Mister Freedom® “ROAMER” Car Coat, 14 Oz Wide-Wale Corduroy, mfsc FW2020 Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat, 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy.
FW2020 mfsc SURPLUS Catalog.
Made in Japan.

We released our first take on the 1910s-30s classic melton wool US Navy 10-button front P-Jacket back in 2008, as part of the original “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” line-up. That classic pattern has turned out to be quite a Mister Freedom® chameleon over the years, as we’ve played with its appearance many times.

If the initial SS2008 release was cut from a 14½ Oz. SC301 “Okinawa” fiber denim, later versions have included the 2010 “Midnight P-Jacket” and its 2015 “Caban Peacoat” clone in a 16 Oz. dark indigo warp x black weft “Midnight” denim, the 2016 “Waterfront Coat” in an elegant natural linen/cotton HBT fabric, and finally the rugged 2017 “MAC Jacket” in US Army OG107 cotton-back sateen.

The vintage military P-Jacket (aka Peacoat) pattern has been discussed at length with each release on this blog, with this post going quite deep down the rabbit’s hole, for those interested in historical fashion tidbits and our understanding of Costume History.

This FW2020 cru is another demilitarized take on US Navy peacoat early models, blending elements of civilian vintage Mackinaw jackets and mid-century car coats.
The shell fabric of the “ROAMER Car Coat” was inspired by that of an old 1930s French “Velour d’Amiens” work jacket from our archives, a grade of heavy wide-wale cotton corduroy (gros velour côtelé) typical of vintage European working class meets country gentlemen garb.
Competing with the British Lancashire textile industry at the time, French mills established around the City of Amiens had been producing this workwear corduroy grade since the 18th Century. If some still refer to heavy corduroy fabric as Manchester in some parts of Europe, “Velour d’Amiens” is the term that is familiar to French old-timers.
Cosserat, a French mill founded around 1793, and one of the last velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. With low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up on restructuring attempts, and genuine “Velour d’Amiens” is sadly no longer manufactured.
For those interested in vintage European workwear, the latest issue of Eric Maggiori‘s excellent AVANT publication features insightful and well-illustrated interviews of several major collectors, photos of rare pieces and tutorials.

As we had done for the MATTOCK Jacket, we reached out to our friends at Toyo Enterprise to source-out a fabric reminiscent in texture and feel of traditional “Amiens” workwear corduroy. The specific “oxidized” black color of the original 1930’s French hunting coat was expertly matched by a Japanese dyehouse, and the resulting color has that je-ne-sais-quoi that looks authentic and vintage.

For the lining, we went with an American classic, a warm and soft wool blend insulating fabric sometimes referred to as “canteen blanket”, “Troy blanket”, or “Alaska blanket”. It is our first time featuring this particular olive green/grey dominant stripe blanket pattern.

The traditional double pocketing of the lining has been updated for the 21st Century by adjusting the size of the lower “cigarette pocket” to fit the average smart phone, rather than a pack of Lucky Strike. The combination of both old school low-tech fabrics gives the ROAMER an average resistance to cold, making it quite ideal during mid-seasons in temperate climates.
The choice of leather piping pocket openings and arrowhead pocket stops is a feature found on sought-after early Mackinaw coats. The black tea-core leather trim will age gracefully over time with normal wear.
For the double-breasted front closure, we opted for tonal classic tailoring corozo wood buttons. A discreet naval reference was kept, with the small foul anchor button holding the removable chin strap under the collar.

The Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by 1910’s -1930’s US Navy and US Coast Guard sailor wool peacoats of the early 10-button pattern, 1930’s-40’s vintage mackinaw-type outdoor coats, and blending New World and Old World flavors.

FABRIC
Shell: Heavy 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy, “vintage” black color, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Woven in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Early US Navy peacoat double-breasted 10-button pattern.
* Two ‘hand warmer’ slash welt pockets, two hip pockets with flaps, all lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy.
* Inside lining chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized into an iPhone-size pocket).
* Black tea-core leather piping on pocket opening and arrowhead reinforcement pocket stops.
* Vintage style stripe “Troy” blanket full lining.
* Removable chin strap (displaying either shell or lining fabric when left dangling, or fully-concealed when buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* Rear vent.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Designed in California.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® ROAMER Car Coat comes ready-to-wear and does not require any pre-treatment or soaking.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets. If you are a 38 in our Ranch Blouse or Campus pattern (granted they are pears and apples), you are most-likely a 38 in the ROAMER.
I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit.  I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. Do consider the thickness of the shell/lining combo when comparing these measurements to those of a jacket of a similar style that fits you well.

CARE:
Professional dry clean ONLY, from your local eco-friendly facility.

Available Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green, FW2019 mfsc Sportsman Catalog, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

Some of the readers might be familiar with our SPEEDWAYS pattern. Originally released in cream and black cotton piqué under the “Speedway Piqué Jeans” moniker during Fall 2011, a modified version (sans buckle-back and with a slightly more tapered leg) made it to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog in 2015, as the Malibu’s, offered in light indigo ‘sea denim’ and wheat color ‘sand denim’.
The SPEEDWAYS made a come back in black in 2017, flashing a fancy NOS matte finish coated denim.
Our MF® tribute to late 50’s/early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2019, this time with a New Old Stock corduroy fabric, in a vintage moss green color. This is the original color of the fabric as we found it, and it has a definite sixties vibe.

The combination of slim leg, extended waistband tab with concealed snaps, and belt loops substituted by adjustable side tabs, seem to have been a 1960’s staple of California Cool, and a wardrobe favorite for iconic actors such as McQueen (see the familiar William Claxton early 1960’s Palm Spring photo sessions.) An early corduroy version of this pant style, albeit with a wider leg , can be seen in the steamy “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” (1958), fashionably sported by another voguish man, Hollywood and racetrack legend Paul Newman.

If you are after non-five pocket casual jeans with a vintage slim leg, and appreciate the streamlined waistband look without belt loops, the SPEEDWAYS could be the ticket. They are among my favorite go-to trousers pattern of the MF® mfsc catalog, and I rarely travel without throwing a pair in my suitcase.

The mfsc SPEEDWAYS Cords are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock 100% cotton corduroy, mid-wale, sixties-vibe moss green color.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers.
* Waistband snap tab à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps.
* Streamlined waistband sans belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: fancy woven dobby stripes.
* Discreet denim-like ‘selvedge’ tape tab on waistband.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Woven rayon MF® mfsc “Sportsman” label on inside waistband.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The SPEEDWAYS CORDS come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine, cold soak for about 30~40mn, spin dry, hang dry.
These are true to size, with a somewhat generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches), and will settle to the tagged size following the above process.

I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc pants, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. According to waistline fluctuations, I cinch one or both side tabs, which keeps the pants up.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch, an easy operation for your local alteration place. As a matter of personal preference with this Speedways pattern, I opted for the sixties-vibe “flood” look with no trousers break. To each his own, but we do not recommend cuffing these with jeans rolls.
When deciding which length works for you before alteration, especially if you are planning to heat-dry these in the future, consider the potential extra shrinkage of the leg seams (due to the 100% cotton thread caballo stitching) which will bunch the fabric and pull-up the inseam noticeably.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.

CARE:
Launder when necessary. These are low maintenance but should be turned inside-out to avoid potential fabric marbling.
Wash in cold water, gentle cycle, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Waist 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38.

Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

 

 

 

Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, Printed Corduroy, mfsc “Surplus” FW 2017, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, printed corduroy.
“Surplus” catalog mfsc FW 2017.
Made in Japan.

This is the fourth addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. The MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog.

For the office anecdote-inclined, we used to refer to this pattern as the ‘Dick Shirt’ during R&D, but eventually settled on ‘Nixon’ for the official release, for obvious reasons.

The pattern of our ‘Nixon’ shirt is largely inspired by an original 1950’s vintage “Roomy Richard” chambray work shirt, a now-defunct American workwear label established in the late 1920’s. The main appeal of that vintage piece was for us the tricky double-layer ‘cigarette’ chest pocket pattern, somewhat reminiscent of the famous Big Yank pocket, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. That  pocket was designed to keep the worker’s cigarette pack dry.

Original 1940’s vintage “Roomy Richard” work shirt packaging.

If most of us today know better than to donate towards the cause of tobacco companies by purchasing their wares, the practical little pocket can still be used as double storage for, say, both an iPhone and a public transportation ticket/smart card.
Beside this fancy characteristic, our Nixon shirt features a chin-strap, triple stitch construction and side gussets, all classic attributes of old-school vintage work shirts.

The fabric we opted for is a 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern typical of 1940’s-1950’s vintage outdoor gear, mimicking the appearance of woven checks. Because of the limited bleed-through printing, the reverse of the fabric displays the solid color of the base fabric, not unlike our Sportsman printed Camp Flannel Shirt from 2013. This printed corduroy was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan, and is released for Fall 2017 in two color options, red plaid and blue plaid.

The Nixon Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
A 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern. Milled and printed in Japan.
Two color options, blue and red.

DETAILS:
* A pattern inspired by a 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray, and other vintage work shirts.
* Trim silhouette.
* Fancy double-layer left chest pocket, known as “cigarette pocket”.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Chin strap, featuring vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons.
* Triple stitch construction.
* Side gussets.
* Tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® printed corduroy Nixon Shirt comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial cold soak/rinse and line dry. The shirt will shrink to tagged size. This garment is true-to-size. I wear a Medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting. The fit is quite trim, with a tapered waist for a slim silhouette.
Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry.

CARE:
Launder when needed. Machine-wash on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent, line dry.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Retail: $329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Wheat Jeans, Ranch Blouse and Speedways, Mister Freedom® Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014 Ranch Blouse

Mister Freedom Sportsman 2014 Speedways

Ranch Blouse & Speedways: Piqué Bedford Cord
“The Sportsman” mfsc Spring 2014

 

Piqué fabrics are woven on dobby looms giving the finished textile its small geometrical repeat pattern designs.
The French word piqué refers to needle work, as in quilting.

Clouseau

Yes, yes. So it iz be-lieved

One of my favorite of the piqué family as always been the “Bedford Cord”, thought to have originated in New Bedford, Massachusetts, during the golden age of its textile industry, counting some 70 mills around 1920. 18 are still operating today.
Bedford cord fabric is characterized by vertical woven ridges on the face, and tiny ‘beehive’ pattern on the reverse.

In the late 1950’s off-white relaxed fit slacks made their way to the Ivy League scene, often featuring cinch-back or side straps.
By the mid-1960’s, slim light colored jeans had become quite popular with young adults, as often displayed in the ranks of 18 to 24 year-old recruits getting schooled in the Art of War before heading out to Vietnam.

Jim Vestal 1966 Jim Vestal 1966

On campuses, ‘Wheat jeans’ on the slim side had then out-fashioned the slightly darker and wider cut khaki chinos in the heart of many preps.
In Hollywood, the usual suspects seem to have adopted the ‘wheat jeans’ style early on, whether in five-pocket cuts, twills, cords or sateen, ‘Sta-Prest’ styles or chino patterns…
Our man James ‘Flint’ Coburn swore by them, on and off screen it seems. McQueen favored a clean ‘Sansabelt’ type, with concealed snap waist tab, part of the inspiration behind our Speedways jeans.
Most brands went full throttle on the craze, suggesting the matching jacket and pants, as in period HD Lee or Levi’s ads.

Bruce Lee Coburn 1961 Ferrari Dean-Martin-James-Coburn-Murderers-Row 1966 McQueen William Claxton Sansabelt FAKE ad Newman Mark Kauffman 1967 Lee Westerner 1959

After a fierce meetings at Mister Freedom®, we unanimously decided the matching wheat jacket/pants thing was not necessarily a good idea this year either.
So we immediately added the Ranch Blouse and Speedways piqué set to the Sportsman catalog for Spring 2014.

As introduced with our Uncle Sam issue, the piqué Ranch Blouse features the embossed MF® brass buttons, replacing our previous ‘silver’ type.
The modified version of our original 2011 Speedway Jeans and ‘wheat’ Ranch Blouse come in a new Bedford cord fabric. The color we selected for this 10 Oz. Sportsman Edition piqué is slightly warmer (slightly more beige) than our original Speedway piqué ( slightly more grey). They still both appear off-white, referred to as ‘wheat’ by 1960’s marketing departments.

On Style: The boldest will have no fear in the challenging statement of the mighty Leisure Suit when worn as a set, but we do suggest self-control with the wheat-on-wheat sandwich. In most situations, mixing might be a better option. Although wheat jeans are easier to incorporate in one’s wardrobe than is commonly thought, they remain an ‘acquired taste’, so don’t force yourself if you don’t feel it.
We never recommend buying garments you won’t wear, nor do we guarantee success around the pool with purchase.

Derek Flint 1966

Wheat jeans, Derek Flint approved since 1966. Results may vary.

The Ranch Blouse and Sportsman Speedways are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

RANCH BLOUSE, Piqué Bedford Cord Edition


PATTERN:
 An original mfsc pattern, influenced by early denim ‘trucker’ type jackets.

FABRIC: 10 Oz. off-white Piqué Bedford Cord, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Under collar and under pocket flap lining: New Old Stock woven plaid fabric, blue/red check, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Modified collar pattern.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Original MF® lower chest pocketing, tonal “M” stitching.
* Pleated front with MF® original ‘dart’ stitching.
* NOS woven plaid collar/pocket flap facing.
* Brass cast MF® branded rivet buttons.
* Buckle back, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer back.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed cotton label (from our Buckaroos.)
* Made in USA

SIZING/WASHING:
Although only offered un-washed the piqué fabric takes its full beauty after the first rinse/dry cycle. It gains in texture,  with a nice crispy vintage feel. We recommend an original gentle cycle in cold water, and machine tumble dry. If the ensuing wrinkles bother you don’t let them.
WARNING: Some slight ‘crocking’ (color transfer) might happen during the first few washes, from the leather washers of the copper rivets, making somewhat of a ‘rust’ stain on the off-white piqué fabric. This is not permanent and will fade after further washing/drying cycles. DO NOT BOIL, as in the simple equation: (leather) + (boiling water) = soup.

For reasons familiar only to those well versed in crystal ball reading, our piqué Ranch Blouse fits a bit larger than the previous Lot.64 Ranch Blouse. JD and I went for a tight 36 in the piqué but wear a 38 in the denim Lot.64 version.
If you are in between sizes we recommend sizing down. If you do not like the shorter/cropped look of old trucker denim jackets however, staying with the same size will work as well.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Ranch Blouse Pique Mister Freedom

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Sizes
34
 X-small
36
 Small
38
 Medium
40
 Large
42
 X-Large
Retail $359.95

 

SPORTSMAN SPEEDWAY, Piqué Bedford Cord

 

PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slimmer silhouette (not skinny though)

FABRIC: 10 Oz. off-white Piqué Bedford Cord, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Extended tab waist band, double concealed snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Functional cinch back strap to adjust waist (up to 2 inches adjustment.)
* Lapseam chainstitch leg construction, both outside and inside seams.
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 100% cotton stripe blue/white twill.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* “M” stitched back pockets.
* Inside waistband Sportsman woven label.
* Selvedge tape red/white/blue tab on waistband.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.

SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
Although only offered un-washed the piqué fabric takes its full beauty after the first rinse/dry cycle. It gains in texture,  with a nice crispy vintage feel. We recommend an original gentle cycle in cold water, and line dry for a crispy vintage feel.
WARNING: Please note that some light crocking (bluish color transfer) will occur during the first wash cycles, due to the blue color of the striped pocket bags NOS fabric. This will fade with further washes and is not permanent. Using an electric/gas dryer instead of line-dry will increase the crocking slightly.

Minimal waist shrinkage with this pique fabric, shrinks mostly in length (about one inch)
I am a W32 in the Californian Lot.64 Blue Jeans and wear a Waist 32 in the Speedway, a bit cinched in the back to accommodate my girly figure. Both fits are somewhat similar.
The bottom hems are not chain-stitched, making shortening the jeans an easy alteration with a single needle machine. Measuring it right to your liking being the most challenging task.
My  personal preference tends towards a slight ‘high water’/flood look.

Please refer to chart below for measurements.

Speedway Pique

Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes

W28 × L33
W29 x L33
W30 × L33
W31 × L33
W32 × L33
W33 x L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L33
W38 × L33
Retail $279.95

Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com

Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂

 

 

Mister Freedom® MFSC American Sportswear Fall 2011 (Part 2): Speedway Piqué Jeans

What a poser

The second installment of Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR” Collection is in: Introducing the SPEEDWAY pique, made in USA.

Often mistaken for chinos/khakis on those late 50’s~60’s off set photos of the Hollywood cool cats, here is Mister Freedom®’s interpretation of those ‘off white jeans’.
For an old school look, we don’t recommend the modern “stacking” effect at the ankle. Length can easily be shorten (by your favorite local tailor) since we used a single stitch for the bottom hem, not chainstitch.
McQueen 1966 (Twentieth Century Fox) Newman Motorcycle

SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slimmer silhouette (NOT skinnies/girl friend’s jeans though…)
FABRIC: All cotton piqué (bedford cord), 10 Oz. Fabric milled in Japan.
Two colour option: Cream and Black
DETAILS:
* Double snap tab waist band, concealed snaps. No belt loops
* Functional cinch back strap to adjust waist (up to 2 1/2  inches adjustment)
* Double lapseam chainstitch leg construction (outer and inner seam.)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 1960’s all cotton stripe ticking twill
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”
* “M” stitched back pockets
* 100% cotton tonal thread stitching
SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
Minimal waist shrinkage of this pique fabric, shrinks mostly in length (about one inch)
I am between a 31~32 and wear a Waist 32 in the Speedway, a bit cinched in the back. I have washed my speedways, regular cycle and machine dried them before original wear.
Measurements in chart below are to the best of our abilities, but vill vary according to rinse/drying method/subsequent wear… and whoever takes them!

Speedway Sizing Chart

Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Available RAW/unwashed
Colour: Cream or Black
Tagged Sizes
28×33, 29x33, 30×33, 31×33, 32×33, 33x33, 34×33, 36×33, 38×33
Retail $279.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.