N-1z type Deck Pants, indigo-dyed jungle cloth, Fall 2014 “Sea Hunt” Collection

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Indigo deck pants Mister Freedom 2014 (1)

Is that enough props for ya?

 

Deck Pants, Type N-1Z, Indigo-dyed jungle cloth
“Sea Hunt” mfsc collection Fall 2014

Some of us like indigo. Some of us like jungle cloth. Those who like neither are in for a treat with this special number. Double punishment.
We have revisited and ‘simplified’ an old trousers pattern we introduced in 2008, the mfsc N-1K deck pants (“N-1” was for the 1940’s USN deck jacket reference, “K” was for the USAF type K-1 flight suit that inspired the pattern of the front patch pockets). There’s nothing wrong with knocking yourself out once in a while, before Dong does it.

N-1K-sketch Mister Freedom 2008

Everyone is by now familiar with “Jungle Cloth”, a Bedford cord type fabric. This tightly woven cotton, distantly related to the corduroy family, has somewhat of a water repellent quality, and was used quite extensively by the US Navy in the 1920’s-1940’s period, as the fabric of choice for some of the foul weather gear.
Our durable 14 oz. jungle cloth is pretty much mil-specs, with a MF® spin on the color. We had the fabric indigo-dyed for the occasion, a dark shade of indigo blue. The color is light-sensitive, and meant to fade naturally with regular wash/wear cycles. The front patch pockets are using the warp of the fabric horizontally, subtlety contrasting with the vertical grain of the legs. Overtime, the natural patina will highlight the interesting juxtaposition of one fabric going in two directions. We’ll be posting evo photos on the Hall of Fade sometime next year…
The rear pocket pattern has the same origin than our “Sea Hunt” Spring 2014 Crew Pants.
The overall pattern of these pants is a mix between utilitarian and military. The N-1Z features a 40’s-type black oxidized cotton tape CONMAR zipper, a new contender soon to spice up the groin-zoom photo contest of our sizzling Instagram account, when it’s eventually brought up to speed.

The N-1Z deck pants are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Fabric milled and indigo-dyed  in Japan

Disclaimer: Please note that the photos are displaying my own (soaked and  slightly worn 4-5 times) pair of N-1Z. Production comes unwashed/unworn, of course.

SPECS

FABRIC:
* Durable 14 Oz. all cotton “Jungle Cloth”, indigo-dyed in a rich dark indigo blue shade. Milled and indigo-dyed in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage utility and military trousers, and Air Force flight suits.
* Patch pockets, front and rear.
* Zipper fly, vintage-type CONMAR, black oxidized color, cotton tape.
* Oxidized metal donut waist button.
* Waistband facing lined with Buzz Rickson’s USN-type chambray.
* Full flat-felled seam construction.
* 100% cotton stitching, black color.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/WASHING:
Our deck pants come raw/unwashed.
We recommend an original cold soak, spin dry cycle, line dry. These are intentionally not cut like skinny pants, and boiling them won’t change that. The N-1Z have a comfortable waist/leg fit. They will shrink to tagged size after the recommended original soak.
Color croaking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments such as white tucked-in undershirts. Indigo rub-off washes off eventually, this is the nature of the indigo beast.
When cleaning is needed, turn inside out and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Do not use a heat dryer. The jungle cloth is very durable and will resist washing machine cycles without a problem, but the indigo will react to excessive and unnecessary agitation by leaving unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out. The first years of care are important to guarantee a nice indigo wear patina.

Please refer to chart for cold soak/line dry measurements. Keep in mind that our cold soak method results in minimal shrinkage.

Mister Freedom Deck Pants N-1Z sizing chart

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist Sizes: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $449.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

‘Blouson de Quart’, khaki Jungle Cloth edition, “Sea Hunt” mfsc Collection Fall 2014

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Not now Kato!

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom Sea Hunt 2014

Waxed Mister Freedom Blouson de Quart, Jan 2016

Worn & waxed Mister Freedom® Blouson de Quart (Update Jan 2016)

Blouson de Quart“, Khaki Jungle Cloth edition
‘Sea Hunt’ mfsc Collection, Fall 2014

You are by now aware of our inclination for dressing up an occasional MF® piece in obscure foreign words. The reason for this is dual. It makes our conversations around the copy machine colorful, and give us a chance to appear educated.
So here we go again with this “Blouson de Quart“.

a what?

this what?

Some of the MF® old timers might remember the mfsc N-1H jacket (“H” was for hook), released sometime in 2008. It combined the design/color of several early USN deck jackets into a never-existed-but-could-have hybrid curiosity. Some today believe it did exist…
Because the garment industry has now flooded the Seas with reiterations of naval deck jackets, timing seemed perfect for not adding another drop to that ocean. And when timing is wrong, you can expect Mister Freedom® to barge in.

First Edition mfsc Deck Jacket, 2008

First Edition mfsc Deck Jacket, 2008

To everyone’s delight, we have tapped quite a bit into the “Marine Nationale” (the French Navy) for inspiration on our “Sea Hunt” adventures. Since the introduction of the Spring chapter in March 2014, fabrics and anecdotes have been freely adapted and borrowed from the world of the cols bleus. Encouragement, mostly in the form of emails to sales@misterfreedom.com starting with “If i never hear about his stint again, it’ll be too soon”, have kept us going.
So it won’t come as a surprise that the term “Blouson de Quart” refers to the winter jacket seafaring French sailors wore while on watch, as they assumed their ¼-workday duty.
Sometime in the 1960’s, the French Navy issued a  jacket very much lifted from the US Navy type N-1 deck jacket, the probable result of joined operations when a specific piece of uniform seen in action would appeal to the men of one fleet, creating a demand the Commissariat de la marine eventually addressed.
Scholars will correct me.
Also known as “Veste de pont“, both deck jackets shared a similar ‘jungle cloth’ type fabric, the French boasting its hydrofuge quality on the label (a dubious water and oil repellent claim). Although the shell was olive green in color, the Marine Nationale‘s version adopted the chocolate brown ‘dog-hair’ lining of the later alpaca-lined American N-1.

Vintage Marine Nationale veste de pont 60's 70's Vintage Marine Nationale veste de pont 60's 70's Commandant Charcot 1949 Courtesy Georges Gadioux USS Pumper Courtesy Serge Tilly Vendeen Courtesy Claude Hennard 1977

Photos of an additional French vintage veste de pont can be seen on this blog., featuring a hooded version flanked by the traditional “MN” anchor chest stencil.

Above vintage photos credits:
* Commandant Charcot 1949 photo Courtesy of  Georges Gadioux.
* On watch on the ‘USS Pumper’ Courtesy of Serge Tilly
* Foul weather on ‘Escorteur Rapide Vendeen’ Courtesy of Claude Hennard (1977)

UPDATES:
Artist and friend Patrick Segui hooked us up with some amazing photos of these jackets in action. Thanks Captain.
(All credits to the men who served, original owners of these photos, who hopefully won’t mind the respectful exposure.)

If our naval-inspired and aptly-named jacket shares its overall pattern with our “Naval Clothing Tailor” days N-1H, this Fall 2014 “Blouson de Quart” is its own beast, not a mere reissue of an out-of-stock jacket.
Back in 2008, navy blue jungle cloth fabric was quite a rare bird in the vintage world, which made it a perfect candidate for a mfsc jacket shell at the time. The vintage khaki version of that fabric had always been a more common flea market find, a bit ‘less special’ for us rag hounds.
But the coolness of original 1940’s USN-issued khaki deck jackets is undeniable. We’ve all seen those famous Newman or Dean shots. Old photos of 1950’s/60’s dock-working gangs are rarely not featuring one or two in the crowd.
I’ve had an old beat-up N-1 in my closet for years, and figured that a khaki jungle cloth coat was looong overdue in the MF® line-up of cold weather offerings.
So.
There it is.
Ze blouson de quart.

As mentioned, this is not a replica, and you’ll notice we spared you the indelible anchor chest stencil, or any kind of outer military markings for that matter. As much as I appreciate finding authentic vintage pieces with original custom unit stencils and original Armed Forces markings, I’ve always been a bit skeptical regarding USN/USMC/USAAF/… or any type of official military ‘tagging’ on civvy clothing, legit replica or fashion fling. But that’s just me.

Another touch of mfsc nostalgia applying to this jacket is the addition of “Liberty Cuffs” everyone is familiar with today. There was a ‘Liberty-issue’ denim Peacoat we made a while back, and we’re using that same good ol’ story for our “Blouson de Quart“.
“Liberty cuffs” were often a feature on custom-made crackerjacks American sailors ordered from local tailors, mostly while on tour in exotic Far-East locations. Concealed during duty, the cuffs were rolled while on liberty, ie. time off-base or off-ship. They showed how salty one was. Embroidered dragons, octopus, mermaids, eagles and other patriotic or humorous patches, matched with all kinds of colorful custom stitching of the garment’s lining, made for a good opening line while trying to convince bar ladies to join for a tour of the local museums…
Our “Sea Hunt” team member went with a classy sea D-cup creature. Please note that our mermaid patches are only sewn on three sides, in case you want to stick an emergency sawbuck or c-note in there.
For those interested in learning more about this specific naval tradition, the 2010 soft-cover book  “U.S. Navy Tailor-Made Dress Blues, Liberty Cuffs and Sailor Folk-Art” by SCPO Daniel D. Smith sheds light on what is fully spelled out in its title.

Back on shore.
Speaking of exotic destinations, our ‘Blouson de Quart’ will not exactly be the attire of choice for the atoll of Tetiaroa. This thing is W.A.R.M., and means business, Jack! The thick wool alpaca lining will do better under temperate climates than coconut trees.
As soft as this wool pile lining is, it is still wool and i’m allergic.  So we’ve opted to line the collar with 100% cotton corduroy, instead of the traditional N-1 dog skin that would keep me from wearing the jacket with a simple skivvy underneath.
If you’re into manufacturing anecdotes, this is one’s for you. If not, scroll down to the bad news, 9 c-notes.
If you’re still here, let’s mention that for our made-for-US batch, we opted to incorporate vintage 1930’s French NOS selvedge corduroy fabric (technically “Velour D’Amiens“, a now defunct very high quality wide wade corduroy used for work-wear and hunting coats). We had found some dusty yardage a while back, just enough to make a very limited batch of jackets with it. This didn’t make production easier for the factory, as the made-for-Japan jackets featured a different type of lighter corduroy, both in weight and color. But we got what we wanted, thanks to our hard-working friends at Toyo Enterprises.

Mister Freedom 2014

Vintage NOS French corduroy, collar of the ‘Blouson de Quart’

For the front closure, we combined the black-painted metal clip-hooks of the second type USN deck jackets with the solid TALON zipper of M-51 type field jackets. This heavy-duty black oxidized mil-specs zipper matches that three pounder of a coat (3.2 Lbs for a Medium!)
Both jacket and zipper should last a few cross-Atlantic cruises.

The mfsc “Blouson de Quart” is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS

FABRIC:
* Shell: Sturdy 14 Oz. all cotton “Jungle Cloth”, khaki color.
Please note that this fabric is a slightly heavier than the jungle cloth we originally used for both issues of our N-1H Deck Jacket.
* Lining: A warm soft-touch wool pile full lining, chocolate brown.
* Collar: 100% cotton corduroy.

DETAILS
* Freely inspired by vintage USN and Marine Nationale deck jackets, worn by 1940’s-1960’s sailors in foul weather conditions.
* Double front closure featuring 1940’s-type clip hooks and 1950’s-type mil-specs TALON zipper.
* Chin strap collar, 100% cotton corduroy lining, no-pain-in-the-neck guaranteed.
* Concealed chill-protectant wool knit cuffs.
* Liberty cuffed with mfsc mermaid patches.
* Synch-waist adjustment.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, corduroy lined.
* Olive color rot-proof poly-thread stitching.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/CARE:
This is highly unusual for us but we had these coats factory rinsed. NOT distressed, mind you, just professionally rinsed and gently tumble-dried. That way, the headache of the shrinkage guessing game doesn’t apply. Our Blouson de Quart is true to size. I wear a 38 in this coat, with room for a denim jacket or wool sweater underneath. Really skinny body types considering sizing down might have an issue with a tight arm opening. As with most non-bespoke garments, this jacket will not work on all body types, all body proportions and everyone’s personal aesthetics.

If you think it works for you however, do NOT wash this jacket in a home washing machine. You’ll first ruin said washing machine, risk getting the metal hooks snagged, get marbling marks on the fabric… at which point you’ll realize this is enough fun for a day, and you still need photos for eBay.

Your activities and frequency of wear will dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner.

We have measured the jacket to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric. The lining is about ¼ inch thick, which reduces the inside room by that much.

Blouson de Quart Mister Freedom 2014

Available delicately rinsed.
Sizes
36
Small
38
Medium
40
Large
42
X-Large
44
XX-Large
Retail $899.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

“PENSACOLA” Seaplane Jacket, Intermediate. Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s Special Edition

Pensacola-Montage

 

 

 

 

 

 

MFxBR “PENSACOLA Seaplane Jacket, Intermediate”
Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s 20th Anniversary Jacket
Fall 2013

We were honored to be involved with our friends at BUZZ RICKSON’S celebration of their 20th Anniversary this year.
To commemorate their dedication and passion at making outstanding mil-specs replica garments for two decades as a branch of Toyo Enterprises, Mr. Kameya (Buzz Rickson’s Skipper) give us carte blanche for a special limited edition piece, granting access to the entire BR catalog of trims/fabrics and expert manufacturing. Oh boy…

MF® came up with a simplified scenario to make this jacket ‘plausible’, aiming for solid and timeless, as the pieces that usually inspire us. After research and some hours on the drawing table, the MFxBR “Pensacola Seaplane Jacket” started shaping up:
The “Naval Air Station Pensacola” in Florida (NAS Pensacola) has been the cradle of Naval Aviation since WW1, where all involved personnel got to train (aviators, Navy flyers, Marines, ground crew, Officers, Seabees…). Read its rich history here.

Well, we had our name… now we just needed a jacket.
For the design, we imagined that a special test/prototype jacket had been developed by the Naval Air Factory (NAF), to be worn on Base and for training only. It combined vintage elements of Navy and Air Force issued jackets, and was adopted by crews of specific Joint Operations (involving Seaplanes, flyers and sea crews…)
We came up with a type of early Military flight jacket that could have existed. We blended decades of pre WW2 flight apparel History, freely borrowing from iconic mil-specs jackets and willingly mixing eras. Our inspiration came from:
* late 1920’s type A-1 leather jackets
* Late 1930’s “Jacket, flying, Intermediate, Jungle cloth” (OD jungle cloth/zipper/A-1 style knit collar)
* M-422 leather Jacket that replaced the jungle cloth in 1938 ( later to morph into Type G-1 jackets)…
* Our speculative imagination, vintage archives, NOS trims vault, and the usual added grain of salt.

USN-40s

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why navy and white? Well we figured these were not unpopular colors in the USN and USAAF, and this being an amphibious Op type garment it made sense. The corduroy lining is a nod to the hand-warmer pockets of early Peacoats, same specs and shade. The single layer waist band wool knit is that of Type M-422 Jackets, cuffs those of A-2 Jackets, but in natural color.

To spice it up we dug out an old stock of military ‘ring’ removable buttons. We were lucky to get our hands on some rare NOS composite white buttons, with an engraved anchor, in their original Gov’t issued packaging.

Anchor-white-Buttons-NOS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and expertly crafted in Japan by Buzz Rickson’s of Toyo Enterprises in a one-time limited edition.

In the US and EU, the MFxBR Pensacola Jacket is only available from Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFxBR pattern, inspired by vintage American mil-specs flight apparel.
FABRIC:
Body: 14 oz. all cotton “jungle cloth”, originally developed for the US Navy for its sturdiness/softness/strength/protection qualities while at sea under harsh conditions. Famous for its application in the USN Type N-1 deck jackets. Milled in Japan to exact period mil-specs.
Lining: Cotton mid wade corduroy.
DETAILS:
* Slim silhouette, one piece back.
* Mil-specs wool knit cuffs, waist band and collar band.
* Cotton corduroy full lining.
* Navy CPO shirt type anchor buttons collar fastening.
* A-1 type front flap patch pockets, with corduroy lining.
* Metal snap waist band closure.
* Detachable white composite anchor ring buttons for front closure, vintage military New Old Stock.
* Underarm venting metal eyelets.
* Original Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s double labeling and ‘contract’ tag, a nod to early USAAF ‘modified’ flying gear.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.

WASH/SIZING:
The ‘Pensacola’ runs true to size. I am usual a medium/38 in MFSC coats and jackets, and wear a size 38 in this jacket.
We recommend professional eco-friendly dry cleaning when needed. Remove the ring buttons before cleaning (they unhook from the metal ring of the button by rotating the fastener from the under side). Store them and don’t lose them!
The jacket is also hand washable, in cold water, if really needed. Hang dry only.
The 100% cotton jungle cloth is sanforized and some minimal shrinkage and ‘torquing’ will occur if washed.

Please refer to sizing chart below for raw/rinsed measurements (‘rinsed’ = soaked in cold water for 30mn, spin dry and hang dry). Original rinsing is optional and for reference only.

Pensacola-Sizing-Photo-Chart

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Available RAW (unwashed)

Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (Xlarge), 44 (XXlarge)
Retail $699.95

Please call 323-653-2014 or Email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. Available from Mister Freedom® HQ in Los Angeles, and from our online store.
Thank you all 😉

(Note: The painted jacket in the photo was just a custom prototype we did for BUZZ RICKSON’S 20th Anniversary party. Production comes WITHOUT any graphics, of course)

 

Mister Freedom® MFSC Deck Jacket Type N-1H “Troy” Issue

MFSC Deck Jacket Troy issue "N-1Hmd"

N-1-H-md-(2)N1Htroy-(2) N1Htroy-(4) N1Htroy-(5) N1Htroy-(6)

We figured it was the perfect 92  degree day here in sunny Los Angeles to be dropping the 2010 MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE MFSC Fall line!
We’ll start heavy with our modified type N-1H “Troy” Deck Jacket. We re-issued that winner because we can’t get enough of it…

SPECS:
* PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern inspired by 1940’s US Navy deck gear, combining elements of early deck jackets, MFSC way.
* FABRIC: 14 oz. all cotton “jungle cloth”, originally developed for the US Navy for its sturdiness/softness/strength/protection qualities while at sea under harsh conditions. Milled to exact 1940’s US Mil specs. Navy Colour. All wool knit cuffs and stand up collar.
* LINING: Reprocessed wool “Troy” blanket, stripe.
* TRIMS: Silver “Hookless” zipper and black metal USN hook clasps closing the wind flap.
* INNER LAYER: An original 1940’s US Navy issued gear feature, a cotton ‘organdy’ wax coated layer, for wind proofing (the creaking noise will disappear after a few days of wear)
* Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® , manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.

Available one rinse
Size 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail $869.95

Call John at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.

Mister Freedom x Sugar Cane: MFSC “Mulholland Master”

Sharp, sharp! The Master! The Master!

MFSC Mulholland Master

 

 

 

MF S/c “MULHOLLAND MASTER” By Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane

“Speed Safe Clothing for Modern Riders”, Fall 2009 Collection

 American riding jackets were predominantly made out of leather since the 1930’s, which proved unpractical in wet and muddy environments, such as off road riding and rainy conditions. They were also mostly shorter waist cut.

Influenced by military patterns, British motorcycle clothing manufacturers (such as Barbour International, Belstaff etc) adapted military field/air jackets to produce riding coats suitable for wet and cold conditions, creating the typical “International” style soon sported by riders around the world. Professional motorcyclists also adopted that style, as seen with the 1964 ISDT American Olympic Team outfits, featuring Steve McQueen as one of the official US Trial riders.

Photo ©1964 Dieter Demme

Photo ©1964 Dieter Demme

The MF S/c “Speed Safe” clothing Fall 2009 collection includes an original cotton rider’s jacket: The “Mulholland Master”, taking it’s name from one of Los Angeles favorite Highway for motorcycle riders and automotive speedsters and cruisers.

The MF S/c “MULHOLLAND MASTER” pattern is inspired by vintage 1960s British Motorcycle riding gear (such as the classic Barbour Int’l A7 jacket), 1940’s US Paratrooper jackets and other military coats. It combines modified patterns, US military hardware and original MF S/c detailing to create a unique ‘ultimate’ winter coat suitable for riding and other outdoor activities.

Due to the use of vintage and “new-old stock” components, it is made in limited quantities.

Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and produced in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.

SPECS of the MF S/c MULHOLLAND MASTER:

Fabric: Originally developed for the US Navy and officially called “Jungle Cloth”. A sturdy 100% cotton ‘gros grain’ type cloth, tightly woven for wind proofing and with water repellent qualities. It can be individually waxed with adequate wax dressing, to add to the water proofing quality. Originally natural white, the fabric is piece dyed in ‘chocolate brown’ shade, an original MF S/c color. Guaranteed to beautify with wear. Preshrunk with gentle rinse.

Lining: The body lining is 100% cotton wide wale corduroy, midnight blue color, for warmth. The inner arms lining is a “new/old stock” plaid HBT cotton fabric, found in limited quantities in a warehouse in Los Angeles.

Hardware: Sturdy FIOCCHI metal snaps (the original manufacturer of Italian military snaps, along with their cousin counterpart Company DEWEY), painted black.

The front zipper is a 1930’s style “Hookless” type, with HBT cotton taping.

The wind flap is secured by 1940’s USN “deck jacket” type black metal hooks.

The metal buckles used for the throat strap and belt (police type garrison buckle) are “new/old stock” US hardware.

Underarms venting metal eyelets.

Body: ¾ length, comfortable fit.

For maps/tools/documents: four front snap flap rainproof pockets and one back snap flap pocket. Top right pocket closed by hidden “Conmatic” zipper. All pockets lined with plaid HBT fabric.

One inside chest pocket.

Diamond elbow patches, US Air Force style.

Adjustable gusset wrist snap closures.

Leather windproof  inside zipper-cover flap.

Removable throat cover snap-on flap.

The belt can be attached in the back, when not in use.

Construction: Single needle construction, sturdy double stitching.

100% cotton thread, navy blue color.

(Rinsed, Size 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44. Retail $899.95)
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to order yours. We ship world wide.