Mister Freedom® “TRAILBLAZER”, Brushed Cotton Sateen, mfsc FW2019 Surplus catalog. Made in Japan.

 

Mister Freedom® TRAILBLAZER, Brushed Cotton Sateen.
mfsc FW2019 Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

Do you know what a camel is?
Someone once said that a camel is a horse designed by a Board of Experts…

Well, our TRAILBLAZER is one of those hybrid species from Weirdsville, courtesy of the MF® Design Department. Working on FW2019 last year, the initial intention of our in-house Board of Experts – joined that day by Mr. Tom Tanaka, friend, skilled surfer and head of the International Dept. of Toyo Enterprise – was to release a winter version of the SECOYA Shirt, merely updating the light ounce chambray to a heftier fabric option. So much for that easy-breezy plan…
Ideas started flowing, such as making the shirt full button-up front (not pull-over), and using metal grommets instead of stitched eyelets for ventilation.
I had quickly dismissed a suggestion by Tina from Bazar a few weeks prior to that FW2019 meeting, pointing out to the practicality of “a shirt with added slash pockets”, just because her pitch had started with “you know what you should do?” That idea popped back up on the drafting table during the design meeting. A few cups of brain juice later and we had a few rough sketches for the “kangaroo” pockets and front button placket, which materialized later into the mfsc TRAILBLAZER courtesy of Sensei Fukutomi San, pattern maestro of Toyo Enterprise.

We had been contemplating for a while using Brushed Cotton Sateen for an mfsc project, a popular textile for casual sportswear in the 1960’s-70’s, and a big hit in Europe at the time. The leisure suit collector and vintage fashion gourmet will relate to funky-fresh Lee® trucker jackets with matching bottoms, and to the plethora of off-brand flare jeans and shirt-jaks cut from that glorious textile, in a wild palette of pastel or bold colors. This fabric would be a perfect fit for our trailblazing cameloid.

The FW2019 TRAILBLAZER fabric is a weft-faced brushed sateen, a tightly woven twill with a characteristic soft brushed satin weave face and a plain weave reverse. We opted for two complimenting colors, Prussian blue and rust, lifted from two vintage garments from the MF® vintage archives.

If the rest of the specifics of the Secoya Shirt are still there – double-shoulder yoke, selvedge gussets, chin strap, and combo of assorted colorful tin-pressed buttons – the mfsc TRAILBLAZER is in a league of its own. With the four front pockets contrasting with the rounded shirttail panels typical of vintage tuck-in style shirting, the garment had morphed into an overshirt/jacket.
Blending 1930’s details and 1970’s fabrics, the vibe of our TRAILBLAZER is somewhat reminiscent of early California rock climbing and mountaineering (see The Stone Masters, “Valley Uprising” documentary, etc…), rather than the initial Dust Bowl workwear vibe of its Secoya predecessor.

The MF® TRAILBLAZER is designed in California by the Mister Freedom® Board of Experts and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100 % cotton sturdy weft-faced brushed sateen, selvedge. Milled in Japan.
Two color options: Prussian blue and Rust.
Facing: 100% cotton Buzz Rickson’s USN-type indigo chambray, selvedge.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc design, blending vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirt patterns, 1970’s fashionable fabrics, early California rock climbing low-tech vibes, in a contemporary approach.
* Full button-up front.
* Two bottom slash pockets with original “brain-juice special” pocket bag construction.
* Vintage “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Ventilation metal eyelet grommets on underarm and back panels.
* Rounded shirttails with selvedge side gussets.
* 1930’s style chin-strap.
* Front button-up plackets/cuff slits/chest pockets featuring indigo chambray facing accents.
* Combination of 1940’s style tin-pressed metal painted buttons, contrasting colors and models. (Note that the paint chips off easily, as it did on vintage buttons.)
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned down.
* Blue chambray concealed chest pocket, displaying fabric selvedge.
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch overall construction, no open/overlocked seams.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® TRAILBLAZER comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

This shirt is a non tuck-in type, and is considered more like an over-shirt or shirt-jacket. I wear a comfortable Medium in the TRAILBLAZER, my usual size in mfsc shirts, with enough room to layer.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CHART

Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. We recommend turning garments inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric during laundering.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)

Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket, cotton-rayon sateen-back , SS2019 mfsc “Yucatán” Collection, made in Japan.

Papy, instant desert rat, real as a three dollar bill! MF® DIY, The Look You Want – When You Want It!

Mister Freedom “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket.
SS2019 mfsc “YUCATÁN” collection.
Made in Japan.

The making-of this next number is a long – brace yourselves – and soporific story, harking back to my Los Angeles days of relentless thrift-store-hunting and flea-market-prowling…
As a rule I learned during my “American rag Cieboot camp years as a picker, I’d usually pass on poly-cotton garments. But there was something about that 60’s black and white racing jacket I couldn’t leave behind, despite its large modern-looking “Solar Productions” chest patch that threw me off at the time. That was no STP coolness, I thought. Late 1990’s…
If I remember well, this number came out of  Aadvark´s, a today-defunct SoCal vintage clothing store chain with reputedly low-priced hidden treasures, if one took the time to weed through the ocean of run-of-the-mill garb, and knew the trade. The jacket, manufactured by ¨Bowler’s Shirt and Uniform¨ of Los Angeles, was intriguing. No iPhone to google it up on the spot, so i shelled the $20 bucks or so, and took it home, saving it from its Halloween costume fate…

Sported it around town on several occasions, as all I owned were vintage duds at the time. Unsure how I eventually figured out that ¨Solar Productions¨ was Steve McQueen´s own film production company, established around 1965, later located on the CBS lot in Studio City, California. Score!
This piece is one of the very few lucky find that I managed to hold-on to, in my 30 years in the vintage schmatta. The hunt is exciting, but collecting and hoarding less appealing, to me.

Fast-forward to 2018. While working on our ¨YUCATÁN¨ SS2019 mfsc capsule collection, pulling-out that old jacket out of the closet made sense. Quick research had yielded several photos of McQueen himself sporting his, along with other members of the Solar crew. These on-set pictures were mostly captured during the 1969-70 scouting and filming of ¨Le Mans¨ in France. Check-out the bookLe Mans in the Rearview Mirror“.
I’ve always wondered who initially owned that jacket scored some 20 years ago. How many were produced and distributed for promotional purposes? Solar Productions HQ consisted of a staff of about 25 people in 1968. Did mine belong to one of McQueen’s buddies, or employees, or, could it be… ??!
I’ll never know, but that thing sure is a keeper!

An original late 1960’s “Solar Productions” film crew jacket, a lucky thrift-store find in the late 1990’s. (Mister Freedom® Archives)

Back to the MF® Design Dept… It was of course out of the question to replicate that vintage piece verbatim, for obvious Intellectual Property concerns, and because McQueen Racing, Chad McQueen’s company, should obviously be first to release a replica or reissue of the original “Solar Production” crew jacket design.

For our project, we merely used the jacket as an inspiration spark and for its Costume History value, following instead the usual might-have-been MF® design approach. We did borrow the cool snap-on throat-latch stand collar detail gimmick of the original jacket.
For the rest of the design, we tapped into vintage military gear and decided to merge racing with a 1970´s USAF classic, namely a CWU-7P (Cold Weather Unit) ground crew jacket. The Frankenstein result is a contemporary wearable with a classic, timeless vibe.

For the shell fabric, we opted for a double-face woven textile, cotton face and rayon reverse aka cotton-back sateen, an original fabric inspired by vintage 1950’s ‘weatherproof’ McGregor® Scottish Drizzlers we previously featured on our BREEZER Windbreaker. The “DUNE BUGGY” is cut cotton side-out, with the sateen rayon twill side visible on the tonal ‘racing’ chest stripe. The fabric face is rather matte, contrasting with the rayon sateen sheen.
The lining is an elegant British-style woven plaid, cotton/linen blend, milled in an attractive indigo blue and white tartan.

Our “DUNE BUGGY” jacket’s demeanor is quite sleek and unassuming, with an understated 60’s racing vibe. Unless… you decide to rev-up your speedster street credit overnight with a DIY job, sticking on the jacket all kinds of vintage grease monkey-related patches! Pismo Beach dune-riding Baja Boot special, or motorcycle racing à-laOn Any Sunday” desert-rat… Go, Speed Racer, Go!

The MF® “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Shell: Tightly woven blend of 50% cotton (matte face) and 50% rayon twill sateen (shinny reverse, visible on chest racing stripe), aka cotton-back sateen, milled in Japan.
Lining: Cotton/linen blend woven plaid, indigo and white tartan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern blending 1970’s USAF  CWU-7P ground crew jacket, vintage 1960’s racing crew gear, and old Hollywood history.
* Fully lined.
* Understated single racing stripe on chest, displaying the shinier rayon side of the fabric.
* Snap-on throat-latch stand collar 1960’s design.
* Zipper front, 1960’s style vintage Mil-Specs heavy-duty metal zipper.
* Wide lower wrap pockets with slanted snap flaps.
* Single chest pocket with slanted snap flap.
* Wind-flap with zig-zag stitching.
* Snap-on cinch tabs on sleeve cuffs.
* USAF flight jacket-style rear panel shoulder darts.
* Original mfsc “YUCATÁN” rayon woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® “DUNE BUGGY” jacket comes raw/unwashed.

We recommend our usual method for raw washable garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.

This garment is is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
The noticeable difference of shell/lining shrinkage will result in the attractive plaid lining discreetly peeping on the bottom, a subtle cool detail familiar to vintage clothing aficionados.
I opted for a MEDIUM in the “DUNE BUGGY”, my usual size in mfsc jackets. The fit is quite slim but comfortable, with an old-school racing crew jacket silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash separately on delicate (do not use the heavy-duty machine settings, as the metal zipper and pull may damage the fabric during the rapid agitation), cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use hot water or heat dryer.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom “BREEZER” Windbreaker Type 2, Indigo Blue Cotton-Linen Chambray & Red Cotton-Rayon Sateen-back, Spring 2018 mfsc Surplus Collection.

 

 

Mister Freedom® “BREEZER” Windbreaker Type II, Indigo Blue Cotton-Linen Chambray & Red Cotton-Rayon Sateen-back.
Spring 2018 mfsc “
SURPLUS” catalog.
Made in Japan.

If it took us a little while to get to officially introduce the “Breezer”, an original MF® jacket produced in 2010 but only documented in 2017, we figured we’d step on it a bit for the release of the Breezer Type II on this blog.

Our 2010 Breezer jackets, originally available in four fabric options, were part of the motorcycle-inspired “Speedsafe Clothing For Modern Riders” mfsc collection, out of which the Mulholland Master was to become a classic highlight. The Breezer Type II is now part of our on-going SURPLUS collection, our selection of designed-in-USA and made-in-Japan classics.

Borrowing its puny moniker from the famous “Scottish Drizzler”, our “Breezer” combines several vintage styles of windbreakers. The “Drizzler” was the classic zipper jacket introduced in 1947 by sportswear specialist McGregor®, an iconic label with a genius design team, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. Departing from purely replicating the past, our Breezer blends 50’s swing tops, 40’s US Navy/USMC summer flight jackets (type M-421A), 60’s British vibes, into a casual classic-looking jacket.
The SS2018 Breezer Type II is a “simplified” version of its SS2010 forerunner. We removed the inner and rear pockets, the elbow diamond patch and underarm gussets, but tricked-out the two front patch pockets into a double layer hand-warming pocket pattern. We added narrow cinch tabs to the waist and wrists, as a 50’s sportswear reference.

The Type II comes in two distinct fabric options, both exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan.
The first is a fine indigo selvedge chambray, a slubby tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen. This blue chambray fabric is quite reminiscent of the 1950’s French Marine Nationale utility uniform fabric that had inspired our Sea Hunt Spring 2014 Crew Pants (see original blog post here), but features a darker and more reddish indigo hue, a denser weave, and a selvedge with white/red stripe ID. It was recently introduced with the release of our SS2018 Naval Chinos.

The second fabric option is a subtle nod to vintage Hollywood, more specifically “Rebel Without A Cause” from 1955. In the second half of the movie, Jim Stark drops slacks and tweed sportcoat, proper 1950’s High School attire, and gears-up in a red jacket, white Tshirt, Lee® 101-Z blue jeans and a pair of mean-looking engineer boots, laying down style rules for future generations of teenage rebels. The iconic red zip-up nylon windbreaker was apparently produced by the “Bud Berma” label, although some believe the movie jacket was a cherry red McGregor Anti-Freeze model…

Our Breezer pattern is obviously not a lift of that jacket, but we did borrow the Technicolor® red from the movie. The fabric of the red Breezer is the same as that of our original Breezer, a double-face woven textile, cotton face and rayon reverse aka cotton-back sateen, inspired by vintage 1950’s ‘weatherproof’ McGregor® Scottish Drizzlers. Our Breezer is cut cotton side-out, with the sateen rayon twill side visible from the unlined reverse side. The fabric face is rather matte, contrasting with the rayon sateen luxurious sheen.

Back in 2010, we had borrowed the design idea of the contrast tartan accents from the G9, a classic golf jacket introduced in 1937 under the British Baracuta label, “Aristocrat of Tailored Rainwear”. Our Type II Breezer features a “Dress Steward” woven plaid cotton/linen fabric, a selvedge New Old Stock textile from the MF® vault. It is displayed on the facing of the front panels, stand collar lining, and front pockets.

The MF® BREEZER Windbreaker Type II is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) Fine, tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen indigo chambray, slubby texture, white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled Japan.
Partial lining: NOS woven tartan, cotton/linen blend.

b) Tightly woven blend of 50% cotton (matte face) and 50% rayon twill sateen (shinny reverse), aka cotton-back sateen, milled in Japan.
Partial lining: NOS woven tartan, cotton/linen blend.

SPECS:
* An original MF® design blending 1950’s swing tops, vintage British windproof jackets and 1940’s summer issue US Navy/USMC pilot jackets. This Type II is a modified version of our 2010 Breezer Jacket.
* Unlined body.
* “Dress Steward” tartan woven plaid accents, cut from NOS selvedge fabric, featured on front panel facing, stand collar and pocket lining.
* Two front patch pockets, doubling-up as hand-warmer pockets.
* Stand collar, double snap closure.
* 1950’s-style “TALON” metal zipper, cotton tape.
* Narrow cinch tabs for waist and wrists.
* Mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Breezer Type II comes raw/unwashed, and we recommend an initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry. Both fabric options will shrink to approximately the same tagged size.

I opted for a size 38 in both models. I did use a heat dryer for a few minutes, for both fabrics, to maximize shrinkage and add puckering to the seams. If the fit on both fabric options is similar, the chambray Breezer feels a bit roomier than the red cotton/rayon model. This is mostly due to the very different drape of both textiles.
Please refer to sizing chart for cold soak/spin dry/line dry approximate measurements.

 

CARE:
Wash separately on delicate, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Retail: $469.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Vest, Man’s, Down, Cotton Sateen, OG-107 , Fall 2014. Made in USA.

Down Vest Mister Freedom Fall 2014

Down Vest Mister Freedom Fall 2014

Down Vest Mister Freedom Fall 2014

Down Vest Mister Freedom Fall 2014

 

OG-107 Man’s, Vest, Down
“The Sportsman” Fall 2014

Following the smashing debut of our OG-107 cotton sateen-back Sportsman Chinos, here is another MF® garment in the same Mil-Specs fabric.
Alert the media, it’s our first ever down vest! We had an opportunity for a down-filled garment a while back, but manufacturing was in China, and I had passed my comfort zone quota with the MF® x Palladium Palladenim experience, however pleased with the results.

After some research, we sourced a domestic qualified manufacturing facility, a place basically looking like a giant pillow fight.
If you are skilled at deciphering the Country of Origin of goods while navigating on-line stores, you might assume that there are not that many places manufacturing down-filled garments in the USA. Thankfully, in 2014, there are still a few domestic options left:
Respectable companies such as  Sierra Designs or Nunatak offer a USA-made selection of down vests.
For the crafty types and bench-made fans, there’s always the DIY route. Start here to select your filling of choice.
Then you got the obscurely-named “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down”, the latest addition to the Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog.

Our down vest is inspired by 1960’s-70’s outdoor garments and military gear, another case of civvies in Mil-Spec fabrics.
The shell is a  “4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) 9 Oz. cotton back sateen”, similar to the fabric of the US Army M-51 field jackets, as introduced with our OG-107 cotton sateen-back chinos.
We opted for a rip-stop 100% cotton lining in a slightly different shade of Army green, for a subtle tonal contrast.

Don’t miss this helpful (often hysterical) perspective on the subject of which enigmatic green color was actually used by the US Army during WW2.
For more daltonian confusion, dig this excerpt from the Jan/Feb 1952 issue of the “Quartermaster Review”:

…” A further consideration in the matter of color of the general wear uniform is the fact that while the shade (O.D. #33) of the present service uniform was originally selected as a camouflage color for a field uniform, this type of color is no longer regarded as satisfactory from this standpoint. Research undertaken during World War II led to the adoption of a darker green color (O.D. #7) as the basic color of the combat uniform. This color has lately been modified slightly and a somewhat deeper shade with a slightly different cast (Olive Green #107) but otherwise very close to O.D. #7, has been adopted as the basic color for camouflage of the soldier’s combat uniform. Accordingly, there is no requirement for shade O.D #33 from a camouflage standpoint. Without this advantage, the only other basis for retaining this color would be a definite preference for this shade for the service uniform; such preference has not been strongly evidenced.“…

But again, this is a civilian garment, as we leave the reenactment gear to the serious guys.
So, with some older NOS signal orange cotton twill from the MF® stock, we added a ‘survival’ touch to our OD down vest, matching the vibe of our on-going “Sea Hunt” Collection. Both collar facing and inside pockets display that orange twill, bringing subbtle contrasting accents to this utilitarian-looking vest.
When stranded in dark woods , signal your presence by lifting that collar, should Elmer Fudd get overly trigger-happy.
Incomiiiiiing!!!

Elmer Fudd Courtesy Warner Bros

Our vest is quite fluffy. The filling is 90% down and 10% feathers. Overtime and with normal wear, the puffiness will lessen but this is a garment that definitely looks better on slender body types. I, myself, tend to look more like the Michelin man than Gary Cooper with it, granted the vest might not be the only culprit.

This down-filled garment is patterned with a vintage silhouette in mind, preferably worn with mid to high rise type bottoms. The lower rounded rear panel dips slightly, while the front of the garment follows the natural waist, typical of 50’s-60’s outdoor vests.
That length might not be ideal for those partial to the low-waist plumber’s look. Additionally, this vest might have too much of a Vietnam “FLAK Jacket” vibe for some with more modern aesthetics. Add to that a collar hinting to a buoyancy device and I believe I’ve sealed the deal.
But Travis Bickle and I like this vest, and not just because it makes for an excellent airplane/camping pillow.
“That’s right there sizzlechest, whatever you need sold I’ll sell it. I’m silly.”

The “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down” is designed and manufactured in the USA, by Mister Freedom® and Frank Rizzo, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, with fabrics loomed  in Japan or vintage NOS.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage by 1960’s-70’s outdoor garments and military gear.

FABRIC:
Shell: Mil-specs Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green) 4/1 cotton back sateen, milled in Japan.
(Pantone Color approx reference would be  450 U)
Lining: 100% cotton rip-stop, (dark OD shade #41, or is it #31? #7?…), milled in Japan.
Collar facing/ inside pockets: Vintage NOS 100% cotton selvedge twill, signal orange, origin USA.

DETAILS:
* 1950′s-60’s type silhouette and fit.
* Sleeveless.
* 90% down and 10% feathers filling, horizontal quilting.
* Longer rear panel tail.
* OD painted metal snap front closure.
* Storm collar with signal orange accent.
* Hand-warmer pockets.
* Two inside pockets.
* Genuine paracord hanger loop.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/WASHING:
The “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down” are sold RAW (unwashed) and should stay that way.
They are true-to-size. I am usually a Medium/38 in mfsc garments and wear a Medium in the vest, with not much extra room for a couscous royal when snapped closed.
Light superficial stains can be spot-cleaned and sponged off with a damp cloth and mild soap.
However, when needed, we recommend professional dry cleaning by an eco-friendly facility familiar with down-filled garments.
Do NOT boil. Do NOT throw in the washer on ‘heavy-duty’.

Refer to charts below for measurements:

OD Sateen Down Vest Mister Freedom

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

RETAIL $349.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any areas not covered above, such as the couscous royal recipe.
As always, thank you truly for your support.

OG-107 Cotton sateen-back Sportsman Chinos, Fall 2014. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

OG-107 Cotton Sateen-back Chino Trousers
“The Sportsman” Fall 2014

This might come as a surprise to the original gangster in cell 107, but OG-107 is a reference to the shade #107 of Olive Green that the US Army had settled on as the color of  its uniforms, sometime in the early 1950’s. It became by extension a nickname for the set of utilities the issued to military personnel.

For those who enjoy discussing shades of green in the military at the family dinner table, here is a good starting point for interesting historical facts and references, such as:

…”On 7 April 1950, the Uniform Board presented its first uniform display to the General Staff. In order to provide a wide range of color choices, the QMC dressed mannequins in 31 uniforms of different color combinations but of similar design. Among the colors were the 16 shades of gray-green, three shades of gray, five of blue, and one of taupe. For comparison, the uniform line-up included the existing olive-drab and green and pink Army uniforms, and the Navy, Air Force, Marine Corps and U.S. Military Academy uniforms.“…

Follow this insider’s scoop by this piece of goodness, for more than you are probably willing to read about OD vs. OG, Army Green 44 vs. Olive Drab shade 7…
Please keep in mind that the more punctilious the regulations, the more arguably accurate the dye batches and paint mixes delivered by contracted manufacturers. Wartime production crunch time didn’t help either.

Back on point, I’d love to tell you we raided an abandoned storage brick building around the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot and scored a few rolls of NOS mil-specs OG cotton sateen fabric for our “Sportsman” chinos… Instead, we settled for a yardage batch from the folks at Buzz Rickson’s, who know a thing or two about period mil-specs textiles.
One might be familiar with this specific fabric, technically a  “4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) 9 Oz. cotton back sateen”, as it is similar to the shell part of the US Army M-51 field jacket (save for the water-repellent treatment and the shade of green).

M51 Pantone Mister Freedom

Because we were more preoccupied with getting an even tan than with re-inventing the wheel this summer, we decided to roll with our classic Sportsman chinos pattern, the flat felled side seam type. Already available in several fabric options the entire World envies us for, we are adding the OG-107 chinos to the catalog for Fall 2014, a civvy garment in a military fabric.
These pants have a late 1950’s type silhouette, quite comfortable by today standards. They won’t  prevent blood flow to the lower limbs, offering just enough room for an occasional mawashi geri  on Black Friday.

The Sportsman OG-107 Chinos are designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, fabric loomed  in Japan.

Please note that production comes without ID stencils on the waistband facing.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants.

FABRIC: Mil-specs Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green) 4/1 cotton back sateen
(An approx. Pantone Color reference would be  450 U)

DETAILS:
* Relaxed 1950′s type silhouette and fit.
* Natural corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam construction.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* The ever charming ‘crotch gusset’.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* Natural color 100% cotton sail cloth pocket bags, waist band and fly facing.
* Watch pocket, for which you will have to find a use.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/WASHING:
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size. The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size. This OG107 issue feels slightly slimmer than other Sportsman chinos versions, such as its Beach Chino twill or Indigo Métisse comrades, partly because of the flat felled outside seam construction vs. the plain seam type.
The bottom are left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch cuff, regular single needle machine stitch.

This cotton fabric is pretty low maintenance. Original cold soak and line dry. Further washing when needed, on gentle cycle, warm/cold water, line dry. If you insist on the heat dryer, turn trousers inside out to avoid issues with an undesirable ‘marbling’ effect.
Time between laundry will vary greatly according to one’s occupation and common sense: wash when dirty.

Refer to charts below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

Sportsman OD Chino Size Chart

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist Sizes: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $289.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
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