Mister Freedom® N-1H Deck Jacket, “Burnt Umber” Jungle Cloth, FW2019 mfsc SURPLUS collection, made in Japan.

USN sailors circa 1943, wearing a mix bag of Type I & II N-1 Deck Jackets. (©Mister Freedom® vintage archives.)

Mister Freedom® mfsc Type N-1H Deck Jackets evolution (©2008 – ©2019)

Mister Freedom® Type N-1H Deck Jacket, “Burnt Umber” jungle cloth edition.
FW2019 mfsc  “Surplus” Collection

This release will be the sixth Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane spin on the iconic Government-issued naval N-1 foul weather “Deck Jacket” pattern, familiar to all vintage clothing collectors.

First, a bit of rambling about fashion, timeline, etc…
This might sound like a no-brainer in well-informed heritage fashion circles today, but there was some confusion following the release of our ‘fictional’ Type N-1H (H was for hook front): our deck jacket interpretation, not intended as a replica, never existed as a USN-issued garment.
It hit the US market during Fall 2008, as part of the “Naval Clothing Tailor” mfsc collection.
We had not reinvented the helm (see what i did there), simply blended genuine post-1943 USN N-1 models, combining features and periods, fully embracing all the new ‘toys’ recently made-available to us by our friends at Buzz Rickson’s. This all morphed into a somewhat original “might-have-been” jacket.
That first edition 2008 N-1H featured navy blue jungle cloth, knit collar and cuffs, teardrop “D” pockets, hook-front wind flap and front zipper closure, draw string bottom, navy blanket lining. MF® OGs will remember it as the ‘noisy one’, because of the crinkly inner organdy windproof layer. This jacket is barely documented on this blog, and even missing from our online store.
For those into that kind of stuff, some efforts at a chronological MF® mfsc archive are being made here, at the phenomenal rate of about three entries every four years.

We followed-up with a “Troy” blanket-lined modified version during Fall 2010, the Type N-1H md, merely updating the USN wool blanket lining to a civvy wool striped workwear classic. For the anecdote, if  Troy blankets were to become all the rage in heritage fashion a few years later, vintage USN deck coats were already so popular that J.Crew, then under Mickey Drexler‘s vision and branding make-over, picked up some of our inventory to spice-up their menswear catalog. I believe that Todd Snyder, then head of Men’s Design at J.Crew, and one of MF®’s earliest corporate repeat customer, harking back to early days of yours truly schlepping old rags at the Rosebowl circa 1995, was the instigator of that connection. Cheers Todd.

In 2014, the “Sea Hunt” collection featured yet another twist on the Deck Jacket pattern, the Blouson de Quart, in mil-specs khaki jungle cloth, our first time using vintage-style USN alpaca lining and round style collar. The original Fall 2014 blog post features some old French Marine Nationale photos that inspired this version. The Blouson de Quart is somewhat of a MF® N-1H Type II.

During Fall 2016, an indigo-dyed jungle cloth version of the Blouson de Quart, along with a black jungle cloth version of the N-1H Type I pattern were released, celebrating ten years of driving the talented folks at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprise, Japan) berserk.

For Fall 2019, our N-1H Deck jacket pattern makes a come back in a new Type I hybrid rendition. We thought of calling back on deck the classic color of our original mfsc Mulholland Master, a warm shade of brown we’re naming “Burnt Umber“, because it sounds fabulous.  The collar style is reverted to the original 1940’s USN Deck Jacket knit type. The fluffy chocolate brown alpaca lining should keep your upper body toasty in most of Antartica. The jacket’s timeless style should keep you cool for most of the 21st Century.

The FW2019 mfsc N-1H Deck Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS
FABRIC:
Shell: Tight weave 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, original mfsc umber brown color, milled in Japan.
Lining: Warm, non-itchy, soft-touch wool pile alpaca full lining, chocolate brown color, vintage mil-specs.

DETAILS:
* An original MF® hybrid design, freely inspired by 1940’s-1960’s vintage US Navy and French Marine Nationale foul weather Type N-1 Deck Jackets, issued to embarked enlisted personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON “bell” zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks.
* Full lining, vintage USN-style chocolate brown wool pile alpaca.
* 1940’s type collar style, 100% wool knit collar and cuffs, contrast navy blue color.
* Drawstring cinch bottom.
* Original teardrop hand-warmer “D” pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread hi-count stitching.
* No outside “military” markings/ornements.
* “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” woven rayon label, 2008 style.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The FW2019 N-1H Deck Jacket is ready-to-go as-is. It is a dry-cleaning ONLY garment and does not require any pre-soaking.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. I opted for a size 38, my usual size in mfsc N-1H and most other mfsc jackets, with enough room for a thick shirt of heavy sweater underneath. Like most ready-to-wear garments not made from stretch fabric or cut as a poncho pattern, our N-1H might not satisfy everyone’s body type configurations. In general, the consensus is to go with your usual size in mfsc jackets for our N-1H models.
We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to the sizing chart and remember that measurements are taken from the outside of the fabric. The lining is about ¼ inch thick, which reduces the inside room by that much. Please consider this when sizing from the charts measurements.

CARE:
Professional dry-clean only, in your local eco-friendly dry-cleaning facility. For dirt or minor water-based stain, spot clean with a clean, damp sponge.
Please DO NOT attempt to machine-wash this jacket in a home washing machine, as this specific N-1H weighs like a dead mule when wet. You risk ruining both machine and jacket, the metal hooks will get snagged, the jungle cloth shell will get marbling marks etc…

Available RAW (un-rinsed)
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc Collection preview: “Pioupiou” (JP), “Surplus” (JP) and “Sportsman” (USA).

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc collection.

FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, indigo HBT cotton/linen.

FW2019 MF® “Le Vaillant”, indigo HBT cotton/linen.

FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, SC 401 Hawaii denim.

FW2019 “Le Vaillant” Pants, SC 401 Hawaii denim.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, blue dobby stripe.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, white dobby stripe.

FW2019 MF® “Musette” mf7161 (Sportsman)

FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, ticking.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, indigo linen.

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc collection.

FW2019 MF® “Mattock” Jacket, corduroy.

FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, rust.

FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, Prussian Blue.

FW2019 MF® “N-1H” Deck Jacket, brown Jungle Cloth.

FW2019 MF® “Tonkinoise”, double indigo.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas. DIY beeswax-treated prototype.

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog, Fall/Winter 2019 (made in USA)

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog additions.

FFW2019 MF® “Baloo” Black edition, black tea-core cowhide..

FW2019 MF® Californian” Lot.54BB, NOS Cone Mills denim.

 

FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse” and “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse”, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Speedways”, NOS ‘beatnik green’ corduroy.

FW2019 MF® “Campus” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ edition, black tea-core cowhide.

FW2019 MF® “Sportsman Chinos”, NOS 2×1 denim.

 

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc collections.

Our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall/Winter 2019 contribution to the world of Menswear fashion this up-coming season will consist of three groupings, FW2019PIOUPIOU”, “SURPLUS” and “SPORTSMAN”.

The “PIOUPIOU” collection is our 2019 theme-based capsule collection.
The obsolete term “Pioupiou” was a happy-go-lucky nickname given to French soldiers heading out to the frontlines on the onset of WW1. As the “Great War” (1914-1918) dragged on, and trenches of the Western Front revealed their terrifying reality, the sobriquet quickly changed to “POILU” (literally ‘hairy’), ’tough guy’ or badass in period jargon…
Our collection is loosely inspired by French military-issued garb of the 1910’s to the 1930’s. It blends period utility uniforms and revisited vintage civilian attire into contemporary wearables, following the usual MF® “might have been” design approach.
The FW2019 “PIOUPIOU” line-up, all garments produced in Japan, will consists of:
1) “MECANO” Jacket:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” selvedge denim.
2) Pantalon “LE VAILLANT”:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” denim.
3) Chemise “POILU”:
* 100% cotton blue sateen/popeline dobby stripe
* 100% cottonwhite sateen/HBT dobby stripe.
4) Chemise “M-35”:
* 100% indigo Linen plain weave.
* 100% cotton indigo stripe ticking, 4.5 Oz.

The SURPLUS” collection, our twist on classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, produced in Japan, will consist of:
1) “MATTOCK” Jacket:
Heavy Corduroy, camel color, 14 Oz., with “Troy Blanket” lining.
2) “MULHOLLAND DRIZZLE-KING” Jacket:
100% cotton “Cachou” Brown canvas, 13 Oz.
Also shown on the photos is a DIY beeswax-treated prototype.
3) “TRAILBLAZER” Shirt:
100% cotton Brushed Sateen, Rust color or Prussian blue.
4) N-1H Deck Jacket:
100% cotton Jungle Cloth, 14 Oz., “Mulholland” brown.
5) “TONKINOISE” Shirt:
“Gunslinger” double indigo selvedge twill, 12.4 Oz.

The SPORTSMAN” collection, our on-going catalog of classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, made in USA, will consist of:
1) “BALOO” Jacket, Black Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, brushed cotton flannel lining.
2) “RANCH BLOUSE” Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
3) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.64 Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
4) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 Buckle Back:
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. selvedge indigo denim.
5) “SPEEDWAYS” Jeans:
NOS 100% cotton corduroy, “beatnik” green.
6) “CAMPUS” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, unlined.
7) “SPORTSMAN CHINOS” Frontier:
NOS 10.5 Oz. 2×1 rigid denim.
8) “GI” HENLEY”:
NOS indigo rib knit, 100% cotton.
9) “MUSETTE” MF 7161: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS waxed canvas, navy blue, chainstitch.
10) JD “SCUTTLER” Cap: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS French workwear woven stripe, 100% cotton.

Voila!

Drop dates for these FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc pieces should start beginning August 2019, as production in ethically-operated Japan and USA factories completes.
Each garment will be fully documented on this blog at the time of release, and the whole line-up will be available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store. A selection of mfsc FW2019 will also be available from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you very much for your support.
Sincerely,

Christophe LOIRON
MF®
©2019

Mister Freedom Type N-1H Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth edition, Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

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n1h-deck-jacket-2

n1h-deck-jacket-6

n1h-deck-jacket-1

n1h-deck-jacket-9

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Mister Freedom® Type N-1H mfsc Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth edition
Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

We are dropping another heavy hitter this season, a foul weather contender in the Fall 2016 Anniversary Collection celebrating ten years of fun collaborations with our friends at Sugar Cane Co and Buzz Rickson’s (Toyo Enterprises).
This jacket will be our fifth iteration of the iconic military naval “Deck Jacket”, now-familiar to heritage fashion circles. Check out the MF® chronological timeline, summarized while introducing the indigo version of our “Blouson De Quart” (a reference to the French Marine Nationale deck jacket).

This N-1H Anniversary issue is a nod to our original model, released in 2008 during the early nautical adventures of the MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” collection. Our first N-1H (the added H was for hook), issued in navy blue jungle cloth and wool blanket-lined, was a hybrid of several Government-issued foul weather jackets. Its design mixed periods and specs of vintage 1940’s and 50’s US Navy deck jackets, sought-after collectibles today.

The Fall 2016 edition of the Type N-1H Deck Jacket’s specs are similar to those of its 2008 predecessor. One stand-out difference is the shell color. We opted for a black 100% cotton grow grain jungle cloth, complimented by an attractive heather dark navy blue wool lining. This soft-hand lining (a non-itchy blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon) is backed by an inner rayon fabric layer, a reference to the crunchy wax-coated organdy layer of early USN deck jackets. Please note that we went for a ‘quieter’ wind-proofing material for this issue, as the crinkly noise of our 2008 model tended to interfere with sound mix on movie sets!

The 2016 N1-H performs pretty much as its predecessors did, i.e. appropriate for moderately-cold weather. We wanted an in-between season garment with this deck jacket, rather than a full-on winter coat such as the recently-released alpaca-lined indigo Blouson De Quart.
According to your tolerance level of cold temperatures, the black N-1H might not be a good choice for prolonged exposure to extreme winter conditions while in the field. There are better options out there if you’re planning to take on the Everest. However, with appropriate layering, you’ll be fine for chilly winter evenings in California and under other mild temperate climates.

On a side note, if I personally plan on leaving my indigo Blouson de Quart as-is and let a natural indigo color patina develop over time, I might wax my black N-1H in the near future, for partial waterproofing and for the rather interesting resulting leathery effect.

blouson-de-quart-waxed

Waxed MF® khaki Blouson de Quart, 2014.

The Type N-1H Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth issue, 2016 mfsc Anniversary edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS
FABRIC:

* Shell: Solid 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, black 100% cotton grosgrain fabric, period mil-specs, milled in Japan.
* Body Inner Lining: 100% rayon fabric wind-proofing concealed layer.
* Lining: Soft hand, non-itchy blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon fabric.

DETAILS:
* Freely inspired by 1940’s-1950’s vintage US Navy foul weather-type deck jackets issued to enlisted naval personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks.
* Full lining, soft-hand wool/nylon blend.
* ‘Silent’ inner wind-proofing layer, 100% rayon fabric.
* 100% wool knit collar and cuffs, navy blue color.
* Cinch-string bottom.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Underarm ventilating eyelets.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Limited Ten Year Anniversary Edition.
* Double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven labels.
* No outside military markings.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
We had these jackets professionally rinsed. NOT distressed, but gently rinsed and tumble-dried. No shrinkage guessing.
Our black edition N-1H is pre-shrunk, and true to size. I wear a comfortable 38 in this coat, with room for a thick shirt or wool sweater underneath.
Like most ready-to-wear garments not made from stretch fabric or cut as a poncho, our N-1H might not satisfy everyone’s body type expectations. In general, the consensus is to go with your usual size in mfsc jackets.
We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric.

n1h-deck-jacket

CARE:
Please DO NOT attempt to wash this jacket in a home washing machine! You risk ruining both machine and jacket. The N1-H weights quite a bit when wet, the metal hooks will get snagged, the black jungle cloth fabric will get marbling marks etc…
IMPORTANT: Treat your zipper as you would a vintage one, rub wax to lubricate at times, and use common sense rather that brute force to zip and unzip, making sure tabs line-up when zipping.
Activities and frequency of wear will obviously dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning, or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner. This jacket can also be hand-washed in a tub filled with cold water. Use eco-friendly detergent for delicate colors. Hang to dry.

Available rinsed/pre-shrunk.
Sizes
36
Small
38
Medium
40
Large
42
X-Large
44
XX-Large
Retail $799.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016

Mister Freedom® MFSC Deck Jacket Type N-1H “Troy” Issue

MFSC Deck Jacket Troy issue "N-1Hmd"

N-1-H-md-(2)N1Htroy-(2) N1Htroy-(4) N1Htroy-(5) N1Htroy-(6)

We figured it was the perfect 92  degree day here in sunny Los Angeles to be dropping the 2010 MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE MFSC Fall line!
We’ll start heavy with our modified type N-1H “Troy” Deck Jacket. We re-issued that winner because we can’t get enough of it…

SPECS:
* PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern inspired by 1940’s US Navy deck gear, combining elements of early deck jackets, MFSC way.
* FABRIC: 14 oz. all cotton “jungle cloth”, originally developed for the US Navy for its sturdiness/softness/strength/protection qualities while at sea under harsh conditions. Milled to exact 1940’s US Mil specs. Navy Colour. All wool knit cuffs and stand up collar.
* LINING: Reprocessed wool “Troy” blanket, stripe.
* TRIMS: Silver “Hookless” zipper and black metal USN hook clasps closing the wind flap.
* INNER LAYER: An original 1940’s US Navy issued gear feature, a cotton ‘organdy’ wax coated layer, for wind proofing (the creaking noise will disappear after a few days of wear)
* Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® , manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.

Available one rinse
Size 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail $869.95

Call John at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.