Mister Freedom® M-17 Parka, indigo-dyed jungle cloth, mfsc “Surplus” catalog FW 2017.

 

Mister Freedom® “M-17 Parka”, indigo-dyed jungle cloth.
MF® “SURPLUS” mfsc Fall 2017.
Made in Japan.

This is the third addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. Basically, the MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog.
After tripping to the moon with the smashing Apollo ’69 Sukajan, after cruising in style down the 101 with the indigo Jungle Riders, here is a number for upcoming foul weather days.
Design-wise, we adapted the pattern of a vintage US Air Force-issued M-47 “Overcoat, Parka Type”, molding it into a practical, unlined civvy garment, blending military, nautical and utilitarian outdoorsy vibes. Having turned the classic Olive Drab 1947 model into a 2017 garment, we simply named it “M-17 Parka”.

The choice of indigo-dyed jungle cloth for the shell became obvious after witnessing how this handsome fabric evolves overtime, with normal wear and exposure to the elements. Before the recently-released Jungle Riders, this same fabric was featured on two MF® oldies, the Mulholland Master and Blouson de Quart of our 2016 tenth Anniversary collection. Promising evo shots should be emerging on the social media in a few winters…
We opted for green contrasting trim accents, with the web belt, stitching, 1940’s-style Mil-Specs crown zipper tape, and olive corrozzo buttons. The hand-warming slash pockets feature beige corduroy pocket bags, a reference to vintage WW2 USN peacoats.

Those into waxing their gear for weatherproofing, or for the rugged aesthetics, can do so with Otter Wax or natural bees wax. Do consider that this would not only be a no-turning-back commitment, but a real endeavor considering the size of the fabric panels to be waxed… I will personally leave my M-17 in its original condition and let the indigo do its thing for a while. Then again I live in Southern California, where rains only briefly interfere with drought alerts…

The “M-17 Parka” is re-designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
A tightly woven 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, the notorious shell fabric of 1940’s USN deck jackets, dyed to a deep and dark indigo shade.
Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by the classic olive drab US Air Force-issued M-47 “Overcoat, Parka Type”.
* Unlined body.
* Hood lined with fine indigo-dyed cotton popeline.
* Heavy-duty 1940’s-style US military spring-loaded “CROWN” zipper replica.
* Two large patch pockets with flap closure, and two hand-warming slash pockets featuring beige corduroy bags.
* Corrozzo wood buttons.
* OD Cotton web belt, removable, featuring an authentic made-in-USA USMC Mil. Specs. powder-coated metal buckle.
* Inside OD cotton tape piping, no open/overlocked seams.
* Olive green contrast stitching.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® M-17 Parka comes raw/unwashed and we recommend an initial 30mn cold soak, spin dry and hang dry.
I opted for a comfortable size Medium, my usual size in mfsc jackets, anticipating layering it with other garments comes winter. Note that I could fit into a size Small with a light shirt, slimmer silhouette but no layering possible.

DISCLAIMER: Color crocking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments worn as under layers. Indigo rub-off should wash-off eventually. However, because it is unlined, do not wear a white shirt or light color jacket directly under the M-17 Parka.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CARE
When cleaning is required, turn inside out, unzipped and unbuttoned, and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Expect heavy indigo crocking is to be expected, wash separately from all other garment. Due to the bulkiness of this garment, and its weight when soaked, we do not recommend using a home washing machine. This will potentially ruin both the M-17 Parka and your washing machine. Additionally, excessive and unnecessary agitation will leave unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out.
Do not use a heat dryer, hang dry instead.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Retail $899.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® “Jungle RIDERS”, indigo-dyed jungle cloth, “SURPLUS” mfsc FW2017

Mister Freedom® “Jungle RIDERS”, indigo-dyed jungle cloth.
MF® “SURPLUS” mfsc Fall 2017.
Made in Japan.

Back by popular demand!
We introduced our “RIDERS” pattern around 2009, as part of the “Speedsafe Clothing For Modern Riders” mfsc capsule collection.
Originally released in “Okinawa 301” denim (Riders Dungarees), these trousers were later issued in khaki chino twill (Chino Riders) and indigo midnight twill (Midnight Riders).

This fall, we are adding the RIDERS’ pattern to our recently-announced MF® “SURPLUS” line-up. This 2017 updated version boasts a new skin, a deep dark indigo-dyed jungle cloth, same luscious fabric already featured on two MF® classics, the Mulholland Master and Blouson de Quart of our 2016 tenth Anniversary collection.
To simplify hemming issues, we have removed the ankle pockets. Pocketing is made from a sturdy Mil-Specs USMC vintage-style HBT fabric, courtesy of Buzz Rickson’s. The wide rear belt loop however, special plumber’s edition, is still there.

The “Jungle RIDERS” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
The notorious shell fabric of 1940’s USN deck jackets, a tightly woven 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs. Deep and dark indigo shade.
Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
Pocketing: Mil-Specs USMC vintage-style HBT fabric, Olive Drab, 100% cotton. Milled in Japan for Buzz Rickson’s.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage utilitarian pants, military fatigues and gentlemen trousers.
* Comfortable straight leg silhouette.
* Reinforcement stitching on waistband.
* Metal donut “wreath” buttons, flat black.
* Suspender buttons.
* Watch pocket.
* Side cinch straps, with military-style cinch buckles.
* Wide rear belt loop, special plumber’s edition.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Back pockets ‘sandwiched’ in side seams, Never Rippum-style.
* Tonal stitching.
* Original mfsc “SURPLUS” rayon woven label sewn inside waistband.
* Made in japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Jungle RIDERS come unwashed and will shrink to tagged size after an initial 30mn cold soak/spin dry/line dry process.
These are true-to-size and we recommend getting your measured-waist size.
I am usually between a W30 and W32 in mfsc trousers, and opted for a W32 in the Riders. The waist of the W30 is too tight on me, and the W32 fits comfortably, albeit with a fuller silhouette in the leg.

DISCLAIMER: Color croaking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments such as white tucked-in undershirts. Indigo rub-off will wash-off eventually.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CARE
When cleaning is required, turn inside out and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Do not use a heat dryer.

The jungle cloth fabric is quite durable and will sure resist a washing machine delicate cycle, but the indigo will react to excessive and unnecessary agitation by leaving unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out. The first years of care are important to guarantee a nice and natural wear patina.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28
W30
W32
W34
W36
W38
Retail $449.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Mister Freedom Type N-1H Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth edition, Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

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Mister Freedom® Type N-1H mfsc Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth edition
Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

We are dropping another heavy hitter this season, a foul weather contender in the Fall 2016 Anniversary Collection celebrating ten years of fun collaborations with our friends at Sugar Cane Co and Buzz Rickson’s (Toyo Enterprises).
This jacket will be our fifth iteration of the iconic military naval “Deck Jacket”, now-familiar to heritage fashion circles. Check out the MF® chronological timeline, summarized while introducing the indigo version of our “Blouson De Quart” (a reference to the French Marine Nationale deck jacket).

This N-1H Anniversary issue is a nod to our original model, released in 2008 during the early nautical adventures of the MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” collection. Our first N-1H (the added H was for hook), issued in navy blue jungle cloth and wool blanket-lined, was a hybrid of several Government-issued foul weather jackets. Its design mixed periods and specs of vintage 1940’s and 50’s US Navy deck jackets, sought-after collectibles today.

The Fall 2016 edition of the Type N-1H Deck Jacket’s specs are similar to those of its 2008 predecessor. One stand-out difference is the shell color. We opted for a black 100% cotton grow grain jungle cloth, complimented by an attractive heather dark navy blue wool lining. This soft-hand lining (a non-itchy blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon) is backed by an inner rayon fabric layer, a reference to the crunchy wax-coated organdy layer of early USN deck jackets. Please note that we went for a ‘quieter’ wind-proofing material for this issue, as the crinkly noise of our 2008 model tended to interfere with sound mix on movie sets!

The 2016 N1-H performs pretty much as its predecessors did, i.e. appropriate for moderately-cold weather. We wanted an in-between season garment with this deck jacket, rather than a full-on winter coat such as the recently-released alpaca-lined indigo Blouson De Quart.
According to your tolerance level of cold temperatures, the black N-1H might not be a good choice for prolonged exposure to extreme winter conditions while in the field. There are better options out there if you’re planning to take on the Everest. However, with appropriate layering, you’ll be fine for chilly winter evenings in California and under other mild temperate climates.

On a side note, if I personally plan on leaving my indigo Blouson de Quart as-is and let a natural indigo color patina develop over time, I might wax my black N-1H in the near future, for partial waterproofing and for the rather interesting resulting leathery effect.

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Waxed MF® khaki Blouson de Quart, 2014.

The Type N-1H Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth issue, 2016 mfsc Anniversary edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS
FABRIC:

* Shell: Solid 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, black 100% cotton grosgrain fabric, period mil-specs, milled in Japan.
* Body Inner Lining: 100% rayon fabric wind-proofing concealed layer.
* Lining: Soft hand, non-itchy blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon fabric.

DETAILS:
* Freely inspired by 1940’s-1950’s vintage US Navy foul weather-type deck jackets issued to enlisted naval personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks. 
* Full lining, soft-hand wool/nylon blend.
* ‘Silent’ inner wind-proofing layer, 100% rayon fabric.
* 100% wool knit collar and cuffs, navy blue color.
* Synch hip adjustment string.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Underarm ventilating eyelets.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Limited Ten Year Anniversary Edition.
* Double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven labels.
* No outside military markings.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
We had these jackets professionally rinsed. NOT distressed, but gently rinsed and tumble-dried. No shrinkage guessing.
Our black edition N-1H is pre-shrunk, and true to size. I wear a comfortable 38 in this coat, with room for a thick shirt or wool sweater underneath.
Like most ready-to-wear garments not made from stretch fabric or cut as a poncho, our N-1H might not satisfy everyone’s body type expectations. In general, the consensus is to go with your usual size in mfsc jackets.
We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric.

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CARE:
Please DO NOT attempt to wash this jacket in a home washing machine! You risk ruining both machine and jacket. The N1-H weights quite a bit when wet, the metal hooks will get snagged, the black jungle cloth fabric will get marbling marks etc…
IMPORTANT: Treat your zipper as you would a vintage one, rub wax to lubricate at times, and use common sense rather that brute force to zip and unzip, making sure tabs line-up when zipping.
Activities and frequency of wear will obviously dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning, or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner. This jacket can also be hand-washed in a tub filled with cold water. Use eco-friendly detergent for delicate colors. Hang to dry.

Available rinsed/pre-shrunk.
Sizes
36
Small
38
Medium
40
Large
42
X-Large
44
XX-Large
Retail $799.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016

Mister Freedom ‘Blouson de Quart’, indigo-dyed jungle cloth issue, Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

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CL Marine Nationale, Indian Ocean (1986)

“Blouson de Quart”, indigo jungle cloth issue
Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

Moving along with our Fall 2016 Anniversary Collection, marking ten years of collaborations with our friends at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprises).
Here is a popular classic pattern we have been playing with for years: the USN Deck Jacket, aka N-1.

Our version is not a period replica, those being abundantly available today from various brands, but rather our twist on several vintage Government-issued foul weather jackets. Freely mix-matching models and types from the US Navy and Marine Nationale (French Navy) of the 1940’s through 1960’s, we released the first iteration in 2008, the original Type N-1H deck jacket of our 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” early mfsc adventures. The Type N-1H never existed as a USN-issued garment, but after mixing deck jacket models for our original design, we simply added the “H” of hook to “N-1” for the name.
A Troy blanket-lined version followed for Fall 2010, the Type N-1H “Troy” issue. Vintage Navy deck coats were so popular at the time that  J.Crew even picked up some of ours to spice-up their menswear catalog.
In 2014, the “Sea Hunt” collection featured yet another twist on the pattern, the Blouson de Quart, in mil-specs khaki jungle cloth. (The original blog post features some old French Navy photos that inspired this version.)

For Fall 2016, we thought of a new deck jacket hybrid model, a modified indigo-dyed N1-H/Blouson de Quart . If we had made use of indigo jungle cloth in the past (N-1Z Deck Pants), we really wanted a darker shade of indigo for this Anniversary event. We made a special request to the textile experts at Sugar Cane Co and, as always, they delivered.

At the prototype stage, we found the color mix of that deep indigo blue and the chocolate brown alpaca so attractive that we went full alpaca lining, body and collar.

Made from high quality (period mil-specs) fabrics, our deck jacket is solid and quite warm, as they were originally intended to be, to keep sailors protected from the cold and damp marine air while on deck duty.
Please note that more recent R&D has concluded that layering is a key requisite to shield from the cold. Modern military-issued field gear typifies this evolution, and bulky garments are now obsolete and have been replaced by lighter hi-tech clothing worn in layers.

The mfsc “Blouson de Quart” in indigo jungle cloth is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

NOTE: For production, both MF® and “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” woven labels are sewn separately, not overlapping. Above photos are of an early show sample.

SPECS
FABRIC:
* Shell: Tight weave 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, dark indigo blue, milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
* Lining: Warm, non-itchy, soft-touch wool pile alpaca full lining, chocolate brown color, vintage mil-specs.

DETAILS:
* Freely inspired by 1940’s-1960’s vintage US Navy and French Marine Nationale foul weather-type deck jackets issued to enlisted personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks.
* Full lining, vintage USN-style chocolate brown wool pile alpaca.

* Alpaca stand collar, chin strap.
* Concealed chill-protectant wool knit cuffs.
* Synch adjustment string.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Limited Ten Year Anniversary Edition.
* No outside military markings.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
We had these jackets professionally rinsed. NOT distressed, but gently rinsed and tumble-dried.
Our indigo jungle cloth Blouson de Quart is pre-shrunk, and true to size. I wear a comfortable 38 in this coat, with room for a denim jacket or wool sweater underneath. Please note that I am wearing a Fletcher L/S T-shirt, a chambray Patrol Shirt, a CPO Shirt 189ac and a Cowboy Jacket on the fit pic. Toasty.

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We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric. The lining is about ¼ inch thick, which reduces the inside room by that much.

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CARE:
Please DO NOT try to wash this jacket in a home washing machine! You risk ruining both machine and jacket. The Blouson de Quart weights a ton when wet, the metal hooks will get snagged, the indigo-dyed fabric will get marbling marks etc…

Activities and frequency of wear will dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner. The jacket can also be hand-washed in a tub filled with cold water. Use eco-friendly detergent for delicate colors. Hang to dry.
With normal wear and outside exposure, the indigo-dyed jungle cloth fabric will develop an attractive patina.

Available rinsed/pre-shrunk.
Sizes
36
Small
38
Medium
40
Large
42
X-Large
44
XX-Large
Retail $949.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016

Mister Freedom x Sugar Cane mfsc 10 Year Anniversary Collection preview, Fall 2016

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Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc
10 Year Anniversary Collection
Fall 2016

Dear Friends,

To mark ten prolific years of collaborations with our friends at Toyo Enterprises (i.e. Sugar Cane Co) this Fall 2016, we have decided to revive some pattern oldies, and to have fun with a few mfsc bygone goodies along the ride! Some of you might remember the original versions from our early days, pre-iPhone and pre-Facebook, but most will just discover them as new timeless garments.
Note: One of the jacket coming out this fall is a brand new collaboration with Tailor Toyo, in the footsteps of our popular “Party Jacket“, the limited edition “Mururoa Jacket”…

Each one of these pieces is a manufacturing tour de force, from limited run fabric looming, deep dark tone indigo dyeing, to the actual precise cut and sew process. This compact, no filler Anniversary collection is masterfully crafted in Japan by the Sugar Cane Co usual network of skilled workers, expert artisans and family-run secret factories. We at Mister Freedom® are all grateful and blessed to have been involved with such fine company since 2006, when a hand shake and a Gentlemen’s agreement sealed the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane on-going collaboration, somewhat still of a UFO in the world of fashion. Mina Sama, Okagesama de!

If our MF® Fall 2016 Sportsman collection has already been fully completed this year, the above mfsc Anniversary collection will get to us… when it gets to us. We have always preferred to have our clothes made right and well, rather than cheap and fast.

Over the years, some of you have lived, worked, slept, sailed, swam, camped, gotten married, found jobs, built motorcycles, partied, travelled on horseback, performed on stage, raced, hung from canopies… in our gear. This sure makes us happy, as we don’t design ‘em to stay in closets.
We hope to have contributed in making you look your best, feeling like a natural-born world-shaker at times, and we will strive to continue doing so, our way.

Thank you all for your support, magnanimity and patience for the past decade or so.

Sincerely,

The MF® Team.

Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions or to reserve a specific garment/size.
Stay tuned on the social media for ETA notifications.