Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 3): The “FARO Sack Coat”

Faro-Sack-Coats-rig Mister Freedom® ©2012

Mister Freedom® MFSC Faro Sack Coat
Men of the Frontier Fall 2012

By now the card game of Faro has no secrets for you, right? You have also come to realize that winning at it might require cheating a bit. So here are some sleeves for your aces…

With its early origin on European tailors’ drafting tables as a jacket more practical, more comfortable and ‘easier’ to assemble than the traditional morning and frock coats, the sack coat made its way West and became widely popular in the America of the mid 1800’s. It suited the need for a coat that could pass as a semi formal garment as much as a work jacket.
Business, trail riding, saloon outings, church going and gambling could all be conveniently conducted wearing one same jacket. Just needed some dusting off on Sundays.
The old French term sacque seems to refer to back panels construction and/or a hip-length woman jacket… During the transition period, many styles have existed, as seen in period photography.

Crow Family, circa 1900 (National Archives) Quanah Parker, Comanche, circa 1890 (National Archives) Photo courtesy of Fort Sill National Historic Landmark and Museum

As always, nothing literal about our MFSC sack coat interpretation. For us, the concept came from wanting to combine an early riding coat (redingote) with a railroad type denim work jacket. Our Faro coat combines elements and construction details of both.
The overall appearance is that of a high buttoned notch lapel blazer. The front panel round cutaway are from an early ‘hybrid’ style popular in the late 1800’s (the less fabric to lift, the faster you’d get to your iron.) We use a four panel back, associated with frock coats, but no waist seam and no skirt/tail/back vent.

Like with our Faro waist coat, two fabric options: Dark navy blue midwale corduroy and ‘gun powder’ black cotton-linen HBT. The full lining is a “Troy Blanket” type, sandwiched in the flat felled seams (not floating.)

According to how you decide to pair the Faro sack coat, it can go fancy, casual or workwear. I have always liked the matching jacket/waistcoat look with mismatched trousers, but many combos work.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted as a one-time limited batch by Sugar Cane Co in Japan.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s coats and denim railroad type jackets.

FABRIC:
Two options
a) Deep rich navy blue color, 100% cotton corduroy, midwale (9 wale/inch), 11 Oz. Woven in Japan.
b) “Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan
INNER LINNING: Old school striped “Troy Blanket” (60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Soft touch. Woven in Japan.

DETAILS:
* High buttoned front style (five button front).
* Notch lapel, lining with back cotton sateen.
* Off set shoulder seams.
* Full body and sleeves “Troy Blanket Mills” soft lining.
* Flat felled seam construction. 100% cotton thread, tonal.
* One chest and two waist slanted welt pockets.
* Concealed sailcloth chest pocket.
* Reddish-brown corrozo buttons.
* Adjustable double button sleeve cuffs.
* Concealed MFSC woven label and Troy label on inside of front left panel.
* No exposed seams/ no overlock.

PACKAGING: For your future non-Monsanto grocery shopping experience we have packaged the Faro sack coat in an original MF® made raw selvedge denim draw string bag.

SHRINKAGE/SIZING: Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
We recommend an initial cold rinse (hand agitation) and line dry. The Faro coat fits true to size. I am a 38 and wear a 38 in this jacket.
Just as you wouldn’t boil a fancy suit, please treat with care or take to your environmentally friendly dry cleaner for future cleaning. Refer to sizing chart below for raw/rinsed/line dry approx. measurements.

Faro Sack Coat sizing chart

Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (xlarge), 44 (xxlarge)
Retail $799.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 2): The “FARO WAISTCOAT”

I look like a 300 lb gorilla from behind. I had not yet noticed that from the front, Mister Freedom® ©2012

FARO WAISTCOAT (Men of the Frontier MFSC FW2012)

Moving right along our journey West… Introducing the FARO WAISTCOAT, as the second installment of the “Men of the Frontier” MFSC Fall 2012 Collection, following its original Spring 2012 chapter. The first Fall 2012 installment was the Frontier Chinos.

This time we took our hombres away from the open range or work place, and into the dark oil lamp lit saloons of the early American Frontier. Gamblers’ halls and other fine whiskey pouring establishments were the main source of social entertainment for the hard living bunch at the edge of the Old World and the New.
In comes our Faro waistcoat… With its origin in 1700’s France, Faro became a popular single deck card game in the American West of the 1800’s. Until it was gradually supplanted by the game of Poker in the early 1910’s, Faro had been responsible for small fortunes lost and won, and a few gun fights.
Waistcoats were a permanent feature in old period photography, at times when looking your best in public involved tucking and buttoning up your shirt, along with wearing your britches in such a manner that only you knew the maker of your skivvies. A dress code seemed to often apply to most, whether coming off a horse, out of a mine, bank, jail… and no matter how wealthy or educated you were.

Lest I drift any further, let’s mention that the design of our Faro waistcoat is inspired by a late 1800’s vintage French silk velvet vest, high buttoned and narrow collar, that could have been sported by a card dealer, gambler or gunslinger in a lively 1905 saloon. We combined several elements of early vest patterns, outer and inner panels and piecing, and came up with this, if we may say so ourselves, elegant gentleman waistcoat.

As always, being an expert at losing your pay bucking the tiger or playing an extra on Deadwood is not required to wear our “Men of the Frontier” gear. Blending clothes tastefully is key to having your own non-contrived style, staying clear from the ‘costume’ look, although all that is of course very subjective.
If we don’t recommend pairing this Faro waistcoat with a track suit and Crocs, we leave it up to you to make it look good with denim jeans, cotton shirt, trousers from your existing wardrobe… The versatile collar can be folded for a deeper cut look. I often like wearing vests/jackets with only the top two buttons closed, a trick often seen in vintage photography, allowing easier reach to the trousers pockets.

Two fabric options are available (apples and oranges, impossible to compare.) Both textiles were woven in Japan, in limited batches, exclusively for MFSC®.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted as a one-time limited batch by Sugar Cane Co in Japan.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s gents’ waistcoats. High buttoned, small lapel, slim snug silhouette.

FABRIC:
FRONT PANEL: Two options
a) Deep rich navy blue color, 100% cotton corduroy, midwale (9 wale/inch), 11 Oz. Woven in Japan.
b) “Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan
BACK PANEL: Black all cotton sateen.
INNER LINNING:  Combination all cotton HBT (ochre color) exclusively woven for MFSC®, and indigo blue cotton poplin.

DETAILS:
* Intricate early waistcoat panel construction. Tailor made style.
* Back cinch strap with French New Old Stock (NOS) metal slide buckle.
* Eight button front, brown corrozo.
* Two front welt pockets
* 100% cotton thread tonal stitching.

PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original artwork. Please re-use.

SHRINKAGE/SIZING: Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
After shrinkage, both fabrics will shrink to the same specs.

Faro Waistcoat Sizing chart

We recommend an initial cold rinse and line dry. The vests fit true to size. I am a 38 and wear a 38 in the Faro vest.
Just as you wouldn’t boil a fancy suit, please treat with care or take to your environmentally friendly dry cleaner for future cleaning.

Available RAW/unwashed

Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (xlarge), 44 (xxlarge)
Retail $499.95

Call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.

Mister Freedom® MFSC Fall 2012 (Part 1): The “FRONTIER CHINOS”

Frontier-Chinos-back

MFSC Fall 2012 “FRONTIER CHINOS”, raw NOS denim

It is about that time of the year for the Fall chapter of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC “Men of the Frontier” Collection. The first installment for Fall 2012 is the “Frontier Chinos”.

We took some liberties with the concept story for this item and transported our characters in a somewhat later setting of life in the city. From the ranches, to the saloons, to any job that paid the bills… The back drop for the “Frontier Chinos” could be an old filling station on route 1, or the truck depot of a So Cal orange grove Company…

These trousers are a combination of several vintage work pants styles. The construction and pattern are inspired by 1930’s ~ 40’s light weight twill work chino uniforms rather than the traditional and widely replicated US military type chino pants.
However, the silhouette could be reminiscent of a late 50’s ‘Ivy League’ classic slacks type, with its slimmer legs, fitted seat and mid rise. You can always size up for a ‘roomier’ look, and use the cinch back strap. We wanted pants that didn’t ‘scream’ skinny or baggy, but just looked like… men’s pants.
We used two types of USA made New Old Stock (NOS) denim for the production of these trousers. The fit is consistent in both options, only the denim weight/feel differ. We opted for a ‘tailor shop’ look and left the bottom open, so you get to choose your preferred way of hemming them.
They are made in Los Angeles, USA. Cut & sewn by skilled workers in a clean and solid American factory.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC® pattern, influenced by vintage work type chino pants.

FABRIC: Two limited batches of raw NOS selvedge denim, made in USA.
* Type A: Dark indigo sanforized denim. White selvedge with black stripe. 3 by 1 twill, about 12 Oz. (more of a regular ‘five pocket’ type denim feel)
* Type B: Dark indigo sanforized denim. White selvedge with blue stripe. 2 by 1 twill, about 10 Oz. (more of a lighter USN denim dungarees feel)

DETAILS:
* Slender silhouette, mid rise.
* Metal ‘Deco’ riveted waist/fly buttons, gun metal color.
* Cinch back strap, with vintage French NOS metal slider buckle.
* Wide and slim belt loops combination.
* Open length, tailor style (I opted for a traditional 1 ½’’ trousers style cuff on my own pair.)
* Flat felled seam sit and inseam construction, selvedge leg side seam.
* Front slash pockets (with concealed selvedge opening fold), coin pocket, back welt pockets.
* Traditional 100% cotton unbleached ‘Sail Cloth’ pocket bags and lining.
* Black 100% cotton thread construction.
* Original MFSC® woven rayon label, concealed under the belt.
* Made in USA.

PACKAGING: For the USA, the Frontier Chinos come in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.

SIZING/SHRINKING/WASHING: The trousers come unwashed/raw. Because the denim is sanforized, the shrinkage is minimal in length/width (1%~2%).
They are true to size, meaning a tagged Waist 32 measures about 32’’ before and after rinse. If you are a 32’’ waist, you need a tagged 32. Do not boil/machine dry your pants to get them to fit: get your correct size instead.
The un-cuffed inseam is about 37 ½’’, plenty room for non NBA players to hem to their liking.
As always, we recommend an original cold soak for about 15-20 mn/spin cycle/line dry. The Sail cloth lining shrinks slightly more than the denim does therefore giving a nice ‘roping’ effect after dry.
As with all raw denim, indigo color bleeding/rubbing is expected in the early months of wearing.

Available Raw/Unwashed
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Retail: $ 289.95

Call 323)653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship almost everywhere internationally. Much obliged for the support, Friends.

Mister Freedom® MFSC “Men of the Frontier” Fall 2012 story board

MFSC Fall 2012 Men of the Frontier