The CDO Jacket, Melton wool x indigo twill combo, Saigon Cowboy Fall 2015




And a free bowl of soup to the first reader who notices the upside down woven label on this early sample. Shipping not included.





Mister Freedom® at 7161 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036, USA (Photo Tadashi Tawarayama 2015)

Mister Freedom® HQ at 7161 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036, USA. (Photo Tadashi Tawarayama 2015)

CDO Jacket, Melton wool x indigo cotton twill combo
Saigon Cowboy Fall 2015

Following the recent release of the Mister Freedom® Caban Peacoat, and pushing further up the meanders of our Saigon Cowboy arroyos, here is a new number out of the bush: the ‘CDO Jacket’.

CDO stands for Commando, a respectful reference to Commandos Marine, the famed elite assault troops of the French Navy.
During France’s involvement in the Indochina War, mid-40’s to 1954, several Commandos Marine (Commando François, de Montfort, Jaubert, Tempête and Ouragan) joined forces with South Vietnamese troops on numerous operations from the Gulf of Siam to the Gulf of Tonkin. Whether navigating South China Sea waters, maneuvering Tonkin and Cochinchina waterways, or joining riverine operations around Annam deltas with the Divisons Navales d’Assaut (DINASSAUT), the Fusiliers Marins et Commandos (FUSCO) played a very active role from the early stages of the conflict. These commandos were composed of both supplétifs (enrolled pro-French Indochinese nationals) and CEFEO troops from continental France.

For units assigned to Fleuve (Brown-water Navy) or Mer (blue-water Navy), deployments involved all kinds of fun tropical aquatic activities such as exhilarating adventures in leech-infested and mosquito-ridden mangrove. Cruising aboard US-made landing craft vessels recycled from WW2, or rudimentary river patrol Swift Boat-type precursors, many of these French commandos never reached the end of their 18-month tour.
Due to field isolation, some of these units were left to their own fate and judgement, often pictured sporting eclectic outfits more adapted to local conditions and personal preferences than showing concern for strict military regulations.

For those with a yen for vivid military slang, brown-water French sailors, ‘marins en kaki’ in Indochina, were poetically nicknamed ‘chie dans l’eau” by their airborne or infantry counterparts. ‘Dans l’eau’ translates to ‘in the water’. The verb is for you to guess.

In subsequent years, in and about Vietnam’s 12,000 miles of coastal terrain, American soldiers would in turn be instructed to board all kinds of riverine crafts, some actually inherited from the French flotillas, and confront the same Viet Minh (Vietnamese independentists) enemy, relabelled Viet Cong (Vietnamese communists) to better celebrate the pursuit of the Cold War festivities…

Vintage photos courtesy of this Commandos Marine homage website.
Landing Ship Tank photo courtesy of this website.

Back on point.
Our ‘CDO Jacket’ is by no means a replica of 50’s French Indochina military gear, but instead a product of our questionable imagination. It mixes influences from different armies and periods, in order to create a wearable garment suitable for a peaceful 2015 bateau-mouche cruise. This jacket is the result of combining several vintage goodies in the MF® shaker: British Battledress, 1940’s US Army denim utility jacket, 1950’s French tenue de sortie (dress uniform) jackets, outdoor navy CPO-type civvy garments…

If the general pattern of the ‘CDO Jacket’ is adapted from our Spring 2015 denim Utility Jacket, the shell fabric we opted for is new to MFSC. This textured woven woolen fabric is reminiscent of 1960’s-70’s Melton wool CPO navy shirts, the common civilian kind we are all familiar with, featuring the classic black plastic anchor buttons. This fabric is different from the dense Kersey-type wool of early peacoats, or from the wool serge of typical 1940’s battledress/Ike jackets. It is more loosely woven, without the softer brushed finish, and with the woven pattern clearly visible from both sides.

‘Black’ indigo is an important feature of Vietnam’s indigenous Degar People traditional attire, both men and women, in the form of dark loincloth, sarongs… Seemingly out of left field but as a subtle Montagnard reference , we have combined our navy blue woven wool fabric with the 16 Oz. indigo warp x black weft twill of our Caban Peacoat, in contrasting textures but blending colors. The two chest pockets, underarm gussets, and more importantly the collar top part, are all cut from that indigo cotton twill. The rest of the body is made of Melton-type wool. Those allergic to wool will appreciate the ‘CDO jacket’ collar not rubbing their neck.

To add another layer of historical references, our ‘CDO Jacket’ is fully lined with Buzz Rickson’s 100% cotton twill, printed with TSP (Tadpole Sparse Pattern) gold tiger stripe camouflage, the same fabric featured on the MF® Tiger Board Shorts.

Oh, and because we have way too much time on our hands, we also thought of hand-dyeing corozo wood buttons in our Mickey Mouse indigo vat, creating quite an impression in the neighborhood.

The ‘CDO Jacket’ is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.


Shell: Combination 100% wool, Melton-type, textured weave and 100% cotton twill, 16 Oz. indigo warp x black weft with white selvedge ID. Both fabrics are milled in Japan.
Lining: Buzz Rickson’s 100% cotton twill, printed with TSP (Tadpole Sparse Pattern) gold tiger stripe camouflage. Made in Japan.

* Revisited general pattern of the classic US Army M1941 HBT Utility jacket.
* Contrasting fabric texture combination, melton wool and indigo cotton twill.
* Battledress-type waist length.
* Side cinch straps, mil-specs metal sliders.
* Concealed inner chest pocket.
* Indigo cotton twill top collar for neck confort.
* Indigo twill selvedge visible on inside pocket fold.
* ‘Bat sleeve’ pattern with indigo twill gusset for arm hole comfort.
* Expanding box pleat chest pockets, indigo cotton twill.
* Indigo-dyed corozo wood buttons.
* Adjustable wrist cuffs.
* ‘Oxidized’ black 100% cotton thread stitching.
* MFSC ‘tailleur‘ woven label on the inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

Our ‘CDO Jacket’ comes unwashed, is true to size, and meant to be professionally dry-cleaned.
However, for the adventurous few who like a bit of ‘torquing and roping’ in their fabrics, the jacket can be initially soaked in cold water for 20-30 mn, briefly hand agitated, and spun dry. Shape it a bit to your body by wearing it briefly before hanging and letting fully dry overnight. This process is not intended to shrink the jacket, but instead to ‘tone down’ the off-the-shelf look inherent to raw garments in general. The necessity of this step is left to everyone judgement and is merely a subjective suggestion.
Unlike its denim Utility Jacket predecessor I had opted to size down with, I wear a medium (38) in the CDO jacket.

Please refer to sizing chart for measurements.

CDO Jacket Sizing Jkt Sizing CDO

Professional dry-cleaning or hand-wash and hang-dry. Do NOT use hot water or throw the jacket in a dryer.

Available RAW/unwashed
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

RETAIL $629.95

Available from, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron,

MF® 2015

Indigo Melton Wool “Drover Blouse”. Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

Indigo Melton Drover Mister Freedom 2013


Indigo Melton Drover Mister Freedom 2013



Indigo Melton “DROVER” Blouse
“Viva la Revolución” mfsc Fall 2013

Looks like some of our “Men of the Frontier” cowpokes-turned-filibusterers brought some of their gear along this season…
From the chilly Sierra Nevada trails to the banks of the Rio Grande, here come the Drover Blouse again… Some of you may be familiar with our original issue of this coat , made from recycled military blankets, natural color.

Mister Freedom original Drover Blouse

Original Drover Blouse

This time however, our wool coat took a little plunge (or 10 for that matter) in an indigo vat. Following a somewhat successful indigo dye test done some months ago on an off-white drover (only two dips), we decide to include an indigo option for our Fall 2013 line-up, after a tense and tumultuous board meeting that lasted an entire minute.

Drover Indigo Prototype Mister Freedom

Drover Indigo early Prototype

The high grade Melton wool we used for this season Drover was milled and indigo dyed in Japan.
I was quite relieved when I realized that this project was not going to require my personal involvement with the dyeing process. Like they say, leave it to the pros.
Our Indigo Melton Drover is not garment dyed. Instead the natural wool was dyed first, then cut & sewn. This way, all the horsehide leather trims/lining keep their contrasting touch.
The body lining consist of a fabric we had milled in Japan, inspired by the unlikely indigo covert fabric liner of an 1890’s pair of trousers. This indigo covert is a recurring textile for our Fall 2013.

Vintage inspiration Mister Freedom® ©2013 (19)

The arms lining are a cotton stripe ticking we have been using often for our mfsc products (same fabric originally used as watch pocket on our 7161 utility trousers, sometime in 2006.)

Over time and with normal wear, the Indigo Drover should get some interesting natural patina and I’ll be posting some evolution photos after winter. However, a wool jacket is not a pair of jeans, don’t try to speed up the natural aging process. Results in fading/patina will vary according to your activities.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan as a collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.


PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, introduced as the “Blouse Chaparral” for Spring 2012. Inspired by 1920′s~30′s sport type jackets and other vintage outdoor coats.
100% Melton wool, soft hand, 31 Oz., selvedge.
Indigo vat dyed, about 10 dips, deep dark tone.

Fully lined.
Body: 100% cotton indigo covert twill (aka salt & pepper), 8.5 Oz.
Arm: 100% cotton ticking (white w/ blue stripes).

*  1920′s~30′s type silhouette, high waist.
* Original round collar.
* Back darting and expansion gusset, 1930′s style.
* Side waist adjustable straps.
* Horsehide leather side and cuff cinch straps (with vintage NOS French metal slide buckles)
* Cowhide leather pocket trimming.
* Arrow chest pocket.
* Horsehide leather detachable chin-strap.
* Wool selvedge on front panels button facing.
* Seven button front. Brown Corozo wood buttons (aka Ivory nut).
* Full lining, 100% cotton.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* No exposed seam, no overlock.
* Limited Edition.

Please do not wash. DRY CLEAN only.

We recommend wearing the jacket as is, and taking it to a professional environmentally friendly dry cleaner when cleaning is needed.
NOTE: Due to the nature of indigo dye, crocking is expected and normal. Some color will rub for a period of time, on car seats, sofas etc…. Indigo is also sun sensitive and will change in color when exposed.
The Indigo Melton Drover is true to size. I usually wear a 38 in mfsc, and a 38 Drover fits me snug. You might want to size up if you are in between two sizes, especially if you will be wearing sweaters or layering this winter.
Please refer to chart below for measurements. Please consider the thickness of the fabric (wool + lining) when figuring out sizing.

Melton Drover Sizing

Available RAW/unwashed

36 (small)
38 (medium)
40 (large)
42 (xlarge)
44 (xxlarge)

Retail $879.95

Available from
Please call 323-653-2014 or mail with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for the support 😉