Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans Lot674, Special AWA-Ai Fiber Denim Edition, mfsc SS2024, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® happy Awa-Ai family: worn Californian Lot64 and Campus Blouse, with new Lot674 ©2024

Mister Freedom® worn Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai with new Lot674 Awa-Ai ©2024

Mister Freedom® worn Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai with new Lot674 Awa-Ai ©2024

Mister Freedom® worn Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai with new Lot674 Awa-Ai ©2024

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot674, special AWA-AI fiber denim edition.
mfsc SS2024 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Following the recent FW2023 release of the Lot64 and matching Campus Blouse in a very special “Awa-ai” indigo denim twill — painstakingly developed in Japan by our friends at Sugar Cane Co —, we decided to also cut a few Californians Lot674 for SS2024.

How special this selvedge denim fabric is was discussed at length previously. This release is about the cut, one of our popular 1960s-vibe stove pipe silhouette, our slimmest tapered leg.
A straight-forward recap of all Mister Freedom® Californians five-pocket classic fits — Lot44, Lot54, Lot64, Lot74 and Lot674 — can be found here.

Below is an approximate side-by-side visual comparaison of 4 of those timeless silhouettes, in various denim fabrics released through the years. All Californians pictured are W30, some well-worn, some just rinsed, some hemmed etc…
I am wearing a W30 Californian Lot674 Awa-Ai for the photo, a bit too slim-looking for my taste, so I actually purchased a W31 with slightly more room in the leg. Just personal taste, and because I’ve probably watched too many old movies.

Note to denimheads: this Awa-Ai denim is pretty resilient and will require a bit of work to eventually show signs of natural wear. We recommend yard work — or similar outdoor activities — over couch surfing for quicker results. My Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai — same fabric, different cut — are slowly starting to show some “indigo action” after being worn on/off for a few months.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot674 are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from premium SC Awa-ai fiber denim milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT674 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slim tapered leg for a 1960s period vibe.
FABRIC:
Sugar Cane Co “AWA-ai” fiber denim (blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers), 13 Oz., white/green line selvedge ID, dark indigo hue, dry, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan.
Pocketing: Fancy NOS 100% cotton twill, woven stripe (white pinstripe on navy blue background.)
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed tack buttons, brass waist / silver fly combo.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Fancy NOS stripe twill pocketing.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, red “Sakura” edition.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot674 AWA-Ai denim blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.

These Lot674 Awa-ai Californians are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I opted for a W31 in these (5’7 ~145 Lbs.), flood-length hemmed, for a classic 1960s silhouette.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.

CARE for your Awa-ai denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot-cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® CAMPUS Blouse (Campus Jacket), Midnight Denim Edition, mfsc SS2023. Made in USA

 

Campus Blouse, Midnight Denim edition
SS2023 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

We introduced our original veg-tan leather Campus Jacket sometime in 2013, and have been considering a fabric version ever since.

After 10 years of procrastination, and about 3 years of actual R&D, we’re proud to announce the official release of the Campus Blouse Midnight Denim edition!

A bit of manufacturing background story, for those interested.

With the obvious challenges of having to adapt the overall pattern to an entirely new material (leather and woven fabric are two very different beasts in regards to garment construction), the need to tediously re-work seam allowance, using entirely different sewing machines, reevaluating feasibility/functionality of trims, adjusting fit according to fabric shrinkage, investing in costly repeat prototypes and pre-prod sample making, etc…, we had to delay the initial release several times.

For example, the cuff construction and sleeve-mounting technique used on our leather Campus did not work with a fabric shell. Since the Campus Jacket has an unforgiving no-lining design (i.e. no way to hide cheap overlock seams and unsightly construction under a fancy fabric lining), we decided to use the alternative sleeve/cuff pattern of our Ranch Blouse instead. Both Campus and RB morphed into a “Campus Blouse”, if you will, in perfect harmony, with a clean, sturdy, flat-felled “caballo” stitch construction.
Side note, “caballo” is how we refer to the traditional denim flat-felled seam stitch here in California, because most skilled factory operators are latinos, and the industrial chainstitch sewing machine they use kinda looks like a horse head. (caballo is Spanish for horse.)

Also, due to fabric thickness issues with the seams/caballo machine folding foot, we had to source out a lighter ounce denim for the side gussets and pocketing/welting fabric. We scored a NOS premium double indigo twill, with a subtle and attractive indigo color contrast.
No need to flash denim selvedge like it was 2007 either, so the selvedge ID of the main 16 Oz MD denim is concealed inside various structural seams, while the fold of the side gussets offer a peak of the lighter ounce denim selvedge.

Another challenge was the side cinch tabs… We wanted to keep the straps made of leather, along with the pocket stops, but it proved technically impossible to “sandwich” leather straps in the caballo seams without weakening seam construction. So we went back to the drawing table, and worked on a new cinch strap design/shape, inspired by an old number of ours, the Drover Blouse. Mister Freedom® OGs may remember that 2012 production stunt we pulled… Once the new side strap design worked, we had some cutting dies made, and contracted out the leather trims cutting to a local LA leather factory, so that the leather trims could be dropped off at our local LA denim factory…

After all that back and forth, our beloved local family-owned factory – the same folks who have been producing all of our mfsc USA denim goods since 2007 – even considered giving up on the whole project! Too complicated, time-consuming, no profit there. Can’t blame them considering the very limited quantities we would eventually order from them after all that R&D… But, that family (we love them) takes pride in producing solid garments, so they stuck to the challenge.

Side note, it’s actually the second time the Campus MD is part of our Sportsman Catalog! Production just didn’t materialized the first time MF® HQ announced it. We chose to get it right, rather than to get it right now. Now that’s slow fashion.

So, with no further ado, there it is! The 2023 Campus MD looks goods, fits as intended, construction is clean in and out, and has the Joe Greene paw of approval.

This first fabric version of the MF® Campus features one of our staple denim twill, the mighty 16 Oz. selvedge Midnight Denim milled by our friends Sugar Cane in Japan. Fading potential hardly gets better than that.

And the Mustang is a rental while the old rust bucket gets overdue maintenance repair. My first time driving a muscle car, and loving it!

The MF® CAMPUS Blouse Midnight Denim is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Shell:
16 Oz. “Midnight” denim, dark indigo warp & black weft twill, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Pocketing/gussets/welt:
NOS double indigo twill
Trims:
Black tea-core leather trims (pocket stops/side straps).

PATTERN:
* The long awaited-for woven fabric interpretation of our classic veg-tan leather Campus jacket!
* An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, with all necessary construction/pattern edits.
* Arm/cuff construction borrowed from our Ranch Blouse pattern.
* Trim 1930’s silhouette.
* One-piece back.
* Fully unlined, clean flat-felled seam construction.
* Slash pockets with leather arrowhead pocket stops.
* Subtle contrast NOS double indigo denim side gussets/pocketing & pocket welt.
* Side gussets featuring concealed double indigo denim selvedge ID.
* Adjustable side straps pattern inspired by our Drover Blouse.
* Keyhole button holes.
* Corrozo ‘Cat Eyes’ wood buttons (aka ivory nut)
* Mister Freedom® original ‘The Sportsman’ rayon woven label.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
* Joe Greene-approved.

SIZING:
The Campus Blouse Midnight edition comes UN-WASHED, and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
•Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
•Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
•Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

My leather Campus jacket size is 38. I wear a 36 in this fabric Midnight denim edition, after cold-soak/line dry.
I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
Please check actual post-soak measurements on our chart to dial in what works for your specific body specs/preferred silhouette.

Disclaimer: Using alternative methods for the initial shrink (such as soaking in hot water/full machine wash/heat dryer etc) will result in different sizing measurements, and is not recommended.
Do NOT boil this denim jacket, as it has leather trims.

CARE:
Wash when necessary, as other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jacket inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64-JC, 14 Oz. indigo-dyed Jungle Cloth, mfsc FW2021. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN LOT.64-JC, indigo-dyed 14 Oz. Jungle Cloth edition.
mfsc FW2021 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Alert the media, the MF® Californian is back, and this time in non-selvedge fabric!
The Lot.64 is our most-popular five-pocket pattern, featuring a straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, and a classic 1960s silhouette.

“Jungle Cloth” is a trade name for heavy warp-faced corded fabric, in which the cords run in the warp (vertical) direction. This all-cotton grosgrain fabric of the corduroy family is high density, rugged, water-repellent and windproof, and has roots in 1920s civilian flight gear. It is commonly associated with US Navy foul weather deck personnel clothing, with the iconic N-1 and its many iterations in Heritage fashion.

Why it was called “Jungle Cloth” remains a mystery to me, and the earliest mention of the fabric I could find is in a 1914 book titled “Hunting in the Arctic and Alaska”, in a chapter listing the author’s personal outfit of choice for a cruise in the Arctic:

Jungle Cloth is described as “Modified Bedford Cords” in a volume of “Standard Commodity Classification” from 1945. Its US production ramped up during WW2 due to large US Government contracts for the US Navy. The Crompton-Shenandoah Plant in Virginia handled a large chunk of the wartime production, having adapted its long-established velveteen-milling machinery to meet the mil-specs Jungle Cloth demand.

Excerpt from US Senate hearings on Trade Agreements, 1955.

This interesting 1955 “Trade Agreements” US Senate official document discusses the struggle of the American fabric milling industry, overwhelmed by cheaper labor competition from Italian and Japanese factories at the time. During the hearings, a Crompton-Shenandoah representative mentions “the average hourly earnings in the cotton textile industry are about $1.35 (in the US) , the Italian textile hourly average wage is 24 cents, the Japanese 13 cents… The best Japanese velveteen, and it is good, is for sale in New York, duty paid, at 21 cents per yard lower than our manufacturing cost…
Fabric milling in the US struggled until the 1980s, and is today a shadow of what it once was, although domestic textile manufacturing has seen a revival in recent years.
It is also quite ironic that in 2021, Japanese and Italian textiles are considered premium and are very costly, and that domestic production in Japan and Italy is now constantly challenged by unbeatable competition from China, Bangladesh, India, South East Asia, Haiti, South Africa… Hard to compete indeed with $95/month wages such as those of Bangladeshi garment workers. Gambatte Nippon!

Our premium Jungle Cloth is milled in Japan and indigo-dyed by Japanese experts to a dark shade of indigo blue. This vintage mil-specs fabric initially developed by Buzz Rickson’s is an old MF® favorite. It has been previously featured on our Riders, N-1Z Deck Pants, M-17 Parka, and Mulholland Master. It ages beautifully and the patina of indigo-dyed Jungle Cloth is quite impressive.
(Note that his fabric is very light-sensitive, so store appropriately to avoid sun fading/fold marks.)

For pocketing, we opted for some older NOS olive green HBT. To keep a low profile, we went for tonal stitching and, due to the Jungle Cloth heavy ounce, chose cotton-wrap poly thread for sturdy construction and seam resistance.

The Californian LOT.64-JC blue jeans “Indigo Jungle Cloth” edition are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
High density 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, the notorious shell fabric of 1940’s US Navy N-1 deck jackets, dyed to a deep and dark indigo shade. (The face is textured by dense vertical cords, and the reverse feels soft and brushed.)
Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional 1950′s-1960’s era blue jeans, original Mister Freedom® classic fit.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Non-selvedge leg outseam, overlock.
* 100% cotton NOS olive green HBT pocketing.
* Tonal MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed black tea-core veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Tonal stitching, classic MF® Californian gauge combo, sturdy black cotton-wrap poly thread.
* Coin pocket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bartack stitching.
* Original MF® metal cast tack buttons combo, ‘oxidized’ silver for fly, brass for waist.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (Army green).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The CALIFORNIAN Lot.64-JC comes UN-WASHED. These jeans are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry. (Do not use heat dryer)

I went with a W31, for a snug top block and straight leg silhouette. I am about 5’7, 150 lbs. This fabric hardly stretches but softens with wear, and is very comfortable.

Disclaimer: Color crocking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments worn as under layers. Indigo rub-off should wash-off eventually. However, expect blue legs for a while.
Also, this fabric is very light-sensitive, so store appropriately to avoid sun fading/fold marks.

CARE:
Wash sporadically, only when needed. Spot clean with a damp rag to remove dirt/mud rather than wash.
When full cleaning is required, turn pants inside out to limit fabric marbling, set machine to DELICATE and wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics.
Heavy indigo crocking is to be expected for a while, so wash separately from all other garments. Indigo blue marks on the washing machine walls can be removed with a damp rag soaked in laundry detergent.

Do not use a heat dryer, hang dry instead.

Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® “PRIVATEER” Rollneck Sweater, Indigo and Ecru Cotton Rib Knit, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

 

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® “PRIVATEER” Rollneck Sweater, Indigo and Ecru Cotton Rib Knit.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus”.
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® PRIVATEER Rollneck is inspired by an older crew neck casual cotton sweater from our archives, to which we mounted a classic high rolled collar, turtleneck or rollneck, giving the resulting hybrid its nautical vibe.

Vintage prototype of the MF® PRIVATEER (rollneck is Photoshopped in) with pattern edits ©2020

We kept the textured 1×1 “fisherman” rib knit of the original, along with the raglan sleeve construction, but extended the seamless cuffs and bottom webbing for an older sweater vibe. The overall proportions were tweaked for a shorter vintage silhouette that pairs well with high-waisted pants.

We opted for 100% cotton knit, a more SoCal-friendly and less allergy-inducing option than traditional rollneck wool sweaters. Our PRIVATEER is definitely not intended as a contender to a wool submariner’s jumper in the warmth department, but is rather devised as a casual mid-season piece for temperate climates, leading to extra playtime disguised as Captain Haddock in Sunny California.

The original sample that inspired our PRIVATEER was pure white and we chose to hand-dye it indigo during R&D. We liked the results, so for production, we settled on two color options: a specific warm tone of ecru matched from an old vintage Aran sweater, and the medium indigo blue shade matched from our back-yard dyed prototype.

The MF® PRIVATEER is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
100% cotton 1×1 rib knit, “fisherman” rib pattern or “Brioche” stitch type.
Two color options:
1) “Aran” ecru.
2) Indigo blue.

SPECS:
* An original hybrid mfsc pattern, inspired by casual sweaters and vintage nautical jumpers.
* Single fold ribbed rollneck.
* “Fisherman” rib knit stitch body.
* 100% cotton knit.
* Raglan sleeve pattern with contrast rib pattern mounting.
* Large seamless ribbed waistband.
* Foldable extended and seamless ribbed cuffs.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in JAPAN.

SIZING/FIT:
The PRIVATEER Rollneck, in both ecru and indigo, comes pre-shrunk and is ready-to-wear as-is. No soaking required.
This garment is considered true-to-size. I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit.

The specific “Fisherman” rib allows horizontal (crosswise) stretch, with good natural recovery (= the knit’s ability to return to its initial size after being stretched.)
Therefore, measurements can be misleading, as with all stretchy knit garments.
We do recommend sticking to your usual MF® size with the  PRIVATEER Rollneck. If you are a Medium in mfsc shirting, you are more-likely a Medium in this sweater, regardless of our chart measurements. The arms might feel a bit snug and first, and pulling your head though the neck might feel a bit tight, but the sweater will settle naturally after a few minutes of wear.
I am wearing a chambray Snipes shirt underneath a Medium PRIVATEER in the fit photos, and am 5’7 approx 150Lbs.

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

CARE:
Turn sweater inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Air dry flat on a clean towel, or hang dry on a well-padded hanger to avoid shoulder stretching.
Light fuzzing or piling may occur temporarily and will subside.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available PRE-SHUNK
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “MAVERICK” Jacket, Faux Shearling lining, Ice-Blu and Malibu selvedge denim, solid and combo edition, FW2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Ice Denim, FW2020 mfsc “Truck Stop” Collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Ice & Malibu Denim combo, FW2020 mfsc “Truck Stop” Collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Malibu Denim, FW2020 mfsc “Truck Stop” Collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

The 2020 Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket and 2015 Speedways are cut from the same 13 Oz. “Malibu” denim.

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket, Faux Shearling lining, Ice-Blu & Malibu selvedge denim edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.

Textile fur (aka faux fur) seems to have appeared in fashion sometime the 1910’s, when fabric mills equipped with imposing double needle bar Raschel warp-knitting machines started recreating the feel and looks of animal fur, using concepts previously used to mill corduroy, velvet, carpets. The resulting pile fabric made of looping yarns could be made plush and fluffy, and its appeal rapidly grew. See this brief Smithsonian Mag article.
During WW2, starting in 1943, wool (alpaca) pile linings were commonly used in US military cold weather uniforms.

Synthetic fibers such as Orlon® were introduced starting in 1948, and by the late 1950s, all kinds of imitation fur textures were made available to fashionistas.

Acrylic faux shearling (imitating sheep skin) seems to have become a popular lining option for western-style garments in the late 1960s, still sharing the stage with traditional wool blanket-lined insulation for some time. By the following decade, acrylic pile linings were definitely a staple in casual and outdoor fashion.

Sometimes referred to as sherpa lining, a term subject to endless online arguments in the keyboard cowboy community, the familiar off-white pile has been paired with all kinds of shell materials through its existence, corduroy, rough-out leather, velvet, nylon, … and of course denim.
Vintage specimen of old 1960s-70s Towncraft® jackets (JC Penney’s house brand), Roebucks® (Sears’ western-wear division), and other “x-bar-x” labeled coats (H bar C, J bar C, J bar T…) featuring the fluffy liner abound.
In the 1980s, Levi’s introduced its iconic four-pocket trucker lined with faux shearling, definitely making a dent in fashion history with the follow-up release of dreadful “acid-wash” specimen dear to 1990s style revivalists today.

Confusingly, the polyester fleece commonly associated with hi-tek mountaineering gear today, initially developed in 1979 by Aaron Feuerstein’s Malden Mills, and subsequently put to good use by pioneer outdoor clothing visionary Yvon Chouinard and others, is also referred-to as sherpa by many. That fabric actually belongs to the polar fleece family, and is quite a departure from faux shearling.

Design-wise, our MAVERICK jacket is inspired by 1960s-70s fashion ranch coats with textile fur pile linings, and other sherpa-style outdoor togs.
The body pattern draws its inspiration from a 1970s Roebucks® western denim jacket from our archives. These vintage coats are not rare and hardly desirable for collectors, as they were always cut from cheap poly-cotton denim at the time. So we thought of combining the style with premium selvedge denim, spicing-up the original utilitarian design with a plethora of details á la MF® for good measure.

For the occasion, we reached out to our friends at Toyo Enterprise to develop an original MF® 1950s-style snap brass button, a respectful reference to vintage Levi’s rough-out leather jackets front closure.

Like in the original Roebuck® jacket design, the hand-warmer pockets are cleverly incorporated in the vertical panel seam, but we added a snap closure and two copper rivets pocket stops.
The bottom patch pockets feature our familiar arched “M” stitch, fully visible when lifting the fluffy flaps.

We tricked-out the arm/cuff pattern, blending-in the intricate construction of older railroad type denim work coats, a sleeve style previously featured on our 2012 Faro Sack Coat and 2013 Hacendado Sack Coat.
For ease of movement, the arms are partially lined in vintage-inspired woven plaid cotton flannel fabric, red dominant and brown dominant, both yardage remnants from the Sugar Cane catalog.

The large notch lapel flashing the pile lining gives the MAVERICK its 1970s ranch-wear vibe, and the arcuate top block allowed us to play with classic western yoke contrast. There are three options for our FW2020 MAVERICK Jacket, because we could not bring ourselves to pick only two favorite children: solid Malibu, solid Ice-Blu, and Ice-Blu/Malibu combo.
The two denims are old mfsc favorites. First is the 13 Oz. “Malibu Sea” denim introduced in 2015 with our Speedways, 2016 Cowboy Jacket, and 2017 Conductor Jacket with matching slacks. Second is the smashing 12 Oz. “ICE-BLU” denim unveiled this glorious 2020 year, in both the Ranch Blouse and Californian Lot.674 patterns.
We opted for contrast stitching, combining yellow and orange thread for two models, and solid ivory white for the solid ICE-BLU version.

The MAVERICK Jacket, Ice-Blu and Malibu denim edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

Fabric:
Two distinct fabrics:
* Original mfsc “ICE-BLU” denim twill, 12 Oz. twill, light indigo blue warp x ecru weft, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
* Original mfsc “MALIBU SEA” denim twill, 13 Oz., medium indigo-dyed warp x ecru weft, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Three options:
1) Solid ICE-BLU.
2) Solid MALIBU.
3) ICE-BLU x MALIBU combo.

SPECS
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1960s-70s Ranch coats and western denim jackets.
* ¾ length.
* Faux shearling fur body lining, 100% acrylic pile fabric, aka “sherpa”.
* Woven plaid cotton flannel fabric arm lining.
* Wide notch lapel, arcuate panels, pocket flaps and cuffs shearling accents.
* Hand warming slash pockets incorporated in vertical panel seam.
* Copper rivet pocket stops.
* “M” stitch on hip pockets with flaps.
* Original vintage-style MF® branded brass snaps closure.
* Contrast stitching (ivory white on Ice-Blu and yellow/orange combo on Malibu/Ice-Blu)
* Intricate adjustable cuff construction.
* Original mfsc “Truck Stop” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
All three versions of the MF® MAVERICK Jacket come RAW/unwashed. The garment is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
  • Washing machine spin dry.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

I opted for a 38 Medium in each version, for a snug yet comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

When comparing our chart measurements with those of a similar coat you own that fits you well, do consider the fluffy lining thickness.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
This garment is bulky and weighs quite a bit when wet, so we do not recommend using a home washing machine for cleaning. This may cause unattractive marbling of the denim fabric, and may damage both the garment and the machine, even on delicate cycle.
When necessary, we recommend hand-washing, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Using a heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020