Mister Freedom® “Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) CHINOS, 12 Oz. “Okinawa” denim, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® “NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” (NCT) CHINOS, 12Oz “301 Okinawa” SC denim.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” catalog.
Made in JAPAN.

This pattern was part of the original line-up of the small grouping that somewhat managed to put us on the fashion map sometime in 2008, i.e. the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) capsule collection.
For the nostalgics, we still unearth remnants from our ship’s stowage occasionally, a misplaced stack here, mislabeled box there, and we update inventory with New Old Stock (NOS).
A reissue of the original chino twill model was released for our 2016 mfsc ten-year anniversary, and we have issued several iterations of that pattern through the years.

Our NCT Chinos are inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, a pattern plausibly revisited by a Naval Base tailor at some point, featuring a mix of period Mil-Specs and fancy civvy custom tailoring. The cut is fairly representative of our early days, featuring a slimmer leg and lower rise than military originals. We were at the time morphing the high-waisted and baggy cuts of 1930s-40s utilitarian designs with European tailored silhouettes. Most of our bottoms today feature a higher rise than our NCT Chinos.

For Fall 2020, we are introducing a denim model of the NCT Chinos pattern, cut from an old mfsc favorite, a 12Oz. “301 Okinawa” selvedge denim exclusively developed and trademarked by Sugar Cane Co in Japan. That special Left Hand Twill (LHT) denim has been milled in several fabric weights by SC through the years, but consistently consists of a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. The sugar cane fibers, a by-product of the sugar cane industry, are responsible for the slubby and “hairy” quality of the twill, and, full disclaimer, we have heard stories about customers plucking out prickly fibers in the weave with tweezers!

One of the more desirable characteristics of this premium denim is the combination of both a dark indigo warp and rapid fading ability. MF® OG denimheads will attest to the rewarding patina potential of the Okinawa denim family.

The pocket bags are cut from an old mfsc classic fabric, a fancy striped ticking twill inspired by antique French textiles. For a subdued demeanor, we kept the stitching tonal and opted for black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons for the fly and waistband.
The decorative arcuate stitch on the slash and welt pocket openings is a detail borrowed from early European tailoring. The leg construction uses flat-felled seams and the Okinawa selvedge is displayed in each pocket facing.

The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos “Okinawa” denim edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co in Japan.

FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.

SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers, custom-made military garments and early European tailoring.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Designed in USA.
* Made in JAPAN.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos in “Okinawa” denim come RAW/unwashed. The garment is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. The denim will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
  • Washing machine spin dry.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I hemmed my pair to my preferred length with a traditional 1¾ fold. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

CARE:
Wash when necessary, using appropriate methods pertaining to premium denim.
We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, as the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Available RAW (unwashed)

Waist 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “PRIVATEER” Rollneck Sweater, Indigo and Ecru Cotton Rib Knit, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

 

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® “PRIVATEER” Rollneck Sweater, Indigo and Ecru Cotton Rib Knit.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus”.
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® PRIVATEER Rollneck is inspired by an older crew neck casual cotton sweater from our archives, to which we mounted a classic high rolled collar, turtleneck or rollneck, giving the resulting hybrid its nautical vibe.

Vintage prototype of the MF® PRIVATEER (rollneck is Photoshopped in) with pattern edits ©2020

We kept the textured 1×1 “fisherman” rib knit of the original, along with the raglan sleeve construction, but extended the seamless cuffs and bottom webbing for an older sweater vibe. The overall proportions were tweaked for a shorter vintage silhouette that pairs well with high-waisted pants.

We opted for 100% cotton knit, a more SoCal-friendly and less allergy-inducing option than traditional rollneck wool sweaters. Our PRIVATEER is definitely not intended as a contender to a wool submariner’s jumper in the warmth department, but is rather devised as a casual mid-season piece for temperate climates, leading to extra playtime disguised as Captain Haddock in Sunny California.

The original sample that inspired our PRIVATEER was pure white and we chose to hand-dye it indigo during R&D. We liked the results, so for production, we settled on two color options: a specific warm tone of ecru matched from an old vintage Aran sweater, and the medium indigo blue shade matched from our back-yard dyed prototype.

The MF® PRIVATEER is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
100% cotton 1×1 rib knit, “fisherman” rib pattern or “Brioche” stitch type.
Two color options:
1) “Aran” ecru.
2) Indigo blue.

SPECS:
* An original hybrid mfsc pattern, inspired by casual sweaters and vintage nautical jumpers.
* Single fold ribbed rollneck.
* “Fisherman” rib knit stitch body.
* 100% cotton knit.
* Raglan sleeve pattern with contrast rib pattern mounting.
* Large seamless ribbed waistband.
* Foldable extended and seamless ribbed cuffs.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in JAPAN.

SIZING/FIT:
The PRIVATEER Rollneck, in both ecru and indigo, comes pre-shrunk and is ready-to-wear as-is. No soaking required.
This garment is considered true-to-size. I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit.

The specific “Fisherman” rib allows horizontal (crosswise) stretch, with good natural recovery (= the knit’s ability to return to its initial size after being stretched.)
Therefore, measurements can be misleading, as with all stretchy knit garments.
We do recommend sticking to your usual MF® size with the  PRIVATEER Rollneck. If you are a Medium in mfsc shirting, you are more-likely a Medium in this sweater, regardless of our chart measurements. The arms might feel a bit snug and first, and pulling your head though the neck might feel a bit tight, but the sweater will settle naturally after a few minutes of wear.
I am wearing a chambray Snipes shirt underneath a Medium PRIVATEER in the fit photos, and am 5’7 approx 150Lbs.

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

CARE:
Turn sweater inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Air dry flat on a clean towel, or hang dry on a well-padded hanger to avoid shoulder stretching.
Light fuzzing or piling may occur temporarily and will subside.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available PRE-SHUNK
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP, Snapback, Five-Panel “Malibu” denim & Six-Panel NOS Cone denim. Union made in USA.

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® MAVERICK Jacket ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP ©2020

Mister Freedom® FEED CAP, Snapback.
Five-panel model, Malibu denim edition
&
Six-Panel model, NOS Cone denim edition.
Union made in USA.

We are adding another goodie to our all made-in-USA Sportsman Catalog for FW2020, a Mister Freedom® spin on an American classic, the ubiquitous “Trucker Hat”.

This five or six panel style became popular in the early 1970s, having replaced the peaked cap predecessors sported by Union teamsters. See this excellent photographic record of 1930s-40s truck drivers documented by the FSA (Farm Security Administration) at the time. The flick “They Drive By Night” (1940) is worth a viewing, if only for Bogey and his peers’ wildcatter fashion.

Forwarding some 30 years later, the updated 1970s trucker hats were one-size-fits-all and bordered on marketing genius. They were much cheaper to manufacture than the more substantial military-style “mechanic’s cap”, and could easily be mass-produced. Branded with a printed logo or patch, they proved to be excellent advertising media for corporate brands. Most were initially distributed as free promotional merchandise in truck stops and rural feed stores. Trucker hats, initially a marker of “working class anti-fashion”, soon permeated American pop culture and became a staple of hipster fashion.

Early models of 1970s trucker hats are the inspiration for our MF® FEED CAP.

First we sourced a reliable USA manufacturer for the project, a Union-operated company willing to deal with our antics and demanding specifics. We started developing two distinct models. The tricky part was to suggest that we would supply our own fabrics, and they came in narrow 32″ looms… We are grateful for the patience these guys showed!

The first option of our MF® FEED CAP is a five panel pattern, in classic 1970s “trucker hat” fashion, an obvious choice to match our FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP story. It features the typical trucker high crown, partial mesh sides, and adjustable plastic snapback. We are releasing it in “Malibu” denim, a 13 Oz. medium indigo selvedge twill, an old mfsc favorite, same fabric as the FW2020 Malibu Maverick Jacket. Some of the photos featuring a well-worn on 2016 Malibu Cowboy Jacket show the denim fading potential, with low contrast but beautiful hues of indigoes.
We played with thread, eyelets, and mesh colors for a 1970s denim brand promo cap vibe.

The second model of MF® FEED CAP is a six panel pattern, with a lower profile, closer to a baseball cap, classic US Navy ship hat or “dad’s hat” vibe. It is full denim, and will compliment your Texas tuxedo nicely. That fabric is quite special for us, as it is from a leftover roll of the NOS Cone Mills 12 Oz. selvedge denim twill we cut our original 2010 Californian Lot.54 from.
This beautiful non-sanforized indigo denim twill had been exclusively developed by Cone for Levi’s® for their vintage line years ago, and we were lucky to score some NOS overstock yardage around 2009. The denim proved to fade beautifully over the years, as well-worn pairs of old Californian Lot.54 attest.
We also opted for contrast stitching for this model, with an orange color thread reminiscent of 1960s-70s vintage promo denim products.

Both models feature our classic mfsc “Sportsman” woven label on the rear panel, and the crown is left blank. You can add your personal touch with a patch, buttons or pins.

The Mister Freedom® FEED CAPS five & six panel edition are designed in California and manufactured in USA in a Union-operated facility.

SPECS:

FABRIC OPTIONS:
1) Five Panel Model: Combination denim & orange mesh.
Medium indigo 13 Oz. “MALIBU” denim twill, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
2) Six Panel Model: Full denim.
NOS Cone Mills 12 Oz. denim twill, white/pink line selvedge ID, milled in USA.

SPECS:
Five-Panel “Malibu” Model:
* An original Mister Freedom® design inspired by vintage 1970s “trucker” hats and other classic promotional headwear.
* Classic five-panel pattern.
* Structured high crown, “Feed Cap” style classic tall profile.
* Partial mesh side panels.
* Adjustable snapback, one size fits all.
* Contrast stitching.
* Mfsc woven label on rear panel.
* Union-made in USA.

Six-Panel “NOS Cone” Model:
* An original Mister Freedom® design inspired by vintage 1970s “trucker” hats, baseball caps, US Navy ship caps and other classic promotional headwear.
* Classic six-panel pattern.
* Structured mid crown, “Baseball cap” style classic lower profile.
* Adjustable snapback, one size fits all.
* Contrast stitching.
* Mfsc woven label on rear panel.
* Union-made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:

The MF® FEED CAPS are cut from rigid denim, but are ready to wear as-is, no pre-soak needed. The stiffness of loomstate denim is normal, and is due to the starch in the fibers. The stiffness will subside overtime with normal wear.
Both models have their own profile and fit, but are one-size-fits-all. The adjustable snapback rear plastic tab will allow most user to set the headband circumference to a comfortable fit.

CARE:
Spot cleaning only, using a damp cloth to wipe the inner headband when necessary. Minimal detergent, thoroughly rinsing the cloth during final cleaning stages.
Immersing the FEED CAP in cold water and carefully hand-rubbing as a final rinse is OK, but do not throw in the washing machine in either regular or delicate wash cycle, as this will most-likely ruin the cap. Do not wring the cap either.
Look-up “baseball cap hat form” or “cap washer” if you can’t resist the urge of using a washing machine. Again, if the goal is to hasten patina, this is not a good idea. Just like with all denim garments and gear, extended wear is the only way to generate natural patina.

Available RAW (unwashed)
One -Size-Fits-ALL.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, indigo-red “Winter King” Heavy Flannel Edition, FW2020 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, heavy flannel ©2020

Shop this smashing look at www.misterfreedom.com

Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, selvedge “Winter King” heavy flannel edition.
FW2020 mfsc Surplus Collection.
Made in Japan.

The original Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” pattern was introduced sometime during Spring 2019, and initially released in a fine 3 Oz. indigo yarn “NTC” chambray, a fabric familiar to all mfsc OGs as it was the same indigo chambray used for the 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Utility Shirt.

The SECOYA pattern combines two vintage garments, a rare 1930’s pull-over chin-strap work chambray with no label, and a 1940’s STURDY OAK work chambray with elaborate “Double-Panel” construction.
The defunct STURDY OAK label, the workwear division of Sears, Roebuck & Co, produced its famous “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern, often complimented with “Ventilation Eyelets”. Other bygone mail-order catalog companies such as Montgomery Ward & Co, Spiegel or JCPenney also offered their versions in the 1940’s -50’s, all full open button front shirts. We thought of combining the fancy “Double-Panel” pattern with a pull-over type shirt, and the MF® SECOYA was born.

The term Secoya is Bad Hombre parlance for sequoia, a semantic nod to the vintage Sturdy Oak specimen that inspired this MF® pattern.

For FW2020, we decided to introduce a plaid version of the SECOYA. We pulled an old vintage “Winter King” heavy flannel shirt from our archives for inspiration, as it featured a beautiful classic woven plaid of red dominant and genuine indigo yarns. Our friends at Toyo Enterprises milled a phenomenal selvedged interpretation in Japan, in a hefty 8.25 Oz. weight.
The resulting plaid is indeed quite smashing, with the unusual use of indigo yarn adding a new dimension to a classic heavy flannel type fabric of the “Big Mac” or “Five Bros” family.
Our colorful SECOYA is complemented by indigo poplin accents on the button placket and cuffs facing, that will all contribute to the shirt aging gracefully with normal wash and wear. The green ventilation stitched eyelets and white corozo wood cat-eyes buttons add a 1940s-1950s workwear touch.

The “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, “Winter King” heavy flannel edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Vintage-inspired 100% cotton classic woven plaid, 8.25 Oz., red dominant with genuine indigo yarns, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirts.
* Pull-over style.
* “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Stitched ventilation Eyelets on underarm and back panels, green thread.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Chin strap.
* Indigo poplin facing on front button placket/cuffs/chest pockets.
* White corozo wood “cat-eyes” buttons.
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned pockets.
* Concealed inside chest pocket
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch construction.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The SECOYA “Winter King” heavy flannel Work Shirt comes raw/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold rinse/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation or one machine rinse cycle on delicate.
  • Washing machine spin dry.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL on the SECOYA heavy flannel. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold rinsed measurements. To reflect “real life” garment conditions, the shrink-tested shirts in the chart have been rinsed in a home washing machine, cold water, full spin cycle on delicate, and then line dried (no heat dryer.)

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “SNIPES” Shirt, Buzz Rickson’s USN Indigo Chambray, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, raw ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, rinsed ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Fabric evo: Mister Freedom® unworn “SNIPES Shirt” (2020) and well-worn “PATROL Shirt” (2014), featuring a completely different pattern, but cut from the same “BR” indigo chambray.

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom “SNIPES” Shirt, “BR” indigo blue 5 Oz. selvedge chambray.
FW 2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” Collection.
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® SNIPES is inspired by the earliest model of US Gov-issued full button front uniform shirt.

Identified as Specs “No. 8-26C Shirt, Flannel, Olive-Drab, Coat Style” by the Quartermaster Corps, it was introduced sometime in 1933 and issued to US Army and Air Corps personnel and FDR’s CCC enrollees alike. This new uniform shirt pattern was deemed “Coat Style”, marking a practical departure from its predecessor, the mustard color pullover wool shirt commonly associated with WW1 Doughboys. The overall design was borrowed from civilian workwear, back when utilitarian garment-making skills bordered on fancy tailoring prowess. This is definitely an intricate pattern by today’s workwear clothing standards.

Besides the full six-button front placket improvement, the characteristics of the early 8-26C shirt included a one-piece unstructured collar (no collar band), a singular style of elbow reinforcement patch, and two large functional chest pockets, each with a pen compartment.

The Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt retains all of that military design DNA, but we opted for an indigo blue chambray fabric treatment instead of the original US Army OD wool blend release. The slubby indigo chambray is complimented by the olive green contrast stitching and button facing poplin placket, with a touch of red on the side bartacks.

That premium selvedge chambray fabric is a favorite of ours. Developed by Buzz Rickson’s for their vintage US Navy utility shirts repros, it has become a staple of the mfsc shirting catalog for some time. See the Continental, Tonkinoise and Patrol Shirt, all released in that exact same fabric. Some of the product photos above feature a well-worn BR chambray Patrol Shirt from 2014, for fabric evo ref.

Blending 1930s US Army uniform shirt design with 1940-50s US Navy period mil-specs fabric, this original MF® shirt needed a new moniker. Because of the strong vintage naval utility chambray work shirt vibe, we went for SNIPES. The term refers to US Navy enlisted personnel working in the engine room, the “sailors that sail below”, also known as “Black Gang” for their grease-covered blues and dixie cup covers. See Machinist’s Mate Jake Holman’s dungarees for a Hollywood rendition.

The MF® SNIPES Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC: Period mil-specs USN “Buzz Rickson’s” indigo blue chambray, slubby 5 Oz. fabric, white with blue line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by a vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform classic.
* Full 6 button front opening.
* Rounded tails.
* Olive corozzo wood buttons.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets with pen compartments.
* Unstructured one-piece collar.
* Elbow reinforcement patches.
* Olive poplin button placket facing.
* Chainstitch construction with narrow folder.
* All cotton olive color contrast stitching.
* Red bartack in lieu of side gussets.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The BR chambray SNIPES Shirt comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I personally opted for a MEDIUM for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs., and although the SMALL did fit with more of a trim uniform silhouette, it was a bit too tight in the chest.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020