don’t let the street fashion brigade give up on you just yet. Should an horrified fashionistozoid© give you lip after noticing your sans selvedge cuff, take off your pants and show them what they’re missing. Flash the handsome pocket bags while you’re at it, we’re talking vintage NOS fabric Jack!
If nothing works, stripping while in line for my cappuccino has shown to be a great way to meet new people, amuse friends, and scare the children.

We realize there are a large number of naked people in this post, and apologize for the inconvenience. Here are two more.

Hi-LadiesWEB Malibus-Sand-Pam

The “Malibu’s” are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabrics milled in Japan.

SPECS:

PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slim ‘stove pipe’ early 60’s silhouette.

FABRIC:
a) Malibu’s Blues: 13 Oz. indigo-dyed denim twill, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.
b) Malibu’s Sand: 12.8 Oz. natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Tab waist band, concealed closure snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when fully cinched)
* Flat-felled seam construction.
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 1960’s vintage 100% cotton stripe twill.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
Most denim will shrink and stretch after the early rinse/dry/wear cycles. This settles overtime.

Both natural and blue denim options of the “Malibu’s” come raw/un-rinsed. They will initially shrink to approximate similar tagged size after an original cold soak and line dry. Please note that further shrinkage can be achieved by machine drying the jeans (turned inside out to avoid marbling), but our chart measurements reflect only line drying.
I am usually a tagged Waist 32 in mfsc jeans, and went with a tagged Waist 31 with the Malibu’s Sea (with no heat dryer.)
The Malibu’s fit pretty slim, our slimmest silhouette so far. The side tabs allow 1½ extra cinch in the waist, when both snapped to the tightest position.

I am personally partial to the ‘flood’ look, as opposed to modern stacking effect, and also think these look better not cuffed. Because leg creases tend to pull the fabric up with wear, it is a good idea to test wear the Malibu’s hem folded inside for a while, and adjust the length to your liking before getting them cut and hemmed. Please note that the original bottom hem of the Malibu’s is made by a single stitch machine.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Malibu Blues

Malibu’s Sea Chart

Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015

Malibu’s Sand Chart

CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning blue denim garments inside out to avoid marbling when washing.

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L33
W29 L33
W30 × L33
W31 × L33
W32 × L33
W33 L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L33
W38 × L33
Retail $289.95

Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com

Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support.

Wheat Jeans, Ranch Blouse and Speedways, Mister Freedom® Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014 Ranch Blouse

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014 Speedways

Ranch Blouse & Speedways: Piqué Bedford Cord
“The Sportsman” mfsc Spring 2014

 

Piqué fabrics are woven on dobby looms giving the finished textile its small geometrical repeat pattern designs.
The French word piqué refers to needle work, as in quilting.

Clouseau

Yes, yes. So it iz be-lieved

One of my favorite of the piqué family as always been the “Bedford Cord”, thought to have originated in New Bedford, Massachusetts, during the golden age of its textile industry, counting some 70 mills around 1920. 18 are still operating today.
Bedford cord fabric is characterized by vertical woven ridges on the face, and tiny ‘beehive’ pattern on the reverse.

In the late 1950’s off-white relaxed fit slacks made their way to the Ivy League scene, often featuring cinch-back or side straps.
By the mid-1960’s, slim light colored jeans had become quite popular with young adults, as often displayed in the ranks of 18 to 24 year-old recruits getting schooled in the Art of War before heading out to Vietnam.

Jim Vestal 1966 Jim Vestal 1966

On campuses, ‘Wheat jeans’ on the slim side had then out-fashioned the slightly darker and wider cut khaki chinos in the heart of many preps.
In Hollywood, the usual suspects seem to have adopted the ‘wheat jeans’ style early on, whether in five-pocket cuts, twills, cords or sateen, ‘Sta-Prest’ styles or chino patterns…
Our man James ‘Flint’ Coburn swore by them, on and off screen it seems. McQueen favored a clean ‘Sansabelt’ type, with concealed snap waist tab, part of the inspiration behind our Speedways jeans.
Most brands went full throttle on the craze, suggesting the matching jacket and pants, as in period HD Lee or Levi’s ads.

Bruce Lee Coburn 1961 Ferrari Dean-Martin-James-Coburn-Murderers-Row 1966 McQueen William Claxton Sansabelt FAKE ad Newman Mark Kauffman 1967 Lee Westerner 1959

After a fierce meetings at Mister Freedom®, we unanimously decided the matching wheat jacket/pants thing was not necessarily a good idea this year either.
So we immediately added the Ranch Blouse and Speedways piqué set to the Sportsman catalog for Spring 2014.

As introduced with our Uncle Sam issue, the piqué Ranch Blouse features the embossed MF® brass buttons, replacing our previous ‘silver’ type.
The modified version of our original 2011 Speedway Jeans and ‘wheat’ Ranch Blouse come in a new Bedford cord fabric. The color we selected for this 10 Oz. Sportsman Edition piqué is slightly warmer (slightly more beige) than our original Speedway piqué ( slightly more grey). They still both appear off-white, referred to as ‘wheat’ by 1960’s marketing departments.

On Style: The boldest will have no fear in the challenging statement of the mighty Leisure Suit when worn as a set, but we do suggest self-control with the wheat-on-wheat sandwich. In most situations, mixing might be a better option. Although wheat jeans are easier to incorporate in one’s wardrobe than is commonly thought, they remain an ‘acquired taste’, so don’t force yourself if you don’t feel it.
We never recommend buying garments you won’t wear, nor do we guarantee success around the pool with purchase.

Derek Flint 1966

Wheat jeans, Derek Flint approved since 1966. Results may vary.

The Ranch Blouse and Sportsman Speedways are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

RANCH BLOUSE, Piqué Bedford Cord Edition


PATTERN:
 An original mfsc pattern, influenced by early denim ‘trucker’ type jackets.

FABRIC: 10 Oz. off-white Piqué Bedford Cord, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Under collar and under pocket flap lining: New Old Stock woven plaid fabric, blue/red check, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Modified collar pattern.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Original MF® lower chest pocketing, tonal “M” stitching.
* Pleated front with MF® original ‘dart’ stitching.
* NOS woven plaid collar/pocket flap facing.
* Brass cast MF® branded rivet buttons.
* Buckle back, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer back.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed cotton label (from our Buckaroos.)
* Made in USA

SIZING/WASHING:
Although only offered un-washed the piqué fabric takes its full beauty after the first rinse/dry cycle. It gains in texture,  with a nice crispy vintage feel. We recommend an original gentle cycle in cold water, and machine tumble dry. If the ensuing wrinkles bother you don’t let them.
WARNING: Some slight ‘crocking’ (color transfer) might happen during the first few washes, from the leather washers of the copper rivets, making somewhat of a ‘rust’ stain on the off-white piqué fabric. This is not permanent and will fade after further washing/drying cycles. DO NOT BOIL, as in the simple equation: (leather) + (boiling water) = soup.

For reasons familiar only to those well versed in crystal ball reading, our piqué Ranch Blouse fits a bit larger than the previous Lot.64 Ranch Blouse. JD and I went for a tight 36 in the piqué but wear a 38 in the denim Lot.64 version.
If you are in between sizes we recommend sizing down. If you do not like the shorter/cropped look of old trucker denim jackets however, staying with the same size will work as well.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Ranch Blouse Pique Mister Freedom

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Sizes
34
 X-small
36
 Small
38
 Medium
40
 Large
42
 X-Large
Retail $359.95

 

SPORTSMAN SPEEDWAY, Piqué Bedford Cord

 

PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slimmer silhouette (not skinny though)

FABRIC: 10 Oz. off-white Piqué Bedford Cord, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Extended tab waist band, double concealed snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Functional cinch back strap to adjust waist (up to 2 inches adjustment.)
* Lapseam chainstitch leg construction, both outside and inside seams.
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 100% cotton stripe blue/white twill.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* “M” stitched back pockets.
* Inside waistband Sportsman woven label.
* Selvedge tape red/white/blue tab on waistband.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.

SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
Although only offered un-washed the piqué fabric takes its full beauty after the first rinse/dry cycle. It gains in texture,  with a nice crispy vintage feel. We recommend an original gentle cycle in cold water, and line dry for a crispy vintage feel.
WARNING: Please note that some light crocking (bluish color transfer) will occur during the first wash cycles, due to the blue color of the striped pocket bags NOS fabric. This will fade with further washes and is not permanent. Using an electric/gas dryer instead of line-dry will increase the crocking slightly.

Minimal waist shrinkage with this pique fabric, shrinks mostly in length (about one inch)
I am a W32 in the Californian Lot.64 Blue Jeans and wear a Waist 32 in the Speedway, a bit cinched in the back to accommodate my girly figure. Both fits are somewhat similar.
The bottom hems are not chain-stitched, making shortening the jeans an easy alteration with a single needle machine. Measuring it right to your liking being the most challenging task.
My  personal preference tends towards a slight ‘high water’/flood look.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Speedway Pique

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes

W28 × L33
W29 x L33
W30 × L33
W31 × L33
W32 × L33
W33 x L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L33
W38 × L33
Retail $279.95

Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com

Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂