Mister Freedom® “SNIPES” Shirt, Buzz Rickson’s USN Indigo Chambray, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, raw ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, rinsed ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Fabric evo: Mister Freedom® unworn “SNIPES Shirt” (2020) and well-worn “PATROL Shirt” (2014), featuring a completely different pattern, but cut from the same “BR” indigo chambray.

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom “SNIPES” Shirt, “BR” indigo blue 5 Oz. selvedge chambray.
FW 2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” Collection.
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® SNIPES is inspired by the earliest model of US Gov-issued full button front uniform shirt.

Identified as Specs “No. 8-26C Shirt, Flannel, Olive-Drab, Coat Style” by the Quartermaster Corps, it was introduced sometime in 1933 and issued to US Army and Air Corps personnel and FDR’s CCC enrollees alike. This new uniform shirt pattern was deemed “Coat Style”, marking a practical departure from its predecessor, the mustard color pullover wool shirt commonly associated with WW1 Doughboys. The overall design was borrowed from civilian workwear, back when utilitarian garment-making skills bordered on fancy tailoring prowess. This is definitely an intricate pattern by today’s workwear clothing standards.

Besides the full six-button front placket improvement, the characteristics of the early 8-26C shirt included a one-piece unstructured collar (no collar band), a singular style of elbow reinforcement patch, and two large functional chest pockets, each with a pen compartment.

The Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt retains all of that military design DNA, but we opted for an indigo blue chambray fabric treatment instead of the original US Army OD wool blend release. The slubby indigo chambray is complimented by the olive green contrast stitching and button facing poplin placket, with a touch of red on the side bartacks.

That premium selvedge chambray fabric is a favorite of ours. Developed by Buzz Rickson’s for their vintage US Navy utility shirts repros, it has become a staple of the mfsc shirting catalog for some time. See the Continental, Tonkinoise and Patrol Shirt, all released in that exact same fabric. Some of the product photos above feature a well-worn BR chambray Patrol Shirt from 2014, for fabric evo ref.

Blending 1930s US Army uniform shirt design with 1940-50s US Navy period mil-specs fabric, this original MF® shirt needed a new moniker. Because of the strong vintage naval utility chambray work shirt vibe, we went for SNIPES. The term refers to US Navy enlisted personnel working in the engine room, the “sailors that sail below”, also known as “Black Gang” for their grease-covered blues and dixie cup covers. See Machinist’s Mate Jake Holman’s dungarees for a Hollywood rendition.

The MF® SNIPES Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC: Period mil-specs USN “Buzz Rickson’s” indigo blue chambray, slubby 5 Oz. fabric, white with blue line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by a vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform classic.
* Full 6 button front opening.
* Rounded tails.
* Olive corozzo wood buttons.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets with pen compartments.
* Unstructured one-piece collar.
* Elbow reinforcement patches.
* Olive poplin button placket facing.
* Chainstitch construction with narrow folder.
* All cotton olive color contrast stitching.
* Red bartack in lieu of side gussets.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The BR chambray SNIPES Shirt comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I personally opted for a MEDIUM for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs., and although the SMALL did fit with more of a trim uniform silhouette, it was a bit too tight in the chest.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

 

 

Mister Freedom® Continental “RIVIERA” Two-Piece Suit, cotton-linen indigo selvedge chambray, SS2019, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Continental “RIVIERA” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers).
Cotton-Linen Indigo Selvedge Chambray.
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA

We have concocted this latest iteration of the Mister Freedom® “Continental” pattern with your next escapade to the Côte d’Azur in mind. Say bonjour to the elegant yet unpretentious, travel-friendly yet très chic Spring 2019 Continental “RIVIERA” two-piece suit.

Since its inception in early 2016, our Continental suiting concept – a casual unstructured sportcoat and trousers combo, all made-in-USA and today a staple of the Mister Freedom® SPORTSMAN catalog – has become a favorite for the International Man of Mystery who digs the re-bop, and the “FlipFlops and TankTop-Free Air Travel Club” frequent flyer.
After checking into your penthouse at Le Majestic, and as you enjoy the view of the bustling Croisette from the apartment’s balcony, unpack the RIVIERA suit rolled in your suitcase. Hang the set in the bathroom while showering, for a quick MacGyver-style steaming job. You are ready to head on over to the Promenade, for an invigorating stroll amongst rude locals and paparazzi.

The Spring 2019 release of the Continental, the “RIVIERA” edition set, comes in a luxurious chambray fabric, an old MF® favorite previously featured on the Naval Chinos Type No.266ic and the Breezer Type II.
This fine indigo selvedge chambray is a slubby, tightly-woven blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen, plain weave dark indigo warp with unbleached weft yarns, a dry and crispy-hand fabric flashing a white/red stripe selvedge ID, exclusively milled in Japan for mfsc.
Quite reminiscent of the 1950’s French Marine Nationale utility uniform fabric that had inspired our Sea Hunt ‘MN” Crew Pants (see original 2014 blog post), this chambray features a darker, reddish indigo hue, and a higher thread count than its naval counterpart.

Interestingly, chambray fabric, as it is known today, finds its roots in the city of Cambrai, Northern France, a busy textile hub since the Middle Ages. For centuries the region produced dyer’s woad and its industry was notorious for woolen cloth, woven linen and draperies. Cambrai became associated with fine linen Batiste or Cambric cloths, precursors of today’s popular chambray fabric.

The elegant fabric drape and classic texture of our cotton-linen chambray make it a perfect candidate for the MF® Continental suiting family. In popular culture, chambray fabric is often relegated to its blue prison workshirt status. But, just as duck canvas is not mere tent material, chambray is a noble textile, with endless applications in “heritage fashion”.
One might feel uncomfortable with the concept of a suit made of chambray, a cloth type often associated with shirting. But like denim twills, not all chambrays are created equal. They vary in weight, fiber content, color, thread count, finish, drape, Country of Origin, etc… The vintage clothing connoisseur will agree that the MF® RIVIERA cotton-linen indigo chambray perfectly qualifies as a classic summer suiting fabric.

For your mix & match pleasure, eclectic iterations of the Continental Sportcoat are already available in fine NOS fabrics such as an indigo crosshatch twill, two shades of grey cotton-linen twills, a light indigo “Player” denim, an elegant tropical “Congo Gabardine” cotton-linen twill, and a black pigment-coated “JC” denim twillThese can be paired with the Continental Trousers previously released in brown Cacao Chambray, indigo Crosshatch Denim Twill, light indigo “Player” Denim (aka Harlem Slim Special), and black-coated “JC” denim.

Bottom line, theMister Freedom® Continental “RIVIERA” indigo chambray edition is a solid, trust-worthy, low-maintenance travel companion and closet essential, when you need that extra dress-up touch at your destination, or when you just gotta TCB without the salaryman vibe.
Additionally, your indigo chambray suit is guaranteed to age gracefully over time. With normal wash/wear, the RIVIERA will acquire an attractive natural patina, the perks of well-made apparel cut from proper fabric and not factory-distressed. This is a sure way for MF® gear to retain high resale value on the international secondhand market, a fact that our hard-working MF® gang is quite proud about.

The “RIVIERA” is available as a matching Sportcoat/Trousers two-piece set, but also as individual pieces for a mix & match look.

The mfsc Continental “RIVIERA” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers) in Cotton-Linen Indigo Chambray is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
A fine indigo selvedge chambray, a slubby, tightly-woven blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen, plain weave dark indigo warp with unbleached weft yarns, a dry and crispy hand fabric featuring a characteristic white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled Japan.
Pocket bags and waist band: Fancy New Old Stock 100% cotton woven stripe twill, Italian origin.

Continental “RIVIERA” SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and easily folded, perfect traveling companion.
* Late 50’s, early 60’s vibe high button front.
* Fabric selvedge concealed in the pocket construction.
* Tonal corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with facing fabric.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, all clean caballo (chainstitch) flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

Continental “RIVIERA” TROUSERS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Tonal corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Fabric selvedge displayed on the leg split outer seam.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill pocket bags & waist band .
* NOS indigo twill fly/cinch facing.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT
This
 explains how we size our garments.
The “RIVIERA” Continental Sportcoat and trousers come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat  and Waist 32 trousers. These are my usual sizes in the Continental series and most mfsc garments.

Due to the specific fabric drape of the indigo chambray, the Continental RIVIERA might feel a bit more generously-cut than its slim-fitting black-coated denim “JC” predecessor. This is more noticeable on the RIVIERA trousers, that tend to look like they feature a wider leg than previous Continental trousers, but feature very similar measurements.

Trousers sizing: The Continental Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured waist 32 inches, you are most-likely a tagged W32 in the RIVIERA Continental Trouser. Although we do not recommend sizing up on this RIVIERA edition, please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with very muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.

Trousers hemming: After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The cotton fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you. I opted for a classic 1 1/4 fold, and subtle period flood.
Style-wise, consider avoiding bulky denim rolls, over-played BRMC cuffing and unsightly “stacked look” with these classic slacks. Look-up “traditional trouser break” for an old-school, adult silhouette.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Fit pic: wearing a size 38 jacket and W32 trousers.)

CARE:
This unstructured cotton jacket and these trousers are low-maintenance garments, but should be treated with care.
When needed, machine wash the MF® Continental “RIVIERA” Sportcoat and trousers on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash separately to avoid potential color transfer.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended and could damage the garment.

Continental “RIVIERA” SPORTCOAT:
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Continental “RIVIERA” TROUSERS:
Sizes (Leg length about 36’’, left un-cuffed)
28
30
32
34
36
38

Continental “RIVIERA” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat + Trousers):
Available separately or as a two-piece suit (same fabric only, any size combination, rebate issued at PayPal check out.)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom Naval Chinos, Type No.266ic, indigo chambray, selvedge cotton-linen, Spring 2018 mfsc Surplus Collection.

Featuring the MF® Roadsteader and Caban Peacoat.

Mister Freedom® mfsc Naval Chinos, Type No.266ic, cotton/linen indigo chambray issue.
Spring 2018 mfsc “SURPLUS” catalog.
Made in Japan

Our popular “mfsc Naval Chinos” are back this Spring!
These classic trousers are a nod to the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, dating back to the earliest collaboration with our Japanese friends from Sugar Cane Co. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, we initially issued them in a combination of subtly contrasting mil-specs khaki chino twills under the “Naval Chinos Type No.266” moniker. An edited version called Type II was released in 2010.
For our smashing 2016 Ten Year Anniversary, two new models were cut, one in a dark indigo canvas and the other in a khaki chino twill, both under “Naval Chinos Type No.266ac”.

We are releasing a very distinct version for Spring 2018, and are excited to introduce a luxurious vintage-inspired fabric new to our catalog. This fine indigo selvedge chambray, a slubby tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen, was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan. Quite reminiscent of the 1950’s French Marine Nationale utility uniform fabric that had inspired our Sea Hunt Spring 2014 Crew Pants (see original blog post here), this 2018 textile features a darker and more of a reddish indigo hue, a denser weave, and a selvedge with white/red stripe ID.
The leg construction is a flat-felled seam type, same as vintage army chinos, so we played with the fabric selvedge by displaying it in the facing of the five pockets (front slash, rear welt and watch pocket.)

Our mfsc Naval Chinos feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy. The light-weight crisp chambray fabric makes them a stylish addition to one’s summer wardrobe, easy to pair with solid Skivvies, stripeys, Saint-Malo, …, or plain button down shirts. The indigo chambray will age gracefully with repeat wear/wash cycles, and we look forward seeing some outstanding worn specimen down the line!

The MF® “Type No.266ac” mfsc Naval Chinos, cotton/linen indigo chambray, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
A fine, tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen indigo chambray, slubby texture, white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled Japan.
Pocket bags and waist band are made from 100% cotton woven stripe ticking, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Type 266ic Naval Chinos, indigo chambray, come raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size after an initial soak. We recommend a 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, spin dry, hang dry. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers.
Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above method.

CARE:
Wash when needed. We recommend washing on delicate cycle/cold water/eco-friendly detergent. Turning the trousers inside out will help avoid marbling. Line dry.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Retail: $349.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018