FW2021 « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64-JC, 14 Oz. indigo-dyed Jungle Cloth, mfsc FW2021. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN LOT.64-JC, indigo-dyed 14 Oz. Jungle Cloth edition.
mfsc FW2021 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Alert the media, the MF® Californian is back, and this time in non-selvedge fabric!
The Lot.64 is our most-popular five-pocket pattern, featuring a straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, and a classic 1960s silhouette.

“Jungle Cloth” is a trade name for heavy warp-faced corded fabric, in which the cords run in the warp (vertical) direction. This all-cotton grosgrain fabric of the corduroy family is high density, rugged, water-repellent and windproof, and has roots in 1920s civilian flight gear. It is commonly associated with US Navy foul weather deck personnel clothing, with the iconic N-1 and its many iterations in Heritage fashion.

Why it was called “Jungle Cloth” remains a mystery to me, and the earliest mention of the fabric I could find is in a 1914 book titled “Hunting in the Arctic and Alaska”, in a chapter listing the author’s personal outfit of choice for a cruise in the Arctic:

Jungle Cloth is described as “Modified Bedford Cords” in a volume of “Standard Commodity Classification” from 1945. Its US production ramped up during WW2 due to large US Government contracts for the US Navy. The Crompton-Shenandoah Plant in Virginia handled a large chunk of the wartime production, having adapted its long-established velveteen-milling machinery to meet the mil-specs Jungle Cloth demand.

Excerpt from US Senate hearings on Trade Agreements, 1955.

This interesting 1955 “Trade Agreements” US Senate official document discusses the struggle of the American fabric milling industry, overwhelmed by cheaper labor competition from Italian and Japanese factories at the time. During the hearings, a Crompton-Shenandoah representative mentions “the average hourly earnings in the cotton textile industry are about $1.35 (in the US) , the Italian textile hourly average wage is 24 cents, the Japanese 13 cents… The best Japanese velveteen, and it is good, is for sale in New York, duty paid, at 21 cents per yard lower than our manufacturing cost…”
Fabric milling in the US struggled until the 1980s, and is today a shadow of what it once was, although domestic textile manufacturing has seen a revival in recent years.
It is also quite ironic that in 2021, Japanese and Italian textiles are considered premium and are very costly, and that domestic production in Japan and Italy is now constantly challenged by unbeatable competition from China, Bangladesh, India, South East Asia, Haiti, South Africa… Hard to compete indeed with $95/month wages such as those of Bangladeshi garment workers. Gambatte Nippon!

Our premium Jungle Cloth is milled in Japan and indigo-dyed by Japanese experts to a dark shade of indigo blue. This vintage mil-specs fabric initially developed by Buzz Rickson’s is an old MF® favorite. It has been previously featured on our Riders, N-1Z Deck Pants, M-17 Parka, and Mulholland Master. It ages beautifully and the patina of indigo-dyed Jungle Cloth is quite impressive.
(Note that his fabric is very light-sensitive, so store appropriately to avoid sun fading/fold marks.)

For pocketing, we opted for some older NOS olive green HBT. To keep a low profile, we went for tonal stitching and, due to the Jungle Cloth heavy ounce, chose cotton-wrap poly thread for sturdy construction and seam resistance.

The Californian LOT.64-JC blue jeans “Indigo Jungle Cloth” edition are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
High density 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, the notorious shell fabric of 1940’s US Navy N-1 deck jackets, dyed to a deep and dark indigo shade. (The face is textured by dense vertical cords, and the reverse feels soft and brushed.)
Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional 1950′s-1960’s era blue jeans, original Mister Freedom® classic fit.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Non-selvedge leg outseam, overlock.
* 100% cotton NOS olive green HBT pocketing.
* Tonal MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed black tea-core veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Tonal stitching, classic MF® Californian gauge combo, sturdy black cotton-wrap poly thread.
* Coin pocket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bartack stitching.
* Original MF® metal cast tack buttons combo, ‘oxidized’ silver for fly, brass for waist.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (Army green).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The CALIFORNIAN Lot.64-JC comes UN-WASHED. These jeans are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and line dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry. (Do not use heat dryer)

I went with a W31, for a snug top block and straight leg silhouette. I am about 5’7, 150 lbs. This fabric hardly stretches but softens with wear, and is very comfortable.

Disclaimer: Color crocking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments worn as under layers. Indigo rub-off should wash-off eventually. However, expect blue legs for a while.
Also, this fabric is very light-sensitive, so store appropriately to avoid sun fading/fold marks.

CARE:
Wash sporadically, only when needed. Spot clean with a damp rag to remove dirt/mud rather than wash.
When full cleaning is required, turn pants inside out to limit fabric marbling, set machine to DELICATE and wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics.
Heavy indigo crocking is to be expected for a while, so wash separately from all other garments. Indigo blue marks on the washing machine walls can be removed with a damp rag soaked in laundry detergent.

Do not use a heat dryer, hang dry instead.

Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Jacket, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim, mfsc FW2021. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Coat, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim.
mfsc FW2021 SPORTSMAN catalog.
Made in USA.

Hot on the trail of the recently-released Californian “Outlaw” and Ranch Blouse, in matching black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim, comes the Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Coat.

The pattern of this latest addition to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog was inspired by a blend of vague childhood memories of western-wear from screen characters (maybe James Stewart in “The Far Country” 1954, or Robert Fuller on “Laramie”?), visuals from old Marlboro ads, and vintage duck canvas chore coats I’ve come across through my rag-picking years.

: Robert Fuller in “Laramie” TV Series (1959-1963)

: James Stewart “The Far Country” (1954) Courtesy of Universal Pictures

After some detective work Texas Rangers-style, I realized that “South Texas Brush Jacket” is how this short and boxy unlined canvas coat style is often referred-to. A favorite amongst horsemen in thorny Brush Country terrain, the style became a staple piece of gear for Texas buckaroos and ranch hands, and was largely adopted by the gritty vaqueros from Northern Mexico such as the kineños, the OG cow-boys hired to work on King Ranch in the mid 1800s.
Early models may have been made from tin cloth, and it’s unclear of when the style actually originated (1920’s-30’s?)… On the theme of western fashion’s origins, short fascinating read here.
Some brush jacket specimen are featured on this 1949 “Vanishing Cowboy” LIFE Magazine shoot, as recently spotted by our friend, style acrobat and collector extraordinaire Enoch Bayrd.

Courtesy of LIFE “The Vanishing Cowboy” (1949)

Below is a collage of some old 1930s-70s photos published in a “Vaqueros of South Texas” public FB group, some of the vaqueros sporting Brush Jackets.

Period photos courtesy of Vaqueros of South Texas FB group.

The typical “Brush Jacket” as we know it was often cut from brown duck or, less-commonly, from bone white canvas, and readily available from saddle shops, dry goods stores and ranch supplies COOPs. Brands like FINESILVER Mfg. Co, a now-defunct workwear and military uniform maker, produced them for years in its downtown San Antonio factory in Texas. Carhartt probably had its own version, along with the brand’s iconic ¾ length barn coat classic and other duck canvas models.

Vintage 60s FINESILVER Mfg Co Brush Jacket, courtesy of Vacation.

Besides the signature cropped length of original Brush Jackets, one striking feature is the characteristic contrast corduroy trimming (collar, pocket openings and cuffs). It is said that the corduroy-lined collar was initially-intended to be easier on one’s sunburned neck… An old-school vaquero also mentions dipping his Brush Jacket in the horse trough in the hot summer days, and wearing it wet as a cooling layer.

Comes in our DESPERADO…
If the saddle length of the originals makes sense if your job description involves a horse, we figured we’d adapt the bolero-style cut to better serve the aesthetics of contemporary city dwellers, less likely to go roping stray cattle in the South Texas mesquite brush. The “cropped look” is an acquired taste, and not easy to pull-of for most.
Because we didn’t have a vintage specimen in our archives for pattern inspiration, we decided to merge our military dungaree FROGMAN jacket A-line style with traditional western-wear brush jacket specifics. A scribbled Post-it®, a rough pocket prototype, and some notes from the MF® Design Dept (we didn’t even have photos of originals at the time) were all it took for our friend Fukutomi San at Toyo Enterprises to draft an original pattern. The DESPERADO was born.

The keen eye will note that we added a slight curve to the arcuate on the corduroy pocket trimming, on the patch pocket bottom shape, and on the cuff piecing. This is in contrast with the common straight lines typical of purified utilitarian fashion, intended to be easier and faster to cut & sew. This subtle tweak, along with the single needle pocket construction add an elegant early workwear touch to the jacket.

For the fabric, we opted for the same fancy twill featured on our CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “Outlaw” and its matching RANCH BLOUSE: a premium mid-weight 13 Oz. selvedge denim combining a black sulfur-dyed warp yarn (fabric face) with a black sulfur-dyed weft (fabric reverse), produced on traditional shuttle looms by vintage textile experts in Japan.

Why DESPERADO? Partly because of Townes Van Zandt’s “Pancho & lefty”, a fine classic tune about a bandit and his partner (we are working on some MF® Spotify playlists for your listening pleasure btw, Pancho & Lefty is on Truck Stop Jukebox), and also because this is our friend Tom “Sugar Cane” Tanaka’s favorite Eagles’ album!

The MF® DESPERADO Brush Jacket in black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Mid-weight 13 Oz. solid black denim twill, sulfur-dyed warp x sulfur-dyed weft, selvedge (white with red line ID), 100% cotton, milled in Japan on traditional shuttle looms.
Trims: 100% cotton corduroy.

DETAILS:
* An original Mister Freedom® twist on the traditional western-wear “Brush Jacket”, barn coats, and military utility jackets.
* Three front patch pocket, one inside chest pocket.
* Tonal corduroy trimming for collar/pocket openings/cuffs.
* Curved arcuate trims and bottom pocket pattern.
* Metal button front closure, original Mister Freedom® mfsc cast silver tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper rivets pocket reinforcement.
* Split back featuring the fabric selvedge.
* Selvedge button front panel folded facing.
* All flat-felled seams chainstitch construction.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING:
The MF® DESPERADO Brush Jacket sulfur-dyed black denim twill comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
Washing machine spin dry cycle.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)

The DESPERADO is considered true-to-size. I opted for a 38 (Medium) for a comfortable fit (5.7’’ / approx. 150 lbs). The 36 (Small) felt too tight for the silhouette I was going for, although I had opted for a 36 in the navy HBT Frogman jacket.
As with all denim twills, minor back and forth shrinkage/stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
DENIM CARE:
Treat this black sulfur-dyed denim twill as you would premium indigo-dyed denim.
Wash sporadically, only when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® MERCURY Jacket, weatherproof 100% cotton poplin, mfsc FW2021 “PODIUM” Collection. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® MERCURY Running Jacket, weatherproof 100% cotton poplin.
mfsc FW2021 PODIUM collection.
Made in Japan

For FW2021, we are venturing into the world of vintage athletic wear with a colorful collection entitled PODIUM, the latest seasonal chapter of our long-standing collaboration with our friends at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprise).

Drawing inspiration from old school 1940s to 1980s activewear, from classic Track & Field uniforms and old-school PE (Physical education) gear or casual gym clothes, we blended timeless American and European influences in the Mister Freedom® mixer, and designed a no-nonsense selection of versatile sports-related gear. Taking the usual liberties with period fashions and fits, yet sticking to timeless aesthetics for authenticity, the eclectic styles in our PODIUM line-up will easily incorporate into any classic “heritage” wardrobe or gym locker. Practical and durable vintage-inspired gear for working out, or simply hanging out.

Our MERCURY Jacket draws its inspiration from the dynamic world of 70s-80s running clothes, vintage hi-tech “windsuits” and casual active sportswear. Check out old copies of Runner’s World Magazine ads for reference.

Photo courtesy of “Runner’s World Magazine”, 1983 ©David Keith RW Archives

Light weight, unlined body, two-tone panelling and raglan sleeves, ventilation back yoke with athletic “shimmel” mesh shoulder lining for air circulation, 70s style plastic zippers with colorful tape, zip-up high collar, practical adjustable snap cuffs… all blend-in for an old school running jacket style, the MF® MERCURY.
Regarding our choice of moniker, wing-capped Mercury was messenger of the gods in roman mythology, recalling the wing-footed messenger god Hermes of Greek mythology. See Champion’s “running man” 1940s-50s early labels for a similar reference.

For the body material, we decided to go vintage high-tech performance, and opted for an all cotton weatherproof poplin fabric milled in Japan. The textile is advertised as “super-high density 100% cotton fabric with great moisture permeability and waterproof property”. Apparently, the fabric prevents water from getting through (once the yarns are soaked and expend), yet allows sweat to evaporate… Don’t ask me, I just work here.

It is “weatherproof” rather than waterproof (will withstand light rain but is not fully waterproof), yet windproof, and with good breathability.
The mid-weight fabric (about 7 Oz.) has a crispy dry hand similar to traditional tightly-woven 100% cotton poplins, and is ridiculously good-looking. It works perfectly as body material for our purpose, a vintage-inspired windbreaker or running jacket.

For construction, we opted for clean seams inside and out, so the MF® MERCURY features flat-felled (chainstitch) throughout, not the common overlocked seams.

Our choice of recurring visible branding throughout the PODIUM collection is the discreet signature maritime signal flags logo, previously-designed for the Marina Shirt as a chest patch. Absolutely no reference to the flag of Scotland, the diagonal white cross on blue background pennant is international naval code for Mike, the letter “M”, and the red diamond on white background is Foxtrot, the letter “F”.

The MF® MERCURY Running Jacket is designed in California and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, weatherproof cotton poplin fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS

FABRIC:
All-weather fabric, super-high density 100% cotton poplin, about 7 Oz., water-resistant (not waterproof), windproof, breathable. Light weight, dry hand. Milled in Japan.
Color combo options:
a) Arctic white x Navy Blue (with red mesh)
b) Olive Green x Navy Blue (with orange mesh)

Rear yoke lining: 100% polyester athletic “shimmel” mesh.

DETAILS:
* Original mfsc design inspired by vintage high-tech 70s-80s active wear and running clothes.
* Unlined, streamlined.
* Water-resistant and windproof.
* Raglan sleeves.
* Two-tone contrast paneling.
* Vented back yoke with partial mesh lining for air circulation.
* Full zip front closure, 1970s-style plastic zipper with contrasting tape and swivel pulls.
* Zip-up high collar for throat protection, with zipper pull cover.
* Two lower pockets, zip closure.
* Adjustable snap cuffs, original mfsc-branded metal painted snaps.
* Flat-felled (chainstitch) construction throughout.
* Original mfsc “Podium” woven rayon label.
* Designed in USA, made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MERCURY Jacket comes raw (unwashed) and is ready-to-wear without any pre-treatment.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. I opted for my usual size in mfsc jacket, 38 (Medium). I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.

CARE:
We recommends dry-cleaning (eco-friendly facility) when possible.
Alternatively, spot clean: brush off/sponge off dirt, sand and mud.
If full cleaning is necessary, and dry-cleaning impractical, machine wash on delicate: turn garment inside out, warm water, pure liquid soap (no harsh synthetic detergent, no bleach etc), rinse thoroughly (until all soap residue is removed).
Shape on hanger and hang dry.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “OUTLAW” model, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim, mfsc FW2021. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “OUTLAW” model, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim edition.
mfsc FW2021 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

For Fall 2021, we are releasing our classic Ranch Blouse and Californian Lot.64 in a special solid black denim twill, developed and milled in Japan by Sugarcane Co.

This premium mid-weight 13 Oz. selvedge denim combines a black sulfur-dyed warp yarn (fabric face) with a black sulfur-dyed weft (fabric reverse), and is produced on traditional shuttle looms. The contrasting selvedge (white with red line) adds a fancy touch to the solid black denim twill.

Sulfur dyes are notorious for their lower colorfastness (resistance to fading), when compared to other dyeing methods, such as pigment dyes for instance. Sulfur-dyed fabric tends to naturally fade “faster”. Over time, with extensive wear and normal laundry routine, the black yarns will fade to dark/medium/light grey (eventually to white). The resulting attractive patina is reminiscent of well-worn traditional indigo-dyed denim, “whiskers” and all. See some faded Sugar Cane’s sulfur-dyed specimen here.

For Fall 2021, our original Ranch blouse design remains pretty much unchanged from its 2010 inception, A-1 style collar, unique slanted pockets on lower chest with single pocket flap, “M” stitching on pockets, pleated front with signature arrowhead darts stitching, 30s-style buckle back etc…

For the matching Californians, we opted for our popular Lot.64 cut – slightly tapered leg, mid rise, traditional silhouette – but decided to spice up the traditional five-pocket pattern by introducing a western-wear modification. The Lot.64-OTL features “frogmouth” type pocket openings, sometimes referred-to as western pockets, a detail often seen on early riding apparel. We have played around with this style in the past, with mfsc oldies such as the MF® Vaqueros, Buckaroos, Conductor Slacks, and most recently the Deputy Britches, from which the pocket opening pattern was borrowed and adapted to our new Californian “Outlaw”.
This western touch is subtle, but adds a cool twist to the classic five-pocket jeans, making the Lot.64-OTL the latest member of our Californian family.

Worn as a matching set, paired with indigo-dyed denim tops and bottoms, vintage pieces or contemporary heritage-style sportswear, this black denim ensemble is pretty versatile and easy to incorporate into a classic wardrobe.

The black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.64-OTL (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS
FABRIC:
Mid-weight 13 Oz. solid black denim twill, sulfur-dyed warp x sulfur-dyed weft, selvedge (white with red line ID), 100% cotton, milled in Japan on traditional shuttle looms.

FACING (collar lining, pocket flap, pocket bags):
New Old Stock (NOS) 3×1 denim, dark indigo, 100% cotton.

FW2021 RANCH BLOUSE, black sulfur-dyed denim edition:
DETAILS:
* All original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by vintage trucker-style denim work jackets.
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* Vintage boxy but slim silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® signature arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original lower chest double slanted pockets with “M” branding stitching, single pocket flap.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* Contrast NOS 3×1 denim facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Brass cast MF® branded tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer.
* Chainstitch construction, tonal dark navy blue thread, 100% cotton.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING FIT:
The black sulfur-dyed Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this black sulfur-dyed edition, a cold-soaked 38. I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.

FW2021 CALIFORNIAN “Outlaw” Lot.64-OTL, black sulfur-dyed denim edition:
DETAILS:
* Original Mister Freedom® classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Western-style “Frogmouth” front pocket opening pattern.
* Button fly, combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS 3×1 denim pocket bags.
* MF® original “M” branding stitch design on rear pockets.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread, gauge combination.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement bar tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (ivory white).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The black sulfur-dyed Californian Lot.64-OTL jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 with this model (my current waist size in MF® Californians), for a classic silhouette with a snug waist, comfortable top block and straight leg. I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
As with all denim twills, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
DENIM CARE:
Treat this black sulfur-dyed denim twill as you would premium indigo-dyed denim.
Wash denim jeans/jacket sporadically, only when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt (“McG” plaid heavy flannel) & DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt (Indigo-covert plaid & Brown dobby stripe) FW2021 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

: MF® Secoya McG plaid (Size Small)

: Vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt, fabric inspiration for the MF® Secoya “McG”

: Vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt.

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, “McG” plaid heavy flannel FW2021 edition.
mfsc Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

The SECOYA pattern combines two vintage garments, a rare 1930’s pull-over chin-strap work chambray with no label, and a 1940’s STURDY OAK work chambray with elaborate “Double-Panel” construction.
The defunct STURDY OAK label, the workwear division of Sears, Roebuck & Co, produced its famous “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern, often complimented with “Ventilation Eyelets”. Other bygone mail-order catalog companies such as Montgomery Ward & Co, Spiegel or JCPenney also offered their versions in the 1940’s -50’s, all full open button front shirts. We thought of combining the fancy “Double-Panel” pattern with a pull-over type shirt, and the MF® SECOYA was born.
The term Secoya is Bad Hombre parlance for sequoia, a semantic nod to the vintage Sturdy Oak specimen that inspired this MF® pattern.

The “McG” is the third model of our SECOYA.
The original Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” pattern was introduced sometime during Spring 2019, and was initially released in a fine 3 Oz. indigo yarn “NTC” chambray, a fabric familiar to all mfsc OGs as it was the same indigo chambray used for the 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Utility Shirt. That chambray fabric ages quite gracefully.

Well-worn MF® SECOYA Shirt, NCT chambray, 2019.

Inspired by “Big Mac” or “Five Bros” type heavy flannel work shirts, the follow-up model was the SECOYA “Winter King”, 8.25 Oz. indigo x red woven plaid, released during FW2020.

For FW2021, we pulled the fabric inspiration off a vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt from our archives. If we wanted to closely replicate the unusual turquoise & red yarns combo of the original plaid pattern, we decided to replace the wool yarns by 100% cotton yarns. Our friends at Toyo Enterprises painstakingly milled this outstanding selvedge heavy flannel woven plaid for us in Japan. The SECOYA “McG” was born.

The “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, “McG” heavy flannel edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Vintage-inspired 100% cotton classic woven plaid heavy flannel, turquoise & red dominant yarns, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirts.
* Pull-over style.
* “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Stitched ventilation Eyelets on underarm and back panels, green thread.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Chin strap.
* Natural poplin facing on front button placket/cuffs/chest pockets.
* White corozo wood “cat-eyes” buttons.
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned pockets.
* Concealed inside chest pocket, featuring the fabric selvedge.
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch construction.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The SECOYA “McG” heavy flannel Work Shirt comes raw/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold rinse/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation or one machine rinse cycle on delicate.
Washing machine spin dry.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)

We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL on the SECOYA heavy flannel. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold rinsed measurements. To reflect “real life” garment conditions, the shrink-tested shirts in the chart have been rinsed in a home washing machine, cold water, full spin cycle on delicate, and then line dried (no heat dryer.)

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

: MF® Dude Rancher indigo covert (Size Small)

: MF® Dude Rancher brown dobby stripe (Size Small)

: Vintage 1940s French “Velour d’Amiens” jacket.

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, indigo-covert plaid & brown dobby stripe FW2021 edition.
mfsc Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

The all-original Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER is our spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. The design features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.

The shirts buttons are painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The DUDE RANCHER pattern has been previously released in black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), 1930s-inspired printed shadow plaid, light indigo vat-dye chambray, “Joan” woven plaid, and “101” selvedge denim.

FW2021 sees the return of the DUDE RANCHER, with two new distinct fabric additions to this list.

First is a rare selvedge 100% cotton woven plaid, combining indigo yarns, covert yarns (a.k.a. salt & pepper), and black yarns, in a sturdy, dry hand, 9 Oz. fabric.
The inspiration for this unusual yarn combo came from the check lining of a vintage 1940s French corduroy coat (in Velour d’Amiens). The lining was just too good not to be replicated as-is, so we had the textile experts at Toyo Enterprises painstakingly mill a selvedge rendition of it in Japan, woven on vintage traditional machinery.

The second option is a 10.25 Oz. dark brown Dobby Stripes brushed fabric, with a soft hand and cosy, wintery feel. The stripe pattern is subtle, and noticeable in the textured Dobby weave rather than from a contrasting color.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “Indigo-Covert” and “Brown Dobby Stripes” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Two options:
a) Indigo-Covert plaid: Dry 100% cotton woven plaid, 9 Oz., combining indigo, covert (salt & pepper), and black yarns. Solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

b) Brown Dobby stripes: Soft hand brushed 100% cotton 10.25 Oz. dark brown Dobby Stripes fabric.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts and 1950s-60s dude ranch outfits.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
Both the “Indigo-Covert” and “Brown Dobby Stripes” DUDE RANCHER come RAW/unwashed. The shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Washing machine spin dry cycle.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)

We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit, sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.