Mister Freedom® SCUBA TRUNKS, mfsc 2021-22 FROGSVILLE

 

 

MF® SCUBA Trunks, 2×1 “Army” denim

 

 

 

MF® SCUBA Trunks, “Tiger Stripes” camo twill

MF® SCUBA Trunks, P42 “Frogskin” camo HBT

 

 

MF® SCUBA Trunks, OD/Khaki HBT

 

Mister Freedom® SCUBA TRUNKS
Army Denim, Tiger Stripes, Frogskin, OD HBT
mfsc 2021-22 FROGSVILLE

This here is the one garment that inspired and fired-up our entire mfsc Frogsville concept in 2021!
We had felt for a while that the iconic US military “TRUNKS, SWIMMERS” (aka “UDT shorts”) were too good of an historical piece of gear to not be revisited by heritage fashion. So we took the dive.

As the swimwear of choice of the Naval Special Warfare combat skin diver since WW2, the unique silhouette/cut (short length, high waist, double D-ring adjustable strap) has long been associated with the badassery of the Naked Warriors, UDT Frogmen and US Navy SEALs.

The characteristic style spread to other branches and MOS (Military Occupational Specialty), and was adopted by rescue swimmer schools – AIRRs (Navy Aviation Rescue Swimmers), SAR, MCCSSS (Marine Corps Water Survival School) – at times worn as PT uniform in USMC Recon Units, as daily uniform (matched with a green skivvy aboard a ship on deployment during Desert Storm source), even as General Purpose trunks.

The style was adapted from 1940’s civilian athletic/sport trunks, see vintage satin 1930s-50s belted basketball/boxing shorts. The utilitarian pattern of the trunks evolved very little though the years. The original regulation model, part of the frogman’s sea bag, were issued in khaki carded cotton chino twill, and this is how “UDT shorts” are still commonly known today.

However, vintage specimen suggest that several distinctive models and patterns were produced for the military, some more or less obscure. Trunks cut from a wide variety of fabrics also exist, showing in-the-field creativity. Those non-reg versions were usually rigger-made or tailor-made, using recycled uniforms, surplus shelter halves/ponchos, or locally-milled fabrics.
Popular in South East Asia during the Vietnam War were camo versions, flashing all kinds of disruptive patterns, a plethora of tiger stripes, Beogam, Mitchell, ERDL, etc. In-country made embroidered trunks featuring custom “moral patches”, in the non-PC “Party Suit” tradition, are coveted items for collectors today.

For our Mister Freedom® interpretation, the SCUBA Trunks, we combined details and cuts from several military-issued swim shorts from our archives, the oldest being a 1943 US Navy contract pair (NXsX-35162) issued to a “NASH, R.D”, and the most unusual one a 1940s-50s private purchase pair labelled “Frank Bros. Military Uniform and Civilian Clothing, San Antonio, TX” featuring an interesting underwear “diaper” back pattern. We applied the usual MF® twist, blended all the vintage references into a contemporary wearable garment, and, yes, steered clear of the Frank Bros style.
With updated pattern/fit/fabrics, our swim trunks are not replicas, yet respectful of the DNA of vintage military originals.

The waist strap allows for a ½ to 1 inch cinch. Many period photos of SEALs in the 1970s show the trunks being worn with the top waist button undone, belt un-cinched, waistband rolled down. This practice may show a tendency at the time to prefer a lower rise than the old 1940s high-waisted cut, amongst other concerns.

Our friend John T, of @Mosquito_Boat IG fame, a salty USMC veteran and knowledgeable preserver of military History, confirmed the practice during his time serving as a proud US Marine in the 1990s-00s, with anecdotes I won’t relate here.

Personally, the SCUBA Trunks have rapidly become my go-to PT beachwear, as hinted by the 38,779 photos on my IG feed, cosplaying as a half-naked weekend warrior peddling wares.

The MF® SCUBA TRUNKS are a re-imagined classic designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRICS:
The MF® SCUBA Trunks are available in four distinct fabric options, all milled to vintage Mil-Specs in Japan:
a) 10 Oz. “Army” 2×1 selvedge denim, 100% cotton (same fabric as our Denim Raiders Fatigues)

b) BR (Buzz Rickson’s) Gold “Tiger Stripes” camo printed all-cotton twill, 1960s-inspired TSP pattern (same fabric as our Tiger Advisor Jacket). Inside waistband cut from contrast signal orange NOS cotton twill.

c) OD/Khaki combo HBT (Herringbone Twill), 100% cotton (same fabric as our HBT Raiders Fatigues)

d) BR (Buzz Rickson’s) P42 “frogskin” double-sided camo pattern, all-cotton HBT, reversible, constructed jungle (green) side out, also wearable with beach (beige) side out (same fabric as our Map Shirt)

SPECS:
* An original MFSC pattern, inspired by vintage military Swimmers Trunks, UDT shorts, revisited in the US military tradition of in-country local-made custom garments.
* Old school high rise and short length profile.
* Adjustable waist strap with double D-ring buckle.
* Single square rear pocket.
* Button fly, classic USN-style “fouled anchor” CPO plastic buttons.
* Chainstitch seams construction.
* Tonal stitching (with “rainbow” stitch accent on the inside for the Tiger Stripes & OD HBT model, in old USN “Liberty” fashion.)
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® SCUBA Trunks are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
Although the four fabric options have varying shrinkage specifics, all four models will fit similarly after the initial rinse/dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.

  • Cold soak for about 30 mn in tub or machine, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
  • Line dry.

The D-ring waist strap allows for a one inch ~ ½ inch cinch. I wear a W32 in all models, and can get away with a W31 in the “Army” denim version. I’m about 5’7 / 145-150 lbs.
Wear underwear.

CARE:
Low maintenance. Machine wash when needed. Cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022

Mister Freedom® smashing Continental Sportcoat & Bermudas combo! Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

This summer, pair your Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat with the Continental Bermudas to create your own smashing look at the pool party!

The inseam on the MF® Bermudas averages about 10 inches, but, on a kick with shorts lately, I went ahead and cropped all of mine. Chopped 6 inches from the inseam, 6.5 from the outseam.
The combo sportcoat/matching shorts is an acquired taste, but it works with the heat.
Also featured here with the stripe Continental Bermudas are my beat-up hickory MF® Conductor and red Tricot Marin, for a razzle dazzle touch guaranteed to confuse a bat.

The Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Bermudas are available from our made-in-USA SPORTSMAN catalog.

Sign up to our newsletter on www.misterfreedom.com for occasional updates on releases and sale events.

Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES Cut-Offs, Navy Blue HBT, mfsc SS2021 “FROGSVILLE”. Made in Japan.

 

CL chopped Swabbies Cut-Offs.

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES CUT-OFFS, 100% cotton navy blue HBT.
SS2021 mfsc “FROGSVILLE”.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® SWABBIES were initially released sometime in 2020 as full-legged bell-bottom denim trousers.

The inspiration had come from a rare pair of 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker. If these conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of work trousers. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two types of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only makes sense when studying the inside of the pants. Those original MF® SWABBIES featured authentic 1940’s-style navy bells and a traditional high waist.

The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are a cropped version of the same work pants pattern, bye-bye bells. A common practice in tropical Theater of Operations in the old days, salty Navy personnel would chop-off their faded dungarees and turn them into swim shorts or off-duty bermudas. Another common practice was to undo the top button, and wear the shorts with the waistband rolled-down, as was often the case with UDT Scuba Trunks.

UDT-5 (circa 1943)
Photo licensed from NAVY SEAL Museum.

We hemmed the inseam at about 6 inches, for a mid-thigh length. Cropping higher is a few DIY snips away for those inclined. Note that when left open (un-hemmed), the edge will fray and the fabric will roll, so, easy on the scissors!

We are releasing the Swabbies Cut-Offs in a crisp 100% cotton navy blue HBT, matching fabric to the Frogman Jacket.

The mfsc SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Sturdy and crisp 100% cotton HBT (herringbone twill), vintage mil-specs, navy blue color, sulfur-dyed. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees.
* Hemmed at mid-thigh, can be cropped to one’s preferred length.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Black tonal all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “FROGSVILLE” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I had opted for a W31 in the Denim Swabbies, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period bell-bottoms. I went with a W30 in the HBT Cut-Offs version.

The waist feels a bit tight after the cold soak, but stretches slightly with a bit of wear, although not as much as the denim model. Note that these are high-waisted shorts, and one might consider the old practice of undoing the top button and wearing the shorts with the waistband rolled-down to tone down the high rise.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the shorts inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

DISCLAIMER: This sulfur-dyed HBT fabric has an intentional low colorfastness and will ‘age’ and look ‘worn-in’ rapidly with normal wear/machine wash routine.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen “Congo Gab” & NOS Crosshatch Moss Denim, SS2019 Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen “Congo Gab” & cotton-linen Crosshatch Moss Denim.
mfsc SS2019 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We introduced our Mister Freedom® “Continental” series in early 2016, an unpretentious all-made-in-USA casual suiting concept consisting of three new patterns – Continental TrousersContinental VestContinental Sportcoat – seasonally released in a combination of vintage New Old Stock fabrics.

The Mister Freedom® “Continental” family, Sportcoat, Vest & Trousers. Made in USA.

We added a new member to the family during Spring 2018, the Continental Bermudas.

The MF® Bermudas’ pattern is derived from the original Continental Trousers, our interpretation of classic late 50’s-mid 60’s casual slacks. These tailored short trousers are a departure from, no offense, dad’s favorite 1990’s cargo shorts, the recreational fisherman’s best friend. We aimed for a more elegant silhouette on this project, more summer in the Bahamas than Sunday at Home Depot.

Anchored in a British military style tradition allegedly dating back to WW1, original ‘bermuda shorts’ called for a length of approximately one inch above the knee, which we stuck with. Whether you go for the mandatory knee-length socks, blazer and tie dear to the respectable Bermudian keen on proper insular business attire, is up to you. For a casual stroll around town in old-school Ivy League style, we think you’ll do just fine with a simple Stanley or Berkeley shirt, topped with an unstructured Continental Sportcoat, and shod in a pair of vintage penny loafers or wingtips… Better yet, do your own thing, and forget “influencers”!

The above-the-knee target length will obviously depend on where one considers the waist line to be. Our Continental Bermudas feature a mid-to-high rise, and, call us old-fashioned, we tend to think of the waist as a natural line falling right above the hips. The simple single needle hem can easily be tailored to one’s length of choice. A shorter length might convey more of a sporty and contemporary vibe, although you might want to consult with your partner before going full Daisy Dukes.

For this SS2019 release, we opted for two distinct New Old Stock fabrics from our vault, previously featured in the Sportsman catalog as iterations of the Ranger Shirt, and Continental Sportcoat, Vest, and Trousers.
The first fabric is a crosshatch (slubby warp and weft) denim twill, a fancy 70% cotton/30% linen blend, milled in Italy. This elegant yet rugged indigo moss blue cloth will fade to an attractive range of blue hues overtime, with the typical uneven crisscross “ring” lines of crosshatch denim.

The second option, an off-white “Congo Gab” fabric, is an 8.85 Oz. blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, an elegant ivory white twill with a subtly-contrasting darker heather oatmeal weft. The face of this denim-like fabric features unbleached yarns, while the reverse displays slubby flecks of natural fibers. For those intending to pair these white bermudas with the SS2018 Continental “Congo Gabardine” Sportcoat, please note that the jacket features the oatmeal side as the face, and both piece will not match as a two-piece suit.
Our choice of “Congo Gabardine” terminology, although technically inaccurate, is a nod to vintage “Congo Cloth”. Refer to the original post and its illustrations for a bit of rambling on the subject.

For pocketing, we have outfitted both options with an elegant European woven stripe lining fabric, previously featured on the black Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit.

The Continental Bermudas are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage late 1950’s and early 1960’s casual slacks with a classic, slim silhouette. Mid-to-high rise.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) New Old Stock 11 Oz. Crosshatch Denim Twill, indigo moss blue (blue with a greenish sheen), slubby 70% cotton 30% linen blend, milled in Italy.
b) New Old Stock ivory white twill, 8.85 Oz., blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen,  slubby oatmeal flecks and white warp, with off-white heather weft, milled origin unknown.
Pocketing:  NOS fancy woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.

DETAILS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, above the knee length.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* Amber brown corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Rear welt pockets, watch pocket.
* Coin pocket.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Crotch gusset pattern.
* Flat-felled side seam “caballo” construction.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy European woven stripe twill pocket bags and waist band.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstitch MF® signature accents.
* Original “SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Made in USA.

SIZING:
The MF® Continental Bermudas come raw/unwashed.
Both fabric options will shrink to approximately the same size after a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
These are “vanity size”, with somewhat of a generous waist that can be cinched with the rear adjustable strap. I tend to fluctuate between W30 and W32 in mfsc trousers, according to the model, and opted for a comfortable W32 in the Continental Bermudas, in both fabrics.

Refer to sizing chart for cold soak/spin dry/line dry measurements.

CARE:
Launder when necessary.
Machine wash on delicate, garment inside-out, cold water with minimal environmentally-friendly detergent and line dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
NOTE: Full washing cycle in hot water and machine dry might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss. Not recommended.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes
28
30
32
34
36
38

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts, made in USA.

US Coast Guards in a conversation with German POWs, Normandy France, 1944 (photo © U.S. National Archives)

Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts.
Made in USA.

In an effort to make new with the old, a rather sustainable approach to consumerism, here is a Spring 2018 twist on our previously-released “Shipyard Chinos”.
Originally issued as part of our “American Sportswear NOS” Fall 2011 capsule collection, the harbinger of our “The Sportsman“on-going catalog, these utility pants have been customized into summer-weight bermudas with a handy side pocket.
The original pattern was inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees and features a wrap-leg construction, patch pockets and adjustable cinch-back. Along with the recently-made available Boonie Utes, these modified Shipyard Chinos shorts are now beefing-up our funky fresh, colorful, eclectic and sexy MF® Shorts section. Everything for the stylish gentleman with an urge to pay tribute to Tom Selleck.

The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and made in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRICS: 100% cotton tightly woven chino twill, milled in Japan. Dry hand, light ounce.
Three colors available, khaki, brown, navy. 

SPECS:
* An original Mister Freedom® pattern inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees.
* Modified into above-the-knee bermudas.
* Added side pocket.
* Front patch pockets secured in the waist band, copper rivet reinforced.
* Wrap leg construction (no side seam).
* Buckle-back adjustable strap with vintage French NOS metal buckle.
* Crotch rivet.
* Rear cotton cloth patch for custom stenciling, concealed behind back strap.
* Metal donut crest buttons for waist and fly, painted black.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed MF® mfsc label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts come raw/unwashed, unless specified.
They will shrink to tagged size after a cold rinse and line dry. Comfortable fit. I opted for a Size 30. Could go to 32 for a more roomy silhouette and cinch the waist. The silhouette is according to personal preferences, but i don’t recommend wearing those chinos tight. If you are a true waist 31, you should fit in a waist 30 in the shipyard chinos.
This modified shorts version of the Shipyard Chinos is cut above the knee. Results may vary according to your ratio waist/height and silhouette.

Refer to chart for measurements.
CHART

Available Raw/unwashed (unless otherwise specified on the MF® webstore)
Sizes Limited availability
28
30
32
34
36
38
Retail $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018