Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.64 LHT. NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left-Hand Twill selvedge denim. mfsc Sportman catalog SS2020. Made in USA.
We named our popular classic five-pocket jeans the “Californian” because they are made in California, USA. The MF® Californiancomes in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674. The Californian family grows every season (see recent timeline here), often according to how lucky we get scoring interesting New Old Stock denims.
The first installment of mfsc Spring 2020 is the Californian LOT.64 LHT. This edition features an attractive and quite rare 13 Oz. left-hand twill denim, milled in Greensboro, N.C., by the legendary Cone Mills.
LHT weave is distinct from its more commun right-hand counterpart, as it displays a wale diagonally-going from left to right, as opposed to, you guessed it, right to left. Those familiar with vintage Lee® jeans will relate to this specific weave, as LHT denim has been the fabric of choice for many H.D. Lee classics, such as their iconic 101-J, Storm Rider jacket or Rider Jeans.
Left-hand twill denims come with their specificities, including a tightly-wound indigo warp (resulting in a softer hand), and a white weft more prevalent on the face (resulting in a lighter shade of denim fabric). Fading properties also differ, and well-worn LHT denim tends to display less high contrast than RHT. However, connoisseurs and lucky owners of authentic vintage faded Lee® specimen will attest to the very attractive subtle patina. In all honesty, we haven’t had time to “beat-up” a Lot.64 LHT yet, but the HQ will keep everyone posted.
The pocket bags are cut from a fancy indigo/white woven plaid NOS fabric.
The Lot.64 pattern is our most popular cut, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise, a silhouette inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist. If our 64 pattern has been fairly consistant throughout the years, the specific drape/weight/color of each denim does alter the silhouette of each model. Visually, this season’s NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. LHT release has a slightly more generous leg than the recently-issued 16 Oz. Midnight denim Lot.64 MD. The fit is somewhat closer to our Lot.54 than other Lot.64s, so please consider sizing down if you are set on the usual Lot.64 silhouette, and if the rinsed measurements work for you.
The Californian LOT.64 LHT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from NOS American denim fabric.
SPECS: FABRIC: New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo Left-Hand Twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID. Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton indigo/white woven plaid fabric.
DETAILS: * Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise. * Button fly. * Selvedge leg outseam. * NOS indigo/white woven plaid 100% cotton pocketing. * MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets. * Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket. * Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents. * Coin pocket with concealed selvedge. * Selvedge buttonhole fly placket. * Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching. * Unlined rear pockets. * Original MF® silver-color ‘oxidized’ metal cast waist/fly tack buttons. * Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement. * Original MF® paper pocket flasher (red). * Made in USA
SIZING/FIT: All the Californian blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will technically shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry and line dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
This specific Californian Lot.64 LHT edition is cut with a generous waist (referred to as “vanity sizing”), and a rinsed W32 will end-up measuring closer to 33 inches. The Waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit.
I opted for a W31 with this model (my current size in MF® Californians), for a comfortable top block and generous straight leg silhouette. The resulting fit is closer to that of the Lot.54BB than our classic Lot.64. I personally could have gone down to a W30, but decided to stick to W31.
For those partial to the usual slimmer silhouette of the 64s, and should the rinsed measurements work out, consider sizing down on the LOT.64 LHT. As with all denim twills, subtle shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please note that, for this model, soaking in hot water or using an electric clothes dryer will hardly result in extra shrinkage after the initial cold soak. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. (soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)
CARE: Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry. Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY. Sizes W28 x L32 W29 x L32 W30 x L32 W31 x L32 W32 x L34 W33 x L34 W34 x L34 W36 x L36 W38 x L36
Californian Lot.64, and “Safe-T-Flash” reflector belt from VEB Leather.
“CALIFORNIAN” Lot.64 Blue Jeans, Made in USA
Mister Freedom® mfsc Sportsman 2013
The “CALIFORNIAN” is back.
We know the World needs another pair of jeans as much as it needs a third international major conflict, but we did it anyways.
Unlike the rest of the denim jeans out there boasting the intimidating “Highest Quality”, “World’s Best Denim” and “Unequaled Craftsmanship”, our Californian is simply a pair of five-pocket jeans cut from good denim, and made in Los Angeles, California.
Just like the fine folks coming up with iPhone OS, we like to fix what’s not broken around here, so, although related to our original Lot.54, the Lot.64 comes with a few modifications:
The denim we are using this time is a Japanese selvedge 13 3/4 Oz. indigo twill, milled on shuttle looms in Japan.
This white/pink selvedge ID denim is both slubby in texture and varies in color slightly. This is due to the contrasting shades of indigo and fluctuating size of the warp yarn. From a certain angle, the raw denim appears to have a subtle vertical stripe pattern or ring. With proper wear and normal washing this denim will develop a very nice patina. Wear and patina will obviously depend on your activities, with varied results according to whether you’ll be riding a desk or a horse.
Unlike the Lot.54, the leather back pocket patch now bears no branding and is left to the discretion of the wearer to customize or leave alone. The original white “M” pocket stitch is still there, keeping back pockets a bit more conspicuous than the Bayeux Tapestry type ornaments I see at times…
The back pockets of the Lot.64 are fully lined with the same fabric used for the pocket bags.
We added a printed cloth waist patch, already introduced on our Buckaroos blue jeans (so now you know what was hiding under the MF branded leather patch 😉 This cloth patch will fade, get dirty from your belt and eventually tear with repeat wear and wash.
Of more relevance to most is the slight change in leg silhouette of the Lot.64. versus Lot.54.
No, we still haven’t fallen to the dark side and made a skinny in a ‘vintage wash‘…
Instead adjusted the pattern so that the leg of the Lot.64 is slightly more sixties-ish, a bit more tapered in the lower part.
We also have decided to still offer the Lot.64 in two different length, not a very common feature these days, when ‘stacking’ is the norm. So, less need to worry about locating a Union Special for a hemming job.
I like the look of original hems and leg shape on old Levi’s 501s. Because several inseams were available, some tended to purchase their appropriately fitting length instead of cuffing or cutting. An old XX with its original hem has the very pleasant leg shape balance than seems to often lack when jeans are altered.
For the Californian, we have made TWO leg patterns, one for inseam 32 and one for inseam 34, and not merely shortened the length. This way the leg retains its shape (slightly ‘ballooning’.) This sounds like a lot of efforts for not much, but those who get it will appreciate. Of course this is all irrelevant if you’re into big cowboy-cuffs.
For pocketing, we are using two different types of New Old Stock fabrics, both indigo woven plaids. Similar in weight but different in pattern. The pocket bags are random and a specific plaid is not available in all waist/inseam. We just used up what was at hand, another “it-is-what-it-is” MF® funky way of doing it.
Designed and made in Los Angeles, California, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Please note that some of the photos show my own Californian Lot.64, worn on/off for about 3 months, rinsed twice. Production comes RAW, unwashed and NOT distressed.
The “Safe-T-Flash” reflector belt I am wearing in one of the photos is an original VEB Leather belt, hand crafted by USMC Master Sergeant Villanueva of Vintage Engineer Boots blog fame. Amazing craftsmanship on all his creations, made right were he is currently stationed. See some of them here and contact him directly for custom orders, from guitar straps to belts and wallets…
Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist. Adapted but shamelessly lifted from the iconic and almighty XX 501.
Silhouette inspired by vintage fits and old photography, BRMC meets Beatniks. Traditional mid-rise with straight slightly tapered leg.
13 3/4 Oz. selvedge Right Hand Twill indigo denim. White/pink selvedge ID. Milled on shuttle looms in Japan. (aka SC1966)
POCKETING NOS 100% cotton woven plaid, indigo dyed yarn. Two different woven patterns, as they come.
* Five pocket, button fly, selvedge leg seams,…
* Original “M” stitch design and solid un-branded cowhide leather patch.
* Printed MFSC cloth patch on waist band.
* Hidden back pocket rivets with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Fully lined back pocket with NOS woven plaid twill.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Twelve types of all cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Selvedge button hole flap (yes, it’s under the overlock, we’re vicious.)
* Two inseam options. 32 or 34
* NOS all cotton woven plaid pocket lining.
* Original MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
*Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Made in USA
The Californian Lot.64 comes UN-WASHED and cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an original cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian” actually measures about 34” x 36½” before wash. It will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear a comfortable tagged waist 32 in the Lot.64
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Although some like to wear their jeans raw, a more common option is the cold rinse/line dry/wear-when-damp. This allows to set creases and to have a stand-by-themselves pair of jeans the next day, an Instagram favorite.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/rinsed measurements. Please note that in our case, ‘rinsed’ means a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie minimal shrinkage).
W28 x L32 and L34
W29 x L32 and L34
W30 x L32 and L34
W31 x L32 and L34
W32 x L32 and L34
W33 x L32 and L34
W34 x L32 and L34
W36 x L32 and L34
W38 x L32 and L34 Retail $329.95
Mister Freedom® MFSC ‘BUCKAROOS’ Waist Overalls, made in USA.
‘Men of the Frontier’ Collection, Fall 2012
Introducing our humble contribution to the crowded World of blue jeans this season, the 6th installment of our ongoing “Men of the Frontier” saga, the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC “BUCKAROOS” Waist Overalls.
The term ‘buckaroo’ has its commonly agreed on origin in the late 1800s days of the American Frontier, when Spanish settlers were heard calling cowboys and ranch hands vaqueros. For those not familiar with the Spanish language, the anglicized version and phonetic spelling caught on.
The silhouette of our Buckaroos is similar to that of our Californian Blue Jeans Lot54 and Lot44, with a very slightly narrower bottom part of the leg. As always, those blue jeans are NO skinnies, as we leave that desirable look to other jeans makers. The silhouette references can be seen on vintage cow puncher and vaqueros imagery from the fascinating photographic works of Arthur Rothstein, Russell Lee and other FSA appointed documentalists.
(below photos courtesy of Library of Congress)
Our Buckaroos blue jeans are not cut from a classic ‘five pocket’ typical pattern, since we thought that cow had been milked and needed some rest for now.
We have chosen to use two types of New Old Stock American milled denim, found in a local dusty warehouse, making the production of the Buckaroos limited to small batches. The two different selvedge denim twills are referred to as B2 and B5.
The labeling story behind the Buckaroos double branding comes from a Ranch foreman purchasing his wranglers their denim jeans from the local maker. The jeans were then identified as Ranch property by stitching a branded leather label on top of the maker’s patch…
Don’t look that story up as I made it up, but here is a little homemade clip of the fun branding process, if you are bored to death.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
PHOTOGRAPHY NOTES: The photos above are a mix of buckaroos in RAW condition (that’s how they come), one rinse, and my personal worn pair (on and off for about 3-4 months, not for sale.)
The featured photo is a ‘making of’ teaser of a shoot directed by talented photographer Matt Hind, from the mighty fine MEN’S FILE publication. Don’t miss Issue 08, a special on denim & workwear, coming out in January 2013, with the REAL photos of that session…
Additionally, in this month’s CLUTCH Magazine (another fine new publication, from the Editor of the Japanese legendary LIGHTNING Magazine, Mr. Atsushi Matsushima), the buckaroos are featured, motion picture style! Spaghetti Western meets Manga.
And now, the long overdue…
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by western slacks, vintage denim dungarees and old imagery.
Two options of raw New Old Stock American milled denim twill, indigo dyed, 3×1, selvedge. B2: Dark indigo dyed selvedge denim, about 12+ Oz. Sanforized. Somewhat of a 1950’s feel to it. B5: Indigo dyed selvedge denim, about 11 Oz. Width shrinkage from 3 to 5%. Lighter in weight than B2, with an early work wear fabric type feel.
Pocket lining: 100% cotton NOS woven plaid twill, indigo/white (two similar types, shown in above photo gallery)
DETAILS: * ‘Old West’ silhouette, revisited.
* Original front pocket with folding buttoned flap. Reinforcement un-marked copper riveting.
* Original MFSC upper curved cinch back strap, sandwiched in the back yoke, riveted.
* Wider rear belt loops, to fit your concha belt.
* Metal donut crest buttons, ‘old stock’ finish.
* Concealed rivets on back pockets with original “M” stitch and slightly curved opening.
* Original double labeling. One printed cloth label with original artwork mounted during construction, partially superimposed by a leather patch with “MF” hot branding.
* All 100% cotton color thread. We are using an original MFSC combination of 12 types of gauge/color thread per pair. Main colors are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* All cotton New Old Stock woven plaid pocket bags.
PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original ‘finer than frog hair’ artwork. Please re-use.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE: Both denim options come raw/unwashed and will shrink to approximately the same proportions. Both fabrics will shrink from approximately 1% to 5%, depending on the specific lot number of the milled batch. Variations are beyond our control and inherent to shuttle loom machinery inconsistency, and to the ‘risky biz’ of using (often un-labeled) NOS denim.
Stamped sizes on the cloth patch are the POST RINSE/DRY measurements.
We recommend an original cold soak, no agitation, spin dry and line dry.
See chart bellow for approximate measurements.
Available RAW/unwashed (again, the photos of the used jeans above are just for reference, and NOT how they will come) SIZES: (= marked and post shrink) Waist x Length 28 x 32 29 x 32 30 x 32 31 x 32 32 x 34 33 x 34 34 x 34 36 x 34 38 x 34
Call 323-653-2014 or mail email@example.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Señoras y Caballeros, thank you for the support, always.
Here is the final installement (5 of 5) of Mister Freedom® latest Collection entitled “American Sportswear”. Introducing the CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans, Lot.44
Same drill than with the Ranch Blouse, we have selected some New Old Stock selvedge denim from our archives to make the Californian Lot.44
Cut and sew has been a challenge, as previously mentioned, but we are happy with the results. One “five pocket” pattern in about 35 different denim… 28” to 33” width old shuttle loom made selvedge denim, collected throughout years of warehouses digging. Origin Japan and USA. Click on scan below for approximate colors and selvedge IDs
The pattern of the Californian Lot.44 is very similar to that of the Californian Lot.54, with a few design modifications:
* PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans.
* FABRICS: The assorted New Old Stock selvedge denim limited edition is only available at the MF® Beverly Blvd location, and at “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney Blvd.,Venice, CA 90291, USA, phone 310-314-2101).
* Lot.44 vs. Lot.54 DETAILS: The Lot.44 has an added back cinch strap, longer inseam, yellow “M” pocket and side stitching, different fabric pocket bags.
* POCKETING: 100% cotton NOS stripe ticking denim. Some bag bags are made with indigo/white plaid twill. Random.
* FIT: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
These blue jeans are NOT skinnies, as we don’t dig the ‘men in tights’ or “girlfriend’s jeans” thingy.
* CONSTRUCTION: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Riveted back pockets with ‘zigzag flush’ stitching. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* STITCHING: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow, non colorfast.
* TRIMS: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* LABELING: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* PACKAGING: In the USA, the Californian Lot.44 comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
* SHRINKAGE: All fabrics are RAW and unwashed. Due to the assorted denim, shrinkage is all over the place. Please refer to chart below, where we shrink tested some of the jeans (cold soak for about 30mn, no agitation. Turned imside out and machine dryed for about 20mn, until 80% dried). Measurements are approximate.
Please don’t BOIL your jeans, as you will alter the color of the denim and ruin the leather patch.
The Californian Lot.44 comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage (more or less).
Example: A tagged W32 x L36 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 38” before wash. Some denim will shrink to approx. 32” x 36” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit, so you can size up or down. WASHING: To each his own, but we recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed. Available tagged Sizes: W30 × L34 W31 × L36 W32 × L36 W33 × L36 W34 × L36 W36 × L36 W38 × L36 (see “Shrinkage” section above for the low-down) Retail $289.95
The long awaited for MISTER FREEDOM® first “Five Pockets” style blue jeans are in the house! All made in USA from American un-sanforized Dead Stock (NOS) indigo blue 12 oz. denim…
* Pattern: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans.
* Fabric: New Old Stock American made selvedge indigo denim. White/red stripped selvedge ID. Un-sanforized. Approx. 12oz. square yard weight. Guaranteed to age and beautify with repeat wear.
* Pocketing: 100% cotton sturdy bedford cord type woven NOS fabric. Natural un-bleached white.
* Fit: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat. “Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go (SNAP)”
* Construction: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Top back pockets covered riveting and ‘zigzag flush’ reinforcement. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* Stitching: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* Trims: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* Labeling: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* Shrinkage: 8% or less, with minimal shrinkage with cold rinse/hang dry (recommended) and maximum shrinkage with hot wash/full dryer cycle. As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur depending on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
* Sizing: The Californian comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage.
Example: A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 36” before wash. They will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear from a W30 to W32 depending on my mood/style of the pants (I have a W30 on the photo, about 2 months wear.)
1) On length:
To avoid the effect of the “accordeon” legs, tipical of the Japanese denim replica silhouettes, we chose graduated length for the Californian. Many pairs of vintage denim are often seen worn “as found”, ie. sometimes borderline too short on taller individuals. We prefer this to the ‘endless’ legs characteristic of all new denim production.
If the jeans are too long, cuff them (sloppy rolls our folded) if you like cuffs. If they are just or a tad too short, a narrow single fold cuff still looks cool imo. Just wear good footwear!
If they look like bermudas on you, then it’s not meant to be…
2) On washing:
We recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
The “wear ’em raw” method is great too (makes for amazing wear), but you might want to size down (if you are a measured waist 30”, wear a tagged W29), and never hit water! Even when worn raw, denim will shrink/stretch with heat/tension, so your jeans will adapt to your body over time.
3) Leather patch: The debossed MF® pocket leather patch will lose its details/colour with washing in warm/hot water (for those of you who insist on hot soaking their jeans…) It will dry out and crack overtime, and is intended to do so.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes W28 × L32 SOLD OUT W29 × L32 SOLD OUT W30 × L32 SOLD OUT W31 × L32 SOLD OUT W32 × L34 SOLD OUT W33 × L34 SOLD OUT W34 × L34 SOLD OUT W36 × L34 SOLD OUT W38 × L34 SOLD OUT (see “Sizing” section above for the low-down) Retail $249.95