OG-107 Cotton sateen-back Sportsman Chinos, Fall 2014. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

OG-107 Cotton Sateen-back Chino Trousers
“The Sportsman” Fall 2014

This might come as a surprise to the original gangster in cell 107, but OG-107 is a reference to the shade #107 of Olive Green that the US Army had settled on as the color of  its uniforms, sometime in the early 1950’s. It became by extension a nickname for the set of utilities the issued to military personnel.

For those who enjoy discussing shades of green in the military at the family dinner table, here is a good starting point for interesting historical facts and references, such as:

…”On 7 April 1950, the Uniform Board presented its first uniform display to the General Staff. In order to provide a wide range of color choices, the QMC dressed mannequins in 31 uniforms of different color combinations but of similar design. Among the colors were the 16 shades of gray-green, three shades of gray, five of blue, and one of taupe. For comparison, the uniform line-up included the existing olive-drab and green and pink Army uniforms, and the Navy, Air Force, Marine Corps and U.S. Military Academy uniforms.“…

Follow this insider’s scoop by this piece of goodness, for more than you are probably willing to read about OD vs. OG, Army Green 44 vs. Olive Drab shade 7…
Please keep in mind that the more punctilious the regulations, the more arguably accurate the dye batches and paint mixes delivered by contracted manufacturers. Wartime production crunch time didn’t help either.

Back on point, I’d love to tell you we raided an abandoned storage brick building around the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot and scored a few rolls of NOS mil-specs OG cotton sateen fabric for our “Sportsman” chinos… Instead, we settled for a yardage batch from the folks at Buzz Rickson’s, who know a thing or two about period mil-specs textiles.
One might be familiar with this specific fabric, technically a  “4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) 9 Oz. cotton back sateen”, as it is similar to the shell part of the US Army M-51 field jacket (save for the water-repellent treatment and the shade of green).

M51 Pantone Mister Freedom

Because we were more preoccupied with getting an even tan than with re-inventing the wheel this summer, we decided to roll with our classic Sportsman chinos pattern, the flat felled side seam type. Already available in several fabric options the entire World envies us for, we are adding the OG-107 chinos to the catalog for Fall 2014, a civvy garment in a military fabric.
These pants have a late 1950’s type silhouette, quite comfortable by today standards. They won’t  prevent blood flow to the lower limbs, offering just enough room for an occasional mawashi geri  on Black Friday.

The Sportsman OG-107 Chinos are designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, fabric loomed  in Japan.

Please note that production comes without ID stencils on the waistband facing.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants.

FABRIC: Mil-specs Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green) 4/1 cotton back sateen
(An approx. Pantone Color reference would be  450 U)

DETAILS:
* Relaxed 1950′s type silhouette and fit.
* Natural corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam construction.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* The ever charming ‘crotch gusset’.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* Natural color 100% cotton sail cloth pocket bags, waist band and fly facing.
* Watch pocket, for which you will have to find a use.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/WASHING:
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size. The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size. This OG107 issue feels slightly slimmer than other Sportsman chinos versions, such as its Beach Chino twill or Indigo Métisse comrades, partly because of the flat felled outside seam construction vs. the plain seam type.
The bottom are left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch cuff, regular single needle machine stitch.

This cotton fabric is pretty low maintenance. Original cold soak and line dry. Further washing when needed, on gentle cycle, warm/cold water, line dry. If you insist on the heat dryer, turn trousers inside out to avoid issues with an undesirable ‘marbling’ effect.
Time between laundry will vary greatly according to one’s occupation and common sense: wash when dirty.

Refer to charts below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

Sportsman OD Chino Size Chart

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist Sizes: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $289.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Before purchasing your next pair of jeans from your favorite brand, consider this:

 

Denim Industry workers at Dadun Village, China (Photo by China Photos/Getty Images 2009)

No this is not our latest collection in the making… but the idea of those horrendous looking jeans finding buyers is puzzling to me.
My apologies for the disturbing above photo (© China Photos/Getty Images 2009), it is only borrowed to illustrate a brief column I just did for Mr. Theo Constantinou of PARADIGM MAGAZINE fame.

This first piece is called “From the Hips“. Its topic might be old news to some, hopefully enlightening to others. The agenda behind this humble editorial is neither self-serving nor net-working.
If you happen to wear jeans, and have the next 120 seconds available, spend them here.

Thank you for tuning in, share if you care.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

 

Mister Freedom® MFSC American Sportswear FAll 2011 (Part 1): NOS Chambray Shirt

 

Mister Freedom NOS Chambray shirt

The first installment of Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR” Collection is in: N.O.S. (New Old Stock) Chambray shirt

This Sportswear collection is all MADE in USA, an humble effort to keep factories busy at home, and to spend hard earned $ locally…
We chose NOS (New Old Stock, aka dead stock) fabrics for a lot of the items, selected from our collected stock of American vintage selvedged textiles. Not the easiest approach to manufacturing, since factories dread small batches, eclectic instructions, mixed fabric width and time consuming specific cut/sew…
We took the risks of the high road, and hope some will appreciate the efforts.

Imagery behind this collection is California mid 50’s to 60’s, from ranches, orange groves to Pacific shores. From off stage gear of the Hollywood cool cats, to Hipsters and Beats garb. Revisited MF® style.

SPECS
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slim fit.
FABRICS: Four options of NOS all cotton slubby chambray and one NOS stripe twill (i’ll spare you the color fancy naming game)
a)Blue cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
b) Black cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
c)Red cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
d) Green cotton selvedge Chambray, about 4.5 oz.
e)Indigo/white stripe cotton selvedge twill, about 6 oz.
FACING: NOS blue cotton popeline, selvedge (used for collar band, button placket and gussets)
DETAILS:
* Two MF® original chest flap pocket pattern (I-thank you Mr. Jobs-phone fits perfectly in right pocket, and won’t fly out when closed)
* Elbow reinforcement
* Double needle chainstitch felled seam construction
* 100 % cotton thread stitching
BUTTONS: Original MFSC metal painted buttons. Combination of solid and “MFSC” debossed buttons.
LABELING: MFSC printed cloth inside label. Lower front panel stitched on paper flasher (Tear off before washing or wearing, do not  remove stitching, it is supposed to stay there) 
SHRINKAGE: To avoid confusion and surprises, all shirts are WASHED and hung dry (no dryer, to keep the light startchy crispy effect). So the initial shrinkage of the 100% cotton fabrics is taken care of.
We didn’t pre-wash the fabrics before cut/sew to preserve the ropping/twisting cherished effects, but felt like -unlike denim items- a shirt gets washed often and should be low maintenance.
SIZING:
Due to ‘out of control’ shrinkage of the older fabrics and several batches of assorted rolls, variations have occured within the different colour options. (If you are familiar with our sizing fits, you will probably need to size up in the Blue Chambray… see chart below)

NOS Chambray Sizing Chart

NOS Chambray Sizing Chart

Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, Manufactured in California. Limited edition.

Available WASHED only
Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Retail $199.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.