Mister Freedom® TRADE Shirt & NIXON Shirt, double calico twill. mfsc Surplus Fall 2018. Made in Japan.
We released our first double calico discharge print novelty fabric during the swinging days of our Gypsy Blues collection, in the form of a swanky shirt, the Fall 2017 Liquette Manouche.
The inspiration for that fabric came, as often with what we do, from old rags collected over the years. Here is how the concept of a double-sided fabric was introduced on the original post:
“…we figured we’d chalenge our friends at Toyo Enterprises with a new puzzling favor: a double discharge-printed calico fabric! Inspired by a rare French 1930’s vintage garment, we had been contemplating the idea for some years, and thought it was time to mail an R&D package across the Pacific, attention Toyo’s Textile Lab… We opted for a black, crisp cotton twill as the base fabric, and painstakingly selected two distinctive traditional calico patterns from antique textiles and swatches collected over the years. For production, the two subtlety-contrasting calico patterns are discharge-printed, on both the face and reverse of the fabric (i.e. “bleached-out” with low bleed-through.)…”
The calico patterns we selected this Fall came from the archives of a Parisian industrial drawing study (see ink stamp that reads Dessins Industriels “A. MAUSES”, Paris, 13 Rue du Sentier in the back of the design cards), who apparently got contracted by a textile-printing mill for original fabric prints, sometimes in the 1930’s~50’s. We scored these hand-painted goodies in a Parisian flea market, years ago. One of the pattern is a fairly traditional stripe-effect repeat (fabric of the Nixon Shirt), contrasting with the more “Liberty Print” or polka-dot style of the other (Trade Shirt). And no, these are not UFO’s. It is unsure whether either graphic was ever selected and made it as a fabric print at the time.
From MF® design archives, antique French hand-painted graphic repeats used for fabric printing.
Both shirt patterns have been introduced previously in Mister Freedom® collections, and have since become wardrobe staples, from Los Angeles, CA., to remote parts of the Atacama Desert. The TRADE Shirt pattern is from our 2012 Men Of The Frontieryippee ki-yay days, and the Nixon Shirt made its first appearance in the Fall 2017 Surplus collection.
Both the Mister Freedom® mfsc TRADE Shirt and NIXON Shirt are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.
Please note that, although cut from double-sided printed fabric, neither the NIXON or TRADE shirts are reversible.
SPECS: FABRIC: A crisp 5 Oz. black 100% cotton twill, double-printed with two specific antique calico patterns on face and reverse, using a discharge-print technique. Milled and printed in Japan exclusively for mfsc.
1) MF® TRADE Shirt Double Calico: DETAILS: * An original mfsc pattern, early American homesteader style, a silhouette reminiscent of old Frontier days and Native Americans adopting non-traditional western fashions, as seen on period field photography, such as Adam Clark Vroman or Edward S Curtis’ works. This is an updated version of the original 2012 Mister Freedom® TRADE Shirt. * Pull-over tunic style. * Double-side printed fabric (non-reversible garment). * Stand collar with chin strap. * Back panel and cuffs shearing. * Tonal corozo wood buttons. * Indigo popeline button placket facing, with period-style “Union” ticket. * Early European-style side gussets, arrowhead patch pattern. * Flat felled chain-stitch seams and single needle machine construction. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * Original mfsc “SURPLUS” woven rayon patch. * Made in Japan from fabric milled in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® TRADE Shirt in double calico comes raw/unwashed, and will all shrink to tagged size. Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. The MF® TRADE Shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I opted for a comfortable Medium in the MF® TRADE Shirt. Please refer to chart to determine which size works for you.
FW2018 Trade Shirt size chart
2) MF® NIXON Shirt Double Calico: DETAILS: * A garment pattern inspired by an original 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray shirt, and other vintage work shirts such as Big Mac®, Big Dick®, Big Yank®, etc… * Trim silhouette with a 1940’s uniform vibe. * Fancy double-layer left chest pocket with flap, known as “cigarette pocket”, in which you should put anything but cigarettes. * Slanted opening right-side pocket with pen slot. * Tonal corozo wood buttons. * Chin strap collar, with vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons on the collar band. * Hi-count triple stitch construction. * Green bar-tack accents on pockets. * MF® Surplus green contrast chainstitch on the inside. * Side gussets. * Original Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label. * Made in Japan from fabric milled in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® NIXON Shirt Chambray in double calico comes raw/unwashed and will all shrink to tagged size. Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. The MF® NIXON Shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I opted for a slim-fitting Medium in the MF® NIXON Shirt. Please refer to chart to determine which size works for you.
FW2018 Nixon Shirt size chart
CARE: Wash your shirt when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid potential marbling. Machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Available raw (un-washed) Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large
The ROUGHRIDER Blouse, the latest Mike Foxtrot denim jacket.
Proper compañero of the Mister Freedom® Roughrider, the MF® Californian Lot.64 OG, NOS Organic Cone Mills denim twill (2018), for a touch of Canadian elegance.
Mister Freedom® ROUGHRIDER Blouse, NOS Organic 15.5 Oz.Cone Mills selvedge indigo denim twill. Fall 2018 mfsc Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.
This year, we decided to welcome a new player in the happy family of MF® denim jackets. We’re calling it the ROUGHRIDER, because we’re loco like that.
This all-original MF® jacket pattern should have chronologically been introduced after our Ranch Blouse model (considered a “type I” trucker jacket, initially released in 2011) and before the Cowboy Jacket (considered a “type III”, initially released in 2015). The ROUGHRIDER is indeed a modified version of our classic Ranch Blouse, and the harbinger of the Cowboy Jacket, but we’ve been known to time-travel a bit, through our eclectic capsule collections. Novelty-wise, don’t alert HypeBeast just yet, as the MF® Design Dept. got lazy as a dodo on this one. We basically grabbed the old school Ranch Blouse pattern, slapped on an extra pocket flap, borrowed the collar shape from Uncle Sam, and threw in a left-over lining for good measure.
For this first iteration of the ROUGHRIDER however, the jacket gets a royal treat: the final precious yardage of New Old Stock Cone 15.5 Oz organic denim twill, a remarquable textile achievement courtesy of the now-defunct Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C. We have previously featured this rare and amazing denim on a version of the MF® Californian Blue Jeans, the Lot.64 OG released in the Spring of 2018, for those interested in adding a touch of perfectly-matching and eye-soothing Canadian elegance to their wardrobe.
For more background on this very special denim, here is a quote from our friend Chip at Cone Denim, who reached-out early this year to give us some insightful technical intel. Chip knows a thing or two about this organic indigo denim, as he personally helped develop it at the time: “We (Cone Denim) partnered with Stony Creek Colors in Tennessee who are working with Tobacco farmers to change their crops into indigo plant. This is how the fabric gets to be such a vibrant blue, and is completely unique from any other dye we have ever run in the past. It truly is one of the greatest, and most sustainable, selvedges we put out: Texas organic cotton, America indigo plant dye, all woven here in the US.”
All this might sound like re-hashed fashions for the fiercest keyboard cowboy, but the result is kinda… f’in stellar, if we can say so ourselves. With its beautiful hue of indigo, rare denim, traditional yet original pattern, that ROUGHRIDER number is a darn good-looking jacket, versatile, ethically made, and guaranteed to beautify with wear.
The Mister Freedom® ROUGHRIDER Blouse is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 15.5 Oz. indigo twill denim, Organic cotton, solid white selvedge ID. Lining: Soft-hand 100% cotton brushed flannel with a 1940’s-50’s-inspired vibrant plaid pattern, discharge-printed. Fabric milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage denim “trucker” type jackets, and previously-released Mister Freedom® versions. * Modified collar pattern, early American work blouse style. * ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette. * Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching. * Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets. * Selvedge front panel fold. * Contrast printed flannel pocket flap facing. * Contrast 10 Oz. “Okinawa 301” collar facing. * Metal cast MF® branded buttons, ‘oxidized’ brass. * Buckle back, adjustable, riveted. * Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked. * Combination yellow/orange 100% cotton stitching. * Original mfsc debossed veg-tan leather patch. * Made in USA.
SIZING FIT: The MF® ROUGHRIDER comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry. The pattern of the ROUGHRIDER has been adjusted to take into account the extra layer of the lining. I wear my Ranch Blouse size in the ROUGHRIDER, a comfortable 38 (cold-soaked/hung dry), as opposed to a slim 36 in the Cowboy Jacket pattern. Fit photo shows a cardboard-like Roughrider Blouse size 38, fresh-out of the cold soak/line dry process. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
DENIM CARE: Wash your ROUGHRIDER Blouse when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the indigo denim warp side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim garment.
Just enjoy the journey and the satisfaction of wearing an ethically-made garment. Your Mister Freedom® denim jacket will age gracefully, and to your own beat.
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY. Sizes 34 X-small 36 Small 38 Medium 40 Large 42 X-Large 44 XX-Large
Mister Freedom® CPO Shirt & Naval Chinos, limited “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition. Surplus collection mfsc Fall 2018. Made in Japan.
What we have here is our elusive 2009 blue shirt pattern, familiar to the MF® OGs, and its Naval Clothing Tailor khaki-legged friend, both given the GB denim treatment.
After an epic 2016 apparition in a smashing OMG-so-stiff-it-makes-my-body-ache 11.7 Oz. indigo canvas fabric, the ol’ MF® blue CPO and Chinos are indeed turning green this Fall.
Mustering-up our best one-trick-pony skills and cow-milking mastery, this 2018 iteration features an old mfsc flame, the olive green 10 Oz. selvedge denim twill inspired by 1940’s-50’s British military utility fabric. This green denim was initially introduced in 2016 via the Garrison shirt and twill pants combo, during our exciting and controversial 2015 Saigon Cowboy season and its fierce keyboard snipers.
The traditional “Liberty” treatment to US Navy dress blues and other garments is by now familiar to all heritage clothing aficionados. We have often respectfully ‘played’ with that concept of custom concealed style extravaganza.
See gallery below for a brief visual recap.
Old photo of the original “blue shirt” (2008)
MF® CPO shirt 189ac (2016)
MF® Naval Chinos type No.266ac (2016)
Well worn Garrison shirt (2016) and raw CPO, cut from the same GB denim.
This season, we decided to give a 1966 “The Sand Pebbles” classic movie twist to our fictional CPO and Chinos combo. For those interested in the historical background of Opium Wars, or intrigued by the sound of “… when U.S. warships patrolled China’s rivers…”, a condensed summary of the period can be found here.
So as to not get lost down the usual rabbit hole, we will leave authentic 1920’s stories of the U.S. Asiatic Fleet to military buffs, and refer you to Hollywood’s light version of things, for an excitement-filled evening with Jake Holman and the USS San Pablo patrolling the Yangtze in 1926.
You savvy?
The MF® CPO shirt and Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.
SPECS: FABRIC: “GB denim twill”: An olive green warp and natural weft 100% cotton twill, 10 Oz., orange color selvedge ID. Inspired by the fabric of 1940’s-50’s British military utility overalls and blouses. Milled in Japan.
MF® CPO shirt “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition: DETAILS: * Original mfsc shirt pattern initially released in 2008, freely inspired by period USN uniforms, 1930’s – 1940’s military shirting, naval custom tailoring and vintage “Chief Petty Officer” type shirts. * Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring vintage-style ’Liberty cuffs’, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors. * Concealed mfsc dragon embroidered patches on cuffs, 100% rayon. * Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…) * Concealed chest passport/iPhone® pocket. * Original MF® inverted box-pleat arcuate single chest pocket design. * Chin strap. * Selvedge side gussets. * Vintage style button front placket, anodized black snap closure. * Waist closure and chin strap USN plastic anchor button. * Reinforcement shoulder yoke, vintage uniform style. * Arcuate back yoke. * OD popeline facing. * Curvy front and back shirt tails. * Tonal 100% cotton stitching. * Designed in USA, manufactured in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The “San PABLO” CPO Shirt in GB denim comes raw/unwashed/loomstate. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments: * 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry. * As an optional step, wear the garment briefly while still damp, in order to shape it to your body and set your own creases. Hang and let fully dry (try to shape the gshirt on the hanger to look as if you are still wearing it.)
Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear. The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I am a Medium in most mfsc shirting and opted for a Medium in the “SAN PABLO” CPO shirt. No need to size up or down from your usual mfsc shirting size. The military-inspired and uniform-style cut emphasizes a broad shoulders and slim waist silhouette. Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.
CARE: Wash your shirt when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.
Available RAW/unwashed. SIZES: Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large
MF® Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition: DETAILS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring a vintage-style ’Liberty’ patch, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors.
* Concealed embroidered mfsc dragon 100% rayon patch on bottom leg, over-riding an un-marked military-style ID patch. * Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…) * Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing. * Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons. * Thin trousers-style belt-loops. * Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing. * Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID. * Flat-felled leg seams. * Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching. * Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband. * Made in Japan, designed in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The “SAN PABLO” Naval Chinos in GD denim come raw/unwashed/loomstate. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments: * 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry.
Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear. The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers. Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.
CARE: Wash your pants when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Mister Freedom® Cowboy Jacket, “Okinawa 301” denim, “RODEO” Limited Edition & solid. FW2018 Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.
As one might have gathered from the MF® Fall-Winter 2018 lookbook, we decided to play around with ‘branding’ this season, taking pointers from old school chainstitch embroidery jobs we’ve seen on vintage clothing through years of collecting. Inspired by classic collegiate award jackets, 1950’s rodeo events promo outfits, old custom-branded work uniforms, we are releasing several limited edition MF®-branded pieces this Fall.
We translated some of our favorite T-shirt graphics into rayon embroidery, picking a few traditional garment patterns as candidates for “walking billboards”, following Henry Ford’s good words of advice, “A man who stops advertising to save money is like a man who stops a clock to save time.”
An obvious choice was the MF® Cowboy Jacket, a classic “trucker” style denim jacket we introduced during Fall 2015. Several iterations have included a 12.5 Oz. dark indigo denim version, a 13 Oz. “Malibu” denim lagoon-blue rendition, a wheat denim Cone Mills issue, and the most recent black-coated denim SS2018 release.
Unless you have already decided to adorn the rear panel of your “Cowboy” jacket with vintage AC/DC patches, or opted for hand-stitched artwork customization (see our friend John B‘s impressive MF® Ranch Blouse), there hasn’t been any good reason yet to get photographed from behind… until this release. Forget elevator selfies, you’re gonna need a friend to capture this baby!
The Fall 2018 Cowboy jacket features the popular sugarcane fiber/cotton denim blend developed by the R&D lab at Sugar Cane Co (did you know they now have an official IG account!?), an old mfsc favorite known as “Okinawa 301”, this time milled in a whooping special weight of 16.25 Oz.! The “Okinawa” denim is notorious for its desirable patina potential, and has been featured many times in Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc collaborations throughout the past 12 years.
The jacket is available full-on Rodeo style for the bad hombre, or plain-back, without embroidery. An alternative is to just go nuts and customize your own. See below leather appliqué prototype, a one-of-a-kind hippy job done in-house, while the boss was playing badminton. It features an original free-hand “creation”, a California desert scene with a flying UFO (or sombrero, according to your level of sun exposure), made from left-over veg-tan leather scraps from the MF® Campus jacket production. Have at it.
One-of-a-kind customized MF® “Cowboy” jacket, raw, rinsed, and tanned in the California sun. (Not for sale)
Raw, freshly customized.
Rinsed.
Tanned.
The mfsc COWBOY Jacket in “Okinawa 301” denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. The limited-edition RODEO version is chainstitched in Japan, using Toyo Enterprise’s expert craftsmanship and experience with traditional Americana-style embroidery.
SPECS: FABRIC: “Okinawa 301” denim, a sturdy and hairy 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. This fabric is exclusive to Toyo Enterprises.
DETAILS: * Fairly trim silhouette, sixties vibe. * Special RODEO version: all original MF® artwork on rear panel, 100% rayon thread traditional chainstitch embroidery. * Original MF® slanted flap chest pockets. * Original MF® cast ‘silver’ shank buttons. * MF® yellow “M” stitching on pockets. * Orange and yellow combination stitching. * NOS woven plaid fabric accents on pocket flap facing. * Buttoned cinch-waist side tabs. * Copper rivet reinforcements backed by leather washers for pockets and sleeve placket. * Natural veg-tan debossed leather MF® original patch. * All cotton thread chainstitch construction. * Made in USA, embroidered in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The “Okinawa 301” Cowboy Jacket comes UN-WASHED (i.e. raw/loomstate) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw indigo denim garments: * 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry. * As an optional step, wear the garment briefly while still damp, in order to shape it to your body and set your own creases. Hang and let fully dry (try to shape the jacket on the hanger to look as if you are still wearing it.) Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear.
As I did with all previous versions of the MF® Cowboy Jacket, I opted to size down to a Small (36) in this “Okinawa 301” edition. I am usually in between sizes (36 and 38) and went for the slimmer/shorter silhouette for this jacket. As with all denim twills, but even more so with this particular ‘Okinawa’ sugarcane fiber denim, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Please note that the debossed graphic on the veg-tan MF® leather patch will naturally ‘flatten out’ when soaked in water.)
CARE: Wash when necessary. We recommend turning the jacket inside out to avoid marbling on the indigo side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive indigo contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim jacket. Just enjoy the journey and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully!
Available RAW/unwashed, plain-back or “Rodeo” limited edition. SIZES: X-Small (34) Small (36) Medium (38) Large (40) X-Large (42) XX-Large (44)
Mister Freedom® mfsc BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls, “Okinawa 301” denim edition. FW2018Sportsman Catalog. Made in USA.
The term ‘buckaroo’ has its commonly agreed-on origin in the late 1800s days of the American Frontier, when Spanish settlers and bad hombres referred to cowboys and ranch hands as vaqueros, vaca meaning cow in the Spanish language, with the v pronounced close to a b. The anglicized version and phonetic spelling caught on.
Sometime in 2012, we introduced a new blue jeans pattern, the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc “BUCKAROOS” Waist Overalls, initially issued in two distinct NOS denim twills.
These dungarees were a departure from the average five-pocket jeans, and featured an intricate rear cinch strap pattern. This ‘buckle-back’ style was not lifted from any vintage sample, but came out of the drawing table of our Los Angeles atelier, and trial & error prototype making. (Someone did mention having seen a similar pattern on a vintage catalog that I’m not aware of. That wouldn’t be surprising as nihil novi sub sole seems to apply to clothing design.)
We matched our original back yoke/strap construction with a ‘western’ type front pockets pattern. The folded flap buttons up to the pocket yoke, a feature that could come in handy when horseback riding or sitting on a bouncy old truck bench seat, to prevent the content of pockets from spilling out. There are many examples of this type of front pocket construction on western slacks, although it is uncommon on denim dungarees besides a rare iconic model made by HeadLight in the 30’s~40’s.
By popular demand, the MF® Bucks’ are making a comeback for Fall 2018. We raided Sugar Cane Co’s vault of exclusive denim twills, and secured an old mfsc favorite, the mighty “Okinawa 301”, a ‘hairy’ 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, blend of 20% sugarcane fibers and 80% cotton, with a white/green line selvedge ID.
This “Okinawa” denim has enviable fading potential and will progressively develop a desirable patina overtime, with normal wear/wash cycles.
For more ramblings relating to design tidbits, hot-branding the leather patch and b/w photography, refer to the original buckaroos post, as we’re making ‘em just the way we used to.
The MF® BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from selvedge denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS: PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by western slacks, vintage denim dungarees and old imagery. FABRIC: “Okinawa 301”, 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. This fabric is exclusive to Toyo Enterprises. Pocket bags: Vintage NOS cotton twill, navy blue color, sturdy workwear fabric, origin France.
DETAILS: * ‘Old West’ silhouette, revisited. * Original front pocket style with folding buttoned flap. Reinforcement un-marked copper riveting. * Original MFSC upper curved cinch back strap, sandwiched in the back yoke, riveted. * Wider rear belt loops (to slide the cinch on top or under the belt loop.) * Original MF® “Californian” shank metal buttons, ‘old stock’ silver finish. * Concealed rivets on back pockets with original “M” stitch and slightly curved opening. * Original double labeling. One printed cloth label with original artwork mounted during construction, partially superimposed by a leather patch with “MF” hot branding. * All 100% cotton color thread. We are using an original MFSC combination of 12 types of gauge/color thread per pair. Main colors are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast. * Sturdy 100% cotton vintage New Old Stock navy blue twill pocket bags. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The“Okinawa” BUCKAROOS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a cold-soak/hang-dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol: * Cold soak for about one hour, with occasional hand agitation, spin dry. * Hang dry for a few hours, and wear briefly while still damp to set creases. * Line dry until fully dry. * The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the fibers, and will rapidly subside with wear.
The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. The BUCKAROOS are designed with somewhat of a generous vintage silhouette in mind, and not intended to be worn tight. The leg is similar to our old Californian Lot.54 pattern. See the various silhouettes of the MF® Californians referenced in the family photo below.
I usually wear W32 in our Californian blue jeans but decided to go for a W31 in the BUCKAROOS, just personal preference with this particular model. The BUCKAROOS are still considered true-to-size, and whether you size down or go for your usual size is up to your desired silhouette. As with all denim twills, but even more so with this particular ‘Okinawa’ sugarcane fiber denim, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements: Soaked = 60mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage.) Please note that the awkward fit pic features a pair of BUCKAROOS straight-off the soak/dry process, unaltered and briefly worn just for the occasion.
DENIM CARE: Wash denim jeans when needed. Hand-wash or machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments. Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive indigo contrasts, refrain from over-washing your jeans. Just enjoy the journey and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully!
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY. Sizes W28 x L32 W29 x L32 W30 x L32 W31 x L32 W32 x L34 W33 x L34 W34 x L34 W36 x L36 W38 x L36
