Mister Freedom® “Conductor Slacks”, Malibu denim, Sportsman Catalog Spring 2017, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “Conductor Slacks”, selvedge ‘Malibu denim’.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2017
Made in USA.

Following the addition of a new pattern to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog this Spring, the fancy Choo-Choo-Charlie-denim-jacket-for-the-caboose-inclined-and-vintage-iron-horse-connoisseur aka the Conductor jacket, we felt compelled to match it with a muy loco version of our Sportsman Slacks.

If we don’t recommend wearing both as a set for a job interview, our Conductor jacket and slacks are pretty versatile pieces. Both patterns blend workwear and early tailor-made Gentleman’s garb, in a light indigo denim treatment we refer to as “Malibu Denim”. Milled in Japan and introduced a few years ago, this particular denim is an old MF® favorite. Technically, it is quite tricky for a dye-house to control a lighter shade of indigo (darker shades are easier to keep consistent, as you can always do another dip…), so we are very happy that this new 2017 batch is as beautiful and unique as its 2015 and 2016 predecessors.

With normal wear, this ‘Malibu denim’ will fade to an attractive range of exotic and dreamy lagoon blues. Its specific indigo hue makes it quite complimenting to other darker denim twills. Pair it with the MF® Cowboy Jacket in dark loomstate NOS Cone denim or Wheat denim, with the twill color palette of our Continental sportcoats etc…

The Conductor Slacks garment pattern is inspired by vintage Gentlemen trousers, blending Old and New World, combining fancy tailoring and utilitarian workwear. Originally introduced during our !Viva La Revolucion! days (2013), the pattern was adapted in 2015 to be added to our Sportsman Catalog as a Gun Powder linen-cotton HBT option. The Vaquero Jeans had become the Sportsman Slacks, a reincarnation a tinge overshadowed by tragic events at the time…
Here they are again for Spring 2017, released as the Conductor Slacks.

The Conductor Slacks are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

NOTE: Some of the photos feature an hemmed pair of Conductor Slacks (with a stitched 1½’’ plain trousers fold). Production comes with an open overlocked bottom with a generous inseam, for your cuffing preference.

PATTERN:
Revisited MF® Vaquero denim jeans style from our !Viva La Revolución! 2013 collection, aka the Sportsman Slacks.
An original pattern inspired by early European trousers and work dungarees.

FABRIC:
Original mfsc “Malibu Sea” denim, 13 Oz. indigo-dyed denim twill, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Vintage European trousers-type construction, no back yoke.
* “Cowboy” front pocket opening.
* Oxidized black ‘donut’ wreath waist button.
* Unmarked utilitarian ‘donut’ metal fly buttons.
* Two rear welt pockets.
* Pocketing and lining from fancy NOS woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave fabric (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.
* Rear reinforcement lining patching.
* Side cinch tabs, adjustable with NOS vintage French metal buckles.
* Selvedge leg side seam.
* Open inseam, overlocked bottom hem, for your cuffing preference (hemmed, double hemmed, rolled…)
* Turn-of-the-century style flared waistband (narrower in back).
* Slim belt loops (trousers style).
* All cotton thread navy blue stitching.
* Green bar-tack Sportsman accents and inside chainstitch.
* Original MF® “The Sportsman” woven rayon black label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Conductor Slacks comes UN-WASHED (=raw, loomstate) and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
* As an optional step, wear the garment briefly when still not fully dry, in order to slightly shape it to your body and set creases. Hang and let fully dry.
The denim garment will stiffen when dry due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns, a normal reaction that will rapidly subside with normal wear.

Fit: If the soaked Waist 32 felt more comfortable, I opted for a Waist 30 in the Conductor Slacks. The waist should give a bit to better accommodate my girly 31’’ waist. Whether going for the slimmer look of the W30 or the more generous silhouette of the W32 is a matter of preference. I personally decided to size down on these.
For hemming, i opted for a stitched 1½’’ plain trousers fold.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the trousers inside out to avoid marbling on the indigo side.
Hand washing can be a good option if concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes (W stands for Waist)
W 28 x L
W 29 x L
W 30 x L
W 31 x L
W 32 x L
W 33 x L
W 34 x L
W 36 x L
W 38 x L
Retail $329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2017

Mister Freedom® Sportsman Slacks, cotton-linen herringbone twill, Fall 2015, made in USA.

Sportsman-Slacks-7

Sportsman-Slacks-8

Sportsman-Slacks-4

Sportsman-Slacks-3

Sportsman-Slacks-1

Mister Freedom ® Sportsman Slacks, HBT cotton-linen.
“The Sportsman” Fall 2015, made in USA.

A bit challenging to take this show back on the road in the wake of the recent events in Paris… Times like these put things in perspective a bit, rendering any kind of fashion-related discussions perfectly incongruous for me. Those feeling unconcerned due to geographical distances or pressing fabric shrinkage concerns might want to fast-forward to the fascinating washing instructions and sizing chart below.
Personally, i’ll pause for a second and throw down a few random thoughts instead of a sales pitch.

Dumbfounded by what happened, I have been trying to wrap my head around that tragedy by clinging on to live debates and analysis on Radio France and other sources, almost non-stop since hearing the news on Friday. If the average French citizen was utterly stunned by the unexpected suicide attacks on their capital city, well-informed criminology experts such as Alain Bauer sounded well aware that a blow from ISIS was not a matter of if but when and where.

Although the DGSI, France’s counter-terrorism agency, has been stealthily working overtime to avoid havoc in the homeland, discreetly thwarting about 90% of the attacks according to some sources, French authorities agree that zero-risk is an illusion in a democracy. Totalitarian regimes have the recourse of chopping-off every single head sticking out in opposition, temporarily guaranteeing an illusion of order. But France has moved on from the Dark Ages a while back, and is more likely to be remembered by distant future generations for its cultural legacy, lessons in art de vivre or contributions to the world of Arts and LettersThe French, having stormed La Bastille (the King’s state prison) in 1789, are not ready for Guantanameaux-Les-Bains, and are too attached to their privacy to comply with modern surveillance. They like their freedom, bequeathed to them by ancestors who fought and died for it. They drink, eat, smoke, complain, talk, vote, drive, swear, fuck, protest, create, sin, mock and basically behave with the apparently unrestrained freedom that only a very old democracy is comfortable seeing its citizens enjoy.

In retaliation for the Charlie Hebdo events in January, and in accordance with an international coalition that includes the United States, the Armée de l’Air (French Air Force) was instructed to pay an aerial visit to known terrorists-training camps in Syria. By late September, the first French bombs were dropped. It might not have been evident to French nationals at the time, but a country that bombs another, is officially at war with it. Granted ISIS is not an actual country, but land sprawling through Iraq and Syria claimed by islamist degenerates via a religious scam, a venture mainly funded by revenues from the local multi-million-dollar oil trade. Some of that profitable business is conducted with the local official tyrant, Syria’s President Bashar Al-Assad, ISIS’s sworn enemy… Get it? Don’t worry about it, it’s far.
In the past 4 years, this insanity has scattered over 4 million Syrian refugees in neighboring countries, and beyond. The ranks of fleeing legit migrants have been said to also be infected by terrorist cells at times, delighted to be welcomed with open arms by faraway European nations with a penchant for the Droits De l’homme.

If one can only stare at that soup sandwich with perplexity, being aware of some of its ingredients might be a clue that sending troops won’t change much on the ground. As precisely-targeted as technology allows airstrikes to be, and as legitimate as the emotional urge for revenge triggered by the horror of the provocation may feel, the solution probably resides in geopolitical maneuvers rather than in talion-like military ops. Dropping another twenty bombs on Raqqa, ISIS stronghold with its inevitable city dwellers, sounds like a good plan for turning pissed-off locals into jihadist recruits.

Which brings me to the point that, given the opportunity, educating oneself is not only a must but a civic duty. A bit of reading has never hurt anyone at the voting booth. Foreign policies do have an impact at home. The famous motto Liberté, Égalité, Fraternitéoriginally followed by “ou la mort” -or death-, inherited from the French Revolution, is still today an inspiration for many around the world.
Acquiring and sharing knowledge appears to be a universally reliable way to not lose the big race against stupidity, constantly exemplified by what humans do to others humans, and the environment.

Philanthropy has never been my strength, and I must confess of my tolerance for ignorance shrinking everyday. As connected miniature personal computers rapidly become the norm in modern societies, granting us access to an endless and invaluable wealth of knowledge, professional expertise, enlighten analysis, modern exegesis and intelligent reflections, I think that one has less of an excuse for being a plank in the 21st Century than, say, during the days of medieval Crusades.

Social media platforms are great knowledge-spreading tools, free and accessible to many, albeit mostly wasted on boring trivialities and cat videos. For those frustrated with the pathetic kitchen sink quality of their newsfeed, words and images, one easy trick does wonders. Harsh but tried and true. Unfollow acquaintances! Replace the flow of numbing brain pollution by meaningful content from various reliable sources of your choice. Historical facts, scientific vulgarization, travel logs, research updates, space exploration, world news, archeological discoveries, philosophical debates, societal discussions… all have the advantage of leaving one better equipped to hopefully make intelligent decisions in life.
You might not get a visual on Bruce’s awesome cappuccino on time anymore, but a bit of awareness about the world out there should help ease the void. Bruce and you will still be friends, but acknowledging no one cares about relentless Youtube recommendations, poorly-lit food photography and other navel-gazing considerations, he might reciprocate and unfollow, thereby saving precious bandwidth and brain cells for worthy material. Everyone wins. Less idiots, less keyboard cowboys anonymously voicing uneducated opinions publicly, less music video comments to sift through to reach a spark of relevance, and, i’m stretching here, maybe less desperate acts of frustration with horrific consequences in the physical world.

On November 13, 2015, a handful of ignorant brain-washed cretins on a fool’s errand cowardly mowed down and blasted un-armed civilians enjoying an evening of live music in a Parisian concert hall, and others peacefully celebrating the good life amongst friends at a terrace… One of the 130 victims might have lived on to discover a cure for cancer, a formula for the water-fueled engine, or written the prettiest music in the world, that people listen to when they’re sad… but I guess we’ll have to wait on that. Thanks, assholes.

I’m no militant, no activist and no altruist either, pay no mind to conspiracy-theory nut jobs, don’t like being lectured, and admit being turned-off when faced with constant preaching, whatever the charity. But eradicating obscurantism is a good cause, and it starts right at home.
There are times when pulling your head out of the sand to gasp for air is urgent.

CL

With that out of the way, the Sportsman Slacks are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
Revisited MF® Vaquero denim jeans style from our !Viva La Revolución! 2013 collection.
An original pattern inspired by early European trousers and work dungarees.

FABRIC:
Same fabric used for the Faro britches, waistcoat and sack coat.
“Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan.

Pocketing and waist Lining: Same fabric used for recently-released Sportsman Appaloosa shirt, New Old Stock HBT denim, 100% cotton herringbone twill denim, subtle vertical stripe design, origin USA.

DETAILS:
* Vintage trousers-type construction.
* “Cowboy” front pocket opening
* Early type ‘donut’ metal waist button, brown corozo wood fly buttons.
* Back welt pockets.
* Side cinch straps, with NOS vintage French metal buckles.
* Selvedge leg side seam.
* Long inseam, overlocked bottom hem, for your cuffing preference (hemmed, double hemmed, rolled…)
* Turn-of-the-century style flared waistband (narrower in back)
* Slim belt loops (trousers style)
* All cotton thread tonal stitching

SIZING/FIT:
The Sportsman Slacks come unwashed/raw. We recommend an original 20-30mn cold soak and line dry.
These fit true-to-size and are tagged to reflect measurements after that initial process (about 2-5% shrinkage to be expected). If you are usually a 32 waist, get a tagged 32. The fit is comfortable yet quite flattering.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

MF® Sportsman Slacks HBT Fall 2015

MF® Sportsman Slacks HBT Fall 2015

CARE:
Subsequent cleaning should be done with the trousers flipped inside/out (to avoid marbling), gentle cycle, cold water, with minimal environmentally friendly detergent and line dry. Natural fading of this fabric is to be expected with normal repeat wash/wear cycles.
NOTE: Full washing cycle in hot water and machine dry WILL result in maximum shrinkage and noticeable color loss. NOT recommended.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes
(W stands for Waist)
W 28
W 29
W 30
W 31
W 32
W 33
W 34
W 36
W 38
Retail $309.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2015

 

The Malibu’s, sea and sand. Sportsman Spring 2015, made in USA.

 

Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015 Malibus-blues-(2)Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015

The “Malibu’s”, sea and sand denim
The Sportsman mfsc Spring 2015

Before Jeremy Slate rose to fame for sharing knuckle sandwiches with the King over girls, girls, girls sometime in 1962, he had been one of the men of unusual daring in the short-lived 1960 TV show “The Aquanauts“, a “Sea Hunt” spin off. Based on the water adventures of a group of wreck-diving buddies off Honolulu, HI, the show was renamed “Malibu Run” in 1961, as the characters relocated and opened up a diving shop in Malibu, CA . When not fending off villains underwater (Columbo in latex, anyone?), Jeremy Slate’s character often sported these cool off-white cotton trousers (I’ll have to do some screen captures when i find time).
Slim silhouette, flood length, waist tab, no belt loops, à la McQueen.
More generically, white jeans were at the time a common staple in beachside fashion. Whether you surfed or, like the Beach Boys, didn’t, ‘wheat’ jeans were the thing. If you were near sea and sand, you were not too far from white Levi’s®, pique 519’s, sateen Lee’s, or whatever cream stove pipe jeans or Broomstick slacks the 1962 Sears catalog offered…

We have already tapped in this 1960’s style of pants in our recent past with the piqué Speedways, but figured you could always use another sniff of marine air and added the Malibu’s to the Sportsman catalog. We changed a few things on the pattern, removed the buckle back and slimmed down the fit a bit. This season also introduces two color options…
For the off-white version (sand), we are using the ‘desert denim’ developed around 2012 for the Gunslinger Denim Jumper and Pantaloons, a very textured, slubby, unbleached yarn ‘eggshell white’ denim, milled in Japan.
For a touch of color, “Flipper” (1963) came to the rescue. We developed an indigo-dyed selvedge denim to match the washed-out indigo blue shade ever present in the old sea-faring metrocolor movies and TV shows. During those ‘happy days’, denim distressing was often a DIY thing. Actors in character routinely wore their own personal (naturally-aged) jeans on set. Legend has it that Brando wore his own (studio-altered) Levi’s in “The Wild One” (1953).
For an extra salty seafarer look, the studios Wardrobe Depts distressed blue jeans with the help of bleach and pumice stone. Washed out blues blended better with beach scenery.
Today the world is a much better place, since human intelligence has applied its achievements to prêt-à-porter. Indeed, one can now buy brand new garments with holes and stains straight off the mall shelves. Luckily, trend forecasting and brand promoting blogs never fail to remind clueless consumers where to get the good stuff.

Anyways, we wanted a similar effect without the bleach/distressed part, an indigo ‘Eastman Kodak’ blue, if you will. So we simply opted to start with a lighter shade of indigo for the warp yarn.
Believe it or not, this proved much trickier and challenging for the Japanese mill than producing a dark indigo denim.

So, there it is. Light blue indigo.
Back in California, all we needed to do was brainstorming over a proper name for our new denim. Several meetings later, we settled for ‘Clear skies over Diamond Head as the daffodils dance to the chant of the Ko’olau winds over the sun-drenched lagoon indigo sea wash’ denim, although Cristian was ok with ‘the blue one’.

MBDFLIP EC003 Flipper Conors family

That’s for the color.
When it comes to construction, some might wonder why the legs of our “Malibu” jeans are not displaying the fabric selvedge… We went for flat-felled side seams instead, saving that little white line for the waist band. But don’t let the street fashion brigade give up on you just yet. Should an horrified fashionistozoid© give you lip after noticing your sans selvedge cuff, take off your pants and show them what they’re missing. Flash the handsome pocket bags while you’re at it, we’re talking vintage NOS fabric Jack!
If nothing works, stripping while in line for my cappuccino has shown to be a great way to meet new people, amuse friends, and scare the children.

We realize there are a large number of naked people in this post, and apologize for the inconvenience. Here are two more.

Hi-LadiesWEB Malibus-Sand-Pam

The “Malibu’s” are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabrics milled in Japan.

SPECS:

PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slim ‘stove pipe’ early 60’s silhouette.

FABRIC:
a) Malibu’s Blues: 13 Oz. indigo-dyed denim twill, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.
b) Malibu’s Sand: 12.8 Oz. natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Tab waist band, concealed closure snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when fully cinched)
* Flat-felled seam construction.
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 1960’s vintage 100% cotton stripe twill.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
Most denim will shrink and stretch after the early rinse/dry/wear cycles. This settles overtime.

Both natural and blue denim options of the “Malibu’s” come raw/un-rinsed. They will initially shrink to approximate similar tagged size after an original cold soak and line dry. Please note that further shrinkage can be achieved by machine drying the jeans (turned inside out to avoid marbling), but our chart measurements reflect only line drying.
I am usually a tagged Waist 32 in mfsc jeans, and went with a tagged Waist 31 with the Malibu’s Sea (with no heat dryer.)
The Malibu’s fit pretty slim, our slimmest silhouette so far. The side tabs allow 1½ extra cinch in the waist, when both snapped to the tightest position.

I am personally partial to the ‘flood’ look, as opposed to modern stacking effect, and also think these look better not cuffed. Because leg creases tend to pull the fabric up with wear, it is a good idea to test wear the Malibu’s hem folded inside for a while, and adjust the length to your liking before getting them cut and hemmed. Please note that the original bottom hem of the Malibu’s is made by a single stitch machine.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Malibu Blues

Malibu’s Sea Chart

Malibus Mister Freedom Spring 2015

Malibu’s Sand Chart

CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning blue denim garments inside out to avoid marbling when washing.

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L33
W29 L33
W30 × L33
W31 × L33
W32 × L33
W33 L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L33
W38 × L33
Retail $289.95

Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com

Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support.

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 8): The “FARO BRITCHES”

Faro Britches rig Mister Freedom® ©2012

Mister Freedom® MFSC “FARO BRITCHES”
Men of the Frontier Fall 2012

Wrapping up a busy year and, along with it, our Men of the Frontier collection, here is the final Fall chapter: The FARO BRITCHES.

For these trousers, we have combined our original ‘Britches Chaparral‘ pattern with the linen/cotton HBT selvedge fabric from our ‘Faro Sack Coat” and ‘Faro Waistcoat‘.
I have yet to wear the Faro ‘three piece suit’, ‘Ditto Suit’ style, but I often mix two matching pieces with a contrasting third. For instance Faro sack coat and waistcoat worn with stripe ‘gunslinger’ type trousers or just a good pair of jeans. Or HBT Faro Britches and Waistcoat with an old leather jacket or MF® cotton Sack Coat
But enough shameless self promo, you know what works for you better than I do 😉

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted by Sugar Cane Co in Japan for MFSC. Limited edition.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s-1940’s work type trousers and cotton gentleman slacks, borrowing from both the American West and the Old World. Mid/high rise.

FABRIC:
“Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan.
Pocketing and waist Lining: HBT cotton (ochre color), an original MFSC fabric, woven in Japan (same fabric we used for the lining of the Faro Waistcoat)

DETAILS:
* Selvedge outer leg seam.
* Slash type front pockets, with inner selvedge angled stitched fold.
* Gun metal color donut button fly with double button waist.
* Two slash rear pockets, with arrowhead type button flaps.
* Watch pocket
* Trousers tailor-made type pocket bags construction and lining, with 100% cotton original HBT fabric. All biased taped edges.
* Black color 100% cotton thread high-count stitching
* Flat felled seam seat construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the Faro Britches comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.

SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
About 2-5% shrinkage on this fabric. If you are usually a 32 waist, get a tagged 32.
We recommend an original cold soak and line dry. Subsequent cleaning should be done with the trousers flipped inside/out (to avoid marbling), gentle cycle, cold water, with minimal environmentally friendly detergent and line dry.
NOTE:  Full washing cycle in warm water and machine dry WILL result in more shrinkage (around 5%) and color loss. NOT recommended.

See chart below for raw and post cold soak/line dry approx. measurements:

Faro Britches measurements Mister Freedom® ©2012

 

Available RAW/Unwashed
Tagged Sizes (= will shrink to sizes):
W28 × L33
W30 × L33
W32 × L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L34
W38 × L34
RETAIL: $549.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.