HELO Jacket, Navy blue/Signal yellow, “Sea Hunt” Fall 2014

Helo Jacket Promo Mister Freedom 2014

Helo Jacket Promo Mister Freedom 2014

Helo Jacket Promo Mister Freedom 2014

Helo Jacket Promo Mister Freedom 2014

Helo Jacket Promo Mister Freedom 2014

Helo Mister Freedom 2014

Another terrifying adrenaline-charged stunt, captured by Mr. Tadashi Tawarayama of Seven Bros. Pictures, 2014. Beathtaking, no?

 

 

 

HELO JACKET, Signal Yellow/Navy Blue
“Sea Hunt” mfsc collection, Fall 2014

The final heavy hitter of our “Sea Hunt” two season-long saga comes in the form of an airborne pilot-type jacket: the “Helo”.
We first made a signal yellow Helo. And against Tina Turner’s advice, realized we needed another Helo. So there’s a navy blue version as well.
Are you still there?

I know nothing about flying machines, but I’ve always found helicopters fascinating. All kinds of shapes and colors, unlikely floating crystal bubbles in metallic frames, hovering and defying gravity and winds…

“When the command is GO… SCRAMBLE!” said the old GI Joe™ Action Pilot™ leaflet I dug out of surviving bits and pieces of childhood stored in a metal trunk back in the Old Country.
I was not much into video games or fire trucks as a kid, but kinda dug helicopters for some reason. Maybe because TV programs were full of them. Félix, the bright yellow Hughes 300 lifting off from the helideck of the Calypso with Cousteau on board meant Adventure. TC’s chopper in all its ‘Verner Panton’ paint job glory meant bizness…
Fancy recreational toys, island tour vehicles, for rescue missions or airborne stunts, Air Cav mean machines or rotorhead dreams… no matter the assignment, these flying crafts always seemed to be manned by skilled daredevils, handling real joysticks that surely beat Atari’s. I was sold.

Some of the above vintage photos/infos courtesy of members of the Professional Pilots Rumour Network, rotorhead section. All credits to the original owners.

So, when it came to designing a pilot-type jacket for one of our ‘Sea Hunt’ character, a rescue helicopter pilot, I was GO.
In many of the 1960’s-1980’s photos I’ve researched, helicopter pilots are wearing flight coveralls, CWU (Cold Weather Unit) jackets or jet pilot type jackets. It seemed that a jacket specifically made for helicopter pilots never existed in the US Air Force (I could be wrong). So I decided to blend nylon flight suits with MA-1, N-3B and CWU-type gear to come up with one.
The expert at Buzz Rickson’s kindly opened their doors, and allowed us to utilize their resources and mil-specs trims.
Back in California, we played with several ideas, different body types, length balance, styles, periods, tweaked pocketing and construction for a while…
For those into design anecdotes, the early sketch had a narrow and straight throat latch and a zipper chest pocket. After seeing an actual early prototype sent from Toyo Enterprises, I realized it made the jacket look too ‘racing’. I opted for a latch in the shape of an L-2B flight jacket waist tab and an alternate chest pocket design instead…

Well, let there be flight and there was flight, from sketches to prototypes, we eventually landed a ‘plausible’ hybrid. A jacket that looked to me like it had been around tarmacs cockpits for decades. The Mister Freedom® mfsc “Helo Jacket” was born.

Helo sketch Mister Freedom Feb2014 Helo sketch Mister Freedom Feb2014 Helo early proto Mister Freedom 2014

Our “Helo Jacket” shares its insulating qualities with original Air Force MA-1 type flight jackets (I mean the real vintage USAF deal, not the cheapo ‘Made in Pakistan’ civvy versions). While the thick wool pile lining will guarantee warmth, the wool knit collar and wrist bands will help prevent the cold air from penetrating.
The ‘Space Age’ V-shape of the cuffs was borrowed from a 1960’s WEP fixed-wing USN pilot jacket (detachable top part of a winter flying suit MIL-S-18342 C. Many thanks to reader Matt Henderson for the knowledge. More valuable insights on WEPs here).
This specific detail proved to be a real challenge during manufacturing. I believe the original purpose of these V-shaped cuffs was to allow extra stretching for a wrist instrument. In 2014, their main achievement was to provide real headaches to the skilled machine operators mounting our Helo Jacket… Sorry ’bout that.

Instead of the familiar orange lining of vintage MA-1 or L-2B reversible flight jackets, we opted for a non-emergency yet contrasting weather cloth lining. This is the same fabric we had milled for our Spring 2014 “Skipper Jackets“. This 100% cotton fabric not only feels nice against the skin, it also provides an interesting contrast in texture/hand/feel next to the mil-specs 100% nylon twill shell.
The Helo is a heavy winter jacket of about 3 Lbs.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Shell
: Mil-specs heavy 2/2 nylon twill, milled in Japan.
Lining: 100% cotton 6 Oz. “Weather Cloth” tightly woven windbreaker popeline, milled in Japan.
Inner: Insulating wool pile.
Two model options:
a) Signal yellow shell/Navy blue linning & knit trims.
b) Navy blue shell/Olive “Jungle” green lining and knit trims.

DETAILS:
* Original design inspired by vintage US Air Force flight gear.
* Vintage mil-specs replica parts & trims.
* Heavy duty 1950’s-type “Crown” zipper front closure.
* Inner windflap.
* 100% wool knit collar and cuffs.
* Two inside chest pockets.
* Snap throat tab.
* Expanding knit wrist “V” gussets.
* Arm “cigarette” zipper pocket (fits a case-less iPhone5)
* Bottom cinch string, leather sliders and eyelets.
* Made in Japan.

CARE/SIZING:
When needed, professional dry-cleaning ONLY.
Do NOT wash.
Our Helo Jacket is true to size, with somewhat of a slim fit. If you are usual a 38 in msfc jacket, you are a 38 in the Helo.

Please refer to approximate measurements in the chart below. Please note that due to the thickness of the shell/inner/lining, measurements are somewhat subject to interpretation.

Helo Jacket Mister Freedom 2014

Available Un-Issued.

SIZES:
36
 (Small)
38
 (Medium)
40
 (Large)
42
 (X-Large)
44
 (XX-Large)
 Retail $849.95

Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

N-1z type Deck Pants, indigo-dyed jungle cloth, Fall 2014 “Sea Hunt” Collection

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Is that enough props for ya?

 

Deck Pants, Type N-1Z, Indigo-dyed jungle cloth
“Sea Hunt” mfsc collection Fall 2014

Some of us like indigo. Some of us like jungle cloth. Those who like neither are in for a treat with this special number. Double punishment.
We have revisited and ‘simplified’ an old trousers pattern we introduced in 2008, the mfsc N-1K deck pants (“N-1” was for the 1940’s USN deck jacket reference, “K” was for the USAF type K-1 flight suit that inspired the pattern of the front patch pockets). There’s nothing wrong with knocking yourself out once in a while, before Dong does it.

N-1K-sketch Mister Freedom 2008

Everyone is by now familiar with “Jungle Cloth”, a Bedford cord type fabric. This tightly woven cotton, distantly related to the corduroy family, has somewhat of a water repellent quality, and was used quite extensively by the US Navy in the 1920’s-1940’s period, as the fabric of choice for some of the foul weather gear.
Our durable 14 oz. jungle cloth is pretty much mil-specs, with a MF® spin on the color. We had the fabric indigo-dyed for the occasion, a dark shade of indigo blue. The color is light-sensitive, and meant to fade naturally with regular wash/wear cycles. The front patch pockets are using the warp of the fabric horizontally, subtlety contrasting with the vertical grain of the legs. Overtime, the natural patina will highlight the interesting juxtaposition of one fabric going in two directions. We’ll be posting evo photos on the Hall of Fade sometime next year…
The rear pocket pattern has the same origin than our “Sea Hunt” Spring 2014 Crew Pants.
The overall pattern of these pants is a mix between utilitarian and military. The N-1Z features a 40’s-type black oxidized cotton tape CONMAR zipper, a new contender soon to spice up the groin-zoom photo contest of our sizzling Instagram account, when it’s eventually brought up to speed.

The N-1Z deck pants are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Fabric milled and indigo-dyed  in Japan

Disclaimer: Please note that the photos are displaying my own (soaked and  slightly worn 4-5 times) pair of N-1Z. Production comes unwashed/unworn, of course.

SPECS

FABRIC:
* Durable 14 Oz. all cotton “Jungle Cloth”, indigo-dyed in a rich dark indigo blue shade. Milled and indigo-dyed in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage utility and military trousers, and Air Force flight suits.
* Patch pockets, front and rear.
* Zipper fly, vintage-type CONMAR, black oxidized color, cotton tape.
* Oxidized metal donut waist button.
* Waistband facing lined with Buzz Rickson’s USN-type chambray.
* Full flat-felled seam construction.
* 100% cotton stitching, black color.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/WASHING:
Our deck pants come raw/unwashed.
We recommend an original cold soak, spin dry cycle, line dry. These are intentionally not cut like skinny pants, and boiling them won’t change that. The N-1Z have a comfortable waist/leg fit. They will shrink to tagged size after the recommended original soak.
Color croaking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments such as white tucked-in undershirts. Indigo rub-off washes off eventually, this is the nature of the indigo beast.
When cleaning is needed, turn inside out and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Do not use a heat dryer. The jungle cloth is very durable and will resist washing machine cycles without a problem, but the indigo will react to excessive and unnecessary agitation by leaving unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out. The first years of care are important to guarantee a nice indigo wear patina.

Please refer to chart for cold soak/line dry measurements. Keep in mind that our cold soak method results in minimal shrinkage.

Mister Freedom Deck Pants N-1Z sizing chart

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist Sizes: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $449.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Topsiders, “Marine Nationale” denim twill, mfsc ‘Sea Hunt’ Spring 2014

 

CL-MN-TAAF-1986 Mister Freedom

Rehearsing a Titanic scene, 1986

Indian Ocean, 1986.

 

 

 

 

Mister Freedom® Topsiders, “MN” (Marine Nationale) Denim.
Sea Hunt‘ mfsc Fall 2014.
Made in Japan.

Fall 2014 welcomes another option for our Topsiders. This will be a “Beverly Special” edition, as we requested to have a batch manufactured only for us.
Everything has been pretty much said about this pattern when we introduced the Topsiders during Spring 2014, in their original Okinawa denim edition.

Not to quote the old lunatic, but the original Topsiders pattern is “heavily inspired by an original pair of USN wrap-leg dungarees” from the 1940’s. We adapted the cut and fit, and “ they now have a mid-rise, similar to the rise of our Californian blue jeans“, if not slightly higher.
You know what’s coming next, but we promise this is the LAST time we mention the Marine Nationale, this week.
It has to do with the MN denim twill fabric we introduced as one of 2,478 options of the Map Shirt this Fall.

Here are some more wise words from our senile CEO, as originally posted here:
“Sometime in the 1960’s, denim twill dungarees replaced the set of linen work clothes originally issued to French seaman recruits. These linen work tops and bottoms came in both white and bleu chiné. Our Spring 2014 Crew Pants, the “MN” model in cotton/linen, was a reference to that heather blue 1950’s version the cols bleus (the “blue collars”, aka the men with the red pompom) had in their sea bag.
The cotton denim the French opted for as the replacement fabric for the work uniform in the 1960’s was in no way comparable to its dark indigo blue US Navy dungaree counterpart. It was much lighter in color. The warp had a definite purplish tone. The weft gave an almost solid white aspect to the reverse side of the denim.

The textile experts at Sugar Cane Co did an amazing job at instructing their factory in milling this “MN denim twill” from the authentic vintage swatches we had supplied. To be honest, the first fabric sample roll lacked the purplish hue and was too grey, but this production batch is spot on!
We chose to have it milled on shuttle looms, a costly process, opting for a solid white selvedge ID.
The result is an exclusive mfsc 9.4 oz. denim twill I am quite found of and proud to introduce for our “
Sea Hunt” Fall 2014 chapter…”

We’ve had requests, but we’re sharing more glossies out of the old geezer’s albums anyways.
These photos were shot somewhere in the TAAF off Madagascar, around 1986, featuring the period regulation Marine Nationale-issued cotton work pants. If I remember well, these were not extremely desirable in cut and fit, had a zipper fly and pocketing pattern reminiscent of our Spring 2014 Crew Pants. The navy blue deck jacket was the regulation model that had by then replaced its older jungle cloth cousin, a family of foul weather gear that inspired the recent Mister Freedom® Blouson de Quart.
A bit less regulation were the Vans®, the funky do, and the USS Kitty Hawk cover bartered with a Tuléar local for my extra pair of black regulation dress shoes.
All these bits of souvenirs make the fabric of our Topsiders quite special to me today.

The mfsc Topsiders “MN” denim twill are made in Japan as a collaboration between Mister Freedom® and Sugarcane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
9.4 oz. denim twill, 100% cotton, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees.
* Roomy straight leg.
* Wrap-leg construction, no side seams.
* Button fly, white corozo (vegetable ivory nut) top and fly buttons.
* Selvedge waistband.
* Selvedge concealed ‘crotch gusset’.
* Two functioning rounded bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded bottom rear back pockets.
* Adjustable back cinch strap.
* Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts
* Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Customizable mfsc white woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/WASHING:
The Topsiders come RAW (unwashed) and will pretty much shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold soak of about 20mn, machine spin dry or drip dry, line dry.
Do not use heat dryers.
I wear my usual 32 waist in these, using the back cinch to adjust the top block. It’s a comfortable fit, do not expect slim fitting jeans.
Further washing should be limited to when required by common sense, as in when your jeans are dirty.
It is a good idea to wash denim inside-out to avoid marbling.

Please refer to sizing chart for raw and rinsed measurements. Please note that our rinsed measurements (cold soak/line dry) show minimal shrinkage. Using hot water/heat dryer (both NOT recommended) will result in more shrinkage.

Topsiders MN Denim Mister Freedom 2014

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L36
W30 × L36
W32 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36
Retail $399.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂

‘Blouson de Quart’, khaki Jungle Cloth edition, “Sea Hunt” mfsc Collection Fall 2014

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Not now Kato!

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Waxed Mister Freedom Blouson de Quart, Jan 2016

Worn & waxed Mister Freedom® Blouson de Quart (Update Jan 2016)

Blouson de Quart“, Khaki Jungle Cloth edition
‘Sea Hunt’ mfsc Collection, Fall 2014

You are by now aware of our inclination for dressing up an occasional MF® piece in obscure foreign words. The reason for this is dual. It makes our conversations around the copy machine colorful, and give us a chance to appear educated.
So here we go again with this “Blouson de Quart“.

a what?

this what?

Some of the MF® old timers might remember the mfsc N-1H jacket (“H” was for hook), released sometime in 2008. It combined the design/color of several early USN deck jackets into a never-existed-but-could-have hybrid curiosity. Some today believe it did exist…
Because the garment industry has now flooded the Seas with reiterations of naval deck jackets, timing seemed perfect for not adding another drop to that ocean. And when timing is wrong, you can expect Mister Freedom® to barge in.

First Edition mfsc Deck Jacket, 2008

First Edition mfsc Deck Jacket, 2008

To everyone’s delight, we have tapped quite a bit into the “Marine Nationale” (the French Navy) for inspiration on our “Sea Hunt” adventures. Since the introduction of the Spring chapter in March 2014, fabrics and anecdotes have been freely adapted and borrowed from the world of the cols bleus. Encouragement, mostly in the form of emails to sales@misterfreedom.com starting with “If i never hear about his stint again, it’ll be too soon”, have kept us going.
So it won’t come as a surprise that the term “Blouson de Quart” refers to the winter jacket seafaring French sailors wore while on watch, as they assumed their ¼-workday duty.
Sometime in the 1960’s, the French Navy issued a  jacket very much lifted from the US Navy type N-1 deck jacket, the probable result of joined operations when a specific piece of uniform seen in action would appeal to the men of one fleet, creating a demand the Commissariat de la marine eventually addressed.
Scholars will correct me.
Also known as “Veste de pont“, both deck jackets shared a similar ‘jungle cloth’ type fabric, the French boasting its hydrofuge quality on the label (a dubious water and oil repellent claim). Although the shell was olive green in color, the Marine Nationale‘s version adopted the chocolate brown ‘dog-hair’ lining of the later alpaca-lined American N-1.

Vintage Marine Nationale veste de pont 60's 70's Vintage Marine Nationale veste de pont 60's 70's Commandant Charcot 1949 Courtesy Georges Gadioux USS Pumper Courtesy Serge Tilly Vendeen Courtesy Claude Hennard 1977

Photos of an additional French vintage veste de pont can be seen on this blog., featuring a hooded version flanked by the traditional “MN” anchor chest stencil.

Above vintage photos credits:
* Commandant Charcot 1949 photo Courtesy of  Georges Gadioux.
* On watch on the ‘USS Pumper’ Courtesy of Serge Tilly
* Foul weather on ‘Escorteur Rapide Vendeen’ Courtesy of Claude Hennard (1977)

UPDATES:
Artist and friend Patrick Segui hooked us up with some amazing photos of these jackets in action. Thanks Captain.
(All credits to the men who served, original owners of these photos, who hopefully won’t mind the respectful exposure.)

If our naval-inspired and aptly-named jacket shares its overall pattern with our “Naval Clothing Tailor” days N-1H, this Fall 2014 “Blouson de Quart” is its own beast, not a mere reissue of an out-of-stock jacket.
Back in 2008, navy blue jungle cloth fabric was quite a rare bird in the vintage world, which made it a perfect candidate for a mfsc jacket shell at the time. The vintage khaki version of that fabric had always been a more common flea market find, a bit ‘less special’ for us rag hounds.
But the coolness of original 1940’s USN-issued khaki deck jackets is undeniable. We’ve all seen those famous Newman or Dean shots. Old photos of 1950’s/60’s dock-working gangs are rarely not featuring one or two in the crowd.
I’ve had an old beat-up N-1 in my closet for years, and figured that a khaki jungle cloth coat was looong overdue in the MF® line-up of cold weather offerings.
So.
There it is.
Ze blouson de quart.

As mentioned, this is not a replica, and you’ll notice we spared you the indelible anchor chest stencil, or any kind of outer military markings for that matter. As much as I appreciate finding authentic vintage pieces with original custom unit stencils and original Armed Forces markings, I’ve always been a bit skeptical regarding USN/USMC/USAAF/… or any type of official military ‘tagging’ on civvy clothing, legit replica or fashion fling. But that’s just me.

Another touch of mfsc nostalgia applying to this jacket is the addition of “Liberty Cuffs” everyone is familiar with today. There was a ‘Liberty-issue’ denim Peacoat we made a while back, and we’re using that same good ol’ story for our “Blouson de Quart“.
“Liberty cuffs” were often a feature on custom-made crackerjacks American sailors ordered from local tailors, mostly while on tour in exotic Far-East locations. Concealed during duty, the cuffs were rolled while on liberty, ie. time off-base or off-ship. They showed how salty one was. Embroidered dragons, octopus, mermaids, eagles and other patriotic or humorous patches, matched with all kinds of colorful custom stitching of the garment’s lining, made for a good opening line while trying to convince bar ladies to join for a tour of the local museums…
Our “Sea Hunt” team member went with a classy sea D-cup creature. Please note that our mermaid patches are only sewn on three sides, in case you want to stick an emergency sawbuck or c-note in there.
For those interested in learning more about this specific naval tradition, the 2010 soft-cover book  “U.S. Navy Tailor-Made Dress Blues, Liberty Cuffs and Sailor Folk-Art” by SCPO Daniel D. Smith sheds light on what is fully spelled out in its title.

Back on shore.
Speaking of exotic destinations, our ‘Blouson de Quart’ will not exactly be the attire of choice for the atoll of Tetiaroa. This thing is W.A.R.M., and means business, Jack! The thick wool alpaca lining will do better under temperate climates than coconut trees.
As soft as this wool pile lining is, it is still wool and i’m allergic.  So we’ve opted to line the collar with 100% cotton corduroy, instead of the traditional N-1 dog skin that would keep me from wearing the jacket with a simple skivvy underneath.
If you’re into manufacturing anecdotes, this is one’s for you. If not, scroll down to the bad news, 9 c-notes.
If you’re still here, let’s mention that for our made-for-US batch, we opted to incorporate vintage 1930’s French NOS selvedge corduroy fabric (technically “Velour D’Amiens“, a now defunct very high quality wide wade corduroy used for work-wear and hunting coats). We had found some dusty yardage a while back, just enough to make a very limited batch of jackets with it. This didn’t make production easier for the factory, as the made-for-Japan jackets featured a different type of lighter corduroy, both in weight and color. But we got what we wanted, thanks to our hard-working friends at Toyo Enterprises.

Mister Freedom 2014

Vintage NOS French corduroy, collar of the ‘Blouson de Quart’

For the front closure, we combined the black-painted metal clip-hooks of the second type USN deck jackets with the solid TALON zipper of M-51 type field jackets. This heavy-duty black oxidized mil-specs zipper matches that three pounder of a coat (3.2 Lbs for a Medium!)
Both jacket and zipper should last a few cross-Atlantic cruises.

The mfsc “Blouson de Quart” is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS

FABRIC:
* Shell: Sturdy 14 Oz. all cotton “Jungle Cloth”, khaki color.
Please note that this fabric is a slightly heavier than the jungle cloth we originally used for both issues of our N-1H Deck Jacket.
* Lining: A warm soft-touch wool pile full lining, chocolate brown.
* Collar: 100% cotton corduroy.

DETAILS
* Freely inspired by vintage USN and Marine Nationale deck jackets, worn by 1940’s-1960’s sailors in foul weather conditions.
* Double front closure featuring 1940’s-type clip hooks and 1950’s-type mil-specs TALON zipper.
* Chin strap collar, 100% cotton corduroy lining, no-pain-in-the-neck guaranteed.
* Concealed chill-protectant wool knit cuffs.
* Liberty cuffed with mfsc mermaid patches.
* Synch-waist adjustment.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, corduroy lined.
* Olive color rot-proof poly-thread stitching.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/CARE:
This is highly unusual for us but we had these coats factory rinsed. NOT distressed, mind you, just professionally rinsed and gently tumble-dried. That way, the headache of the shrinkage guessing game doesn’t apply. Our Blouson de Quart is true to size. I wear a 38 in this coat, with room for a denim jacket or wool sweater underneath. Really skinny body types considering sizing down might have an issue with a tight arm opening. As with most non-bespoke garments, this jacket will not work on all body types, all body proportions and everyone’s personal aesthetics.

If you think it works for you however, do NOT wash this jacket in a home washing machine. You’ll first ruin said washing machine, risk getting the metal hooks snagged, get marbling marks on the fabric… at which point you’ll realize this is enough fun for a day, and you still need photos for eBay.

Your activities and frequency of wear will dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner.

We have measured the jacket to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric. The lining is about ¼ inch thick, which reduces the inside room by that much.

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom 2014

Available delicately rinsed.
Sizes
36
Small
38
Medium
40
Large
42
X-Large
44
XX-Large
Retail $899.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Mechanics Utility Trousers, indigo ‘Cavalry Twill’, Fall 2014 “Sea Hunt” Collection

Mechanics Trousers Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Raw/unwashed

Mechanics Trousers Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Cold soak/line dry/worn to shape while still damp.

 

 

Mechanics Trousers Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Mechanics Trousers Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

 

Mechanics Utility Trousers ‘Cavalry Twill’
“Sea Hunt” mfsc collection, Fall 2014

 For those of you who wonder if we have come up with any bottoms for the Fall chapter of our “Sea Hunt” collection, one of the answer is right here.

We called in the USAF to the rescue on this one, and freely borrowed from a New Old Stock pair of 1957 -brace yourselves it’s a mouthful- “TROUSERS, UTILITY, COTTON, SAGE GREEN, CLASS 2, HEMMED BOTTOMS, SHADE 509”. Issued to Air Force mechanics in the mid 1950’s those original sage green sateen “grease monkey” britches featured front pleats and side tool pockets, but are mostly immediately recognizable by their long cinch-waist adjusting tabs.

Vintage USAF trousers 1957 SAC Air Sea Rescue 1950s Courtesy of LIFE B-58 Ground Crew 1962

We have adapted the pattern and features of the vintage military work pants for our ‘Mechanic Utility Trousers’. If we kept the cool side tabs, off went the front pleats and side tool pockets. Instead we re-positioned a single extra pocket along the inseam of the left leg. It is ‘sandwiched’ in the flat felled seam and is located at mid-calf, not lower as our previous flight suit-inspired ankle pockets originally introduced in 2008 with the N1-K Deck Pants.
The back of the calf might seem like an unlikely location for a pocket, but it will be quite convenient for the many of us who fly jets daily.
Think about it next time you sit in the cockpit of your X-13 VertiJet.  And let us know how easy we have made it for you to access your iPod playlists after take-off. We’re thoughtful like that.

X-13A Vertijet 54

Back to our Mechanics Trousers…

The side snap tabs will allow for quick cinched waist release, a special Thanks Giving feature.

The fabric we opted for is our original indigo ‘Cavalry twill’, previously introduced with our numéro deux Map Shirt.
This denim-like double twill is 9.7 oz. and features a solid white selvedge. In its unwashed state, this fabric appears to be dark blue-grey, but the warp yarn is actually indigo-dyed. After an initial cold soak, natural wear will bring out the indigo blue color over time.

The rear pockets appear to be lelt-hand twill denim, but are in fact only displaying the fabric horizontally, not vertically as the rest of the trousers. The fabric selvedge is folded inside the pocket, and is showing on the hem.
After the initial cold soak and line dry, the back pockets will shrink and torque slightly differently than the body. This is visible from the resulting subtle wrinkles. This is not a default but the specific character of our Mechanics Trousers rear pockets.

The ‘Cavalry Twill’ Mechanics Utility Trousers are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.

(Vintage USAF photos courtesy of jetpilotoverseas and aviationexplorer)

SPECS:

FABRIC:
100% cotton indigo ‘Cavalry twill’, 9.7 oz., solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Pattern freely inspired by 1950’s USAF mechanics utility trousers.
* Patch front pockets.
* Single inner calf pocket.
* Button fly.
* Corrozo wood buttons, golden brown.
* Waist snap adjusting tabs.
* Rear patch pockets, single flap.
* Concealed selvedge on rear pocket folded hem.
* Cotton USN-type chambray button-fly facing and snap backing.
* Flat-felled seam construction.
* 100% cotton thread, tonal.
* Made in Japan.

WASHING/SIZING:
The mechanic trousers come raw/unwashed and will ‘technically’ shrink to tagged size. I opted for an original cold soak/line dry, which resulted in minimal shrinkage. I personally never use hot water/heat dryer for denim garments, which guaranties full shrinkage but also loss of color and excessive softening, in my opinion.
If you are opting for the cold soak/line dry, I recommend sizing down on these. I am usually a 32 in msfc bottoms, but went for a size 30, as I had done with the Spring 2014 Crew Pants.
I might hem them later, but decided to wear them with a fat cuff for a while.
The leg is still quite generous with a 30, and these are definitely not slim fitting, limiting the target audience to about 12 people Worlwide.

Again, maximum shrinkage to be expected with the use of hot water and heat dryer, although this is NOT recommended, as unnecessary loss of indigo dye and unattractive color marbling might occur.
This indigo cavalry twill fabric should be treated like premium indigo denim, as it will bleed, shrink/stretch, and fade with normal wear and subsequent washing.
When needed, hand wash in cold water with mild detergent and line dry.

Pleased see size chart for measurements. Please note that, for your reference, we have shrink-tested two waist 32. One cold-soak/line-dry for minimal shrinkage, and one cold-soak/heat-dry for further shrinkage.

Mechanics Utility Trousers Mister Freedom

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist Sizes: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $399.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
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