Mister Freedom® SCUBA Utilities, “Okinawa 301” left-hand twill denim
mfsc SS2022 FROGSVILLE
Made in Japan
These came about as we were considering turning the Scuba Trunks pattern – inspired by old school UDT combat swimmer shorts – into a pair of pants. The mission? Coming up with a pair of dungarees not related to the ubiquitous 5-pocket jeans, that could have existed.
“Wanna turn shorts into pants?”, I quipped, “Here it is, Barney-style, just add legs!”
The Mister Freedom® Design Dept kindly remarked that morphing our swim trunks into a pair of practical work pants may take a few more cups of brain juice.
First, we needed front pockets for functionality, so we borrowed the patch pocket design (sandwiched in the outseam) of our Utility Trousers from 2015.
For the back of the pants, the single square pocket of the trunks felt too plain, so we tapped our Swabbies for a more visually-pleasing rear pocketing design. We also needed two pockets, to balance with the absence of back yoke, also a feature of our classic Speedways, anecdotally. The four pockets are cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with the traditional vertical warp used for the legs, which always makes for interesting fabric roping and patina.
We of course kept the no-belt loops style waist band and D-ring cinch strap, pure vintage UDT shorts legacy.
There it is. A modern day wearable blending vintage military aesthetics and utilitarian clothing functionality, as featured in the “Chairborne Commando” star-studded Hollywood blockbuster.
Our Scuba Trunks may have challenged some in the Heritage Fashion community regarding “how short can you go?”, and, incidentally puzzled a few beach goers in my coastal neighborhood for a couple of years now, but its long-legged successor, the Scuba Utes, shouldn’t raise too many eyebrows in public. At least initially. Just wait for the “sick fades” on that sweet “Okinawa 301” indigo left-hand twill denim, and watch the crowds part and jaws drop!
The MF® Scuba Utilities are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
Fancy “Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo premium denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID, a Sugar Cane Co proprietary fabric. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 80% cotton and 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage military swimmers trunks and UDT shorts, US Navy dungarees, Army field trousers and other utilitarian classic garments.
* Old school high rise, classic straight leg cut.
* Adjustable waist strap with Mil-Specs double D-ring buckle, ½ inch ~ 1 inch cinch.
* Waistband facing displaying denim selvedge ID.
* No belt loops.
* Front patch pocket original pattern, sandwiched in flat-felled outseam.
* Double rear pockets, concealed selvedge ID on inside fold.
* All four pockets cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with vertical warp of legs.
* Button fly, black painted metal “donut” wreath tack buttons.
* Chainstitch seam construction.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® SCUBA Utilities are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.
- Cold soak garment for about 30 mn in bathtub or washing machine, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
- Line dry/drip dry.
The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the denim fabric, and is normal. Stiffness will easily subside with normal wear, fabric will soften.
The D-ring waist strap allows for about ½ inch to one inch cinch. I opted for a W31 in the Scuba Utilities, fully cinched, for a comfortable fit (I wear a W32 in all models of Scuba Trunks.) I’m about 5’7 / 145-150 lbs.
CARE:
Wash when necessary, as other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the pants inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022
Mister Freedom® “NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” (NCT) CHINOS, 12Oz “301 Okinawa” SC denim.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” catalog.
Made in JAPAN.
This pattern was part of the original line-up of the small grouping that somewhat managed to put us on the fashion map sometime in 2008, i.e. the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) capsule collection.
For the nostalgics, we still unearth remnants from our ship’s stowage occasionally, a misplaced stack here, mislabeled box there, and we update inventory with New Old Stock (NOS).
A reissue of the original chino twill model was released for our 2016 mfsc ten-year anniversary, and we have issued several iterations of that pattern through the years.
Our NCT Chinos are inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, a pattern plausibly revisited by a Naval Base tailor at some point, featuring a mix of period Mil-Specs and fancy civvy custom tailoring. The cut is fairly representative of our early days, featuring a slimmer leg and lower rise than military originals. We were at the time morphing the high-waisted and baggy cuts of 1930s-40s utilitarian designs with European tailored silhouettes. Most of our bottoms today feature a higher rise than our NCT Chinos.
For Fall 2020, we are introducing a denim model of the NCT Chinos pattern, cut from an old mfsc favorite, a 12Oz. “301 Okinawa” selvedge denim exclusively developed and trademarked by Sugar Cane Co in Japan. That special Left Hand Twill (LHT) denim has been milled in several fabric weights by SC through the years, but consistently consists of a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. The sugar cane fibers, a by-product of the sugar cane industry, are responsible for the slubby and “hairy” quality of the twill, and, full disclaimer, we have heard stories about customers plucking out prickly fibers in the weave with tweezers!
One of the more desirable characteristics of this premium denim is the combination of both a dark indigo warp and rapid fading ability. MF® OG denimheads will attest to the rewarding patina potential of the Okinawa denim family.
The pocket bags are cut from an old mfsc classic fabric, a fancy striped ticking twill inspired by antique French textiles. For a subdued demeanor, we kept the stitching tonal and opted for black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons for the fly and waistband.
The decorative arcuate stitch on the slash and welt pocket openings is a detail borrowed from early European tailoring. The leg construction uses flat-felled seams and the Okinawa selvedge is displayed in each pocket facing.
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos “Okinawa” denim edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers, custom-made military garments and early European tailoring.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Designed in USA.
* Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos in “Okinawa” denim come RAW/unwashed. The garment is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. The denim will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Line dry. (No heat dryer)
I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I hemmed my pair to my preferred length with a traditional 1¾ fold. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
CARE:
Wash when necessary, using appropriate methods pertaining to premium denim.
We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, as the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 
Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc SS2019 RESTOCK.
Made in USA.
These two numbers were initially released during FW2017.
All sizes of the popular Mister Freedom® “OKINAWA” Californian Lot64BB and Ranch Blouse are back in stock for SS2019.
Fabric and specs are exactly the same as the original release.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
Mister Freedom® mfsc BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls, “Okinawa 301” denim edition.
FW2018 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.
The term ‘buckaroo’ has its commonly agreed-on origin in the late 1800s days of the American Frontier, when Spanish settlers and bad hombres referred to cowboys and ranch hands as vaqueros, vaca meaning cow in the Spanish language, with the v pronounced close to a b. The anglicized version and phonetic spelling caught on.
Sometime in 2012, we introduced a new blue jeans pattern, the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc “BUCKAROOS” Waist Overalls, initially issued in two distinct NOS denim twills.
These dungarees were a departure from the average five-pocket jeans, and featured an intricate rear cinch strap pattern. This ‘buckle-back’ style was not lifted from any vintage sample, but came out of the drawing table of our Los Angeles atelier, and trial & error prototype making. (Someone did mention having seen a similar pattern on a vintage catalog that I’m not aware of. That wouldn’t be surprising as nihil novi sub sole seems to apply to clothing design.)
We matched our original back yoke/strap construction with a ‘western’ type front pockets pattern. The folded flap buttons up to the pocket yoke, a feature that could come in handy when horseback riding or sitting on a bouncy old truck bench seat, to prevent the content of pockets from spilling out. There are many examples of this type of front pocket construction on western slacks, although it is uncommon on denim dungarees besides a rare iconic model made by HeadLight in the 30’s~40’s.
By popular demand, the MF® Bucks’ are making a comeback for Fall 2018. We raided Sugar Cane Co’s vault of exclusive denim twills, and secured an old mfsc favorite, the mighty “Okinawa 301”, a ‘hairy’ 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, blend of 20% sugarcane fibers and 80% cotton, with a white/green line selvedge ID.
This “Okinawa” denim has enviable fading potential and will progressively develop a desirable patina overtime, with normal wear/wash cycles.
Proud and devoted owners of garments cut from this sugarcane fiber denim family, from the Californian LOT.64 BB, “Okinawa” Ranch Blouse, Top Siders Okinawa, …, to the old elusive “Blue Shirt”, can testify.
For more ramblings relating to design tidbits, hot-branding the leather patch and b/w photography, refer to the original buckaroos post, as we’re making ‘em just the way we used to.
The MF® BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from selvedge denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by western slacks, vintage denim dungarees and old imagery.
FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301”, 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID.
Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. This fabric is exclusive to Toyo Enterprises.
Pocket bags: Vintage NOS cotton twill, navy blue color, sturdy workwear fabric, origin France.
DETAILS:
* ‘Old West’ silhouette, revisited.
* Original front pocket style with folding buttoned flap. Reinforcement un-marked copper riveting.
* Original MFSC upper curved cinch back strap, sandwiched in the back yoke, riveted.
* Wider rear belt loops (to slide the cinch on top or under the belt loop.)
* Original MF® “Californian” shank metal buttons, ‘old stock’ silver finish.
* Concealed rivets on back pockets with original “M” stitch and slightly curved opening.
* Original double labeling. One printed cloth label with original artwork mounted during construction, partially superimposed by a leather patch with “MF” hot branding.
* All 100% cotton color thread. We are using an original MFSC combination of 12 types of gauge/color thread per pair. Main colors are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* Sturdy 100% cotton vintage New Old Stock navy blue twill pocket bags.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The “Okinawa” BUCKAROOS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a cold-soak/hang-dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol:
* Cold soak for about one hour, with occasional hand agitation, spin dry.
* Hang dry for a few hours, and wear briefly while still damp to set creases.
* Line dry until fully dry.
* The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the fibers, and will rapidly subside with wear.
The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. The BUCKAROOS are designed with somewhat of a generous vintage silhouette in mind, and not intended to be worn tight. The leg is similar to our old Californian Lot.54 pattern. See the various silhouettes of the MF® Californians referenced in the family photo below.
I usually wear W32 in our Californian blue jeans but decided to go for a W31 in the BUCKAROOS, just personal preference with this particular model. The BUCKAROOS are still considered true-to-size, and whether you size down or go for your usual size is up to your desired silhouette.
As with all denim twills, but even more so with this particular ‘Okinawa’ sugarcane fiber denim, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements: Soaked = 60mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage.)
Please note that the awkward fit pic features a pair of BUCKAROOS straight-off the soak/dry process, unaltered and briefly worn just for the occasion.
 
DENIM CARE:
Wash denim jeans when needed. Hand-wash or machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive indigo contrasts, refrain from over-washing your jeans. Just enjoy the journey and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully!
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc FW2017
Made in USA
We are giving our original Ranch Blouse and classic Californian 5-pocket Blue Jeans a new handsome skin for Fall 2017, adding the updated version to our catalog of made-in-USA goodies, regrouped under MF® The SPORTSMAN label.
This fabric option is an old mfsc favorite, the mighty “Okinawa 301”, a ‘hairy’ 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, blend of 20% sugarcane fibers and 80% cotton, with a white/green line selvedge ID.
For the occasion, we also tricked-out our Californian LOT.64 by adding a rear cinch (aka buckle-back), thereby introducing yet another member to the Californian family, the LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” with its midnight blue flasher.
The “Okinawa” denim has enviable fading abilities and will progressively develop a desirable patina overtime, with normal wear/wash cycles.
However, it is less the denim type than the actual wearer that should be credited for amazing fade patterns, as demonstrated by the few jaw-dropping worn specimen of MF® Ranch Blouses sported by friends from Thailand, members of the Pronto Denim gang of workwear aficionados. See some examples below.
Not sure what this fine crew does to those jackets, but the results are incredible! Thank you for the commitment and support, Gentlemen. Don’t hesitate to submit a photo (hi-res) of your worn Ranch Blouse to sales@misterfreedom.com (with your full name for proper credit), we’ll happily add them to this gallery and our Mess of Blues line-up!
For more Instagram indigo adventures from the Land of Smiles, check out this denim squad (apologies if i didn’t get the names right):
Mr. Kang Chantrasri (Kan745)
Mr. Yuttapon (Yuttapon23)
Mr. Aticha Tragunthanan (aticha_acha)
Mr. Nueng (Nueng_n93), …
For more cool photos from this fine denimhead community, check out the Mister Freedom® Thailand Gang Facebook group.
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Denim Squad, Thailand. Photo courtesy Kang Chantrasri ©2017
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Ranch Blouse “Uncle Sam”
Photo courtesy Mr. Aticha Acha ©2016
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Ranch Blouse “Lot.64”
Photo courtesy Mr. Yuttapon Saynongkham © 2016
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Photo courtesy Mr. Kang Chantrasri ©2017
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Photo courtesy Mr. Yuttapon ©2017
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Ranch Blouse “Uncle Sam”
Photo courtesy Mr. Aticha Acha ©2016
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Photo courtesy Mr. Yuttapon ©2017
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Photo courtesy Mr. Nueng ©2017
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Denim Squad, Thailand.
Photo courtesy Mr. Nueng ©2017
The Californian LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” and Ranch Blouse “Okinawa”, which can be purchased separately, are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from selvedge denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS CALIFORNIAN LOT.64 BB “Okinawa”
FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301”, a hairy 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
POCKET BAGS:
VintageFrench New Old Stock (NOS) woven stripe workwear twill, 100% cotton.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* French vintage NOS stripe fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Unbranded natural cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with special 2016 Election red and white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (midnight blue).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear my usual Californian blue jeans W32 in the LOT.64 BB, for a comfortable fit.
The fit pix show a pair of W32, cold-soaked once, worn on/off for about 1 week, with some more shrinkage/stretching down the line.
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Retail $329.95
SPECS RANCH BLOUSE “Okinawa”
FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301”, a hairy 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
FACING:
French vintage New Old Stock (NOS) woven stripe workwear twill, 100% cotton.
DETAILS:
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* French vintage NOS stripe workwear twill facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Metal cast MF® branded buttons, ‘oxidized’.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer.
* Combination yellow/orange 100% cotton stitching.
* Original mfsc printed cloth label.
* Made in USA
SIZING FIT:
The Ranch Blouse “Okinawa” comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in the “Okinawa” version, a cold-soaked 38. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail $379.95
DENIM CARE:
Wash denim jeans and jackets when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017
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