The “Continental Trousers”
NOS Italian Cotton-Linen crosshatch denim twill, indigo moss blue
Sportsman Collection Spring 2016
We decided to break the Internet this Spring.
Just by adding a new three-piece type concept to our Sportsman catalog. It will consist of three new garment patterns with a suiting vibe that we’ll exotically call the Mister Freedom® Continental Trousers, Continental Vest, and Continental Sportcoat.
Our intention is less an urge to have Savile Row shopkeepers and bespoke tailors lose sleep over an American invasion than a desire to add an elegant classic touch to our Mister Freedom® Made in USA catalog. So expect a bit of unpretentious suiting for the Worldly Gentleman á la MF® in the Sportsman collection for the coming seasons.
According to how lucky we are digging up New Old Stock loot, each season will welcome a new member to our Continental family. With the finished garments, the idea will be to mismatch pieces according to one’s personal taste and need for a not-so-formal yet sophisticated wardrobe. If all goes according to plan, the MF® Continental concept should make us insanely rich, and you incredibly handsome.
For the TV marketing campaign, our CEO will grow a beard and deliver this heartfelt message:
“You’re gonna like the way you look, but I don’t guarantee it.”
 Continentalander. He’s back. Like for serious. Sometime in 2015, we scored a pretty incredible lot of three different slubby cotton-linen crosshatch twills, milled in Italy. Fallen-off Guido’s truck and acquired in exchange for several kidneys from the Mister Freedom® crew, not much is known about these fabric rolls, besides yarn content, weight and Country of Origin. All three would technically qualify as denim twill, typically featuring a dark-colored warp and a natural-colored weft, but the 30 to 40% linen fiber adds an elegant and crispy touch to the grouping. The three colors we will be releasing the Continental series in this season are charcoal grey, slate grey and indigo blue. There will not be full matching sets available for each color, both intentionally and due to limited yardage.
Our first release is the Continental Trousers, a new 2016 pattern for us. The keen eye will notice the obvious similarities with the Mister Freedom® Sportsman Chinos, already available in several irresistible iterations. But these MF® trousers now feature a slick late 1950’s-early 1960’s silhouette, with a slimmer leg and a mid-rise fitted top block. The belt loop width has also been slimmed down, for a Gentleman trousers feel rather than a workwear/utilitarian vibe.
Fit wise, the Continental Trousers are designed to have a classic slim silhouette. And because, aesthetically speaking, no one cares to experience the Battle of the Bulging Pants around here, the Continental Trousers will not be following contemporary skinny legwear standards.
The fabric choice for the first round of our new pant style is the indigo-colored twill batch, an 11 Oz. crosshatch twill (= a very slubby warp and weft), an attractive 70% cotton and 30% linen blend. It is the inherent nature of linen-blended textiles to wrinkle and, when made into garments, to noticeably stretch according to wear and wearer. More on that in the Fit/Sizing section.
Please note that the Continental Trousers come un-hemmed, with an overlocked leg bottom. The choice of hemming (plain or cuffed) is left up to the wearer. I opted for a classic “American” 1¼ inch fold on my pair, somewhat of a late 50’s reference. We suggest wearing the trousers around the house a bit, before settling on a length that works for you, somewhere in-between 1960’s flood length and the traditional single trousers-break. For grown-ups, resisting the unsightly over-stacking accordion-leg look favored by fashionable streetwear hipsters is always worth the effort. Having said that, to each his own.
The Continental Trousers are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An mfsc original, a re-vamped pattern of the Mister Freedom® Sportsman Chinos featuring a slimmed down silhouette with an elegant late 50’s-early 60’s attitude.
FABRIC:
11 Oz. crosshatch denim twill, indigo moss blue (blue with a greenish sheen), slubby 70% cotton 30% linen blend, milled in Italy. New Old Stock.
Pocketing: NOS two by one (2×1) 100% cotton blue denim, about 8 Oz., origin USA.
DETAILS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Navy blue corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam “caballo” all around construction.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Crotch gusset pattern.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* 100% NOS blue denim pocket bags, waist band and fly facing.
* Apple watch pocket.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
Linen-blended textiles wrinkle and stretch. For example, freshly laundered linen garments fit tighter in the morning than at the end of the day.
We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. This indigo blue cotton-linen crosshatch twill can pretty much be considered as sanforized, as it will tend to stretch back out to raw measurements after wear, despite the noticeable shrinkage following the initial rinsing procedure.
The Continental Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured-waist 32 inches, you are a stamped W32 in the Continental Trouser. Do not size down on these.
Please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with very muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.
Hemming: After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The crispy cotton-linen fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE:
Hand wash or machine wash on delicate, pants inside-out, cold water with minimal environmentally friendly detergent and line dry.
Natural fading of this fabric is to be expected with normal repeat wash/wear cycles, although we have yet to see any faded/worn examples.
NOTE: Full washing cycle in hot water and machine dry might result in maximum shrinkage and color loss. NOT recommended.
Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes (W stands for Waist. I know, but we’ve been asked)
W 28
W 30
W 32
W 34
W 36
W 38
Retail $289.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2016
Sportsman Shirt, Tartan edition.
“The Sportsman” catalog, Fall 2014
This might come as a disappointing piece of news to you, but if you were thinking of sporting a Balmoral Tartan kilt this winter, fuhgeddaboudit. You’d need the approval of Her Majesty The Queen. I heard this takes a while. She’s busy.
A Tartan could be described as “a design which is capable of being woven consisting of two or more alternating coloured stripes which combine vertically and horizontally to form a repeated chequered pattern“, as per the very official Scottish Register Of Tartans.
It turns out some of the 90°-angled geometrical designs we, barbarians, refer to as plaids find their origin in the Highlands of XVIIIth Century Scotland. With such a rich historical background to explore, it is tempting for me to rewind back to 1538, and mention King James V’s hose. No, not the courtesans, the plaid tights he wore.
 James V of Scotland’s selfie So, before this gets out of hand, here is where Mister Freedom® cometh in.
At this point, you’re saying “Show me da goods foo! Where’s my MF® F/W 2014 ERDL kilt?!”
Holdeth thy horses Sire, I says. That’s up next season. For now, alas, we have opted to entertain your brave heart spirit with a simple Sportsman Shirt, in two funky fresh options:
a) A cloth in the style of a “Dress Stewart” tartan, woven plaid with a red dominant, 50% cotton 50% linen blend.
b) A cloth in the style of a “Dress Menzies” tartan, woven plaid with a white dominant, 50% cotton 50% linen blend.
Both fabric options are milled in 日本, Empire of the Sun.
Ali Ghetto, don’t touch my mustache.
The shirt pattern is our classic Sportsman Shirt body, featuring the usual signature details such as inverted box-pleat pocketing, shoulder expansion pleats, inside green chain-stitch, metal cast buttons, side gussets, chin strap, American manufacture…
Now, on a side note, dig this.
Our local factory decided to improvise and share with us their open-edge side gusset technique. Thanks guys, that’s very special. This is the same group of savvy experts who had, in the past, opted to overlock the edge of a perfectly fine vintage selvedge chambray fabric so that… it wouldn’t unravel.
 I respect your talent, but my wife doesn’t like it This time, while checking this proudly made in USA production, we realized the single layer gusset piece had, not only no selvedge, but was cut on a bias with unfinished edges (a traditional gusset is either a selvedge single layer or folded over double layer piece of fabric)…
Luckily, this flaw will in no way jeopardize the integrity of the seam of our shirt. But the edge of the gussets will fray with washing. Rugged daddy style, which some brands charge extra for.
Of course this stays between you and I. Let’s just say Mister Freedom® is starting a trend here. Soon at a mall near you, as we’ve seen worse things catch on.
UPDATES!!!
Liz called and said we’d better fix the gussets, and on the quickness. So we can all move on, here is what we did. The shirts will come with hemmed side gussets, as picture front and back on these macro shots. The fellow staring at your gussets next to you will see a top stitch.
We understand if this is unacceptable to some, and will gladly suggest other options. We’re not pushy.
Our Sportsman Shirt Tartan edition is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, with the help of a few local skilled geniuses. Fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by our usual vintage influences.
FABRIC:
Two options
a) A “Dress Stewart” style fabric (woven plaid with a red dominant), 50% cotton 50% linen. Milled in Japan.
b) A “Dress Menzies” style fabric (woven plaid with a white dominant), 50% cotton 50% linen. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front.
* MF® original olive green painted embossed metal buttons, combination solid and MFSC branding.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chain-stitch MF® signature.
* Fashion-forward side gussets, very special.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
* Made in California, USA.
SIZING/WASHING
This plaid shirt comes raw/unwashed and both options will shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an initial cold rinse and line dry. Do not use hot water or heat dryer, as this will result in excessive shrinkage.
It is the nature of linen to always look wrinkled after being rinsed. This is not a flaw, but one of the few differences between linen and polyester jersey.
Our blend of 50% linen and 50% cotton feels quite ‘dry’ and will soften overtime, with normal wash & wear cycles.
If you are usually a Medium in mfsc shirting, you are a Medium in the Sportsman Tartan.
Please refer to our sizing chart for measurements of raw and cold-rinse/line-dry garments.
 
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
RETAIL $289.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
 Right there.
Yes! Right there…
Shooting the ‘Crew Pants’ in the back of the store for this next “Sea Hunt” post the other day, I looked closer at one of the props. Namely a Feb. 1942 issued map of the Pacific Ocean, found inside a 40’s white USN ditty bag, along with the sailor’s stencils/cover/letters…
 Daw, T.A.’s USN Ditty Bag On the map, he had circled his way from Newark to Portland to… the Solomon Islands (Guadalcanal ’42, anyone?)
Not sure what happened to seaman “Daw, T.A.”, but what he did then gives me the liberty today to choose another destination.
I pick Bora Bora. So I’m adding my longtime favorite body oil as an extra prop to the photo. Made in Tahiti since 1942. Get sum’ here!
🙂
Sooo, dear Monsieur Monoi and Madame Tiki, kindly mail two complimentary airline tickets to:
Mister Freedom®, 7161 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036,USA.
Māuruuru in advance 😉
Anyways…
Mister Freedom® “Crew Pants”
‘Sea Hunt’ mfsc Spring 2014
Commonly referred to as ‘fatigues’, the US Army “Utility, Trousers, OG-107, TYPE 1 Class 1” became associated with the early years of the Vietnam conflict. The original 8.5 Oz fabric they were made of was a type of carded cotton sateen vat-dyed Olive Green, shade number 107. This sturdy fabric was well adapted for Korea, but was later found unsuitable for a tropical jungle theater and replaced by popeline and ripstop for the utility sets.
Some call these trousers ‘Baker Pants’. According to Artist and collector Patrick ‘Riveted’ Segui, this might refer to the fame of US Army MSgt. John Franklin Baker, Jr., Medal of Honor decorated ‘tunnel rat’ hero of the Vietnam war. Anyone with an alternate explanations for the term is welcome to pitch in. Anyone wanting to correct me on other historical inaccuracies I might have committed is truly welcome too.
 Business in the front…  … party in the back. NOTE: Both above images from our archives are NOT related, were taken some twenty years apart and are NOT intended to be disrespectful in any way.
The Mister Freedom® ‘CREW PANTS’ share the general pattern of these P57 (pattern dated 11 March 1957) ‘fatigues’, including the waist adjuster tabs and large rear pocket flaps of type 1 trousers.
Where we decided to intervene and wake up from lethargy however is with the choice of fabrics. The idea was to mix things up, continents, eras, fabrics and styles, as the members of our Team did when giving instructions to have their custom functional gear designed. These trousers soon became everyone’s favorite, on and off board.
Here are the two options for our version of these classic utility trousers:
a) “MN” Linen-cotton:
Referring (again) to the French Navy, this 6.75 Oz blend of 55% cotton and 45% linen was developed from several 1950’s vintage samples of French Marine Nationale utility uniforms. The fabric is similar to a thick type of slubby chambray, rendered ‘crispy’ by the linen content. Our version features actual indigo dyed yarn, as was used in very early models. I have always loved this fabric, the color, the feel and the way it fades overtime.
For decades, a French seaman’s ‘tenue de travail’ partly consisted of buttoned flap-front deck pants, pleated summer shorts, pull-over tops (vareuse) and a (rare) shawl collar jacket made out of this fabric. It was replaced by a purple-ish color denim-like cotton twill in the 1970’s, subsequently evolving into a poly-cotton version.
We sent several vintage samples and instructions to the fabric experts at Toyo Enterprises, and we were honestly thrilled with how nice the resulting Japan milled textile came out.
I have always longed to find a pair of ‘simple’ trousers in that cotton-linen fabric that would be easier to wear than the typical crackerjack style pants. There is it 😉
 Vintage 1950’s French Navy inspiration b) Brown Twill:
This 9 Oz 100% cotton fabric was developed from a WW1 US Army officer pair of jodhpurs from our archives. I really loved the feel of the twill and the way it had evolved though the years. That vintage fabric was totally different from the more common army chino twill we are used to.
Again, the textile experts at Toyo Enterprises were put to the challenge with that mystery, studied yarn per yarn, and milled the fabric according to a tiny swatch hidden in a seam, tightly protected from wear and sun exposure. These guys use microscopes and crazy technical fabric content tests. They’re good.
Interestingly, the resulting original pre-fade color is very similar to that of our Britches Chaparral and Americano Trousers. The common thread…
 Vintage WW1 US Army jodhpurs inspiration. For both options, we are using an Olive Drab USMC HBT fabric (courtesy of Buzz Rickson’s) for the waist band lining and fly facing, a WW2 OD shade #7. Please note that production does not come with someone’s name stenciled on the inside waistband. I have a tendency to mark most of my clothes, for no other reason than an old tenacious habit from bygone boarding school days.
The “CREW PANTS” of our Sea Hunt Spring 2014 Collection are made in Japan as a collaboration between Mister Freedom® and Sugarcane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC: Two fabric options
a) “MN” Linen-cotton: 6.75 Oz blend of 55% cotton and 45% linen, plain weave. Milled in Japan exclusively for mfsc.
b) Brown Twill: 9 Oz 100% cotton twill fabric (approx. color Pantone Reference: 732 U)
DETAILS:
* Pattern adapted from an original pair of US Army P57 utility trousers.
* High-waist, straight leg, generous fit.
* Two ply waistband with Olive Drab USMC HBT fabric lining (OD shade #7)
* Button fly, corozo (vegetable ivory nut) top and fly buttons.
* Side waist adjuster.
* Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* mfsc white woven label, ready for perso markings.
SIZING/WASHING:
Both fabric options come un-washed, as always with MF® gear.
Although different in measurements when raw, both will shrink to a very similar fit. Due to the different drape of the two very different fabrics, the same size might however feel and appear different when worn.
The Brown Twill are cut longer than their MN linen counterpart, for no other reason than to make us all wonder why…
Please note that due to the ‘crispiness’ and wrinkling properties of linen, leg creases will ‘lift’ the fabric and will have to be put into consideration for those hemming their pair.
I had to size down to a Waist 30 on both of these CREW PANTS, which I right away attributed to my daily 3mn planking routine I started last week. Nice try. They ARE cut quite generously.
We recommend the usual original cold soak/spin dry/line dry routine.
Please note that our rinse tests were done following this method, and that using hot water and powered dryer (both not recommended) will result in more shrinkage.
Further washing, when needed, should be done on ‘delicate’, with mild detergent, and trousers turned inside out to avoid ‘marbling’ of the fabric.
After a few cycle of normal wash/wear, the CREW PANTS will reach their low-maintenance status and age gracefully.
 MN Crew Pants  Brown Twill Crew Pants
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes
W28
W30
W32
W34
W36
W38
Retail $439.95
Available from our brick & mortar and our webstore.
Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Britches Chaparral, Brown and Indigo Cotton/linen canvas.
Movin’ on, friends…
Here is our fifth installment of our “Men of the Frontier” journey, the cotton-linen canvas “BRITCHES CHAPARRAL”.
Again, borrowing from both the American West and the Old World, we have combined European influenced fabrics with 30’s-40’s slacks and “chino” American style trousers.
The fabric options are the same than our “Chaparral Blouse”: two Cotton-Linen plain weave selvedge canvases, Indigo dyed and “cachou” brown.
A quite ‘simple’ trousers pattern for those britches, but loaded with small details, and made with fabrics that will wear very nicely and develop interesting character and patina.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s-1940’s work type trousers and cotton slacks. Mid/high rise.
FABRIC: The Chaparral Britches come in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
DETAILS:
* Selvedge outer leg seam.
* Slash type front pockets, with inner selvedge angled stitched fold.
* Gun metal color donut button fly with double button waist.
* Two slash rear pockets, with arrowhead type button flaps.
* Watch/coin pocket
* Trousers type pocket bag construction and lining, with 100% cotton tight weave sateen fabric, beige color.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching
* Flat felled seam seat construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the BRITCHES CHAPARRAL come in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
The britches come UNWASHED, the material is raw, so shrinkage is expected. With an initial cold soak and line dry, both fabrics will shrink differently, but will reach TAGGED size down the line. Note that cotton-linen textiles shrink and stretch yoyo style with wear and wash.
An additional 1.5 inch can be let out from the bottom cuff if needed (single stitch machine.)
Note on fit: You’ll notice a different fit and silhouette with the two options on the photos. I am around a waist 31 usually, and had to go with a tagged waist 32 with both the Indigo and Brown britches. My brown pair has been cold washed (inside out to avoid marbling), line dried. I also tapered the leg by taking in the outer leg seam by about 1.5cm. My Indigo pair was just cold rinsed, line dried, no alteration, and still has some shrinkage due. Because I do not want to mess with the rich and deep Indigo color, I’ll wear them this way for a while. I don’t mind a bit looser fit for the summer with those. Rolled up with espadrilles should do the trick for our California weather…
See chart below for approximate measurements of raw vs. cold soaked/line dried. (we didn’t ‘pull’ on the fabric for measurements, and because the Indigo cotton/linen wrinkles more, there are slight differences). Due to very limited stock we couldn’t rinse/test all sizes/options.
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the indigo dye, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO canvas option BRITCHES CHAPARRAL. You WILL get some color rubbing if you wear a light color shirt tucked in. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash. Please use minimal mild AND environment friendly detergent.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.
Available RAW/Unwashed
Tagged Sizes (= will shrink to sizes):
W28 × L33
W30 × L33
W32 × L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L34
W38 × L34
RETAIL: $549.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship ALMOST everywhere internationally. We thank you for your support.
    
From the late 1800’s all the way to the first half of the 20th Century, a dreaded future for french draftees and ruffians was to “get sent to Biribi.”
The term Biribi encompassed penitentiaries in Algeria and Morocco. Often associated with the Bat’ d’Af’ (French military disciplinary battalions of North Africa), Biribi was the solution chosen by the French government to tame hard headed rebels, anarchists and other misfits.
Youngsters with a misdemeanor police record, individuals who had tried to dodge the draft (common practice was to stick a rusty fork in your thigh to invalidate yourself…), or just had an issue with authority, ended up doing time under the blazing sun in the ol’ African French Colonies. Fun activities included breaking piles of hot rocks, building never ending roads, enduring constant humiliation such as the infamous crapaudine, but mainly learning the ropes for a future life in the underworld. Biribi made the tough tougher and buried the weak.
Biribi and other French colonies penitentiaries (Bagne de Cayenne…) disappeared in the mid 1950’s, after numerous testimonies of survivors had shaken public opinion, and international pressure had forced the government to change its penal system. The year 1972 marked the official dissolution of the last Bat’ d’Af’ unit.
On a lighter note, Biribi will be the background for a small limited edition group of garments. We will be using NOS (New Old Stock) rolls of disparate vintage fabrics, mainly cotton/linen homespun style early french textiles and selvedge stripe ticking twills, NOS vintage buttons/trims and single needle machine construction. Early French bourgerons (military work dungarees) were often made of unbleached linen or linen/cotton blends, plain or HBT weave. The use of stripe fabrics for early penitentiary gear is believed to be a way to facilitate the spotting of escapees, before they could get their hands on more blending outfits…
The MF “Biribi Bourgerons” pictured above are a sample of our small production.
Available One Wash (preshrunk)
Made in USA
Assorted Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Retail $249.95: Shrinkage varies from one NOS fabric to the other. It is impossible for us to make a graded sizing pattern for each textile, so slight differences in fits are to be expected with each style. Some styles will not be available in all sizes. On the “fit picx” (this is JUST to get an idea), our Lady model is wearing an XSmall, John a Medium, CL a Small. The fits are left up to the wearer according to which silhouette works for them.
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
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