Mister Freedom® CPO shirt and Naval Chinos, “SAN PABLO” Liberty Edition, Selvedge GB denim, mfsc Fall 2018

 

Mister Freedom® CPO Shirt & Naval Chinos, limited “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition.
Surplus collection mfsc Fall 2018.
Made in Japan.

What we have here is our elusive 2009 blue shirt pattern, familiar to the MF® OGs, and its Naval Clothing Tailor khaki-legged friend, both given the GB denim treatment.
After an epic 2016 apparition in a smashing OMG-so-stiff-it-makes-my-body-ache 11.7 Oz. indigo canvas fabric, the ol’ MF® blue CPO and Chinos are indeed turning green this Fall.

Mustering-up our best one-trick-pony skills and cow-milking mastery, this 2018 iteration features an old mfsc flame, the olive green 10 Oz. selvedge denim twill inspired by 1940’s-50’s British military utility fabric. This green denim was initially introduced in 2016 via the Garrison shirt and twill pants combo, during our exciting and controversial 2015 Saigon Cowboy season and its fierce keyboard snipers.
The traditional “Liberty” treatment to US Navy dress blues and other garments is by now familiar to all heritage clothing aficionados. We have often respectfully ‘played’ with that concept of custom concealed style extravaganza.
See gallery below for a brief visual recap.

This season, we decided to give a 1966 “The Sand Pebbles” classic movie twist to our fictional CPO and Chinos combo. For those interested in the historical background of Opium Wars, or intrigued by the sound of “… when U.S. warships patrolled China’s rivers…”, a condensed summary of the period can be found here.

So as to not get lost down the usual rabbit hole, we will leave authentic 1920’s stories of the U.S. Asiatic Fleet to military buffs, and refer you to Hollywood’s light version of things, for an excitement-filled evening with Jake Holman and the USS San Pablo patrolling the Yangtze in 1926.
You savvy?

The MF® CPO shirt and Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
“GB denim twill”: An olive green warp and natural weft 100% cotton twill, 10 Oz., orange color selvedge ID. Inspired by the fabric of 1940’s-50’s British military utility overalls and blouses. Milled in Japan.

MF® CPO shirt “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition:
DETAILS:
* Original mfsc shirt pattern initially released in 2008, freely inspired by period USN uniforms, 1930’s – 1940’s military shirting, naval custom tailoring and vintage “Chief Petty Officer” type shirts.
* Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring vintage-style ’Liberty cuffs’, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors.
* Concealed mfsc dragon embroidered patches on cuffs, 100% rayon.
* Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…)
* Concealed chest passport/iPhone® pocket.
* Original MF® inverted box-pleat arcuate single chest pocket design.
* Chin strap.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Vintage style button front placket, anodized black snap closure.
* Waist closure and chin strap USN plastic anchor button.
* Reinforcement shoulder yoke, vintage uniform style.
* Arcuate back yoke.
* OD popeline facing.
* Curvy front and back shirt tails.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Designed in USA, manufactured in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The “San PABLO” CPO Shirt in GB denim comes raw/unwashed/loomstate.
We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
* As an optional step, wear the garment briefly while still damp, in order to shape it to your body and set your own creases. Hang and let fully dry (try to shape the gshirt on the hanger to look as if you are still wearing it.)

Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I am a Medium in most mfsc shirting and opted for a Medium in the “SAN PABLO” CPO shirt. No need to size up or down from your usual mfsc shirting size. The military-inspired and uniform-style cut emphasizes a broad shoulders and slim waist silhouette.
Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.

CARE:
Wash your shirt when necessary.
We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side.
Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

MF® Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition:
DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring a vintage-style ’Liberty’ patch, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors.
* Concealed embroidered mfsc dragon 100% rayon patch on bottom leg, over-riding an un-marked military-style ID patch.
* Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…)
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The “SAN PABLO” Naval Chinos in GD denim come raw/unwashed/loomstate.
We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.

Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers.
Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.

CARE:
Wash your pants when necessary.
We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side.
Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.

Both CPO shirt and Naval Chinos available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store,  and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

 

The Garrison Shirt, double indigo twill and GB olive green denim twill, Saigon Cowboy Fall 2015

Garrison Shirt Mister Freedom Fall 2015

Garrison Shirt Mister Freedom Fall 2015

 

Garrison Shirt Mister Freedom Fall 2015

Garrison Shirt Mister Freedom Fall 2015

Garrison Shirt Mister Freedom Fall 2015

The Garrison Shirt, GB denim twill & Double indigo twill
SAIGON COWBOY Fall 2016

 

From Saigon, the beat goes on
American Forces Vietnam Network (AFVN)  Channel 54 Aircheck.

AFVN 1970 (Courtesy Bob Mays)

AFVN 1970 (Courtesy Bob Mays)

The background and our intentions with this “Saigon Cowboy” collection has been outlined in the Spring 2015 intro, and in the subsequent posts illustrating each released garment.
The Evac Jak, the ‘Tahiti’ Shirt, Experimental Camo Utes, Tiger Board Shorts, Denim Utility Jacket, the Continental, Denim Utility Trousers, along with the Party Jacket all made for the first volume of the “Saigon Cowboy” collection.

For Fall, we will leave the 60’s Rock’n’Roll Flash vibe (a reference to an essay in Tim Page’s book NAM) and the Michael Herr’s “Dispatches” atmosphere behind, and turn instead to the Viet Nam of the first half of the 20th Century, when that part of South East Asia was known to most French nationals as Indochine, a term then encompassing Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.
To the French, l’Indo meant a distant colony with ties to France stretching back to the 1850’s. A land of rich ancient culture. Guaranteed exotic adventures for the Troupes Coloniales. Challenging  for early missionaries but a great source of commodities for settlers, in the form of rubber, coal, silk, rice, opium. Opportunities of prosperity and disparity for the local population…
All in all, perfect grounds for a lengthy and gruesome war of Independence.
French colonists called it home up until 1954, the French government eventually passing the imperialistic baton to the United States, already well familiar with the place, as the US Congress had been funding 80% of the French war efforts to keep its colony. In 1975, that baton was dropped, up for grabs for China and the USSR.

Amongst Vietnamese nationals, specifically those who still prefer to call Ho Chi Minh City by its old name, Saigon, a story circulates. It goes something like this… One day, Hanoi officials requesting economic aid from Moscow received a cable back that read: “Please tighten your belts”, to which Hanoi comrades replied “Please send belts”.

On September 2nd,  the streets of Hanoi filled up with parades celebrating Ngày Quốc Khánh, National Day in Vietnam, marking the 70th anniversary of the declaration of independence from France, and Japan, in 1945.

Vietnamese Soldiers 2015 (Photo Minh Hoang EPA)

Vietnamese Soldiers parading in Hanoi on Sept 2nd 2015 (Photo Minh Hoang EPA)

It is in the Indochine of the 1930’s, 40’s and 50’s that we have tapped for inspiration for the follow-up season of our “Saigon Cowboy” spring venture. Again, not to glamorize that past, not to take it either lightly or literally, and not to duplicate costumes for reenactors. But to acknowledge it existed, consider its place in World History, and its relevance today. And also because of the strange fascination the Vietnam War exerts, once one starts opening History’s Pandora’s box.

This season, wading through brown waters and green jungles, up arroyos of the Mekong Delta or down “La Rue Sans Joie“, with occasional high land encounters with montagnards, we will bounce between dark indigo (a reference to Black Hmong, hill tribes of Sapa, North Vietnam) and shades of green foliage.

Hmong Indigo (Courtesy Danielle Smith) Vietnam (Courtesy Through5eyes blog) Jos Henri Ponchin Aroyo (1931) Marins dans les Arroyos Jean Mauclere (1951)

Meanwhile, back at LZ 7161, first to drop of the Saigon Cowboy Fall 2015 collection is the Garrison Shirt, a plausible candidate for a 40’s local tailor-made officer shirt, for those with a large dose of imagination.
Our shirt is somewhat of an ‘international mutt’, and combines elements of both European and American vintage clothing and custom military uniform. Its stern appearance conceals the very intricate pattern work and challenging tailoring. The button placket features the fabric selvedge, concealed for the tuck-in crowd. At the risk of sounding like a car salesman, the attentive to detail will notice the complex folding of the placket, the tricky elbow patch pattern, and all around involved construction.
We have developed two fabrics for this garment. A dark indigo on indigo twill, reminiscent of a previous mfsc fabric known as ‘midnight twill’, and an olive green denim inspired by the fabric of a 1950’s British military utility blouse. Both textiles are milled in Japan.

Vintage 1952 British Military utility blouse.

Vintage 1952 British Military utility blouse.

The Garrison Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
A)
“Double indigo twill”: An indigo warp and indigo weft 100% cotton denim twill, 12.4 Oz., white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
B) “GB denim twill”: An olive green warp and natural weft 100% cotton twill, 10 Oz., orange color selvedge ID. Inspired by the fabric of 1940’s-50’s British military utility overalls and blouses. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage military EU and US uniform shirts and tailor-made garments.
* Intricate button placket construction, exposed selvedge.
* Double chest pockets, arcuate flaps, one cut away pocket.
* Corrozo wood buttons.
* Elbow reinforcement patches.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Flat felled seams, chainstich construction.
* 100% cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT
Both fabric options come raw/unwashed and will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold rinse and line dry process. The Garrison Shirts are true to size, in a rather flattering uniform cut. I wear a Medium in both, my usual size for mfsc shirting.
Please refer to sizing chart for measurements reflecting a 30mn cold soak no agitation/line dry.

Tonkinoise Chambray

Tonkinoise Chambray

Tonkinoise Denim

Tonkinoise Denim

CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling when washing.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
WARNING: The double indigo twill will naturally bleed, and color transfer to light color garments or furniture is to be expected. Indigo transfer will wash-off overtime.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

RETAIL
A) Double Indigo Twill: $349.95
B) GB denim Twill: $329.95

Soon available from www.misterfreedom.comfine retailers around the World, and our outstanding Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for reading and for your support