The Mister Freedom® Ranger Shirt, Powerloom edition. NOS authentic Indian Madras Made in USA
Initially released in 2016, our NOS vintage madras MF® Ranger Shirts have been popular with heritage-style connoisseurs and textile designers alike. The manufacturing journey was extensively documented here.
This is the final batch than needed to be photographed to complete our inventory, taking the number of options for the MF® madras Ranger Shirt pattern to a staggering one hundred and some lots! With vintage fashion, Vive la Difference!
Mister Freedom® Topsiders, NOS OD HBT (New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill) Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017 Made in USA
NOS OD HBT utes?
You no dig dat GI Jive, Jack? Alreeeet.
“P-F-C to the C-P-L to the S-G-T to the L-T C-P the O-D the M-P makes ya do K-P…”
The MF® “Topsiders” pattern was first introduced during our Spring 2014 mfsc “Sea Hunt” collection.
The style was adapted from the familiar WW2 US Navy wrap-leg denim dungarees models. Originally released in the illustrious “Okinawa 301”, a Fall version followed in a special “Marine Nationale” denim twill, both made in Japan at the time.
For Fall 2017, we decided to add the popular Topsiders pattern to our Sportsman catalog, and release a made-in-USA edition cut from vintage New Old Stock fabric, a fine lot of crisp 100% cotton Olive Drab Herringbone Twill. Somewhat similar to the Buzz Rickson’s replica fabric inspired by 1940’s USMC utilities, our NOS textile is in a bit darker shade of green (kinda OG Shade 7 meets OG-107), and features a slightly lighter ounce. Our OD HBT is a bit heavier than the khaki HBT Sportsman Chinos released for Spring 2017, for those familiar with that NOS textile.
High-waisted and full-legged, with a nice drape, our HBT Topsiders are designed with a vintage 1940’s military dungarees silhouette in mind, not yoga leggings.
The MF® Topsiders OD HBT edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Note: Production of the MF® Topsiders come without stencil/perso ID.
SPECS: FABRIC: Crispy 100% cotton New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill.
DETAILS: * Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams). * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functioning rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman green inside chainstitch accent. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® HBT Topsiders come raw/unwashed. A low-maintenance garment, we recommend an initial cold wash, full agitation, heat dryer. Once washed and dried, the HBT fabric will fully reveal its attractive texture. This process will also emphasize the subtle puckering of the seams/stitching, a commun characteristic of vintage workwear. I opted for a size 32, with a generous waist and full silhouette. I adjusted the back strap strap, fully cinching it. I could squeeze in a Waist 30, but, with this model, subjectively preferred the wide leg and comfortable silhouette of the Waist 32.
Please refer to the chart for approximate measurements. (Raw & fully rinsed and dried)
CARE: The MF® Topsiders NOS OD HBT are low-maintenance.
Machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry or tumble dry.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist x Length: 28 x 34 30 x 34 32 x 34 34 x 34 36 x 36 38 x 36 RETAIL $289.95
Mister Freedom® Sportsman Chinos, New Old Stock Khaki HBT Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2017. Made in USA
We pulled out the pattern of our original 2013 Sportsman Chinos from the vaults, previously issued in Beach Chino Twill, Indigo cotton-linen Métisse, OD Mil-Specs Cotton Sateen, …, to release a Spring 2017 version in a handsome recently-acquired New Old Stock khaki twill with a fine herringbone weave.
Unlike the slender 1960’s silhouette of the Mister Freedom® Continental Trousers series, the Sportsman Chinos pattern features a fuller leg, reminiscent of vintage 1940’s-50’s cotton twill work pants.
For the pocket bags, we opted for a fancy NOS woven striped cotton twill, of EU origin.
NOTE: Above photos show a hemmed pair, with a simple traditional 1½ inch fold. Production comes un-hemmed, with an open/overlocked bottom, for your personal cuffing preference.
Also featured, veg-tan VEB belt crafted by the one-and-only John ‘Vintage Engineer Boots‘ V.
The Sportsman Chinos are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by vintage 1940’s-50’s cotton twill work pants.
Khaki herringbone twill, light weight, New Old Stock, 100% cotton, Country of Origin unknown.
Pocket bags: NOS woven striped twill, 100% cotton milled in EU.
* Relaxed vintage silhouette and fit.
* Button fly, brown corozo wood buttons.
* Flat-felled side seams.
* Welt-type rear pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, French vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* New Old Stock 100% cotton twill pocket bags, green woven stripe.
* Watch pocket.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, green inside chainstich “MF® Sportsman” signature.
* Crotch gusset.
* MF® “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on waist band, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an initial cold wash, delicate cycle, and line dry. These trousers are true-to-size, with a ‘forgiving’ waist, adjustable via the rear cinch. Go for your usual size in mfsc garments, but consider that the full leg and higher rise will provide an old school vintage work pants silhouette. These will not work for the tight pants contemporary fashionista.
With a generous inseam, the overlocked leg opening is left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch fold, regular single needle machine stitch, flood length.
Please refer to the size chart for raw/rinsed measurements.
CARE: These cotton twill pants are low-maintenance. Machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry or tumble dry.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 Open inseam:36~37 inches (rinsed)
Here is the final installement (5 of 5) of Mister Freedom® latest Collection entitled “American Sportswear”. Introducing the CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans, Lot.44
Same drill than with the Ranch Blouse, we have selected some New Old Stock selvedge denim from our archives to make the Californian Lot.44
Cut and sew has been a challenge, as previously mentioned, but we are happy with the results. One “five pocket” pattern in about 35 different denim… 28” to 33” width old shuttle loom made selvedge denim, collected throughout years of warehouses digging. Origin Japan and USA. Click on scan below for approximate colors and selvedge IDs
The pattern of the Californian Lot.44 is very similar to that of the Californian Lot.54, with a few design modifications:
* PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans.
* FABRICS: The assorted New Old Stock selvedge denim limited edition is only available at the MF® Beverly Blvd location, and at “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney Blvd.,Venice, CA 90291, USA, phone 310-314-2101).
* Lot.44 vs. Lot.54 DETAILS: The Lot.44 has an added back cinch strap, longer inseam, yellow “M” pocket and side stitching, different fabric pocket bags.
* POCKETING: 100% cotton NOS stripe ticking denim. Some bag bags are made with indigo/white plaid twill. Random.
* FIT: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
These blue jeans are NOT skinnies, as we don’t dig the ‘men in tights’ or “girlfriend’s jeans” thingy.
* CONSTRUCTION: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Riveted back pockets with ‘zigzag flush’ stitching. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* STITCHING: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow, non colorfast.
* TRIMS: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* LABELING: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* PACKAGING: In the USA, the Californian Lot.44 comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
* SHRINKAGE: All fabrics are RAW and unwashed. Due to the assorted denim, shrinkage is all over the place. Please refer to chart below, where we shrink tested some of the jeans (cold soak for about 30mn, no agitation. Turned imside out and machine dryed for about 20mn, until 80% dried). Measurements are approximate.
Please don’t BOIL your jeans, as you will alter the color of the denim and ruin the leather patch.
The Californian Lot.44 comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage (more or less).
Example: A tagged W32 x L36 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 38” before wash. Some denim will shrink to approx. 32” x 36” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit, so you can size up or down. WASHING: To each his own, but we recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed. Available tagged Sizes: W30 × L34 W31 × L36 W32 × L36 W33 × L36 W34 × L36 W36 × L36 W38 × L36 (see “Shrinkage” section above for the low-down) Retail $289.95
The Made in USA “Ranch Blouse”NOS is in… Yippee-ki-Yay 😉
Our MFSC Ranch Blouse is an homage to the denim jacket models that have been covering Americans’ backs for over 100 years.
No wheel reinvented here, just our humble version of that ‘closet must-have’.
Pull out the ol’ Texas Tuxedo or mix it with chinos, slacks… or our Speedway jeans… as you know it’s a pretty versatile garment.
Now, on production: To make things more challenging (why do easy when you can do complicated?) we decided to have the US prod of that jacket made of New Old Stock assorted denims from our archives. It did sound like a good idea at first 😉
Turns out, it has been a real challenge for the factory, and a real headache to control and process… No one has done it this way before (not boasting, just warning others!), and there is a reason for that: it’s brutal.
There is no way to describe the individual fabrics, nor to figure out the exact Oz. The above scan is an approximate reference for selvedge ID’s and shades of colors (although the scan makes some denim look more ‘black’ that in reality.) Ya ready?
SPECS: PATTERN: MFSC pattern, an homage to the pioneer denim brands… FABRICS: All 100% cotton NOS selvedge assorted raw denims, different origins, USA and Japan
Most options are indigo blue denim, but a few other colors are also available such as NOS Black (lighter Oz.), Brown, Stripe Twill (aka Rodeo Blouse)… DETAILS:
* Original 30’s style ’round collar’, with under layer zigzag stitching.
* Double unbalanced front pocketing.
* Original Mister Freedom “oxydized” metal buttons.
* Cinch back strap, with NOS metal prong buckle.
* Front expansion pleats, when the belly just can’t take it anymore.
* Copper rivet pocket and cuffs reinforcement, backed by leather washer.
* Button panel fold showing original denim selvedge ID on the inside of the jacket. PACKAGING: In the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use. SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Measurements in below chart are approximate because there are always slight variations in measuring a bulky surface.
There is ONE pattern grading for each size. Shrinkage is specific to each denim, and we will soon do rinse tests on groupings of 50+ yards and will try to post a % for some of the groupings. We anticipate an average shrinkage of most RAW denims from 3% to 8%, depending on water temperature, drying method and textiles specifics. Proportionally, there is often more noticeable shrinkage in length than width with RAW denim. Also, there will be natural minimal stretching back and forth with subsequent wear/rinse…
We recommend an original 10 mn cold soak, no agitation, spin dry, ‘wear to shape’ and line drying.
FIT PHOTOS: I am wearing a size 38, on/off for about 6 months. One original rinse.
NOTE: The worn jacket in some of the shots is for reference only. This is NOT how the “Ranch Blouse” comes out of the box. It is only sold RAW/unwashed in the USA, so you can, not only start your own natural fading/wearing process, but do the right thing for our rivers by NOT purchasing factory chemically pre-distressed garments.
Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.
Available RAW/Unwashed Sizes: 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 Retail: $299.95
Call the store at (323) 653-2014 or mail firstname.lastname@example.org to get yours while they last.
We ship internationally.
We thank you for your support. You are the champions, my friends 😉
November 4th, 2011 | 3 comments - (Comments are closed)