LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model A: 7.7 Oz. indigo linen-cotton HBT.
LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model B: 10 Oz. “Snow” denim.
Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, indigo linen-cotton HBT & 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition. mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog. Made in Japan.
We took a stroll down memory lane and rigged-up a small capsule collection for Spring 2020, with references harking back to our earliest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co fictional scenario, the 2006 “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”. This concise “Waterfront Surplus” nautical grouping is inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, local-made and custom-tailored dungarees, with the usual liberties we like to take with History. This straight-forward and classic set is made of the DOCKYARD Jacket, LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, and SWABBIES Dungarees.
Following the recent release of the DOCKYARD Jacket in indigo linen-cotton HBT and “snow” denim, here is Volume Two, the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, available in the same two fabric options.
The overall design of this pull-over “jumper” shirt is lifted from a rare 1940s vintage naval denim work shirt produced by the “Gus Kroesen Uniform” label. Established in 1907, and with branches in Seattle, San Francisco and Honolulu, the Gus Kroesen stores have supplied generations of men of the sea with outstanding custom uniforms. According to a 1924 article of the San Pedro News Pilot, “Gus Kroesen, naval and civilian tailor and haberdasher, with a very attractive and well-stocked store at 335 Front street, San Pedro, served for fourteen years as a ship’s tailor in the U.S. Navy.” (quote credit California Digital Newspaper Collection, Center for Bibliographic Studies and Research, University of California, Riverside.) Today, surviving vintage specimen of Gus Kroesen naval dungarees are quite rare and sought-after by collectors.
The Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt features most of the design specifics of the vintage original, the jumper style pattern (aka pop-over), half zipper front closure placket, and three utilitarian patch pockets. One of the striking details of the Gus Kroesen shirt was the unusual use of the fabric grain in construction. Classic shirt bodies tend to be cut using straight grain (displaying the warp threads vertically), but our vintage jumper featured vertical cross grain. I have seen a few of these private-purchase naval dungaree jumpers from various makers, and this is typical of that style. The purpose was to maximize yield and minimize fabric waste, using the selvedge in the bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold. As a side effect, the combination of grain directions will result in interesting seam puckering, peculiar garment drape, and potential attractive “striped” patina over time.
If our indigo HBT fabric is non-selvedge, both LONGSHOREMAN options are cut using the same grain cutting method, promising some interesting fading evolution in both fabrics. To add a little twist à la MF®, we decided to add a classic period detail in the form of a narrow chin strap, and a practical concealed chest pocket.
The LONGSHOREMAN Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: Model A: 7.7 Oz. dark indigo-dyed Herringbone Twill (HBT) fabric, blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton. Milled in Japan. Model B: 10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * Inspired by 1930s-40s custom-made private purchase naval dungarees and shipyard crews work clothing.
* Pull-over style “jumper” pattern.
* Half zipper closure placket, 30s/40s-style bell-shaped pull “silver” Talon zipper, 100% cotton tape. (use caution when fastening, as these vintage-style zippers are more delicate than modern versions with polyester tape. Lubricate the metal teeth with natural beeswax occasionally.)
* Fabric cut using vertical cross grain for body and sleeves, displaying the warp horizontally. * Selvedge displayed in bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold (denim version only.) * Three front utilitarian patch pockets. * Concealed chest pocket, stripe ticking fabric. * Clean chainstitch construction, no open seams. * Mister Freedom® mfsc woven rayon “SURPLUS” label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry and line dry.
Hang until fully dry.
Due to the 100% cotton stitching and specific grain cutting method, attractive puckering will show at the seams after the soak, giving the garment more of a vintage feel. The denim version will be stiffer after the initial soak due to the re-activated starch, but the stiffness is temporary and will subside rapidly with wear. I opted for a comfortable 38 (MEDIUM) in both fabric options, both with a similar fit but different drape. The silhouette is quite slim yet comfortable enough not to make pulling the shirt on/off an excruciating task. According to body types, the cut will accommodate layering with a skivvy or classic Nixon chambray. We recommend going with your usual mfsc shirt size.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
Available RAW/unwashed. CARE: Launder when needed. For both options, we recommend turning the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt inside out, fully zipped-up, to avoid marbling of the fabric. Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY. Sizes 34 X-small (indigo HBT only) 36 Small 38 Medium 40 Large 42 X-Large 44 XX-Large
Mister Freedom® “G.I.” Two-Button Shirt, NOS indigo cotton Fisherman’s rib stitch jersey knit. “The Sportsman” catalog, Fall 2018. Made in USA.
In true Mister Freedom® fashion, we will “render unto Caesar the things that are Caesar’s” and duly credit Uncle Sam for the pattern of this garment, as we shamelessly lifted this “henley” shirt design from a US Government-issued cold weather classic from the 1950’s. Initially released under the “Undershirt, Winter, M1950”moniker, it is sometimes referred to as the “Wallace Beery” shirt. The M-50 (model 1950) was adopted by the U.S. Army QMC in 1948, and, starting in 1950, a set of three shirts was issued to American soldiers heading out to Korean battlefields. We are all familiar with the original military version, the unbleached wool merino-cotton blend knit shirt with the two large white buttons, and its superseding brown 436 issue, both quite a staple of old-school Army/Navy surplus stores.
Original vintage US Army M-50 undershirt.
Following our typical modus operandi, we decided to “civilianize” this classic US Army undershirt. For a fashionable make-over, we tapped into the final precious yardages of New Old Stock indigo cotton jersey, the handsome deep dark indigo blue yarn-dyed 100% cotton “Fisherman’s rib stitch” jersey knit, milled in USA, previously featured on the MF® Chandail Saint-Malo. The technical knitting term “Fisherman’s rib stitch” refers to the fabric’s specific weave, displaying a vertical pattern of fine ribs, with somewhat of a ‘waffle’ aspect reminiscent of vintage thermal shirts.
For the button placket, departing from the original M-50 military design with its simple matching knit placket, we decided to spice things up with extra indigo goodness. Although not quite visually noticeable at first glance, the placket is cut from a contrasting NOS plain-weave fabric, of an almost matching dark indigo color. This not only makes the button front closure sturdier than the loose-weave jersey, but also creates an attractive subtle contrast in both texture and color, promising of an interesting patina down the line.
Like the military original, our “GI” indigo shirt features the characteristic utilitarian flatlock stitch overall construction, the stretch-resistant reverse weave top shoulder gusset, the unusual inverted top seam arm stitching, the wide self-fabric cuffs, and the two ‘oversized’ cat-eyes buttons. We opted for fancy corozo wood for our version, in a complimenting rich amber brown color.
Just like with the production of the Saint-Malo, the specific horizontal mechanical stretch combined with fabric shrinkage made manufacturing the GI shirt a tour de force for our local factory. It took nearly one year of challenging sample-making and pattern-adjusting to get the fit, stitching and proportions right. After all that R&D challenge, we are quite ecstatic to finally add this little guy to the ever-growing MF® Sportsman catalog.
Style-wise, our “G.I.” Two-Button Shirt is quite versatile and can be worn as a thermal-type undershirt, as a single-layer shirt, as a light sweater over a summer-weight button shirt, like a Nixon chambray for instance. Tucked-in old-man style to compliment the classic wedgie look dear to our model, or untucked, for the younger crowd.
As always, our shirt is not available factory distressed. The subtle and attractive heather quality of the deep dark indigo will intensify as the garment fades with normal wear/wash cycles. See photos featuring a well-worn and frequently-washed early prototype, next to the freshly-issued version, for the rewarding results of naturally faded habiliment. It is the nature of deep tone indigo-dyed garments to transfer some of the indigo blue color to other surfaces, from abrasion. The MF® GI Two-Button shirt is a real bleeder, both from the knit and woven fabric parts. On a side note, this is probably the reason why this fabric was never cut into garments, and ended-up as New Old Stock, to our delight. To avoid the soup sandwich of complains and merchandise returns, a (mystery) brand responsible for having milled this amazing indigo knit jersey likely cancelled whatever project they had with it, after realizing everyone’s hands were turning blue…
Well, we picked up where they left off, and happily played with their unwanted toy! One of the perks of being part of a small independent label, is the reassurance of a bright, responsible, adult audience, such as the one we have been cultivating for the past 12 or so years. We are so indebted to our customers for the opportunity and privilege to design all sorts of challenging, eclectic, offbeat wearables, seasons after seasons, sustainably and regardless of trends. Thank you all, Mister Freedom® ❤️ you!
CAVEAT EMPTOR: Although the indigo connoisseur will relish in the deep dark tone, the MF® “G.I.” shirt might not be an ideal garment for the faint-hearted or laundry-challenged. Indigo crocking will perdure even after several wear/wash cycles. I’ve had a blue torso from wearing mine without an undershirt! The shirt’s indigo blue will definitely rub-off on light-color garments, sofas, car seats, walls, skin, etc… Color transfer should easily wash-off with regular laundry methods, but we definitely recommend not wearing white undershirts, white shirts or white jackets with this garment for a while. Indigo color transfer will eventually subside after about 10 wear/wash cycles, and the knit fabric settle to a beautiful typical indigo hue.
The MF® G.I. Two-Button Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA, from American NOS fabric.
FABRIC: New Old Stock 100% cotton “Fisherman’s rib stitch” jersey knit, deep dark indigo blue yarn-dyed, milled in USA. Note: Although not overly light-sensitive, expect substantial color crocking with this specific indigo knit fabric. It is the nature of indigo-dyed garments to transfer some of the indigo color to other surfaces, from abrasion.
SPECS: * An original MF® pattern inspired by vintage 1950’s Government-issued US Army M1950 two-button front cold weather undershirts.
* Utilitarian flatlock stitch overall construction.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Contrasting indigo-dyed plain-weave fabric button placket. * Stretch-resistant reverse weave top shoulder gusset. * Wide self-fabric cuffs. * Inverted top seam arm stitching. * MF® Sportsman trademark contrasting green inside stitching. * MF® Sportsman woven label. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: After an initial cold rinse and heat dry cycle, theMF® G.I. Two-Button Shirt will fit pretty much like our popular Stanley T-Shirt, but with much more ‘elasticity’ (mechanical stretch). If you are familiar with our Skivvy and Stanley T-Shirts, our Tricot Marinfits like a Skivvy, while our GI shirt feels more like the Stanley, due to similar fabric stretch properties. I wear a Small in Stanley and Skivvy, and usually Medium in mfsc button shirts. I opted for a size Small in the GI shirt, with a snug initial fit that loosened-up gradually while wearing the shirt. After a day of normal wear, the shirt’s body expands a few inches in width, minimally in length. If the pattern has been specifically adjusted to avoid an unattractive “boxy” silhouette, a Small in the AM feels somewhat like a Medium in the PM.
Basically, the GI shirt will shrink to a tighter fit after laundering/heat dry, but easily expand again with wear as the knit fabric loosens up. If you are in-between sizes, or worried about an overly-relaxed fit, we recommend sizing down on the GI shirt. As always, which size will work for you depends on your own aesthetics, body type, preference for ‘vintage’ silhouette or contemporary fit.
Refer to sizing chart for measurements, taken with the item laying flat and NOT stretched. Do keep in mind the mechanical stretch aforementioned, and expect the shirt to gain an inch or two in width as it is worn and naturally stretched over the torso.
Mister Freedom® GI Two-Button Shirt, size SMALL (washed/dry).
CARE: We recommend cold wash with eco-friendly detergent, heat dryer. Wash and dry separately to avoid color transfer to light color garments.
DISCLAIMER: Beware that this indigo garment will ‘bleed’ through several wash/wear cycles, and color transfer will occur on other garments, furniture, car seats, skin, washing machine and heat-dryer drums. It is the nature of indigo-dyed garments to transfer some of the indigo color to other surfaces, from abrasion.
This indigo color transfer will eventually subside after about 10-15 wear/wash cycles.
Available raw (un-washed) Sizes X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large
Because we don’t offer factory-distressed garments, for environmental reasons, ethical concerns and plain common sense, we often get asked “How soon can I expect a worn-in patina?”… There is no easy answer besides “Just wear and find out”. Frequency of wear, type of activities, fit, … all play a major role in how denim garments evolve and fade, a role often more decisive than the specific fabric itself. Our denim twills and indigo canvases will fade overtime. Just enjoy the journey and don’t watch the water boil.
We have never been about fast fashion, and the Mister Freedom® denim catalog is not about instant gratification. But we believe there is an instant reward in knowing you are investing in ethically-made garments.
Mister Freedom® “Liquette Tzigane”, indigo cotton/wool herringbone twill. GYPSY BLUES mfsc collection Fall 2017. Made in Japan.
The grand finale of our Hot Jazz opus, the mfsc “Gypsy Blues” 2017 collection, a venture into the world of ‘swing manouche‘, wraps-up with a Fall iteration of the Liquette Tzigane. The pattern of this garment is inspired by several vintage 1920’s-30’s fancy shirt specimen, twisted à-la MF®.
Liquette is an old French argot (slang) term designating a man’s shirt, as-in the recently released Liquette Manouche. The word Tzigane (or Tsigane) can be used to designate a person of Eastern European Romani ancestry, although the term hints at a specific culture within the Gypsy world (often with a musical connotation) rather than a geographic origin. Sounds of lamenting violins playing “Les Yeux Noirs” around the campfire, with a string of caravans in the background, come to mind.
Initially released in a fine indigo calico discharge-printed cotton popeline, our Spring 2017 take on the vintage Hungarian folk textile family called Kékfestés, the colder-months’ counterpart of the Liquette Tzigane comes in a 9.5 Oz. indigo yarn-dyed cotton-wool blend. With the 70% cotton content, this handsome fabric feels quite ‘dry’ to the touch, without any itchiness. It has a very dark navy blue tone, anecdotally reminiscent of vintage US Navy wool CPO shirts.
The Liquette Tzigane indigo HBT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar cane Co.
Musical Note: I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Samy Daussat this summer, during the 2017 Los Angeles Django Festival. A knowledgeable Gypsy Jazz aficionado and talented guitar player, Samy is also blessed with teaching skills. Attendees to his master class held during the two-day event attested to that.
For those interested in this traditional Gypsy Swing style of playing guitar, Samy does a great job at deciphering and making sense of some of the specifics of Django Reinhardt’s improvising genius. His YouTube tutorials are in French, but any international guitar slinger with a Hot Club de France inclination will get the point. And classes are free!
The 2017 LA Django Festival was organized by Mr. Tommy Davy, himself expert on everything manouche guitar-related and a skilled musician. For vintage Selmer-Maccaferri-type guitar urges, browse through Tommy’s inventory of Django-style goodness, and listen to his own recorded musical prowess. Tommy also draws on traditional gypsy folk music to fuel his Trio Dinicu slavic and Tzigane-flavored repertoire.
And, to dismiss the cliche that all that jazz is just a dude thing, do check out what Christelle Caillot is bringing to the manouche guitar table.
SPECS: FABRIC: 9.5 Oz. cotton-wool blend, indigo yarn-dyed herringbone twill weave. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * Inspired by 1920’s-1930’s fancy shirting. * Versatile collar pattern with double button tab, fashionable as a classic open collar, cutaway style or high-buttoned. * Original MF® pocketing (from the 2012 MF® Prairie Shirt). * Indigo poplin button placket facing. * Early shirting curvy tails. * Side gussets. * Corozo wood buttons, indigo blue color. * Shirred back yoke and cuffs. * High-count stitching, early shirting narrow chainstitch construction. * Original mfsc Gypsy Blues woven rayon label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® Liquette Tzigane indigo HBT comes raw/unwashed. Follow the usual initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. Unlike its Spring 2017 Kékfestés version for which we advised to size-up, the Liquette Tzigane indigo cotton-wool HBT is pretty much true to size, and actually features a rather generous fit allowing winter layering. I opted for a size Medium in this shirt, with a comfortable fit when worn with a classic chambray shirt, Saint-Malo jersey etc…
Please refer to chart to figure out which size works for you. “Rinsed” means soaked for 30mn in cold water, spin dry and hang dry. When in doubt, email email@example.com for sizing advice.
CARE: This garment is made from is a cotton-wool blend fabric. Do not wash in hot water or boil to avoid excessive shrinkage and damage to the fabric. Machine wash on delicate when needed, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Available raw/unwashed. Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large Retail: $349.95
With the Mister Freedom® M-17 Parka, now you too can look really creepy.
Mister Freedom® “M-17 Parka”, indigo-dyed jungle cloth. MF® “SURPLUS” mfsc Fall 2017. Made in Japan.
This is the third addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. Basically, the MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog. After tripping to the moon with the smashing Apollo ’69 Sukajan, after cruising in style down the 101 with the indigo Jungle Riders, here is a number for upcoming foul weather days.
Design-wise, we adapted the pattern of a vintage US Air Force-issued M-47 “Overcoat, Parka Type”, molding it into a practical, unlined civvy garment, blending military, nautical and utilitarian outdoorsy vibes. Having turned the classic Olive Drab 1947 model into a 2017 garment, we simply named it “M-17 Parka”.
The choice of indigo-dyed jungle cloth for the shell became obvious after witnessing how this handsome fabric evolves overtime, with normal wear and exposure to the elements. Before the recently-released Jungle Riders, this same fabric was featured on two MF® oldies, the Mulholland Master and Blouson de Quart of our 2016 tenth Anniversary collection. Promising evo shots should be emerging on the social media in a few winters…
We opted for green contrasting trim accents, with the web belt, stitching, 1940’s-style Mil-Specs crown zipper tape, and olive corrozzo buttons. The hand-warming slash pockets feature beige corduroy pocket bags, a reference to vintage WW2 USN peacoats.
Those into waxing their gear for weatherproofing, or for the rugged aesthetics, can do so with Otter Wax or natural bees wax. Do consider that this would not only be a no-turning-back commitment, but a real endeavor considering the size of the fabric panels to be waxed… I will personally leave my M-17 in its original condition and let the indigo do its thing for a while. Then again I live in Southern California, where rains only briefly interfere with drought alerts…
The “M-17 Parka” is re-designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: A tightly woven 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, the notorious shell fabric of 1940’s USN deck jackets, dyed to a deep and dark indigo shade. Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
DETAILS: * Inspired by the classic olive drab US Air Force-issued M-47 “Overcoat, Parka Type”. * Unlined body. * Hood lined with fine indigo-dyed cotton popeline. * Heavy-duty 1940’s-style US military spring-loaded “CROWN” zipper replica. * Two large patch pockets with flap closure, and two hand-warming slash pockets featuring beige corduroy bags. * Corrozzo wood buttons. * OD Cotton web belt, removable, featuring an authentic made-in-USA USMC Mil. Specs. powder-coated metal buckle. * Inside OD cotton tape piping, no open/overlocked seams. * Olive green contrast stitching. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® M-17 Parka comes raw/unwashed and we recommend an initial 30mn cold soak, spin dry and hang dry. I opted for a comfortable size Medium, my usual size in mfsc jackets, anticipating layering it with other garments comes winter. Note that I could fit into a size Small with a light shirt, slimmer silhouette but no layering possible.
DISCLAIMER: Color crocking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments worn as under layers. Indigo rub-off should wash-off eventually. However, because it is unlined, do not wear a white shirt or light color jacket directly under the M-17 Parka.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CARE When cleaning is required, turn inside out, unzipped and unbuttoned, and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Expect heavy indigo crocking is to be expected, wash separately from all other garment. Due to the bulkiness of this garment, and its weight when soaked, we do not recommend using a home washing machine. This will potentially ruin both the M-17 Parka and your washing machine. Additionally, excessive and unnecessary agitation will leave unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out. Do not use a heat dryer, hang dry instead.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY. Sizes Small
XX-Large Retail $899.95