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FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc Collection preview: “Pioupiou” (JP), “Surplus” (JP) and “Sportsman” (USA).

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc collection.

FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, indigo HBT cotton/linen.

FW2019 MF® “Le Vaillant”, indigo HBT cotton/linen.

FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, SC 401 Hawaii denim.

FW2019 “Le Vaillant” Pants, SC 401 Hawaii denim.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, blue dobby stripe.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, white dobby stripe.

FW2019 MF® “Musette” mf7161 (Sportsman)

FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, ticking.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, indigo linen.

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc collection.

FW2019 MF® “Mattock” Jacket, corduroy.

FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, rust.

FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, Prussian Blue.

FW2019 MF® “N-1H” Deck Jacket, brown Jungle Cloth.

FW2019 MF® “Tonkinoise”, double indigo.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas. DIY beeswax-treated prototype.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog, Fall/Winter 2019 (made in USA)

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog additions.

FFW2019 MF® “Baloo” Black edition, black tea-core cowhide..

FW2019 MF® Californian” Lot.54BB, NOS Cone Mills denim.

FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse” and “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse”, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Speedways”, NOS ‘beatnik green’ corduroy.

FW2019 MF® “Campus” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ edition, black tea-core cowhide.

FW2019 MF® “Sportsman Chinos”, NOS 2×1 denim.

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc collections.

Our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall/Winter 2019 contribution to the world of Menswear fashion this up-coming season will consist of three groupings, FW2019 “PIOUPIOU”, “SURPLUS” and “SPORTSMAN”.

The “PIOUPIOU” collection is our 2019 theme-based capsule collection.
The obsolete term “Pioupiou” was a happy-go-lucky nickname given to French soldiers heading out to the frontlines on the onset of WW1. As the “Great War” (1914-1918) dragged on, and trenches of the Western Front revealed their terrifying reality, the sobriquet quickly changed to “POILU” (literally ‘hairy’), ’tough guy’ or badass in period jargon…
Our collection is loosely inspired by French military-issued garb of the 1910’s to the 1930’s. It blends period utility uniforms and revisited vintage civilian attire into contemporary wearables, following the usual MF® “might have been” design approach.
The FW2019 “PIOUPIOU” line-up, all garments produced in Japan, will consists of:
1) “MECANO” Jacket:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” selvedge denim.
2) Pantalon “LE VAILLANT”:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” denim.
3) Chemise “POILU”:
* 100% cotton blue sateen/popeline dobby stripe
* 100% cottonwhite sateen/HBT dobby stripe.
4) Chemise “M-35”:
* 100% indigo Linen plain weave.
* 100% cotton indigo stripe ticking, 4.5 Oz.

The “SURPLUS” collection, our twist on classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, produced in Japan, will consist of:
1) “MATTOCK” Jacket:
Heavy Corduroy, camel color, 14 Oz., with “Troy Blanket” lining.
2) “MULHOLLAND DRIZZLE-KING” Jacket:
100% cotton “Cachou” Brown canvas, 13 Oz.
Also shown on the photos is a DIY beeswax-treated prototype.
3) “TRAILBLAZER” Shirt:
100% cotton Brushed Sateen, Rust color or Prussian blue.
4) N-1H Deck Jacket:
100% cotton Jungle Cloth, 14 Oz., “Mulholland” brown.
5) “TONKINOISE” Shirt:
“Gunslinger” double indigo selvedge twill, 12.4 Oz.

The “SPORTSMAN” collection, our on-going catalog of classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, made in USA, will consist of:
1) “BALOO” Jacket, Black Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, brushed cotton flannel lining.
2) “RANCH BLOUSE” Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
3) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.64 Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
4) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 Buckle Back:
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. selvedge indigo denim.
5) “SPEEDWAYS” Jeans:
NOS 100% cotton corduroy, “beatnik” green.
6) “CAMPUS” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, unlined.
7) “SPORTSMAN CHINOS” Frontier:
NOS 10.5 Oz. 2×1 rigid denim.
8) “GI” HENLEY”:
NOS indigo rib knit, 100% cotton.
9) “MUSETTE” MF 7161: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS waxed canvas, navy blue, chainstitch.
10) JD “SCUTTLER” Cap: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS French workwear woven stripe, 100% cotton.

Voila!

Drop dates for these FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc pieces should start beginning August 2019, as production in ethically-operated Japan and USA factories completes.
Each garment will be fully documented on this blog at the time of release, and the whole line-up will be available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store. A selection of mfsc FW2019 will also be available from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you very much for your support.
Sincerely,

Map Shirt, “MN” denim twill issue, “Sea Hunt” Fall 2014

Map Shirt, “MN denim twill” issue
“Sea Hunt” mfsc Fall 2014

Here is numéro trois in our Map Shirt trilogy, its pattern as always inspired by the M1953 Utility Shirt issued to the Marine Corps in the 1950’s. For those feeling we have sufficiently milked that cow, knowing this is the final addition will come as a relief.

Having reached my batrachian-related joke quota I will respectfully mention that “MN” refers to “Marine Nationale“, aka the French Navy.
Sometime in the 1960’s, denim twill dungarees replaced the set of linen work clothes originally issued to French seaman recruits. These linen work tops and bottoms came in both white and bleu chiné. Our Spring 2014 Crew Pants, the “MN” model in cotton/linen, was a reference to that heather blue 1950’s version the cols bleus (the “blue collars”, aka the men with the red pompom) had in their sea bag.

Vintage “Marine Nationale” linen work uniforms

The cotton denim the French opted for as the replacement fabric for the work uniform in the 1960’s was in no way comparable to its dark indigo blue US Navy dungaree counterpart. It was much lighter in color. The warp had a definite purplish tone. The weft gave an almost solid white aspect to the reverse side of the denim.
I have to admit that I was not a big fan of that denim when the French Government decided to tell me what to wear in the mid 1980’s. Mostly embracing American culture courtesy of Hollywood at the time, sporting denim shorts (the summer issue of the work pants) and leather Hoh-Chi-Minh sandals, was quite the brutal departure from “The Wild One”, in my eyes. For years, I relegated that tenue n°105bis to squaresville. Until…

This denim eventually grew on me, as its own thing with its own History, to the point where it was no longer a pale version of something else.
Still referred to as bleu chiné in Naval circles, the contemporary Marine Nationale version of this work-clothes fabric is today made of a 65% poly and 35% cotton blend.
My fondness is limited to its earlier 100% cotton version.
The textile experts at Sugar Cane Co did an amazing job at instructing their factory in milling this “MN denim twill” from the authentic vintage swatches we had supplied. To be honest, the first fabric sample roll lacked the purplish hue and was too grey, but this production batch is spot on!
We chose to have it milled on shuttle looms, a costly process, opting for a solid white selvedge ID.
The result is an exclusive mfsc 9.4 oz. denim twill I am quite found of and proud to introduce for our “Sea Hunt” Fall 2014 chapter.

In our “Map Shirt” grouping, the pattern for the “MN” issue is shared with its “Cavalry Twill” sister, displaying the twill fabric selvedge on the front panel fold and on the button hole placket (only visible on the inside of the shirt).
For the batrachian-inclined, the frog skin version of our Map Shirt is discussed here and available there.

The “MN” Map Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS

FABRIC:
9.4 oz. denim twill, 100% cotton, solid white selvedge ID.

DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired my 1950’s UMSC-issued utility shirts.
* Comfortable over-shirt fit.
* USN-type chambray accents (collar facing, wrist gussets, pocket flap facing, inside pockets)
* Two chest pockets with flap closure.
* Concealed button front closure.
* Selvedge button hole placket and front panel fold.
* One large map inside pocket, side opening.
* One concealed chest pocket, top opening.
* White corozo buttons (these buttons are wood, NOT plastic).
* Side slits.
* Flat-felled seam construction.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread stitching.
* Made in Japan.

WASHING/SIZING:
This garment comes raw/unwashed and will shrink to tagged size after an original cold soak/line dry.
I soak mine, spun dry and wore it damp to shape it. It fully dried on a hanger overnight and was crispy and ready to wear in the morning. Do not be alarmed if the fabric wrinkles, this is normal and not a defect.
Our Map Shirt is intended to be quite a comfortable fitting garment, easy to wear over a chambray shirt, a Tshirt… If you are a Medium in mfsc jackets/shirts, you are a Medium in the “MN” Map Shirt.

Maximum shrinkage to be expected with the use of hot water and heat dryer, but is NOT recommended, as unnecessary loss of color and unattractive marbling will occur.
This “MN” denim twill will eventually fade a bit with normal wear and subsequent washing, but the contrasts will not be as gratifying as the honeycomb-obsessed dream about.
When cleaning is required, we recommend hand washing in cold water with mild detergent and line dry.

Please refer to sizing chart for raw/rinsed measurements.

Available Raw/unwashed.
Sizes S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $349.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not answered above.
As always, thank you sincerely for your support