Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.44R, 13 Oz. selvedge denim twill, NOS Cone Mills, made in USA.

The “vintage” silhouettes of the Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans denim family.

Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.44R (reissue)
13 Oz. selvedge denim twill, NOS Cone Mills.
mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

The Californian LOT.44 Blue Jean is our classic 1940’s-50’s silhouette, the widest fit of our straight leg five-pocket denim family.

Tasteful 2012 promotion material.

This special run revives the original popular pattern of the the LOT.44, with its old-school buckle back, higher rise and full leg. The “R” stands for “reissue”, as the LOT.44R are cut in one type of NOS denim, not a mixed bag of 37 twills as initially released back in 2011.
The New Old Stock fabric of the LOT.44R was milled by famed and now-defunct Cone Mills of Greensboro, N.C., USA. This handsome indigo denim twill is sanforized (will not shrink), and its selvedge ID is white with a red stripe .
The Californian LOT.44R were manufactured around 2016, and were, by oversight, never documented on the MF® blog, nor made available online. The webstore’s Californian section has now been updated with limited sizing of the LOT.44R..

The Mister Freedom® Lot.44R are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Note: This release does not include the original MF® cardboard box packaging.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo twill denim, white with red stripe selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: A fancy NOS 100% cotton herringbone twill, gunpowder grey color.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.

* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Buckle-back, aka cinch-back.
* New Old Stock fancy HBT cotton fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original yellow “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Lined rear pockets (NOS grey HBT cotton.)
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Packaging-free.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
This NOS denim is sanforized, i.e. the LOT.44R Californian will not shrink after the initial recommended 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
They are true-to size, and a tagged W32 measures approximately 32 inches.

The LOT.44R feature a straight leg with a generous silhouette and a higher rise, with a definite 1940’s-50’s “period vibe”.

NOTE: We measure the waist of our jeans by doing the following:
1) Fasten the top waist button.
2) Pinch both ends of the folded waistband firmly, pulling reasonably so that front rise and back rise align and lay flat.
3) Position the straight folded waistband on a (fixed) wooden measuring stick (cloth tape tends to stretch overtime, giving wrong measurements.)
4) Read the measurement then double it.
Ex: a 16 inches measurement across the waistband becomes a Waist 32.

Refer to our sizing chart for raw/cold soaked measurements.

The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed.
Available tagged Sizes:
W30 × L34
W31 × L36
W32 × L36
W33 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36

Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Note: These are not issued with the original MF® cardboard box.

Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® ROUGHRIDER Blouse, Organic NOS 15.5 Oz. Cone Mills selvedge denim twill, Fall 2018, Made in USA.

The ROUGHRIDER Blouse, the latest Mike Foxtrot denim jacket.

Proper compañero of the Mister Freedom® Roughrider, the MF® Californian Lot.64 OG, NOS Organic Cone Mills denim twill (2018), for a touch of Canadian elegance.

Mister Freedom® ROUGHRIDER Blouse, NOS Organic 15.5 Oz.Cone Mills selvedge indigo denim twill.
Fall 2018 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

This year, we decided to welcome a new player in the happy family of MF® denim jackets. We’re calling it the ROUGHRIDER, because we’re loco like that.

This all-original MF® jacket pattern should have chronologically been introduced after our Ranch Blouse model (considered a “type I” trucker jacket, initially released in 2011) and before the Cowboy Jacket (considered a “type III”, initially released in 2015). The ROUGHRIDER is indeed a modified version of our classic Ranch Blouse, and the harbinger of the Cowboy Jacket, but we’ve been known to time-travel a bit, through our eclectic capsule collections.
Novelty-wise, don’t alert HypeBeast just yet, as the MF® Design Dept. got lazy as a dodo on this one. We basically grabbed the old school Ranch Blouse pattern, slapped on an extra pocket flap, borrowed the collar shape from Uncle Sam, and threw in a left-over lining for good measure.

For this first iteration of the ROUGHRIDER however, the jacket gets a royal treat: the final precious yardage of New Old Stock Cone 15.5 Oz organic denim twill, a remarquable textile achievement courtesy of the now-defunct Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C. We have previously featured this rare and amazing denim on a version of the MF® Californian Blue Jeans, the Lot.64 OG released in the Spring of 2018, for those interested in adding a touch of perfectly-matching and eye-soothing Canadian elegance to their wardrobe.

For more background on this very special denim, here is a quote from our friend Chip at Cone Denim, who reached-out early this year to give us some insightful technical intel. Chip knows a thing or two about this organic indigo denim, as he personally helped develop it at the time:
“We (Cone Denim) partnered with Stony Creek Colors in Tennessee who are working with Tobacco farmers to change their crops into indigo plant.
This is how the fabric gets to be such a vibrant blue, and is completely unique from any other dye we have ever run in the past.
It truly is one of the greatest,  and most sustainable, selvedges we put out: Texas organic cotton, America indigo plant dye, all woven here in the US.”

All this might sound like re-hashed fashions for the fiercest keyboard cowboy, but the result is kinda… f’in stellar, if we can say so ourselves. With its beautiful hue of indigo, rare denim, traditional yet original pattern, that ROUGHRIDER number is a darn good-looking jacket, versatile, ethically made, and guaranteed to beautify with wear.

The Mister Freedom® ROUGHRIDER Blouse is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 15.5 Oz. indigo twill denim, Organic cotton, solid white selvedge ID.
Lining: Soft-hand 100% cotton brushed flannel with a 1940’s-50’s-inspired vibrant plaid pattern, discharge-printed. Fabric milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage denim “trucker” type jackets, and previously-released Mister Freedom® versions.
* Modified collar pattern, early American work blouse style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* Contrast printed flannel pocket flap facing.
* Contrast 10 Oz. “Okinawa 301” collar facing.
* Metal cast MF® branded buttons, ‘oxidized’ brass.
* Buckle back, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked.
* Combination yellow/orange 100% cotton stitching.
* Original mfsc debossed veg-tan leather patch.
* Made in USA.

SIZING FIT:
The MF® ROUGHRIDER comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry. The pattern of the ROUGHRIDER has been adjusted to take into account the extra layer of the lining.
I wear my Ranch Blouse size in the ROUGHRIDER, a comfortable 38 (cold-soaked/hung dry), as opposed to a slim 36 in the Cowboy Jacket pattern. Fit photo shows a cardboard-like Roughrider Blouse size 38, fresh-out of the cold soak/line dry process.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).


DENIM CARE:
Wash your ROUGHRIDER Blouse when necessary.
We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the indigo denim warp side.
Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim garment.
Just enjoy the journey and the satisfaction of wearing an ethically-made garment. Your Mister Freedom® denim jacket will age gracefully, and to your own beat.

Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

 

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN indigo blue jeans, Lot.64 OG (Organic cotton), NOS 15.5 Oz. Cone Mills selvedge denim twill, Spring 2018, Made in USA.

Californian blue jeans Lot.64OG, worn & washed (about 4-month intermitent wear.)

Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.64 OG , Organic cotton, NOS 15.5 Oz.Cone Mills selvedge denim twill.
Spring 2018 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

If you were planning on adding a pair of jeans to your wardrobe menu, here is an “organic” version of our Californian, specifically designed for raw foodies.
?

Our MF® Californian blue jeans Lot.64 OG are cut from an older stock of premium denim from Cone Mills, and feature… ORGANIC cotton!
Not that anything about the process of making denim apparel usually epitomizes much of an eco-friendly gesture from us and the ever-booming international Denim Industry. In 2018, well over one billion pairs of blue jeans will likely change hands on the blue planet. This unrestrained consumerism means extensive farming of genetically-modified cotton (largely China and India), high water consumption of indigo-dyeing and yarn-bleaching inherent to milling denim, unnecessary chemical ’vintage’ washes favored by many contemporary labels to boost sales, cleverly-planned obsolescence of disposable fast-fashion jeans with convincing “bargain” price tags, etc…
As regular purveyors of selvedge denim wearables and members of this fine Industry, we, at Mister Freedom®, are well aware that
 featuring “organic denim” for Spring 2018 only buys us a temporary good conscience. The most we will claim is a determination to stick to environmentally-conscious countries for milling, sourcing and manufacturing denim, such as USA and Japan.

In any case, some time before hearing the sad news of the shutting down of Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C., we secured a nice cargo of New Old Stock Cone 15.5 Oz organic denim. With an attractive raw indigo hue somewhat reminiscent of the color of rigid 501 Levi’s® one could pick-up from Army/Navy surplus stores in the 1970’s-80’s, this fabric was a perfect candidate for our Californian blue jeans family, the humble Mister Freedom® contribution to the crowded world of five-pocket jeans.

After road-testing an early proto, a few months of normal wear and a few washes later, the denim evo showed similarities with the “Malibu” denim we used on the Spring 2017 Conductor JacketSpeedways, etc… No high contrast fading or fast indigo abrasion (unlike the sugar cane fiber “Okinawa” denim of the Lot.64 BB), no impressive Friday-special honeycombs, but a beautiful and uncommon indigo blue, a blessing for the denim-on-denim creative connoisseur who loves mixing-up his indigoes.

Feb 20, 2018 UPDATE: We received a kind and insightful email from our friend Chip at Cone Denim giving us the actual background of this specific fabric. Chip knows a thing or two about this organic indigo denim, as he personally developed it at the time:
“We (Cone Denim) partnered with Stony Creek Colors in Tennessee who are working with Tobacco farmers to change their crops into indigo plant.
This is how the fabric gets to be such a vibrant blue, and is completely unique from any other dye we have ever run in the past.
It truly is one of the greatest,  and most sustainable, selvedges we put out: Texas organic cotton, America indigo plant dye, all woven here in the US.”

The pocket bag fabric we opted for is an old stock of sturdy 100% cotton woven plaid with warm saffron/yellow tones, enhanced by the most flamboyant Californian paper flasher to date, featuring an enchanting sunset in Venice Beach, California, hotter than a 1970’s Playboy® magazine fashion ad.

For the vintage packaging collector, here is a recap of the colorful Mister Freedom® five-pocket blue jeans pocket flashers released in the past 8 years:
Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim
Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.

 

The Mister Freedom® Lot.64 OG are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 15.5 Oz. indigo twill denim, Organic cotton, solid white selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags:
NOS 100% cotton woven plaid fabric, saffron/yellow check pattern.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* New Old Stock woven plaid fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (Venice Beach, CA., enchanting sunset edition).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.64 OG (organic cotton) blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process. Note that this specific denim is pretty much sanforized and will not move much.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing: cold soak for about 30mn/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
The word is to go for your usual mfsc (Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane) waist size. I opted for a Waist 32 in the Lot.64OG, my usual size in the MF® Californian family.
As with all denim twills, slight back-and-forth shrinkage/stretching will occur for a while, fluctuating according to the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry, ie. minimal shrinkage.)

 

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018