Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot54 Reissue (Lot54R), NOS Cone Mills XUV 12 Oz. selvedge denim, mfsc SS2024. Made in USA

 

Original Mister Freedom® Californian Lot54 ©2012 Cory Piehowicz Photography

Original Mister Freedom® Californian Lot54 ©2012 Cory Piehowicz Photography

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot54 Reissue (Lot54R), NOS Cone Mills XUV Selvedge denim, 12 Oz.
mfsc SS2024 SPORTSMAN Catalog
Made in USA

They are back!

The anticipated reissue of our very first MF® CALIFORNIAN blue jeans, an original vintage-inspired five-pocket pattern initially released in 2010, is finally out.
Same classic straight leg cut with traditional mid-rise, same trims, and same vintage New Old Stock (NOS) denim fabric.

We called that cut “Lot54” at the time, a nod the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans featured in The Wild One (1954).
To quote Johnny Stabler, “Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go.” Snap.
Our revived traditional five-pocket design was obviously heavily-inspired by a combo of old Lee®/Levis®/Wrangler® classics, twisted MF® style.

The pair of Lot54 I wore at the time — I had much fewer MF® five-pocket options to grab from the closet back in 2010, so I went hard on those — is one of my favorite in my stash of Californians today. I save them for special occasions, and affectionately call them my “Sunday jeans”. That splash of red paint on the right leg is from the original MF® HQ facade facelift…

After much hunting around in local LA warehouses, we were lucky enough to score some forgotten yardage of the exact same Cone Mills selvedge denim of the original Lot54s, a coded “XUV” 12 Oz. indigo denim twill milled by Cone’s White Oak factory in Greensboro, North Carolina, when it was still operating. After 112 years of loyal service to the Denim and Fashion Industry, that facility notoriously closed in 2017, victim of corporate greed and offshoring fueled by a global audience’s thirst for cheaper goods. Whayagonnado.

If you’re into a classic pair of selvedge jeans with an old school silhouette, cut from vintage NOS USA-milled denim, sewn in USA, and with promising fabric evo potential, the MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot54R (reissue) may not be a bad choice.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot54R (reissue) are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from NOS Cone Mills premium selvedge denim milled in USA.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT54 cut features a traditional fit, classic mid-rise, with a straight leg for a 1950s-60s period vibe and silhouette.
FABRIC:
Fabric: New Old Stock Cone Mills “XUV” selvedge 3×1 indigo denim, 12 Oz., white with red line selvedge ID, milled in USA.
Pocketing: Classic NOS white 100% cotton twill.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed silver tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Classic NOS cotton twill pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge, to impress friends.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket, to further impress friends.
* Concealed back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, initial 2010 yellow edition (with unedited smoking’ Johnny!)
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot54R jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry and line dry, or drip dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The Lot54R are considered true-to-size. See our MF® Californian cut/fit references here.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs., I opted for my current W30 waist size, for a snug waist and classic generous 1950s-60s leg.
I’m going un-hemmed and un-cuffed with these.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.

CARE for your MF® denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Note that boiling your jeans will turn the leather patch into instant beef jerky, and attaching a new patch on an already-mounted rear pocket is about as easy as wrangling a pack of feral jackrabbits.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® “Californian” LOT.54BB, New Old Stock Cone Mills selvedge denim, FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.54BB
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Selvedge Denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog FW2019.
Made in USA.

Sometime in 2010, we released our first-born “Californian” into the wild. This was the MF® Californian LOT.54 blue jeans, all made in USA, cut from a New Old Stock Cone Mills 12 Oz. selvedge denim. If our initial contribution to the crowded world of the classic five-pocket jeans had absolutely zero impact on the Xintang denim industry, it is always a treat for us to spot one of our “M” and pocket patch in a crowd. Many thanks to everyone who adopted the “Californian” over the years, we know there are many options out there.
After the LOT.54’s success, followed a “spectacular plethora” (dixit our friend Daniel) of releases and fits, in a timeline outlined here.

For Fall 2019, we dusted-off that old LOT.54 pattern and paired it with another NOS Cone Mills goodie, a handsome 13Oz. denim twill with an old-school indigo blue hue warp, and a white/red line selvedge ID.
We borrowed the buckle-back cinch of the LOT.44, slapped it on there, and are calling this release the LOT.54BB. We tricked-out the rear by incorporating our classic Buckaroos printed cloth patch under the back cinch strap, traditionally stitching the label on top of the waistband/back-yoke but under the center belt loop.
Another cosmetic detail is the addition of an inside blank “name tag” attached to the pocket bag, opposite of the traditional coin pocket, for no other reason than finding the outside display of yellow/orange/white contrast stitching quite attractive. We’re vain like that.
The pocket bags of this 2019 edition are cut from a sturdy NOS cotton canvas, in a complementing warm rusty red color.

The fit of the Californian LOT.54BB is similar to the original LOT.54, with a roomy leg, generous waist and high rise, for those into a fuller 40’s-50’s period silhouette. If after a slimmer leg, but still with a vintage vibe, please see our more tapered Californians LOT.64, LOT.74 and LOT.674.

The Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.54BB are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID, with a traditional indigo blue hue warp.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton canvas, rusty red color.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Traditional selvedge leg outseam.
* Buckle-back cinch strap, with concealed denim selvedge.
* New Old Stock cotton canvas pocket bags, rusty red color.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* “Buckaroos” printed cloth label stitched under cinch and rear belt loop.
* Inside “name tag” cloth label.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly shank buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® yellow paper pocket flasher.
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.54BB comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.

We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
* Spin dry and line dry.
* Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

This specific 13 Oz. Cone Mills denim twill is considered sanforized (= pre-shrunk at the milling stage), so our usual recommended pre-soak procedure will not have much impact on the jeans other than a bit of puckering and roping due to the all-cotton stitching, the soaking also revealing a slightly more vibrant blue denim color.

The LOT.54BB pattern features a high rise and a full leg, with somewhat of a vintage 40’s-50’s period silhouette. For slimmer legs, please see our more tapered Californians LOT.64, LOT.74 and LOT.674.
On the boys-band fit photo, left to right, Peter is sporting a pristine original 2010 edition LOT.54 (Waist 32), Daniel is looking spectacular in his 2013 edition LOT.64 (Waist 30), and I’m breaking-in a fully cinched LOT.54BB early sample (W32, will probably size down to W31 with production.)
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

Mister Freedom® 2010 Californian LOT.54 (W32), 2013 LOT.64 (W30), 2019 LOT.54BB (W32)

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Before washing, turn the jeans inside-out to avoid indigo color marbling. Machine wash in cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

The Classic Fits of the Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans.

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans.
Made in USA.

Our popular classic five-pocket jeans are called “Californian” because they are made in California, USA.
The MF® Californians come in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by main Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.

Through the years, we have issued various iterations of these Lots, showcasing assorted selvedge denims and trim options, released in the USA in rigid/loomstate form only:

Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, button fly, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, button fly, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.44R (Reissue, w/o packaging, 2018): Same as Lot.44 but issued in NOS Cone 13.Oz sanforized denim twill.
Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, zipper fly, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim.
Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.

Asides from our MF® Californians, we also offer a wide range of non five-pocket denim trousers.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans, Lot. 54

The MF® CALIFORNIAN, long awaited-for MISTER FREEDOM® first five-pocket style blue jeans are in the house! All made in USA from American un-sanforized Dead Stock (NOS) indigo blue 12 oz. denim…

SPECS:
* Pattern: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans.
* Fabric: New Old Stock American made selvedge indigo denim. White/red stripped selvedge ID. Un-sanforized. Approx. 12oz. square yard weight. Guaranteed to age and beautify with repeat wear.
* Pocketing: 100% cotton sturdy Bedford cord type woven NOS fabric. Natural un-bleached white.
* Fit: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
“Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go (SNAP)”
* Construction: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Top back pockets covered riveting and ‘zigzag flush’ reinforcement. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* Stitching: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* Trims: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* Labeling: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* Shrinkage: 8% or less, with minimal shrinkage with cold rinse/hang dry (recommended) and maximum shrinkage with hot wash/full dryer cycle. As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur depending on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
* Sizing: The Californian comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage.
Example:  A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 36” before wash.  They will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear from a W30 to W32 depending on my mood/style of the pants (I have a W30 on the photo, about 2 months wear.)

NOTE:
1) On length:
To avoid the effect of the “accordion” legs, typical of the Japanese denim replica silhouettes, we chose graduated length for the Californian. Many pairs of vintage denim are often seen worn “as found”, ie. sometimes borderline too short on taller individuals. We prefer this to the ‘endless’ legs characteristic of all new denim production.
If the jeans are too long, cuff them (sloppy rolls or folded) if you like cuffs. If they are just or a tad too short, a narrow single fold cuff still looks cool imo. Just wear good footwear!
If they look like bermudas on you, then it’s not meant to be…
2) On washing:
We recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
The “wear ’em raw” method is great too (makes for amazing wear), but you might want to size down (if you are a measured waist 30”, wear a tagged W29), and never hit water! Even when worn raw, denim will shrink/stretch with heat/tension, so your jeans will adapt to your body over time.
3) Leather patch:
The debossed MF® pocket leather patch will lose its details/colour with washing in warm/hot water (for those of you who insist on hot soaking their jeans…) It will dry out and crack overtime, and is intended to do so.

The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L32 SOLD OUT
W29 × L32 SOLD OUT
W30 × L32 SOLD OUT
W31 × L32 SOLD OUT
W32 × L34 SOLD OUT
W33 × L34 SOLD OUT
W34 × L34 SOLD OUT
W36 × L34 SOLD OUT
W38 × L34 SOLD OUT
(see “Sizing” section above for the low-down)
Retail $249.95

Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.