Fifty shades of Mister Freedom®, a leg ornamentation retrospective.

Pile of freshly-laundered Mister Freedom® rags…

Naval Chinos (Chino twill combo) FW2010 “Naval Clothing Tailor

Chino Riders (Tan chino twill) SS2010 “Speedsafe For Modern Riders

Californian Lot.44 (NOS denim) FW2011 “American Sportswear

Californian Lot.44 (NOS P21 denim) FW2011 “American Sportswear

Pantalon Apache (Covert Stripe) SS2011 “Les Apaches

Pantalon Apache (Stripe Brown) SS2011 “Les Apaches

Pantalon Ouvrier (Métisse) SS2011 “Les Apaches

Pantalon Ouvrier (Rayure) SS2011 “Les Apaches

Pantalon Peau-de-Diable (Black moleskine) FW2011 “Les Apaches

Pantalon Apache (Stripe Blue) SS2011 “Les Apaches

Speedways Pique (Cream) FW2011 “American Sportswear

Britches Chaparral (Brown Canvas) SS2012 “Men of the Frontier

Faro Britches (Gunpowder HBT) FW2012 “Men of the Frontier

Frontier Chinos (denim Type B) FW2012 “Men of the Frontier

Gunslinger Pantaloons (Desert twill) SS2012 “Men of the Frontier

Gunslingers Pantaloons (indigo x indigo twill) SS2012 “Men of the Frontier

Californian Lot.64 (SC1966 denim) FW2013 “Sportsman Catalog

El Americano (Duck Canvas) FW2013 “Viva la Revolución

Hacendado Trousers (Baja denim) SS2013 “Viva la Revolución

Hacendado Trousers (Homespun) SS2013 “Viva la Revolución

Hacendado Trousers (Indigo Stripe Beige) SS2013 “Viva la Revolución

Vaquero (Okinawa 301 denim) SS2013 “Viva la Revolución

Californian Lot.64 cut-off (SC1966 denim) FW2013 “Sportsman Catalog

Révolutionaire (NOS coutil) 2013 “Sportsman Catalog

Crew Pants (“Marine Nationale” Chambray) SS2014 “Sea Hunt

Crew Pants (Cachou Twill) SS2014 “Sea Hunt

Topsiders (MN denim) SS2014 “Sea Hunt

Topsiders (Okinawa 301 denim) SS2014 “Sea Hunt

Sportsman Chinos (Beach twill) SS2014 “Sportsman Catalog

Sportsman Chinos (OG-107 Cotton back sateen) FW2014 “Sportsman Catalog

Utility Trousers (Cachou/Highland camo) SS2015 “Saigon Cowboy

Californian Lot.64 (Okinawa 301 denim) FW2014 “Sportsman Catalog

Utility Trousers (2×1 denim) SS2015 “Saigon Cowboy”

Tiger Board Shorts (Buzz Rickson’s TSP gold tiger) SS2015 “Sportsman Catalog

Californian Lot.74 (NOS Cone denim) FW2015 “Sportsman Catalog

Garrison Trousers (Olive GB denim) FW2015 “Saigon Cowboy

Garrison Trousers (Indigo x indigo twill) FW2015 “Saigon Cowboy

Malibu’s (Malibu blue denim) SS2015 “Sportsman Catalog

Malibu’s (Sand denim) SS2015 “Sportsman Catalog

Sportsman Slacks (Gunpowder HBT) FW2015 “Sportsman Catalog

Bosco Pants (Hydrone twill) SS2016 “Skipper

Manureva cut-off (Tutti Frutti) SS2016 “Skipper

Manureva (Nep denim) SS2016 “Skipper

Pareo Indigo SS2016 “Skipper

Continental Trousers (NOS Cacao Chambray) FW2016 “Sportsman Catalog

Continental Trousers (NOS Moss denim) SS2016 “Sportsman Catalog

Californian Lot.674 (Okinawa 301 denim) SS2017 “Sportsman Catalog

VEB belt and MF® “Trench-Art” custom vintage 40’s French Army belt.

 

Assorted Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc pants, 2010-2017.
Made in USA or Japan.

A non-exhaustive retrospective of some mfsc pants we designed through the years, randomly selected from my closet, post laundry.
Normal on/off wear and periodical cold water wash, natural patina, no factory distressing. The bleached-out marks of some of the blue jeans come from sitting bundled-up on the roof for a few weeks, under the California sun.

Check out www.misterfreedom.com for stock availability (click on photo caption links), visit the MF® Los Angeles brick & mortar store, email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Trousers ‘El Americano’, indigo corduroy, duck canvas, stripe covert. MFSC Fall 2013 final chapter.

El Americano Trousers Mister Freedom 2013

 

El Americano Trousers Mister Freedom 2013

 

El Americano Trousers Mister Freedom 2013

 

 

“Trousers El Americano”
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

You are now familiar with “El Americano“, the friendly fella introduced in the Fall 2013 chapter of mfsc “Viva la Revolución” collection…

You had been warned that, following the three ‘El Americano’ waistcoats and blousons, the final custom order to François, ze recently immigrated tailor of La Calle Primera in Ensenada, included a set of trousers.
For those who have no idea what I am talking about, believing I should lay off the peyote at work, just you wait…

In the Fall of 1492, Cristóbal Libertad, the eldest son of an Andalucía born conquistadore whose horse had…
Por favor!!!!
Alright already… You deserve a break for the Holidays, so here is the short version, to everyone’s relief.

This is the ultimate chapter of our “Viva la Revolución” saga, spanning Spring and Fall 2013.
The style of these here trousers is inspired by 1920’s-30’s type gentlemen slacks, from the olden days when a man’s waist rose above hip bones and trousers were not yet used as tourniquet devices…
Wide waistband with skinny belt loops, pocket decorative arcuate stitch, adjustable side straps, ‘smiley’ back pockets are a few period elements we played with for the ‘El Americano Trousers’.

Three entirely different fabrics were developed for ‘El Americano Trousers’, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck (Medium-light weight, softer hand)
b) Grey Covert Stripe (medium weight, stiff)
c) Indigo vat dyed Corduroy (heavy weight, softer)
Although individual patterns were made for each fabric, and the cut remains the same, fabric thickness determines the drape of a garment. Heavier and stiffer fabrics having less drape (less flow) than lighter ones, the trousers in indigo corduroy will look/feel different from the brown duck version.

For pocket bags and waist lining, we are using our staple 8.5 Oz. indigo covert fabric previously introduced this season, an indigo dyed yarn covert twill, milled in Japan (originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s vintage trousers from the 1890′s)

Of styling and such:
These trousers can be dressed up or down, according to your preferences and personal style.
I quite like the time-tested classic cocktail ‘trousers/leather jacket/engineer boots‘, somewhat of a ‘Treasure of the Sierra Madre’ vibe… (The hat is a vintage Dobbs, available at your local flea market)

El Americano Mister Freedom 2013

Cristóbal Libertad de Los Angeles de la Sierra Madre, Junior.

To those considering such an outfit too ‘costumey’, I would mention that I have witnessed, on many occasions, that systematically selecting one’s wardrobe according to the current year can have brutal consequences.
Living in fear of a 1990’s selfie popping up on FaceBook can be stressful. You know, the one featuring a mind-boggling C.A. designed garment on a relative’s back?
Assuming you are sane, I believe you can pull almost anything as long as you are comfortable with it. If you have doubts, don’t expect them not to transpire.
Own it, or don’t do it.
As a general rule of thumb however, don’t let strangers tell you what to wear, that’s what house mirrors are for 😉

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s-30’s gentlemen slacks.

FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930′s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear. Milled in Japan.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge and the original stiffness of linen. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled… Milled in Japan.
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed. Very deep dark indigo shade. Soft, cozy and warm. Milled and dyed in Japan.

DETAILS
* Straight leg, 20’s~30’s gent slacks type silhouette, higher rise, MF® revisited.
* Adjustable side straps with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* Clean side seam: Selvedge for duck and covert options, indigo popeline tape for corduroy.
* Double button waist closure (please note that the corduroy option has one single metal rivet button, due to bulkiness of fabric)
* Button fly. ‘Art Deco’ type corrozo buttons.
* Indigo covert fabric pocket bags and waistband lining.
* Trousers thin belt loops (not five pocket jeans like)
* Decorative arcuate stitch on pockets, an early European tailoring detail.
* ‘Smiley’ type rear welt pockets.
* Lap seam (aka caballo machine) seat and inseam construction
* Made in Japan

SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak/line dry cycle. Raw measurements might differ due to the way each fabric shrinks.
Hand washable with line dry or professional eco-friendly dry cleaning.

Length: Overall inseam is 34 inches with a 1½” inside fold.

For the Indigo corduroy “Trousers El Americano”, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments. Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.

I wear from waist 30 or 32 in mfsc pants and I opted for a 32 in these.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss.

El Americano Indigo Corduroy

Indigo Corduroy

El Americano Grey Stripe

Grey Covert

El Americano Brown Canvas

Brown Canvas

Available raw/unwashed
Waist sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38

 

Retail:
a
) El Americano Trousers, Brown Duck $499.95
b)
 El Americano Trousers, Grey Covert Stripe $499.95
c)
 El American Trousers, Indigo Corduroy $549.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and a few select fine retailers Worldwide.
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.

“SPORTSMAN CHINOS” (Made in California), Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ Collection, Spring 2013

Sportsman Chinos ©2013 Mister Freedom®

“The SPORTSMAN CHINOS”
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co, ‘The Sportsman’ Collection
MFSC Spring 2013

Having introduced ‘The Sportsman’ concept collection with our “Sportsman Shirt” and “Skivvy Shirt” earlier this month, we’ll get right into this new addition for Spring 2013. Aren’t you happy, no rambling this time 😉

The ‘SPORTSMAN CHINOS’ are another Mister Freedom® take on a beloved classic, using some signature details we like. Simple design, a non-trendy MF® interpretation of traditional work-meets-casual pants.
The pattern we used is very similar to that of the denim “Frontier Chinos“, made this time in a durable selvedge ‘chino’ cotton twill, milled in Japan.

Designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants and 1950’s cotton slacks.

FABRIC:
Raw 100% cotton selvedge ‘Chino’ twill, ‘honey’ color, milled in Japan on shuttle looms.

DETAILS:
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed 1950’s type silhouette and fit, mid-rise.
* Corozo wood button fly and top waist button.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* NOS hickory stripe 100% cotton twill pocket bags, origin USA.
* Natural 100% cotton sailcloth waist band and fly facing.
* Chino twill selvedge fold on inside front slash pockets.
* Watch pocket, that no one ever uses to put a watch in.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Featuring the ever attractive sounding ‘Crotch gusset’.
* Vintage USN web belt NOT included, but you knew that.

SIZING/WASHING:
These pants should be pretty low maintenance, but we still recommend gentle cold wash and line dry. The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and are not sanforized, they will shrink to tagged size.
The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size. These are not tights, but man pants.
Like with vintage good quality cotton khaki twill pants, the “Sportsman Chinos’ will lighten up gradually in color and soften up to ‘butter status’ with repeat wash/wear.
Refer to chart below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

Sportsman Chinos Sizing chart ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $289.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

“HACENDADO Trousers”, Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” Collection, Part 4/7)

Hacendado Trousers ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® MFSC “HACENDADO Trousers”
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012

To complement our hacendado sack coat, here is the second part of the three piece suiting series for Spring 2013.
Inspired by several pattern of 1900’s to 1930’s slacks, the hacendado flat front trousers’ silhouette is reminiscent of classic 1920’s slacks, such as the tropical garb made by “Palm Beach Mills” (Goodall Company, Cincinnati, Ohio.) Vintage clothing aficionados might be familiar with that awesome label (see 1920 Ad below).

Palm Beach Mills 1920 Ad

Our hacendado trousers come in three fabric options:
Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930′s vintage waistcoat.
Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
Baja Denim: Lighter shade indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.

Spring 2013 Fabrics swatches Hacendado ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Again, wearing a matching set is definitely a statement, and mismatching the fabrics a good alternative. These trousers can also be paired with less ‘dressy’ clothes and footwear to tone them down, as often seen of period photography (out of necessity more than as a fashion statement.)
Cuffing options are up to you as well, I personally opted for a standard 1¼ fold with my own pairs.

All designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co. Limited edition.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by several vintage trousers from the 1900’s to the 1930’s. Elegant silhouette, for Gents not into skinny bottoms, or tights.
FABRICS:
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.

DETAILS:
* Higher rise, fit seat and fuller legs.
* Wide waistband with double button closure.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* Thin belt loops, trousers style.
* “Italian” type front pockets, with fabric selvedge fold and early European arcuate decorative stitch.
* “Smiley” type rear welt pockets, with arcuate stitch. MF®, again putting a smile on your buns.
* Four button fly.
* Corozo wood buttons, aka ‘coconut wood’.
* Adjustable side cinch straps with French NOS metal slider buckles.
* MFSC stripe ticking 100% cotton waist lining and pocket bags. Fly facing with all cotton unbleached popeline.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.

PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.

SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado trousers will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
The waist fit is ‘generous’, so if you are an actual 32” waist, get a marked 32 (see below fit pix of stripe hacendado trousers, waist 32, rinsed and hung dry, with extra Pelvis shot 😉

Hacendado Trousers silly fit pix ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Refer to sizing charts below for approximate measurements:

Baja Trousers Sizing Mister Freedom® ©2013

Baja

STRIPE Trousers Sizing Mister Freedom® ©2013

Stripe

HOMESPUN Trousers Sizing Mister Freedom® ©2013

Homespun

Available RAW/Unwashed.
Waist SIZE 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
(Length after rinsing 34”)

Retail $539.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 8): The “FARO BRITCHES”

Faro Britches rig Mister Freedom® ©2012

Mister Freedom® MFSC “FARO BRITCHES”
Men of the Frontier Fall 2012

Wrapping up a busy year and, along with it, our Men of the Frontier collection, here is the final Fall chapter: The FARO BRITCHES.

For these trousers, we have combined our original ‘Britches Chaparral‘ pattern with the linen/cotton HBT selvedge fabric from our ‘Faro Sack Coat” and ‘Faro Waistcoat‘.
I have yet to wear the Faro ‘three piece suit’, ‘Ditto Suit’ style, but I often mix two matching pieces with a contrasting third. For instance Faro sack coat and waistcoat worn with stripe ‘gunslinger’ type trousers or just a good pair of jeans. Or HBT Faro Britches and Waistcoat with an old leather jacket or MF® cotton Sack Coat
But enough shameless self promo, you know what works for you better than I do 😉

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted by Sugar Cane Co in Japan for MFSC. Limited edition.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s-1940’s work type trousers and cotton gentleman slacks, borrowing from both the American West and the Old World. Mid/high rise.

FABRIC:
“Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan.
Pocketing and waist Lining: HBT cotton (ochre color), an original MFSC fabric, woven in Japan (same fabric we used for the lining of the Faro Waistcoat)

DETAILS:
* Selvedge outer leg seam.
* Slash type front pockets, with inner selvedge angled stitched fold.
* Gun metal color donut button fly with double button waist.
* Two slash rear pockets, with arrowhead type button flaps.
* Watch pocket
* Trousers tailor-made type pocket bags construction and lining, with 100% cotton original HBT fabric. All biased taped edges.
* Black color 100% cotton thread high-count stitching
* Flat felled seam seat construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the Faro Britches comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.

SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
About 2-5% shrinkage on this fabric. If you are usually a 32 waist, get a tagged 32.
We recommend an original cold soak and line dry. Subsequent cleaning should be done with the trousers flipped inside/out (to avoid marbling), gentle cycle, cold water, with minimal environmentally friendly detergent and line dry.
NOTE:  Full washing cycle in warm water and machine dry WILL result in more shrinkage (around 5%) and color loss. NOT recommended.

See chart below for raw and post cold soak/line dry approx. measurements:

Faro Britches measurements Mister Freedom® ©2012

 

Available RAW/Unwashed
Tagged Sizes (= will shrink to sizes):
W28 × L33
W30 × L33
W32 × L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L34
W38 × L34
RETAIL: $549.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.