Mister Freedom® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas, Sportsman Catalog mfsc Fall 2018, Made in USA.

MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas.
Sportsman Catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA.

The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog in the Spring of 2017.

During the early days of R&D, our aim was a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.

The original release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim. It was followed by a Spring 2018 version cut from a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe twill.

For this third iteration, we developed a brown cotton duck canvas inspired by vintage specimens of  French 1930’s – 1950’s outdoor and military garments. Similar yet distinct from early US duck canvases typical of classic American hunting gear (and definitely different from the average modern duck canvas), our fabric features a crispy selvedge canvas dyed in the classic French “cachou” color.

Cachou” is a vegetable extract that the French are found of, particularly in the form of licorice candies. In Southern France, locals often reach an emotional climax when managing to share one of these little black mints with a tourist keen on fully embracing the culture. The immediate gagging grimace on the first-timer is a prized reward for the Frenchman. Cachou mints are an acquired taste.
For our local patrons, free cachou tasting at the MF® HQ, 11-6 daily.

Rich in tanins and pigments, the cachou extract has been traditionally used for dyeing ship sails and other textiles since the 1830’s. As a pigment, it produces a range of rich and warm reddish brown hue, a particular color familiar to the collector of French vintage military accoutrements, old forest ranger workwear, traditional hunting gear, etc…

With the invaluable help of our friends and textile experts at Toyo Enterprises, we managed to replicate this cachou color, along with its beautiful fading quality. The base fabric is a dry hand tightly-woven 100% cotton selvedge canvas, milled and dyed in Japan.

We paired our duck conductor with a classic corduroy collar, same corduroy grade used as pocket warmer on vintage USN peacoats. For a handsome concealed contrast, we selected an indigo/white NOS woven check twill for pocket facing, visible on the inside chest pocket and as pocket lining.

The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Body: Sturdy and crispy 100% cotton duck canvas, selvedge, brown ‘cachou’ color, milled and dyed in Japan.
Collar Facing: Amber brown wide whale cotton corduroy.
Pocket Facing: NOS indigo/white woven check twill

DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away design.
* Double duty chest pocketing, with watch compartment on left side.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS indigo/white woven check twill.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket.
* Original Mister Freedom® oxidized brass shank buttons.
* Collar chin strap secured with oxidized black donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Copper riveted cuff openings.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
Following this initial routine, the garment will stiffen when dry, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.

I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash garment inside out to avoid marbling, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Due to the specific nature of the garment dye, the cachou canvas will gradually fade overtime with normal wear and repeat washing. For a natural patina, do not try to overwash but enjoy instead wearing your garment.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® MFSC spring 2012 (Part 5): “Britches Chaparral”

MFSC Britches Chaparral Waist2

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Britches Chaparral, Brown and Indigo Cotton/linen canvas.

Movin’ on, friends…

Here is our fifth installment of our “Men of the Frontier” journey, the cotton-linen canvas  “BRITCHES CHAPARRAL”.
Again, borrowing from both the American West and the Old World, we have combined European influenced fabrics with 30’s-40’s slacks and “chino” American style trousers.
The fabric options are the same than our “Chaparral Blouse”: two Cotton-Linen plain weave selvedge canvases, Indigo dyed and “cachou” brown.

A quite ‘simple’ trousers pattern for those britches, but loaded with small details, and made with fabrics that will wear very nicely and develop interesting character and patina.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s-1940’s work type trousers and cotton slacks. Mid/high rise.
FABRIC: The Chaparral Britches come in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
DETAILS:
* Selvedge outer leg seam.
* Slash type front pockets, with inner selvedge angled stitched fold.
* Gun metal color donut button fly with double button waist.
* Two slash rear pockets, with arrowhead type button flaps.
* Watch/coin pocket
* Trousers type pocket bag construction and lining, with 100% cotton tight weave sateen fabric, beige color.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching
* Flat felled seam seat construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the BRITCHES CHAPARRAL come in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
The britches come UNWASHED, the material is raw, so shrinkage is expected. With an initial cold soak and line dry, both fabrics will shrink differently, but will reach TAGGED size down the line. Note that cotton-linen textiles shrink and stretch yoyo style with wear and wash.
An additional 1.5 inch can be let out from the bottom cuff if needed (single stitch machine.)
Note on fit: You’ll notice a different fit and silhouette with the two options on the photos. I am around a waist 31 usually, and had to go with a tagged waist 32 with both the Indigo and Brown britches. My brown pair has been cold washed (inside out to avoid marbling), line dried. I also tapered the leg by taking in the outer leg seam by about 1.5cm. My Indigo pair was just cold rinsed, line dried, no alteration, and still has some shrinkage due. Because I do not want to mess with the rich and deep Indigo color, I’ll wear them this way for a while. I don’t mind a bit looser fit for the summer with those. Rolled up with espadrilles should do the trick for our California weather…

See chart below for approximate measurements of raw vs. cold soaked/line dried. (we didn’t ‘pull’ on the fabric for measurements, and because the Indigo cotton/linen wrinkles more, there are slight differences). Due to very limited stock we couldn’t rinse/test all sizes/options.

MFSC Britches Chaparral sizing Chart

DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the indigo dye, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO canvas option BRITCHES CHAPARRAL. You WILL get some color rubbing if you wear a light color shirt tucked in. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash. Please use minimal mild AND environment friendly detergent.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Tagged Sizes (= will shrink to sizes):
W28 × L33
W30 × L33
W32 × L33
W34
× L33
W36 × L34
W38 × L34
RETAIL: $549.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship ALMOST everywhere internationally. We thank you for your support.