“SPORTSMAN CHINOS”, Beach Chino and Indigo twill. Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ Collection, Spring 2014. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom Chino Sportsman 2014

Working on brand image. Glamour is key.

Mister Freedom Chino Sportsman 2014

Mister Freedom Chino Sportsman 2014

 

Mister Freedom Chino Sportsman 2014

 

Sportsman Chinos Mister Freedom 2013

Sportsman Chinos, 2013 issue

 

The SPORTSMAN CHINOS
Beach Chino twill and Indigo Métisse Twill
Sportsman Collection Spring 2014

Introduced during Spring 2013 and part of the Sportsman catalog, the Sportsman chinos are Mister Freedom® take on a beloved American classic, made in USA for the occasion.
The buckle back and relaxed fit gives them somewhat of a 1950’s vibe, in a traditional work-meets-casual trouser style.
This simple design, spiced up with some MF® signature details, is now being released in two new fabrics, both loomed in Japan.

This season’s selvedge chino twill version is similar to the 2013 release, but in a lighter ‘sand’ khaki color. We called it “Beach”, because “Sleepy Bora Bora lagoon at dawn” was too long and probably taken. Additionally, it makes us sound like a lifestyle brand, I like that.
Below are photos of my Chinos (2013 release), after some normal wear/wash process.

The indigo twill version brings us back to our “Les Apaches” days with the cotton/linen métisse fabric introduced with the veste ouvrier, paletot, chemise hirondelle, and gilet.
After normal wash & wear, the patina on this fabric is pretty amazing. There are some beautiful worn examples out there, as I’ve been able to witness on several occasions.
It appears friend and early-days supporter Tyler Madden from Self Edge Portland submitted his veste ouvrier to some rough work schedule. Well done Sir.
Tyler’s jacket’ patina did not come out of a Turkish or Bangladeshi washhouse.

Tyler-Veste-Ouvrier

Tyler’s “veste ouvrier” from 2011

Note on industrial washing:
Chip Bergh, Levi’s CEO since 2011, announced recently that he had not washed his jeans for a year.
Cool.
Besides the horror this created in the common First-World household and the points gained with the Denimhead community, I thought his position quite interesting. Mr. Bergh wants to save the planet one laundry load at a time. Good man, thanks Chip. Indeed, it is clear that we, consumers, and our darn hyper-active washing machines, are challenging the Blue Planet’s water supply.
Quite amusing of a public statement for a company whose net income ($229 million in 2013) has been mostly generated by selling and promoting stonewashed jeans.
So, yes. You go Water<Less™ in Turkey, and I won’t forget to do my part at home, ie. “pick one day of the week to go shower-less“.
Problem solved.
Pheew.

If it's good enough for the President...

If it’s good enough for the President…

After this diversion, dare I mention that because our indigo métisse is a frayed-edge type fabric, the side seam is of the flat-felled chainstitched construction type, while the chino twill side seam display the twill selvedge.
The Sportsman Chinos are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from fabric loomed in Japan.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants.

FABRIC Options:
a) Beach Chino Twill: Raw 100% cotton selvedge ‘Chino’ twill, ‘sand’ color, milled in Japan on shuttle looms.
b) Indigo Métisse Twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early French indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…

DETAILS:
* Relaxed 1950’s type silhouette and fit.
* Natural corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Selvedge leg side seams for the chino twill, flat-felled seam for the indigo twill version.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* The ever attractive-sounding ‘crotch gusset’.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* New Old Stock blue/white stripe 100% cotton twill pocket bags.
* Natural 100% cotton sailcloth waist band and fly facing.
* Watch pocket.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/WASHING:
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size. Both fabric will shrink to approximately the same measurements. The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size.
The bottom are left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch fold, regular single needle machine stitch.
a) Chino Twill: This fabric is pretty low maintenance. Original cold soak and line dry. Further washing when needed, on gentle cycle, warm/cold water, line dry. The original sheen of the fabric will dull out with wear and wash.
b) Indigo métisse Twill: We recommend an original cold soak, spin dry, line dry. Color croaking is to be expected. This indigo option is very sun sensitive. When dirty and according to your activities, hand-wash inside out with mild detergent and line dry.
As common sense dictates, riding horses for a living or clerking at the DMV will affect time between laundries.

Refer to charts below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

Sportsman Chinos Beach Sportsman Chinos Indigo

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL
a)
Beach Chino Twill: $289.95
b)
Indigo Métisse Twill: $329.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email
sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

By the way, nothing personal Chip, I am sure you are sincere in longing for a cleaner Planet. Maybe some Tide™ would help.
Ooh, if you see Bart, kindly mention his tab. No, not the red one, he’ll know. Thanks.

Yours Truly,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane MFSC “Apaches” Fall 2011 (Part 1): Gilet Métisse

MFSC Gilet Metisse Apache

  
 

Our first MFSC Apaches Fall delivery is in!

If you’ve missed the Spring pitch, here it is again (if you know it by heart, skip the skit and scroll down for the low down on the SPECS)

The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.

They were called Les Apaches

Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.

For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty  larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.

In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.

Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…

MFSC Fall 2011, APACHES Collection: Gilet de Ville métisse

SPECS:
PATTERN
: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This fabric is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC  lightweight black moleskine, all cotton, 5 oz.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
DETAILS:
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
 * Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER:  Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: The gilet comes RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC. 
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.
Some not-so-serious fit pix here

Gilet Métisse Sizing Chart

Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane: VESTE OUVRIER…V’la les Apaches! (Part. 1)

Veste_Ouvrier_BOXES

Veste_Ouvrier_FRONT Veste_Ouvrier_BACK
 Veste_Ouvrier_CHEST Veste_Ouvrier_COLLAR

Veste_Ouvrier_inBOX Veste_Ouvrier_SWATCHES

Veste_Ouvrier_COMPO

MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE Spring 2011 Collection “Les Apaches”: VESTE OUVRIER

Voila l’été…et voila les Apaches!

I would like to thank everyone involved in making this collection a reality, all the believers, supporters, risk takers and hard workers, especially our friends at Sugar Cane Co   for their unconditional support with this new MFSC collaboration.

MFSC Veste Ouvrier (workman’s jacket):
Inspired by early french work wear gear, the first installment of the MFSC Apache collection is a our version of a french worker’s coat. We combined elements of several 1900’s to 1940’s pieces to make our veste ouvrier. We kinda like that one…

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern and fit, inspired by early french bleu de chauffe.
FABRIC: Two options (fabrics loomed in Japan exclusively for MFSC):
A) INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
B) INDIGO Rayure: 8 oz. indigo/white  warp and black weft striped twill, herringbone weave, white selvedge, un-sanforized (respectfully lifted from a late 1800’s swatch of french textile). Fades…
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button-front.
DETAILS:
* Original slanted button holes, to keep straight vertical closure.
* Inside white cotton twill pocket backing, to reinforce pocket top edges.
* Concealed chest pocket, with flap covering the MFSC woven label (NO visible branding/logo, so you don’t feel like a billboard…).
* Cinch back belt, with original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: guaranteed to mess up your car seat, but we figured they have been around on battle fileds and in factories since the 1840’s, so we’re taking the risk in 2011…). The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs.
* Concealed chin strap.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle french seams, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: Both fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink lightly with cold wash/hang dry.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized/labelled in french! (all the way, baby…).
92 (small), 97 (medium), 102 (large), 107(Xlarge), 112(XXlarge)
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork will be featured on the Apache Collection box tops. Merci M’sieur Pat’…
LIMITED EDITION: For US and EU, a total of 130 jackets were made
A) 70 pieces of INDIGO Métisse veste Ouvrier
B)
60 pieces of INDIGO Rayure veste Ouvrier

Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL, XXL
Indigo Métisse
(solid): Retail $579.95
Indigo Rayure
(stripe): Retail $549.95

NOTE:
The Indigo métisse veste ouvrier featured in the above photos has been worn ‘in the field’ on/off for about 2 months, washed cold about 5 times, minimal soap, hang dry. NFS. Production jackets are NOT distressed and are available UNWASHED only.

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC “Midnight” P-JACKET

P-Jacket-Full

MFSC “Midnight” P-JACKET, Fall 2010

OK. It’s about time to drop this bomb. Latest and last piece of the MFSC Fall 2010 Collection to hit the ground, closing the  “our sailor buddied up with our motor-cycle riders” concept ( Naval Clothing Tailor meets Speed Safe Clothing)… One of the easiest jacket to wear ever, with dungarees, chinos etc…No fear of the “Texas Tuxedo” dilemma, since the “midnight twill” fabric doesn’t look anything like ‘regular’ denim twill.
Here she goes:

SPECS:
PATTERN
: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by early 1910’s -1920’s USN and US Coast Guard Melton wool Peacoats
FABRIC: Body: Coarse weave 16 oz indigo “black back denim” twill (indigo warp x black weft), aka “Midnight Twill”. 100% cotton. White ID selvedge. Woven in Japan, exclusive MFSC. Indigo bleeding to be expected and anticipated. The white core of the indigo yarn will surface with proper wear and will give amazing patina to the coat over time. All kinds of blues!
LINING: Inner full lining, 10 oz. plain weave indigo/natural white woven cloth, all cotton, woven in Japan
CLOSURE: 10 button front, USN style early “13 Star” buttons. Full front closure with collar up and throat latch for windy deck conditions.
POCKETS: Two outside slash “hand warmer” pockets and two flap pockets (all lined with 100% cotton wide wale corduroy). Inside chest pocket and “cigarette” pocket. The flaps are made from lighter 10 oz. “black back denim” with royal blue selvedge ID.
STITCHING: All cotton thread stitching, ‘oxydized faded’ black colour.
DETAILS: Owner’s own identification wide white sheeting neck label, ready for perso ID stenciling (a detail from early French military gear), back selvedge vent, concealed detachable throat latch under collar, ZigZag stand collar reinforcement stitching…

CLEANING: Can be hand rinsed with cold water and minimal soap,  dry-cleanable. Extended wear and abuse recommended before washing is considered, to maximize patina over time.
SHRINKAGE: With full washing/drying (again, not recommended, fabric will ‘marble’ with strong machine wash-cycle), a FULL size shrinkage is expected.

NOTE: The photos of the P-Jacket above are of a USED and worn coat. It was worn on/off for about 3-4 months, from raw condition… I just sprayed it with water early on, wore it until dry, to get some kind of minimal shrinkage in length and some fabric ‘twist’. I usually wear a 38, but sized down to a 36 since i wanted to wear this raw and never wash it.

The production MFSC P-Jackets are RAW and NOT distressed.

Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in japan by SUGAR CANE Co.

Available RAW
(unwashed)
Sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail $895.95

Call the store at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.

Mister Freedom ® “LIBERTY” Belts…

MF-Liberty-Belt-(2)

MF-Liberty-Belt-(1)  MF-Liberty-Belt

Mister Freedom® “LIBERTY” Belts…Fresh from our humming machines on the mezzanine!
Still in production stage, but here is a sneak peak of our take on a Naval uniform belt, for a Boatswain on Liberty leave…

SPECS:
* Fabric:New Old Stock 10 oz. denim twill, Indigo yarn warp x Black yarn weft. Origin USA. While technically “denim”, the raw fabric looks like dark navy twill and is guaranteed to age beautifully.
* Pattern: An original MF® pattern. The denim is four-fold for thickness and sturdiness.
* Hardware: Vintage slide metal buckles and tips, Military Specs, mixed colours and aging.
Stitching:Five row stitching, all cotton royal blue thread, hi-count stitch, guaranteed to “rope”.
* Labeling: Original MF label, “Property of MF” hand painted stencil on INSIDE of belt.
* Origin: All made in USA in our no-sweat shop!
* Limited Edition.

(Available RAW or RINSED. One size fits all/adjustable. Retail $89.95)

Call (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.