Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green, FW2019 mfsc Sportsman Catalog, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

Some of the readers might be familiar with our SPEEDWAYS pattern. Originally released in cream and black cotton piqué under the “Speedway Piqué Jeans” moniker during Fall 2011, a modified version (sans buckle-back and with a slightly more tapered leg) made it to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog in 2015, as the Malibu’s, offered in light indigo ‘sea denim’ and wheat color ‘sand denim’.
The SPEEDWAYS made a come back in black in 2017, flashing a fancy NOS matte finish coated denim.
Our MF® tribute to late 50’s/early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2019, this time with a New Old Stock corduroy fabric, in a vintage moss green color. This is the original color of the fabric as we found it, and it has a definite sixties vibe.

The combination of slim leg, extended waistband tab with concealed snaps, and belt loops substituted by adjustable side tabs, seem to have been a 1960’s staple of California Cool, and a wardrobe favorite for iconic actors such as McQueen (see the familiar William Claxton early 1960’s Palm Spring photo sessions.) An early corduroy version of this pant style, albeit with a wider leg , can be seen in the steamy “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” (1958), fashionably sported by another voguish man, Hollywood and racetrack legend Paul Newman.

If you are after non-five pocket casual jeans with a vintage slim leg, and appreciate the streamlined waistband look without belt loops, the SPEEDWAYS could be the ticket. They are among my favorite go-to trousers pattern of the MF® mfsc catalog, and I rarely travel without throwing a pair in my suitcase.

The mfsc SPEEDWAYS Cords are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock 100% cotton corduroy, mid-wale, sixties-vibe moss green color.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers.
* Waistband snap tab à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps.
* Streamlined waistband sans belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: fancy woven dobby stripes.
* Discreet denim-like ‘selvedge’ tape tab on waistband.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Woven rayon MF® mfsc “Sportsman” label on inside waistband.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The SPEEDWAYS CORDS come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine, cold soak for about 30~40mn, spin dry, hang dry.
These are true to size, with a somewhat generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches), and will settle to the tagged size following the above process.

I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc pants, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. According to waistline fluctuations, I cinch one or both side tabs, which keeps the pants up.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch, an easy operation for your local alteration place. As a matter of personal preference with this Speedways pattern, I opted for the sixties-vibe “flood” look with no trousers break. To each his own, but we do not recommend cuffing these with jeans rolls.
When deciding which length works for you before alteration, especially if you are planning to heat-dry these in the future, consider the potential extra shrinkage of the leg seams (due to the 100% cotton thread caballo stitching) which will bunch the fabric and pull-up the inseam noticeably.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.

CARE:
Launder when necessary. These are low maintenance but should be turned inside-out to avoid potential fabric marbling.
Wash in cold water, gentle cycle, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Waist 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38.

Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

 

 

 

Mister Freedom® “TRAILBLAZER”, Brushed Cotton Sateen, mfsc FW2019 Surplus catalog. Made in Japan.

 

Mister Freedom® TRAILBLAZER, Brushed Cotton Sateen.
mfsc FW2019 Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

Do you know what a camel is?
Someone once said that a camel is a horse designed by a Board of Experts…

Well, our TRAILBLAZER is one of those hybrid species from Weirdsville, courtesy of the MF® Design Department. Working on FW2019 last year, the initial intention of our in-house Board of Experts – joined that day by Mr. Tom Tanaka, friend, skilled surfer and head of the International Dept. of Toyo Enterprise – was to release a winter version of the SECOYA Shirt, merely updating the light ounce chambray to a heftier fabric option. So much for that easy-breezy plan…
Ideas started flowing, such as making the shirt full button-up front (not pull-over), and using metal grommets instead of stitched eyelets for ventilation.
I had quickly dismissed a suggestion by Tina from Bazar a few weeks prior to that FW2019 meeting, pointing out to the practicality of “a shirt with added slash pockets”, just because her pitch had started with “you know what you should do?” That idea popped back up on the drafting table during the design meeting. A few cups of brain juice later and we had a few rough sketches for the “kangaroo” pockets and front button placket, which materialized later into the mfsc TRAILBLAZER courtesy of Sensei Fukutomi San, pattern maestro of Toyo Enterprise.

We had been contemplating for a while using Brushed Cotton Sateen for an mfsc project, a popular textile for casual sportswear in the 1960’s-70’s, and a big hit in Europe at the time. The leisure suit collector and vintage fashion gourmet will relate to funky-fresh Lee® trucker jackets with matching bottoms, and to the plethora of off-brand flare jeans and shirt-jaks cut from that glorious textile, in a wild palette of pastel or bold colors. This fabric would be a perfect fit for our trailblazing cameloid.

The FW2019 TRAILBLAZER fabric is a weft-faced brushed sateen, a tightly woven twill with a characteristic soft brushed satin weave face and a plain weave reverse. We opted for two complimenting colors, Prussian blue and rust, lifted from two vintage garments from the MF® vintage archives.

If the rest of the specifics of the Secoya Shirt are still there – double-shoulder yoke, selvedge gussets, chin strap, and combo of assorted colorful tin-pressed buttons – the mfsc TRAILBLAZER is in a league of its own. With the four front pockets contrasting with the rounded shirttail panels typical of vintage tuck-in style shirting, the garment had morphed into an overshirt/jacket.
Blending 1930’s details and 1970’s fabrics, the vibe of our TRAILBLAZER is somewhat reminiscent of early California rock climbing and mountaineering (see The Stone Masters, “Valley Uprising” documentary, etc…), rather than the initial Dust Bowl workwear vibe of its Secoya predecessor.

The MF® TRAILBLAZER is designed in California by the Mister Freedom® Board of Experts and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100 % cotton sturdy weft-faced brushed sateen, selvedge. Milled in Japan.
Two color options: Prussian blue and Rust.
Facing: 100% cotton Buzz Rickson’s USN-type indigo chambray, selvedge.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc design, blending vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirt patterns, 1970’s fashionable fabrics, early California rock climbing low-tech vibes, in a contemporary approach.
* Full button-up front.
* Two bottom slash pockets with original “brain-juice special” pocket bag construction.
* Vintage “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Ventilation metal eyelet grommets on underarm and back panels.
* Rounded shirttails with selvedge side gussets.
* 1930’s style chin-strap.
* Front button-up plackets/cuff slits/chest pockets featuring indigo chambray facing accents.
* Combination of 1940’s style tin-pressed metal painted buttons, contrasting colors and models. (Note that the paint chips off easily, as it did on vintage buttons.)
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned down.
* Blue chambray concealed chest pocket, displaying fabric selvedge.
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch overall construction, no open/overlocked seams.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® TRAILBLAZER comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

This shirt is a non tuck-in type, and is considered more like an over-shirt or shirt-jacket. I wear a comfortable Medium in the TRAILBLAZER, my usual size in mfsc shirts, with enough room to layer.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CHART

Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. We recommend turning garments inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric during laundering.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)

Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.64md, 16 Oz. Midnight Denim edition, mfsc FW2019, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.64MD, 16 Oz. selvedge “Midnight Denim”.
FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We are excited to release this anticipated combo for FW2019, our staple Californian Lot.64 and Ranch Blouse patterns in a smashing 16 Oz. “Midnight Denim” (MD)!
This original mfsc fabric was previously featured on the 2015 MF® Caban Peacoat, and we couldn’t wait to get a fresh new batch milled again for this 2019 project. The dark indigo warp and black weft give this twill an almost solid black appearance, enhanced by deep blue undertones and by the prospect of a very attractive indigo patina developing overtime.

Our classic Ranch Blouse (drafted sometime back in 2010) and Californian Lot.64 pattern are consistent with previous iterations available here, so I will spare the reader the usual lengthy introduction. Whether going for the full matching top/bottom ‘Man-in-Black’ look, or pairing either piece with traditional blue denim, this “Midnight” combo is versatile and classic enough to keep you on the cool side of the street for some time.

The “Midnight” Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.64MD (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS
Fabric:
16 Oz. “Midnight” Denim, dark indigo warp x black weft, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Pocketing/facing: NOS 10.5 Oz. crosshatch “PLAYER” denim twill, light indigo moss blue-green color, cotton-linen blend, EU origin.

“Midnight” RANCH BLOUSE:
DETAILS:
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Single pocket flap.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* NOS moss blue denim twill facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Brass cast MF® branded tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked hardware with backing leather washer.
* Subtly contrasting two-tone stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear waist band.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING FIT:
The “Midnight” Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this “Midnight” edition, a cold-soaked 38. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large

 

“Midnight” CALIFORNIAN Lot.64MD:
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS moss blue denim twill pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket.
* Subtly contrasting two-tone stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper black “MD” pocket flasher.
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The “Midnight” Californian LOT.64MD blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 with this model (I am usually a W32 in MF® Californians), for a comfortable fit with a snug top block and straight leg silhouette.
As with all denim twills, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.

Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

DENIM CARE:
The specific “Midnight” denim features dark indigo warp (the color visible on face of the fabric) combined with a black weft (visible on the reverse.) As with all indigo-dyed denim, croaking (bleeding) is to be expected. The indigo color will rub on light color garments and furniture. The black will not rub.

Wash denim jeans and jackets when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® MATTOCK Jacket, Camel Brown 14 Oz. Corduroy, FW2019 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® “MATTOCK” Jacket, 14 Oz. corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Surplus catalog.

Made in Japan.

The MF® MATTOCK jacket got its moniker from the classic vintage mackinaw coat that inspired our original design. The inspirational piece, an old 1940’s wool plaid jacket, bore two labels. One barely-readable, featuring what looks like the familiar white sheep trademark of its maker, WOOLRICH®, and one sewn-on by the original owner, a certain Ray Mattock.

Our ‘interpretation’ ended-up having very little in common with the vintage red/black buffalo plaid garment, so we just kept half the name.

For those inclined, what follows are the usual ramblings about the design process, and how we turned a classic piece of Americana into a jambalaya of Old and New World à la MF®.

The Mattock features details inspired by early American and French workwear/outdoor jackets, blended into a classic mfsc vintage “might have been.” On that note, should our Mattock pop-up in the collection of an inspired contemporary fashion label next season, as “designers” sometimes assume we simply lift patterns verbatim from vintage garment, we would of feel nothing short of tremendously flattered.

The shell fabric we opted for is reminiscent of vintage “Velour d’Amiens”, a type of heavy wide-wale cotton corduroy that the connoisseur of old 1930’s~40’s French outdoor/work/hunting garments will be familiar with.
Sadly, the grade of high-quality sturdy corduroy that originated in Amiens, France, sometime in the 18th Century, is no longer being manufactured. Cosserat, a textile mill founded around 1793 and one of the last
velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. After several restructuring attempts, and with low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up. Another collateral damage of the average consumers’ addiction to a plethora of cheap disposable garments rather than a curated and durable wardrobe.

For this project, our friends at Toyo Enterprise sourced a cord fabric that is somewhat reminiscent in texture of traditional Amiens workwear corduroy. We opted for a rich camel brown color, expertly matched by a Japanese dyehouse to the specific shade of brown of a 1930’s vintage French hunting coat from our archives.

The French vibe was then “americanized” by lining our jacket with a striped “Troy” blanket, sometimes referred to as “Alaska” blanket.

The choice of removable “shank” (or “ring”) buttons, is a nod to the original mfsc front closure of our McKarsten jacket. Instead of stitched eyelets, we went for metal grommets, a feature that I have personally never seen on vintage jackets but probably already exists.

We worked out a chin strap in the top closure, played with facing and lining on the collar, threw in some attractive patina-prone leather trim accents, and spiced-up the jambalaya with mismatched pocket lining. We used Sugar Cane Co vintage replica woven plaids, left-over yardage from recent heavy cotton flannel Toyo production. This concealed feature is sometimes seen on vintage pieces, when linings and pocketing could be cut from whatever surplus fabric was on hand, to save on production costs and delays.

Time to end this novel by mentioning that the upside-down neck labeling featured on above product photos was the funny blooper of an early prototype. Production differs, unless you get lucky and score a rare and collectible UFO that eluded QC.

The MF® Mattock Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by 1930’s~1940’s mackinaw jackets and vintage outdoor coats, blending New World and Old World flavors.

FABRIC
Shell: 14 Oz. Heavy wide-wale corduroy, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Woven in Japan.

DETAILS:

  • All original mfsc pattern.
  • Full “Troy” recycled wool blend blanket lining.
  • Leather trim accents on pockets and cuffs.
  • Four pocket front, hand warmer and flap slash pockets combo.
  • Pocket linings cut from mismatched vintage-style cotton woven plaid heavy flannel.
  • Original mfsc removable painted brass “shank” buttons.
  • Rear cinch tabs.
  • Chin strap.
  • Original mfsc “Surplus” rayon woven label.
  • Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® MATTOCK Jacket comes raw/un-rinsed, and can be worn as-is as it is true-to-size and does not need to shrink to fit.
For a subtle puckering of the stitching and fabric torque, with minor to unnoticeable shrinkage, the jacket can be cold soaked for 30mn, spun dry and line dried.

Do not use a full washing cycle or heat dryer.

I wear size 38 in most mfsc jackets and opted for a size 38 in the Mattock, for a trim yet comfortable fit. Refer to sizing chart for raw measurements, with our measuring method explained here.
To figure out which size will best work for you, a good system is to compare our measurements with those of a similar, lined, ¾ length jacket you own and that fits you well.

CHART

CARE:
Professional dry cleaning recommended, at an eco-friendly facility familiar with leather-trimmed garments.
This is quite a heavy jacket that might get damaged if laundered in a home washing machine.
Remove all shank buttons before cleaning.

Available Sizes:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019