Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, indigo linen-cotton HBT & 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition, mfsc SS2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model A: 7.7 Oz. indigo linen-cotton HBT.

LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model B: 10 Oz. “Snow” denim.

Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, indigo linen-cotton HBT & 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.

We took a stroll down memory lane and rigged-up a small capsule collection for Spring 2020, with references harking back to our earliest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co fictional scenario, the 2006 “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”. This concise “Waterfront Surplus” nautical grouping is inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, local-made and custom-tailored dungarees, with the usual liberties we like to take with History. This straight-forward and classic set is made of the DOCKYARD Jacket, LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, and SWABBIES Dungarees.

Following the recent release of the DOCKYARD Jacket in indigo linen-cotton HBT and “snow” denim, here is Volume Two, the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, available in the same two fabric options.

The overall design of this pull-over “jumper” shirt is lifted from a rare 1940s vintage naval denim work shirt produced by the “Gus Kroesen Uniform” label. Established in 1907, and with branches in Seattle, San Francisco and Honolulu, the Gus Kroesen stores have supplied generations of men of the sea with outstanding custom uniforms.
According to a 1924 article of the San Pedro News Pilot, Gus Kroesen, naval and civilian tailor and haberdasher, with a very attractive and well-stocked store at 335 Front street, San Pedro, served for fourteen years as a ship’s tailor in the U.S. Navy.” (quote credit California Digital Newspaper Collection, Center for Bibliographic Studies and Research, University of California, Riverside.)
Today, surviving vintage specimen of Gus Kroesen naval dungarees are quite rare and sought-after by collectors.

The Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt features most of the design specifics of the vintage original, the jumper style pattern (aka pop-over), half zipper front closure placket, and three utilitarian patch pockets.
One of the striking details of the Gus Kroesen shirt was the unusual use of the fabric grain in construction. Classic shirt bodies tend to be cut using straight grain (displaying the warp threads vertically), but our vintage jumper featured vertical cross grain. I have seen a few of these private-purchase naval dungaree jumpers from various makers, and this is typical of that style. The purpose was to maximize yield and minimize fabric waste, using the selvedge in the bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold. As a side effect, the combination of grain directions will result in interesting seam puckering, peculiar garment drape, and potential attractive “striped” patina over time.

If our indigo HBT fabric is non-selvedge, both LONGSHOREMAN options are cut using the same grain cutting method, promising some interesting fading evolution in both fabrics.
To add a little twist à la MF®, we decided to add a classic period detail in the form of a narrow chin strap, and a practical concealed chest pocket.

The LONGSHOREMAN Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Model A: 7.7 Oz. dark indigo-dyed Herringbone Twill (HBT) fabric, blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton. Milled in Japan.
Model B: 10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1930s-40s custom-made private purchase naval dungarees and shipyard crews work clothing.
* Pull-over style “jumper” pattern.
* Half zipper closure placket, 30s/40s-style bell-shaped pull “silver” Talon zipper, 100% cotton tape. (use caution when fastening, as these vintage-style zippers are more delicate than modern versions with polyester tape. Lubricate the metal teeth with natural beeswax occasionally.)
* Fabric cut using vertical cross grain for body and sleeves, displaying the warp horizontally.
* Selvedge displayed in bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold (denim version only.)
* Three front utilitarian patch pockets.
* Concealed chest pocket, stripe ticking fabric.
* Clean chainstitch construction, no open seams.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc woven rayon “SURPLUS” label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

Due to the 100% cotton stitching and specific grain cutting method, attractive puckering will show at the seams after the soak, giving the garment more of a vintage feel. The denim version will be stiffer after the initial soak due to the re-activated starch, but the stiffness is temporary and will subside rapidly with wear.
I opted for a comfortable 38 (MEDIUM) in both fabric options, both with a similar fit but different drape. The silhouette is quite slim yet comfortable enough not to make pulling the shirt on/off an excruciating task. According to body types, the cut will accommodate layering with a skivvy or classic Nixon chambray.
We recommend going with your usual mfsc shirt size.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CHART

Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. For both options, we recommend turning the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt inside out, fully zipped-up, to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small (indigo HBT only)
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC “Midnight” P-JACKET

P-Jacket-Full

MFSC “Midnight” P-JACKET, Fall 2010

OK. It’s about time to drop this bomb. Latest and last piece of the MFSC Fall 2010 Collection to hit the ground, closing the  “our sailor buddied up with our motor-cycle riders” concept ( Naval Clothing Tailor meets Speed Safe Clothing)… One of the easiest jacket to wear ever, with dungarees, chinos etc…No fear of the “Texas Tuxedo” dilemma, since the “midnight twill” fabric doesn’t look anything like ‘regular’ denim twill.
Here she goes:

SPECS:
PATTERN
: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by early 1910’s -1920’s USN and US Coast Guard Melton wool Peacoats
FABRIC: Body: Coarse weave 16 oz indigo “black back denim” twill (indigo warp x black weft), aka “Midnight Twill”. 100% cotton. White ID selvedge. Woven in Japan, exclusive MFSC. Indigo bleeding to be expected and anticipated. The white core of the indigo yarn will surface with proper wear and will give amazing patina to the coat over time. All kinds of blues!
LINING: Inner full lining, 10 oz. plain weave indigo/natural white woven cloth, all cotton, woven in Japan
CLOSURE: 10 button front, USN style early “13 Star” buttons. Full front closure with collar up and throat latch for windy deck conditions.
POCKETS: Two outside slash “hand warmer” pockets and two flap pockets (all lined with 100% cotton wide wale corduroy). Inside chest pocket and “cigarette” pocket. The flaps are made from lighter 10 oz. “black back denim” with royal blue selvedge ID.
STITCHING: All cotton thread stitching, ‘oxydized faded’ black colour.
DETAILS: Owner’s own identification wide white sheeting neck label, ready for perso ID stenciling (a detail from early French military gear), back selvedge vent, concealed detachable throat latch under collar, ZigZag stand collar reinforcement stitching…

CLEANING: Can be hand rinsed with cold water and minimal soap,  dry-cleanable. Extended wear and abuse recommended before washing is considered, to maximize patina over time.
SHRINKAGE: With full washing/drying (again, not recommended, fabric will ‘marble’ with strong machine wash-cycle), a FULL size shrinkage is expected.

NOTE: The photos of the P-Jacket above are of a USED and worn coat. It was worn on/off for about 3-4 months, from raw condition… I just sprayed it with water early on, wore it until dry, to get some kind of minimal shrinkage in length and some fabric ‘twist’. I usually wear a 38, but sized down to a 36 since i wanted to wear this raw and never wash it.

The production MFSC P-Jackets are RAW and NOT distressed.

Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in japan by SUGAR CANE Co.

Available RAW
(unwashed)
Sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail $895.95

Call the store at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.

Catch ’em raw, Treat ’em rough…

MFSC 189md, Mister Freedom x Sugar Cane CPO denim Shirt

MFSC 189md, Mister Freedom x Sugar Cane CPO denim Shirt

A tired MFSC 189md denim CPO shirt, modified “Liberty Issue”, ready for a cold shower…

Still a few unissued CPO’s available at the Mister Freedom ® store in Hollywood, CA.
Call Katherine or Jared at (323) 653-2014 for availability and to get yours internationally shipped to your front door, from Sunny California!

(Un-issued. Size Xs, S, M, L, XL, XXL. Retail $ 389.95)