Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64-JC, 14 Oz. indigo-dyed Jungle Cloth, mfsc FW2021. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN LOT.64-JC, indigo-dyed 14 Oz. Jungle Cloth edition.
mfsc FW2021 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Alert the media, the MF® Californian is back, and this time in non-selvedge fabric!
The Lot.64 is our most-popular five-pocket pattern, featuring a straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, and a classic 1960s silhouette.

“Jungle Cloth” is a trade name for heavy warp-faced corded fabric, in which the cords run in the warp (vertical) direction. This all-cotton grosgrain fabric of the corduroy family is high density, rugged, water-repellent and windproof, and has roots in 1920s civilian flight gear. It is commonly associated with US Navy foul weather deck personnel clothing, with the iconic N-1 and its many iterations in Heritage fashion.

Why it was called “Jungle Cloth” remains a mystery to me, and the earliest mention of the fabric I could find is in a 1914 book titled “Hunting in the Arctic and Alaska”, in a chapter listing the author’s personal outfit of choice for a cruise in the Arctic:

Jungle Cloth is described as “Modified Bedford Cords” in a volume of “Standard Commodity Classification” from 1945. Its US production ramped up during WW2 due to large US Government contracts for the US Navy. The Crompton-Shenandoah Plant in Virginia handled a large chunk of the wartime production, having adapted its long-established velveteen-milling machinery to meet the mil-specs Jungle Cloth demand.

Excerpt from US Senate hearings on Trade Agreements, 1955.

This interesting 1955 “Trade Agreements” US Senate official document discusses the struggle of the American fabric milling industry, overwhelmed by cheaper labor competition from Italian and Japanese factories at the time. During the hearings, a Crompton-Shenandoah representative mentions “the average hourly earnings in the cotton textile industry are about $1.35 (in the US) , the Italian textile hourly average wage is 24 cents, the Japanese 13 cents… The best Japanese velveteen, and it is good, is for sale in New York, duty paid, at 21 cents per yard lower than our manufacturing cost…
Fabric milling in the US struggled until the 1980s, and is today a shadow of what it once was, although domestic textile manufacturing has seen a revival in recent years.
It is also quite ironic that in 2021, Japanese and Italian textiles are considered premium and are very costly, and that domestic production in Japan and Italy is now constantly challenged by unbeatable competition from China, Bangladesh, India, South East Asia, Haiti, South Africa… Hard to compete indeed with $95/month wages such as those of Bangladeshi garment workers. Gambatte Nippon!

Our premium Jungle Cloth is milled in Japan and indigo-dyed by Japanese experts to a dark shade of indigo blue. This vintage mil-specs fabric initially developed by Buzz Rickson’s is an old MF® favorite. It has been previously featured on our Riders, N-1Z Deck Pants, M-17 Parka, and Mulholland Master. It ages beautifully and the patina of indigo-dyed Jungle Cloth is quite impressive.
(Note that his fabric is very light-sensitive, so store appropriately to avoid sun fading/fold marks.)

For pocketing, we opted for some older NOS olive green HBT. To keep a low profile, we went for tonal stitching and, due to the Jungle Cloth heavy ounce, chose cotton-wrap poly thread for sturdy construction and seam resistance.

The Californian LOT.64-JC blue jeans “Indigo Jungle Cloth” edition are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
High density 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, the notorious shell fabric of 1940’s US Navy N-1 deck jackets, dyed to a deep and dark indigo shade. (The face is textured by dense vertical cords, and the reverse feels soft and brushed.)
Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional 1950′s-1960’s era blue jeans, original Mister Freedom® classic fit.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Non-selvedge leg outseam, overlock.
* 100% cotton NOS olive green HBT pocketing.
* Tonal MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed black tea-core veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Tonal stitching, classic MF® Californian gauge combo, sturdy black cotton-wrap poly thread.
* Coin pocket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bartack stitching.
* Original MF® metal cast tack buttons combo, ‘oxidized’ silver for fly, brass for waist.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (Army green).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The CALIFORNIAN Lot.64-JC comes UN-WASHED. These jeans are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry. (Do not use heat dryer)

I went with a W31, for a snug top block and straight leg silhouette. I am about 5’7, 150 lbs. This fabric hardly stretches but softens with wear, and is very comfortable.

Disclaimer: Color crocking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments worn as under layers. Indigo rub-off should wash-off eventually. However, expect blue legs for a while.
Also, this fabric is very light-sensitive, so store appropriately to avoid sun fading/fold marks.

CARE:
Wash sporadically, only when needed. Spot clean with a damp rag to remove dirt/mud rather than wash.
When full cleaning is required, turn pants inside out to limit fabric marbling, set machine to DELICATE and wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics.
Heavy indigo crocking is to be expected for a while, so wash separately from all other garments. Indigo blue marks on the washing machine walls can be removed with a damp rag soaked in laundry detergent.

Do not use a heat dryer, hang dry instead.

Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2021 PODIUM Collection & SPORTSMAN-SURPLUS LookBook Preview

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2021 mfsc “PODIUM”

MF® “CONTENDER” Hoodie FW2021 mfsc PODIUM ©2021

MF® “GYMSTAR” Sweatpants FW2021 mfsc PODIUM ©2021

MF® “MEDALIST” Crew Sweat FW2021 mfsc PODIUM ©2021

MF® “MERCURY” Jacket FW2021 mfsc PODIUM ©2021

MF® “PODIUM” Jacket FW2021 mfsc PODIUM ©2021

MF® “TACKLE KING” Jacket FW2021 mfsc PODIUM ©2021

MF® “TRACK MASTER” Jacket & Pants FW2021 mfsc PODIUM ©2021

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2021 mfsc “PODIUM”

Dear Friends,

Hope this finds you well, healthy, and in good spirits.

This is a preview of the FW2021 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) collaboration. Two groupings, a theme-based capsule collection titled “PODIUM“, followed by additions to our classic SPORTSMAN and SURPLUS catalogs.

Our winter “PODIUM” concept is inspired by vintage athletic wear from the 1940s to 1980s, mixing vintage hi-tech sporting gear, traditional Track & Field uniforms and classic gym clothes. This is a MF® twist on athleisure wear, as well as a nod to active and healthy lifestyle.
The following eight original “PODIUM” garment designs blend timeless references and “heritage” fabrics, resulting in a colorful grouping of practical, versatile, unpretentious pieces for working out, or just hanging out. These styles will easily incorporate into any classic wardrobe.

This FW2021 “PODIUM” mfsc collection is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
The above “PODIUM” line-up consists of:

1) The MEDALIST (Crew Sweatshirt)
* 100% cotton tubular brushed fleece.
* Tubular needle-out rib gussets and trims.
* Flat-lock stitch construction.
* Rear panel phone pocket.
* Color options: Heather Grey/White/UCLA Blue/Red/Gold/Olive Green. 

2) The CONTENDER (Hoodie Zip Sweatshirt)
* 100% cotton brushed fleece.
* Needle-out rib waistband & cuffs.
* “Attached” hood pattern, jersey-lined.
* Two-tone Heather Grey/Navy Blue.

3) The GYMSTAR (Sweatpants)
* 100% cotton heather grey fleece, horizontal weave.
* Cargo phone pocket.
* Needle-out rib expansion gusset.
* Flat-lock stitch construction.
* Elastic cinch bottom.

4) The TRACK MASTER Jacket (Tracksuit Jacket)
* 100% cotton brushed fleece, horizontal weave.
* Ribbed all cotton jersey waistband/collar/cuffs.
* Two stripe arm strech gussets.
* Body expansion side panels, tonal cotton jersey.
* 1970s style plastic zipper with contrast cotton tape.
* Color options: UCLA Blue/Gold and Black/Gold

5) The TRACK MASTER Pants (Tracksuit Pants)
* 100% cotton brushed fleece, horizontal weave.
* Two stripe leg stretch gussets.
* Side slash pockets and rear zip pocket.
* Zip cinch bottom.
* 1970s style plastic zipper with contrast cotton tape.
* Color options: UCLA Blue/Gold and Black/Gold

6) The PODIUM Jacket (Satin Team Jacket)
* Cotton/rayon body, satin side out.
* Printed cotton flannel lining.
* Heather striped soft Merino wool rib knits.
* Raglan sleeve stripe with piping.
* Color options: Red/White and Royal Blue/Gold 

7) The TACKLE KING (Nylon Coach Jacket)
* Heavy 2×1 Nylon Twill, vintage Mil-Specs.
* 100% cotton Heather Grey fleece lining, French terry side out.
* MF® branded painted brass snaps.
* Chin strap.
* Original “MF 71-61” traditional sport tackle twill patches.
* Color options: Black/Navy/Sage Green/Red

8) The MERCURY Jacket (Windbreaker Running Jacket)
* All weather VENTILE® cotton fabric.
* Athletic mesh  rear vent panel.
* 1970s style plastic zipper with contrast cotton tape.
* Color options: Arctic White/Navy Blue and Olive Green/Navy Blue.

Besides these “PODIUM” classics, we are adding a few heavy hitters to our existing MF® mfsc SPORTSTMAN (made in USA) and SURPLUS (made in JAPAN) catalogs.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2021 mfsc SPORTSMAN & SURPLUS Catalogs

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2021 mfsc SPORTSMAN & SURPLUS Catalogs

Mister Freedom® “DESPERADO” Western Ranch Coat, 13 Oz. SC Black Denim ©2021

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN “OUTLAW” LOT.64-OTL, 13 Oz. SC Black Denim ©2021

 

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE, 13 Oz. SC Black Denim ©2021

Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” Shirt, McG Plaid Heavy Flannel, ©2021

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” Shirt, Brown Brushed Dobby Stripe, ©2021

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” Shirt, Indigo x Covert Check, ©2021

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” LOT.64-JC, Indigo Jungle Cloth, ©2021

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE “RINGO” Shirt, Black Tea-Core Veg-Tan Leather, ©2021

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE “RANDALL” Shirt, Natural Veg-Tan Leather, ©2021

Mister Freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, NOS Dobby Stripes, ©2021

Mister Freedom® CONTINENTAL Two-Pieces Suit “Le MARSEILLAIS”, NOS Stripe HBT, ©2021

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2021 mfsc SPORTSMAN & SURPLUS Catalogs

The above FW2021 SPORTSMAN & SURPLUS line-up consists of:

1) The “DESPERADO” (Western Ranch Coat)
* Original 13 Oz SC Black sulfur-dyed denim, selvedge.
* Corduroy western yoke trims.
* MF® branded silver tack buttons.
* Made in USA

2) CALIFORNIAN “OUTLAW” model LOT.64-OTL
* Traditional MF® Californian Lot.64 pattern with modified western “frogmouth” front pockets.
* Original 13 Oz SC Black sulfur-dyed denim, selvedge.
* Tonal stitching.
* Made in USA

3) RANCH BLOUSE Black Denim
* Original 13 Oz SC Black sulfur-dyed denim, selvedge.
* Tonal stitching.
* Made in USA

4) CALIFORNIAN LOT.64-JC Indigo Jungle Cloth
* 14 Oz. Mil-Specs Jungle Cloth, dark indigo.
* Tonal stitching.
* Made in USA

5) RANCH BLOUSE “RINGO”, Black Leather
* Black veg-tan tea-core leather interpretation of our classic Ranch Blouse.
* MF® branded brass snaps.
* Made in USA

6) RANCH BLOUSE “RANDALL”, Natural Leather.
* Natural veg-tan leather interpretation of our classic Ranch Blouse.
* MF® branded brass snaps.
* Only available raw.
* Made in USA

7) “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, Dobby Stripes
* Our classic dress shirt pattern.
* Fancy New Old Stock fabric, Dobby stripes.
* Made in USA

8) CONTINENTAL Two-Piece Suit “LE MARSEILLAIS”
* Our classic Sportsman Sportcoat & Trousers patterns.
* Fancy New Old Stock fabric, 40s-style brown stripe HBT.
* Made in USA

9) DUDE RANCHER (Western Shirt)
* Our classic original western snap shirt pattern.
* Fabric options: 9 Oz. Indigo x Covert check and 10.25 Oz. Brown Brushed Dobby Stripes.
* Made in JAPAN.

10) SECOYA Shirt
* Our original 1930s style pull-over work shirt pattern.
* Original “McG” woven plaid 100% cotton heavy flannel.

Voila!

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is Mister Freedom®’s on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion.

Thank you very much for your renewed support.

Love from Sunny California,

c

🌞✌🏼👴🏼🌴