The “CAMP” Shirt, printed brushed flannel
“The Sportsman” Collection. Made in USA.
MFSC Fall 2013
Woven plaid flannel shirts have been a staple of many labels comes Fall. A bit more neglected than its woven sister is the printed plaid flannel shirt…
Printed flannel fabrics were popular in the 1940’s-50’s. Fabric printing being less costly than weaving and looming, printed flannel garments made it to store shelves in shapes of outdoor/work/western shirts, robes, pajamas, sleeping bags liners, hunting jackets linings…
Some prints were novelty types graphics but many were a trompe-l’œil that looked like woven patterns: tartans, plaids, herringbone, houndstooth, gingham… A combination of ink and discharge prints made the plain weave flannel fabrics look fancily woven from a distance.
The inspiration for our “Camp” shirt print was a vintage early 1950s flannel men’s robe (made by Montgomery Ward label “Brent’s”). I played with the original red color combo to come up with a ‘plausible’ second color option that didn’t exist in the catalog.
I had thought of making a robe but was soon punched in the face during a board meeting. I then decided to make shirts instead… It’s all about communication around here.
We sourced out some fine cotton flannel (selvedge, since we wanted to use the selvedge on the gussets) and it went through the lengthy process or getting dyed, printed and brushed (for a soft nap touch) in Japan before getting shipped to Los Angeles.
The shirts were then cut/sewn in a clean, ethically run factory, under the California sun.
The “Camp” adds itself to the “Sportsman” shirting catalog, our on-going concept introduced in 2012.
We are using our Sportsman shirt pattern, already available in indigo popeline, stripe ticking and chambray. This Fall, the painted metal snap buttons (by DOT) are a nod to vintage 50’s Wrangler or Ranchcraft western plaid shirts. Please note our ‘Camp” shirt is not a western cut/yoke type shirt.
The “Camp” displays our Sportsman signature green chainstitch on the inside, seen on the ‘very Christmas like’ dangling gusset run-offs.
Those of you familiar with old beat-up vintage 50’s printed flannel shirt know that they age well and look amazing with patina, once the print starts wearing off from slow abrasion, wash and wear and sun exposure. Don’t get too excited, that takes years wear of course. And in the field, not on the sofa.
Just something to think about if you have children. They are today making fun of your clothes but will someday proudly wear them when you have done all the breaking-in 😉
Designed and made in the USA by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage outdoor/workwear shirting.
100% cotton brushed flannel, dyed and ink/discharge printed in Japan.
Two color options
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original MF® chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front, metal painted DOT snaps.
* MFSC branded original embossed metal buttons for neck band closure.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count, tonal.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich MF® “Sportsman” signature.
* Side gussets with selvedge fabric.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
As most times with our clothes, these shirts come RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size.
I wear a Medium in all MF® shirts, and wear Medium in the Camp shirt as well.
Although 100% cotton, this flannel fabric has quite a bit of ‘mechanical stretch’ after being rinsed and dried, therefore adjusting itself slightly to the wearer.
For cleaning, we recommend cold water wash on gentle cycle and hang dry.
Please note that the shirts in the chart below were cold rinsed and fully machine dried, for your shrinkage reference only. Again we recommend hang drying them.
Available from our brand spanking new online store
Size Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large
Made in USA
For any questions please Email email@example.com or call the store at 323) 653-2014
Thank you for the support.
Mister Freedom® MFSC “El Jefe” Henley Shirt
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Fall 2012
It is now time for the first installment of the final chapter of our “Viva la Revolución” MFSC Fall 2013 collection. To warm things up, let’s start at the top and introduce ‘El Jefe’…
Not a very common feature of Henley type shirts is the off-set front placket of some early models. This off-centered undershirt opening was an added protection against the cold and winds, leaving the neck fully covered when a top garment was worn.
See two vintage examples here, with the close-up of that hysterical woven label… and its roughly 33 1/3 % wool fiber content, give or take 😉
You sometimes can spot these types of shirts in old period movies. Also in Darius Kinsey style photographic works of woodsmen and other 1900’s~30’s delicate creatures. Below, the fellow on the left appears to be wearing an off-set Henley undershirt or union suit (20’s? from the ‘Kinsey Photographer’ book ISBN 1-884822-22-3).
Undershirts made of brushed cotton fleece (pilou in French) were a popular winter layer in the Old World, while the New World had preferred the cotton/wool knit jerseys, or the later waffle ‘thermal’ still used today.
For ‘El Jefe’, we chose 100% cotton brushed fleece with heathered pattern, in two color options. The heather pattern is unlike the typical athletic type fleece, but rather unique with a very un-even random repeat (something programmed machines do not like.)
The construction as well was a bit of a challenge for the factory since we wanted a ‘poncho’ type cut, ie. a single panel folded in half with no top shoulder seam. We’re crazy like that.
This made the neck opening cutting stage more complicated and time consuming than the usual front/back two panel construction (because the neck hole is in the middle, you cannot start the electrical cutter from the edge of the fabric.)
The sleeves are intentionally cut to fall a bit above the cuffs, an acquired taste and feature often seen on military winter underwear clothing, so that the under layer remains concealed under the uniform. It also somewhat prevented a sleeve to get caught in machinery.
‘El Jefe’ is quite warm and can be worn either as a layer or a outer piece, tucked in or out according to your mood or religious beliefs.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane.
PATTERN: An original MSFC pattern, inspired by early European Henley type winter undershirts.
FABRIC: Mid weight 100% cotton fleece, soft brushed back, heather pattern with tightly woven cotton sateen button placket. Made in Japan. Two color ways
a) Natural heather with off-white cotton sateen placket.
b) Grey heather with slate blue cotton sateen placket.
* Single panel fold, ‘poncho style’ body.
* Off center front button placket
* Natural horn cat eye button front closure.
* 3/4 type sleeves.
* Adjustable gusseted cuff button closure.
* Coverstitch construction, 100% cotton tonal thread.
* Made in Japan.
I am a medium in ‘El Jefe’, with a comfortable fit.
We recommend regular gentle cycle washing and line dry. Minimal shrinkage with this cotton fleece, a medium will shrink to tag size. Like with mid weight ‘sweat shirt’ type textiles, fleece stretches slightly when worn.
Please refer to chart below for raw/washed & dried approximate measurements.
Size S, M, L, XL, XXL
Visit our webstore or brick and mortar in Los Angeles to get yours.
Thank you for your support 😉
The “CAMPUS CARDIGAN”, Sportsman Collection
Mister Freedom® x Ohio Knitting Mills
Walking past a table of folded vintage 1950’s cable knit shirts last year at ‘Inspiration’ in Long Beach, I noticed the “Ohio Knitting Mills, Since 1927″ sign on the booth.
I’ve always loved these shirts, having first seen one in the 80’s on the cover of the ACE Records “Hollywood Rock’n’Roll” LP, featuring that famous photo of two thirsty fellas from the Booze Fighters MC in 1947…
Turns out, “if it was knitted, wool or cotton, it was probably from OKM” said Steven Tatar, now running the show at Ohio Knitting Mills.
Well maybe they made this one too?
I’ll call Sophia later, back on topic…
We spoke regarding a potential future MF® x OKM project… and months later decided to put words into actions. And that’s how the journey of the “Campus Cardigan” started…
Wool, as i was about to learn, is similar to denim. In the sense that not all is created equal.
I also was about to get some tech terms thrown at me. A ‘Milanese stitch having to be attached to a jersey body‘?… Soprano material to me. But not to Mr Tatar.
As for inspiration for the project, I used a cream color vintage 50’s Letterman sweater, found a while back. I liked that it didn’t have the ‘Frankie Lymon & the Teeenager’ vibe, but rather a versatile cardigan for grown-ups vibe with interesting construction and unusual details that still looked ‘simple’ and not overly designed.
I also had attempted to indigo dye that vintage sweater, since when I get going, anything that doesn’t move is a potential candidate for getting thrown in the vat.
Not being sure what to expect with wool, I was happily surprised with the result.
Well all that sounded like a good challenging puzzle for our new collaboration.
And a challenge it was, for all involved.
From sourcing the right unbleached domestic wool, spinning the yarn to specs, milling, cutting, sewing, solving construction challenges, adjusting patterns and machines… to the (fun part for us) indigo dyeing…
We wanted the buttons to remain their original natural color (and not get dyed, as seen on the 1rst prototype shown in some of the photos), so, finally sewing on the corozo buttons and dual labels was quite satisfying.
The natural wool yarn OKM sourced has a beautiful ‘slubby’ texture and subtle color variation. This makes the natural color option as interesting as the second color option… Indigo.
Back in California, we put some long hours into relentlessly dipping the heavy pre-soaked/dye-ready sweaters in our indigo vat. One by one, some 3 or 4 dips depending on the resulting hue, stopping only when we thought the indigo color looked nice. The result of that ordeal is an assortment of various shades of blue that will change overtime, with wear and outside exposure.
Designed by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Ohio Knitting Mills. All made in USA by OKM. Indigo vat dyed in California.
Thanks Steve, Paula and the OKM team for their expertise and for making this project happen.
PATTERN: Inspired by a vintage 1950’s Letterman wool sweater, cardigan type. ‘Dropped shoulders’ pattern. Single wrap body panel (no side seams). Relaxed silhouette.
FABRIC: unbleached 100% wool knit jersey, American yarn spun and milled in the USA.
* Wool Jersey body and sleeves, ribbed end knit.
* Single piece body wrap knit (no side seam).
* Milanese knit button placket.
* Wide wrist knit cuffs for roll-up.
* Fold over double layer pockets.
* Blind stitched bottom hem, folded end knit.
* Natural Corozo buttons, aka vegetable ivory or coconut wood.
I could go with a Small, but decided to wear a Medium, for layering options with heavier shirts/henleys this winter…
The natural option comes unwashed. The indigo has been rinsed. The loose jersey knit tends to stretch slightly after being rinsed and dried. The sweater will eventually adapt to your body with repeat wear, looking more natural than it did on the first day. This is normal.
Refer to the charts below for measurements.
Size Chart NATURAL
Size Chart INDIGO
When needed, the “Campus Cardigan” can be hand washed in cold water, with minimal mild detergent. NO machine wash, NO boiling. Machine spin dry, then lay the sweater on a towel, flipping it around until dry. NO electrical/gas dryer. The sweater is quite heavy when wet, so do not hang dry on a hanger, as this will result in unattractive stretching…
Your sweater can also be professionally dry cleaned.
Same care for the natural or indigo options, making sure you wash the indigo by itself, as bleeding will occur for some time.
DISCLAIMER: Due to the natural of indigo dyeing, some color rub-off will occur on light color shirting worn underneath the indigo cardigan, noticeably in the armpits .
This crocking should eventually stabilize, and also eventually wash off stained garments.
All this comes with Indigo Territory.
Small, Medium, Large, X-Large
a) Natural $399.95
b) Indigo $449.95 (ordering this option may take some time should we run out, as we are not sure when we will be able to do another dye batch.)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
firstname.lastname@example.org will gladly answer any questions unanswered above 😉
Thank you always for your support.
Smoking is NOT a smart thing to do, but there’s hope for all. I’ve quit since then.
MFxBR “PENSACOLA Seaplane Jacket, Intermediate”
Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s 20th Anniversary Jacket
We were honored to be involved with our friends at BUZZ RICKSON’S celebration of their 20th Anniversary this year.
To commemorate their dedication and passion at making outstanding mil-specs replica garments for two decades as a branch of Toyo Enterprises, Mr. Kameya (Buzz Rickson’s Skipper) give us carte blanche for a special limited edition piece, granting access to the entire BR catalog of trims/fabrics and expert manufacturing. Oh boy…
MF® came up with a simplified scenario to make this jacket ‘plausible’, aiming for solid and timeless, as the pieces that usually inspire us. After research and some hours on the drawing table, the MFxBR “Pensacola Seaplane Jacket” started shaping up:
The “Naval Air Station Pensacola” in Florida (NAS Pensacola) has been the cradle of Naval Aviation since WW1, where all involved personnel got to train (aviators, Navy flyers, Marines, ground crew, Officers, Seabees…). Read its rich history here.
Well, we had our name… now we just needed a jacket.
For the design, we imagined that a special test/prototype jacket had been developed by the Naval Air Factory (NAF), to be worn on Base and for training only. It combined vintage elements of Navy and Air Force issued jackets, and was adopted by crews of specific Joint Operations (involving Seaplanes, flyers and sea crews…)
We came up with a type of early Military flight jacket that could have existed. We blended decades of pre WW2 flight apparel History, freely borrowing from iconic mil-specs jackets and willingly mixing eras. Our inspiration came from:
* late 1920’s type A-1 leather jackets
* Late 1930’s “Jacket, flying, Intermediate, Jungle cloth” (OD jungle cloth/zipper/A-1 style knit collar)
* M-422 leather Jacket that replaced the jungle cloth in 1938 ( later to morph into Type G-1 jackets)…
* Our speculative imagination, vintage archives, NOS trims vault, and the usual added grain of salt.
Why navy and white? Well we figured these were not unpopular colors in the USN and USAAF, and this being an amphibious Op type garment it made sense. The corduroy lining is a nod to the hand-warmer pockets of early Peacoats, same specs and shade. The single layer waist band wool knit is that of Type M-422 Jackets, cuffs those of A-2 Jackets, but in natural color.
To spice it up we dug out an old stock of military ‘ring’ removable buttons. We were lucky to get our hands on some rare NOS composite white buttons, with an engraved anchor, in their original Gov’t issued packaging.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and expertly crafted in Japan by Buzz Rickson’s of Toyo Enterprises in a one-time limited edition.
In the US and EU, the MFxBR Pensacola Jacket is only available from Mister Freedom®.
PATTERN: An original MFxBR pattern, inspired by vintage American mil-specs flight apparel.
Body: 14 oz. all cotton “jungle cloth”, originally developed for the US Navy for its sturdiness/softness/strength/protection qualities while at sea under harsh conditions. Famous for its application in the USN Type N-1 deck jackets. Milled in Japan to exact period mil-specs.
Lining: Cotton mid wade corduroy.
* Slim silhouette, one piece back.
* Mil-specs wool knit cuffs, waist band and collar band.
* Cotton corduroy full lining.
* Navy CPO shirt type anchor buttons collar fastening.
* A-1 type front flap patch pockets, with corduroy lining.
* Metal snap waist band closure.
* Detachable white composite anchor ring buttons for front closure, vintage military New Old Stock.
* Underarm venting metal eyelets.
* Original Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s double labeling and ‘contract’ tag, a nod to early USAAF ‘modified’ flying gear.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
The ‘Pensacola’ runs true to size. I am usual a medium/38 in MFSC coats and jackets, and wear a size 38 in this jacket.
We recommend professional eco-friendly dry cleaning when needed. Remove the ring buttons before cleaning (they unhook from the metal ring of the button by rotating the fastener from the under side). Store them and don’t lose them!
The jacket is also hand washable, in cold water, if really needed. Hang dry only.
The 100% cotton jungle cloth is sanforized and some minimal shrinkage and ‘torquing’ will occur if washed.
Please refer to sizing chart below for raw/rinsed measurements (‘rinsed’ = soaked in cold water for 30mn, spin dry and hang dry). Original rinsing is optional and for reference only.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (Xlarge), 44 (XXlarge)
Please call 323-653-2014 or Email email@example.com to get yours while they last. Available from Mister Freedom® HQ in Los Angeles, and from our online store.
Thank you all 😉
(Note: The painted jacket in the photo was just a custom prototype we did for BUZZ RICKSON’S 20th Anniversary party. Production comes WITHOUT any graphics, of course)
As previously introduced for Spring 2013, “The Sportsman” concept is about the feeling of walking into an old pre-70’s Army/Navy surplus store, with its stacks of Americana bits and pieces, piles of New Old Stock ‘unfashionable’ clothes…
Production should be hitting Mister Freedom® store sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
This Fall 2013 line-up is the second volume of the “Sportsman” and introduces the following items, all made in the USA.
* “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans Lot.64:
13.75 Oz. right hand twill 3×1 selvedge denim
* “RANCH BLOUSE” Lot.64:
13.75 Oz. right hand twill 3×1 selvedge denim
* “CAMP ” Flannel Snap Shirt:
Two color ways of an original printed flannel fabric
* “CAMPUS CARDIGAN”
An original collaboration with famed Ohio Knitting Mills (Founded in 1927. Cleveland, Ohio)
Two color options
a) Natural wool yarn
b) Indigo dyed wool yarn
* “APPALOOSA” Denim Snap Shirt:
10 Oz. selvedge 2×1 denim
* Last but not least, an endeavor that made us feel that Shackelton had it easy, the “CAMPUS JACKET”:
Thank you for tuning in.
Happy Summer 😉