Mister Freedom® SCUBA Utilities, “Okinawa 301” denim, mfsc SS2022 FROGSVILLE

Mister Freedom® SCUBA Utilities, “Okinawa 301” left-hand twill denim
mfsc SS2022 FROGSVILLE
Made in Japan

These came about as we were considering turning the Scuba Trunks pattern – inspired by old school UDT combat swimmer shorts – into a pair of pants. The mission? Coming up with a pair of dungarees not related to the ubiquitous 5-pocket jeans, that could have existed.

Wanna turn shorts into pants?”, I quipped, “Here it is, Barney-style, just add legs!

The Mister Freedom® Design Dept kindly remarked that morphing our swim trunks into a pair of practical work pants may take a few more cups of brain juice.
First, we needed front pockets for functionality, so we borrowed the patch pocket design (sandwiched in the outseam) of our Utility Trousers from 2015.
For the back of the pants, the single square pocket of the trunks felt too plain, so we tapped our Swabbies for a more visually-pleasing rear pocketing design. We also needed two pockets, to balance with the absence of back yoke, also a feature of our classic Speedways, anecdotally. The four pockets are cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with the traditional vertical warp used for the legs, which always makes for interesting fabric roping and patina.
We of course kept the no-belt loops style waist band and D-ring cinch strap, pure vintage UDT shorts legacy.

There it is. A modern day wearable blending vintage military aesthetics and utilitarian clothing functionality, as featured in the “Chairborne Commando” star-studded Hollywood blockbuster.

Our Scuba Trunks may have challenged some in the Heritage Fashion community regarding “how short can you go?”, and, incidentally puzzled a few beach goers in my coastal neighborhood for a couple of years now, but its long-legged successor, the Scuba Utes, shouldn’t raise too many eyebrows in public. At least initially. Just wait for the “sick fades” on that sweet “Okinawa 301” indigo left-hand twill denim, and watch the crowds part and jaws drop!

The MF® Scuba Utilities are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy “Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo premium denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID, a Sugar Cane Co proprietary fabric. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 80% cotton and 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage military swimmers trunks and UDT shorts, US Navy dungarees, Army field trousers and other utilitarian classic garments.
* Old school high rise, classic straight leg cut.
* Adjustable waist strap with Mil-Specs double D-ring buckle, ½ inch ~ 1 inch cinch.
* Waistband facing displaying denim selvedge ID.
* No belt loops.
* Front patch pocket original pattern, sandwiched in flat-felled outseam.
* Double rear pockets, concealed selvedge ID on inside fold.
* All four pockets cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with vertical warp of legs.
* Button fly, black painted metal “donut” wreath tack buttons.
* Chainstitch seam construction.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® SCUBA Utilities are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.

  • Cold soak garment for about 30 mn in bathtub or washing machine, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
  • Line dry/drip dry. 

The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the denim fabric, and is normal. Stiffness will easily subside with normal wear, fabric will soften.

The D-ring waist strap allows for about ½ inch to one inch cinch. I opted for a W31 in the Scuba Utilities, fully cinched, for a comfortable fit (I wear a W32 in all models of Scuba Trunks.) I’m about 5’7 / 145-150 lbs.

CARE:
Wash when necessary, as other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the pants inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022

Mister Freedom® Californian Blue Jeans Lot.64 LHT, NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left Hand Twill denim edition, mfsc SS2020, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.64 LHT.
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left-Hand Twill selvedge denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog SS2020.
Made in USA.

We named our popular classic five-pocket jeans the “Californian” because they are made in California, USA. The MF® Californian comes in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
The Californian family grows every season (see recent timeline here), often according to how lucky we get scoring interesting New Old Stock denims.

The first installment of mfsc Spring 2020 is the Californian LOT.64 LHT. This edition features an attractive and quite rare 13 Oz. left-hand twill denim, milled in Greensboro, N.C., by the legendary Cone Mills.
LHT weave is distinct from its more commun right-hand counterpart, as it displays a wale diagonally-going from left to right, as opposed to, you guessed it, right to left. Those familiar with vintage Lee® jeans will relate to this specific weave, as LHT denim has been the fabric of choice for many H.D. Lee classics, such as their iconic 101-J, Storm Rider jacket or Rider Jeans.

Left-hand twill denims come with their specificities, including a tightly-wound indigo warp (resulting in a softer hand), and a white weft more prevalent on the face (resulting in a lighter shade of denim fabric). Fading properties also differ, and well-worn LHT denim tends to display less high contrast than RHT. However, connoisseurs and lucky owners of authentic vintage faded Lee® specimen will attest to the very attractive subtle patina. In all honesty, we haven’t had time to “beat-up” a Lot.64 LHT yet, but the HQ will keep everyone posted.
The pocket bags are cut from a fancy indigo/white woven plaid NOS fabric.

The Lot.64 pattern is our most popular cut, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise, a silhouette inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist.
If our 64 pattern has been fairly consistant throughout the years, the specific drape/weight/color of each denim does alter the silhouette of each model. Visually, this season’s NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. LHT release has a slightly more generous leg than the recently-issued 16 Oz. Midnight denim Lot.64 MD. The fit is somewhat closer to our Lot.54 than other Lot.64s, so please consider sizing down if you are set on the usual Lot.64 silhouette, and if the rinsed measurements work for you.

The Californian LOT.64 LHT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from NOS American denim fabric.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo Left-Hand Twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton indigo/white woven plaid fabric.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS indigo/white woven plaid 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge buttonhole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original MF® silver-color ‘oxidized’ metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (red).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
All the Californian blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will technically shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

This specific Californian Lot.64 LHT edition is cut with a generous waist (referred to as “vanity sizing”), and a rinsed W32 will end-up measuring closer to 33 inches.
The Waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit.
I opted for a W31 with this model (my current size in MF® Californians), for a comfortable top block and generous straight leg silhouette. The resulting fit is closer to that of the Lot.54BB than our classic Lot.64. I personally could have gone down to a W30, but decided to stick to W31.
For those partial to the usual slimmer silhouette of the 64s, and should the rinsed measurements work out, consider sizing down on the LOT.64 LHT.

As with all denim twills, subtle shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please note that, for this model, soaking in hot water or using an electric clothes dryer will hardly result in extra shrinkage after the initial cold soak.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. (soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674, sugar cane fiber “301 Okinawa” 14 Oz. left-hand twill denim, Spring 2017, Made in USA.

Worn on/off for ~ 2 months.

 

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot.674 Blue Jeans, “301 Okinawa” 14 Oz. sugar cane fiber left-hand twill denim.
Spring 2017 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

Introduced sometime during 2010, the Mister Freedom® Californian Blue Jeans is our interpretation of the classic five pocket denim jeans. In the past seven years, we have released several versions of the pattern and fit. Here is a brief recap:

* Californian Lot.54 (yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (box package, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.64 (red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim
* Californian Lot.654 (yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (red/white stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.

 

For Spring 2017, we are welcoming a new member to the Californian Blue Jeans family: the Lot.674.

Still refraining from releasing denim in an array of unnecessary washes and factory-distressed options, the Lot.674 comes in its original raw indigo loomstate. Its raison d’être, as part of the MF® Sportsman catalog, is in its classic mid 60’s slim silhouette. With no intent to reinvent the wheel, we combined the pattern of our popular button-fly Lot.64 with the slightly tapered leg of the zip-fly Lot.74. With even lesser of an intent to tap into the competitive market of sprayed-on men’s jeggings, we merely put a 60’s surf movie twist on our classic five-pocket Californian. The Lot 674 is our slimmest jeans silhouette, and is as slim as we’ll go.

Conan O’Brien, not wearing a Mister Freedom® Californian Lot.674.

For its introduction, the Lot.674 pattern gets royal treatment with a special “301 Okinawa” coronation!
An old mfsc favorite, this sturdy 14 Oz. left-hand twill selvedge denim fabric is a blend of 80% cotton and 20% recycled sugar cane fibers, a novel textile exclusive of Toyo Enterprise, originally developed some 25 years ago for their Sugar Cane Co workwear label. This is a new freshly-milled batch we have been waiting for for a while. The “301 Okinawa” is the same ‘hairy’ denim we used on the first project designed for our Sugar Cane Japanese friends and partners, namely the original mfsc 7161 Utility Trousers (2005). That denim was also used on the Vaquero Jeans (Viva la Revolución 2013), the Okinawa Patrol ShirtDenim Topsiders and Watchman Jacket (Sea Hunt 2014), the Lot.64 Californian “Okinawa” (Sportsman Fall 2014), …
With normal wear and wash cycles, the “301 Okinawa” develops quite an attractive and natural patina. Pictures above feature a mix of several raw/soaked once/slightly worn pairs of Lot.674.

The Californian LOT.674 blue jeans are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional 1950′s-1960’s era blue jeans, traditional fit, slightly tapered leg for a mid-60’s vibe.

FABRIC:
“301 Okinawa”, sturdy 14 Oz. left-hand twill denim, blend of 20% recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton, white/green selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Pocket bags:  Vintage NOS French workwear fabric, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* French NOS fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Unbranded natural cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (ivory).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT
The Californian LOT.674 blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing: cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.

The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear a slim leg yet comfortable tagged W32 in the Lot.674. The fit pix show a pair of W32, cold-soaked once, worn on/off for about 2 months, with some more shrinkage/stretching down the line.
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.

Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed/Un-sanforized
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L34
W38 x L34
Retail $329.95

Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

©2017