Mister Freedom® MFSC spring 2012 (Part 7of7): “Gunslinger Denim Jumper”

Tom Gunslinger Jumper

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Gunslinger Denim Jumper, Indigo twill & Desert twill

Here is our seventh and final installment of this season journey, the denim “GUNSLINGER JUMPER”.
Borrowing again from both the American West and the Old World, we have put together elements of work-wear jackets, early sack coats and forgotten silhouettes.
This design borrows from our MF® Bourgeron Biribi we have been making in-house in very limited runs, using 1920’s~30’s new-old-stock textiles.  We haven’t specifically documented those, so there are no photos of all the rare fabrics we have used.  But locals who visit the store might see some ‘specimens’ on our racks, before they get snagged by design teams for inspiration…

For the MFSC production of the Gunslinger Jumper, we had two different denim twill exclusively woven in Japan, both inspired by vintage swatches from our archives. One indigo denim with indigo back, and one white back unbleached natural denim. Both were milled in limited quantities. Those fabrics are the same we used this season for the Gunslinger Pantaloons.
They are also made in Sunny California, our beautiful State.

Hat courtesy of our friends Nico and Gregory at WESTBROOK MAKER , talented purveyors of head accoutrements and fine sombreros from Venice, California.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MF® pattern, inspired by both the New and the Old World, mixing elements from European work wear and early American unlined cotton coats. Sack coat meets work coat.
FABRIC: The Gunslinger Jumper comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches.
a) MFSC Indigo denim twill: Dark Indigo warp x dark Indigo weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.4 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. A very rich dark indigo color, with purple hues, in and out.
b) MFSC Desert denim twill: Natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.8 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. This is not your typical off white twill. This fabric has a lot of texture, character, ring and slub.
DETAILS:
* Selvedged button placket facing, lower pocket hem and cuff facing.
* Round “A-1” type collar.
* Inner chest concealed pocket.
* Gun metal color donut button front.
* Cinch back strap. NOS metal sharp prong buckle (we have sadly run out of our stock of these, so this is one of the last time we use them for production)
* Flat felled seam construction with tonal 100% cotton thread.
* MFSC woven rayon labeling concealed inside left front patch pocket.
* Our trademark “Z stitch” sizing sail cloth patch.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the Jumper comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both denim options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Jumper will shrink to the tagged size.
The Desert denim (natural) shrinks ‘faster’ than the Indigo denim. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
Do not just wash your indigo gunslinger jumper in hope of getting instant patina, wear it instead.
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the double indigo dyed yarn, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO denim twill, on BOTH sides of the fabric. You WILL get some color rubbing on other garments and body. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash, and overtime, your jumper will get an amazing patina inside AND out.

See sizing chart below for raw and rinsed measurements (garments were cold soaked for about 20mn, no agitation, spin cycle then line dried)

Gunslinger Jumper sizing chart

Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC).

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes: 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail: $439.95

Call the HQ at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship almost everywhere internationally. Thank you mucho for your support 😉

Mister Freedom® MFSC American Sportswear Fall 2011 (Part 3): The “Ranch Blouse”

 

Ranch Blouse Box

The Made in USA “Ranch Blouse”NOS  is in… Yippee-ki-Yay 😉

Our MFSC Ranch Blouse is an homage to the denim jacket models that have been covering Americans’ backs for over 100 years.

No wheel reinvented here, just our humble version of that ‘closet must-have’.
Pull out the ol’ Texas Tuxedo or mix it with chinos, slacks… or our Speedway jeans… as you know it’s a pretty versatile garment.

Now, on production: To make things more challenging (why do easy when you can do complicated?) we decided to have the US prod of that jacket made of New Old Stock assorted denims from our archives. It did sound like a good idea at first 😉
Ranch Blouse NOS denim Swatches

Turns out, it has been a real challenge for the factory, and a real headache to control and process… No one has done it this way before (not boasting, just warning others!), and there is a reason for that: it’s brutal.
There is no way to describe the individual fabrics, nor to figure out the exact Oz. The above scan is an approximate reference for selvedge ID’s and shades of colors (although the scan makes some denim look more ‘black’ that in reality.) Ya ready?

SPECS:
PATTERN: MFSC pattern, an homage to the pioneer denim brands…
FABRICS: All 100% cotton NOS selvedge assorted raw denims, different origins, USA and Japan
Most options are indigo blue denim, but a few other colors are also available such as NOS Black (lighter Oz.), Brown, Stripe Twill (aka Rodeo Blouse)…
DETAILS:
* Original 30’s style ’round collar’, with under layer zigzag stitching.
* Double unbalanced front pocketing.
* Original Mister Freedom “oxydized” metal buttons.
* Cinch back strap, with NOS metal prong buckle.
* Front expansion pleats, when the belly just can’t take it anymore.
* Copper rivet pocket and cuffs reinforcement, backed by leather washer.
* Button panel fold showing original denim selvedge ID on the inside of the jacket.
PACKAGING: In the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Measurements in below chart are approximate because there are always slight variations in measuring a bulky surface.
There is ONE pattern grading for each size. Shrinkage is specific to each denim, and we will soon do rinse tests on groupings of 50+ yards and will try to post a % for some of the groupings. We anticipate an average shrinkage of most RAW denims from 3% to 8%, depending on water temperature, drying method and textiles specifics. Proportionally, there is often more noticeable shrinkage in length than width with RAW denim. Also, there will be natural minimal stretching back and forth with subsequent wear/rinse…
We recommend an original 10 mn cold soak, no agitation, spin dry, ‘wear to shape’ and line drying.

Ranch Blouse RAW sizing

FIT PHOTOS: I am wearing a size 38, on/off for about 6 months. One original rinse.
NOTE: The worn jacket in some of the shots is for reference only. This is NOT how the “Ranch Blouse” comes out of the box. It is only sold RAW/unwashed in the USA, so you can, not only start your own natural fading/wearing process, but do the right thing for our rivers by NOT purchasing factory chemically pre-distressed garments.

Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes: 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail: $299.95

Call the store at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last.
We ship internationally.
We thank you for your support.
You are the champions, my friends 😉

Mister Freedom® N.O.S. American Sportswear FALL 2011 Preview