Mister Freedom® mfsc BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls, “Okinawa 301” denim edition. FW2018Sportsman Catalog. Made in USA.
The term ‘buckaroo’ has its commonly agreed-on origin in the late 1800s days of the American Frontier, when Spanish settlers and bad hombres referred to cowboys and ranch hands as vaqueros, vaca meaning cow in the Spanish language, with the v pronounced close to a b. The anglicized version and phonetic spelling caught on.
Sometime in 2012, we introduced a new blue jeans pattern, the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc “BUCKAROOS” Waist Overalls, initially issued in two distinct NOS denim twills.
These dungarees were a departure from the average five-pocket jeans, and featured an intricate rear cinch strap pattern. This ‘buckle-back’ style was not lifted from any vintage sample, but came out of the drawing table of our Los Angeles atelier, and trial & error prototype making. (Someone did mention having seen a similar pattern on a vintage catalog that I’m not aware of. That wouldn’t be surprising as nihil novi sub sole seems to apply to clothing design.)
We matched our original back yoke/strap construction with a ‘western’ type front pockets pattern. The folded flap buttons up to the pocket yoke, a feature that could come in handy when horseback riding or sitting on a bouncy old truck bench seat, to prevent the content of pockets from spilling out. There are many examples of this type of front pocket construction on western slacks, although it is uncommon on denim dungarees besides a rare iconic model made by HeadLight in the 30’s~40’s.
By popular demand, the MF® Bucks’ are making a comeback for Fall 2018. We raided Sugar Cane Co’s vault of exclusive denim twills, and secured an old mfsc favorite, the mighty “Okinawa 301”, a ‘hairy’ 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, blend of 20% sugarcane fibers and 80% cotton, with a white/green line selvedge ID.
This “Okinawa” denim has enviable fading potential and will progressively develop a desirable patina overtime, with normal wear/wash cycles.
For more ramblings relating to design tidbits, hot-branding the leather patch and b/w photography, refer to the original buckaroos post, as we’re making ‘em just the way we used to.
The MF® BUCKAROOS Waist Overalls are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from selvedge denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS: PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by western slacks, vintage denim dungarees and old imagery. FABRIC: “Okinawa 301”, 16.25 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. This fabric is exclusive to Toyo Enterprises. Pocket bags: Vintage NOS cotton twill, navy blue color, sturdy workwear fabric, origin France.
DETAILS: * ‘Old West’ silhouette, revisited. * Original front pocket style with folding buttoned flap. Reinforcement un-marked copper riveting. * Original MFSC upper curved cinch back strap, sandwiched in the back yoke, riveted. * Wider rear belt loops (to slide the cinch on top or under the belt loop.) * Original MF® “Californian” shank metal buttons, ‘old stock’ silver finish. * Concealed rivets on back pockets with original “M” stitch and slightly curved opening. * Original double labeling. One printed cloth label with original artwork mounted during construction, partially superimposed by a leather patch with “MF” hot branding. * All 100% cotton color thread. We are using an original MFSC combination of 12 types of gauge/color thread per pair. Main colors are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast. * Sturdy 100% cotton vintage New Old Stock navy blue twill pocket bags. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The“Okinawa” BUCKAROOS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a cold-soak/hang-dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol: * Cold soak for about one hour, with occasional hand agitation, spin dry. * Hang dry for a few hours, and wear briefly while still damp to set creases. * Line dry until fully dry. * The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the fibers, and will rapidly subside with wear.
The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. The BUCKAROOS are designed with somewhat of a generous vintage silhouette in mind, and not intended to be worn tight. The leg is similar to our old Californian Lot.54 pattern. See the various silhouettes of the MF® Californians referenced in the family photo below.
I usually wear W32 in our Californian blue jeans but decided to go for a W31 in the BUCKAROOS, just personal preference with this particular model. The BUCKAROOS are still considered true-to-size, and whether you size down or go for your usual size is up to your desired silhouette. As with all denim twills, but even more so with this particular ‘Okinawa’ sugarcane fiber denim, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements: Soaked = 60mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage.) Please note that the awkward fit pic features a pair of BUCKAROOS straight-off the soak/dry process, unaltered and briefly worn just for the occasion.
DENIM CARE: Wash denim jeans when needed. Hand-wash or machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments. Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive indigo contrasts, refrain from over-washing your jeans. Just enjoy the journey and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully!
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY. Sizes W28 x L32 W29 x L32 W30 x L32 W31 x L32 W32 x L34 W33 x L34 W34 x L34 W36 x L36 W38 x L36
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc FW2018 collection PREVIEW.
There it is.
Our Fall Winter 2018 collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Each item’s story, design background, fabric specs and ethical manufacturing journey will be documented on this blog as released.
All garments manufactured either in USA (MF® “Sportsman” mfsc catalog) or Japan (MF® “Surplus” mfsc catalog).
Drop dates will start sometime during August 2018.
The entire collection will be available from the MF® HQ (our Los Angeles brick & mortar store), on www.misterfreedom.com, and some select pieces from fine retailers around the World. Email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
The “Appaloosa shirt”, HBT stripe denim NOS
Sportsman Fall 2015
We hope your are having an amazing summer. About that time of the year when Fall drops for us.
First installment of Fall 2015 in our growing ‘The Sportsman’ catalog is a shirt pattern introduced during Fall 2013, the Appaloosa, an internet sensation in the Acadian tux community.
The what tux?
Baby The Rain Must Fall (1964)
“O Sole Mio…”
Hey pal, can you sing “Down The Street Around The Corner”? You do it so well.
After a cup of smart juice, we settled on ONE denim lot this time around, not four. That New Old Stock denim is also an old acquaintance for us, as we already used part of that lot for the Spring 2015 ‘Workman Shirt’. This fabric is a dark pinstripe herringbone twill 2×1 denim of about 8 oz., with an initial raw fabric sheen. The HBT pattern is more clearly visible on the inside of the fabric. The pinstripes on the face are very subtle. Although blackish/grayish-looking when brand new, this fabric will naturally fade to blue with repeat wash-wear cycles.
For the design, we have combined several details of vintage western and work shirts, diverting a bit from the traditional cowboy cut denim western yoke numbers. As introduced a few years back with the Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts, our Appaloosa Shirt features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts. Our front yoke is of a vintage ‘Roebuck’ type rather than the usual western arcuate style. The pocket flaps are locked in the yoke.
The Appaloosa also combines two stitching colors, yellow and orange, in what appears to be a random pattern. The top collar button on this edition is the metal debossed mfsc type we often use for our Sportsman line.
The Sportsman ‘Appaloosa Shirt’ is designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage workwear and western shirting.
FABRIC: HBT stripe denim: 100% cotton herringbone twill denim, subtle vertical stripe design, dark indigo color, about 8 Oz. Origin USA.
* Slim ‘western shirt’ type silhouette and fit.
* Painted metal DOT snaps. The white paint will chip with age.
* Vintage ‘Roebuck’ type front yoke
* Western style back yoke.
* Two chest pockets, snap flaps, locked into yoke construction.
* Double snap cuffs.
* Orange and yellow 100% cotton stitching combination, high stitch count.
* Double chainstitch construction with green color thread “Sportsman” inside signature.
* Olive green cotton popeline side gusset, chainstitch run offs.
* Original mfsc “The Sportsman” woven rayon label.
* Made in USA
This shirt comes RAW/Un-washed and will shrink to tagged size. We recommend an original 20-30mn cold soak, machine spin dry then line dry.
I usually wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I am a comfortable MEDIUM in this ‘Appaloosa’ HBT stripe denim shirt. I had to size up to a Large with the original Fall 2013 edition of the Appaloosa Shirt, but this one is true-to-size.
Please refer to sizing chart for raw/rinsed measurements. We fully washed and partially machine dried these samples, so our measurements reflect the maximum shrinkage that can be expected.
Appaloosa HBT Sizing Chart
Sizes S, M, L, XL, XXL
Mister Freedom® MFSC ‘BUCKAROOS’ Waist Overalls, made in USA.
‘Men of the Frontier’ Collection, Fall 2012
Introducing our humble contribution to the crowded World of blue jeans this season, the 6th installment of our ongoing “Men of the Frontier” saga, the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC “BUCKAROOS” Waist Overalls.
The term ‘buckaroo’ has its commonly agreed on origin in the late 1800s days of the American Frontier, when Spanish settlers were heard calling cowboys and ranch hands vaqueros. For those not familiar with the Spanish language, the anglicized version and phonetic spelling caught on.
The silhouette of our Buckaroos is similar to that of our Californian Blue Jeans Lot54 and Lot44, with a very slightly narrower bottom part of the leg. As always, those blue jeans are NO skinnies, as we leave that desirable look to other jeans makers. The silhouette references can be seen on vintage cow puncher and vaqueros imagery from the fascinating photographic works of Arthur Rothstein, Russell Lee and other FSA appointed documentalists.
(below photos courtesy of Library of Congress)
Our Buckaroos blue jeans are not cut from a classic ‘five pocket’ typical pattern, since we thought that cow had been milked and needed some rest for now.
We have chosen to use two types of New Old Stock American milled denim, found in a local dusty warehouse, making the production of the Buckaroos limited to small batches. The two different selvedge denim twills are referred to as B2 and B5.
The labeling story behind the Buckaroos double branding comes from a Ranch foreman purchasing his wranglers their denim jeans from the local maker. The jeans were then identified as Ranch property by stitching a branded leather label on top of the maker’s patch…
Don’t look that story up as I made it up, but here is a little homemade clip of the fun branding process, if you are bored to death.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
PHOTOGRAPHY NOTES: The photos above are a mix of buckaroos in RAW condition (that’s how they come), one rinse, and my personal worn pair (on and off for about 3-4 months, not for sale.)
The featured photo is a ‘making of’ teaser of a shoot directed by talented photographer Matt Hind, from the mighty fine MEN’S FILE publication. Don’t miss Issue 08, a special on denim & workwear, coming out in January 2013, with the REAL photos of that session…
Additionally, in this month’s CLUTCH Magazine (another fine new publication, from the Editor of the Japanese legendary LIGHTNING Magazine, Mr. Atsushi Matsushima), the buckaroos are featured, motion picture style! Spaghetti Western meets Manga.
And now, the long overdue…
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by western slacks, vintage denim dungarees and old imagery.
Two options of raw New Old Stock American milled denim twill, indigo dyed, 3×1, selvedge. B2: Dark indigo dyed selvedge denim, about 12+ Oz. Sanforized. Somewhat of a 1950’s feel to it. B5: Indigo dyed selvedge denim, about 11 Oz. Width shrinkage from 3 to 5%. Lighter in weight than B2, with an early work wear fabric type feel.
Pocket lining: 100% cotton NOS woven plaid twill, indigo/white (two similar types, shown in above photo gallery)
DETAILS: * ‘Old West’ silhouette, revisited.
* Original front pocket with folding buttoned flap. Reinforcement un-marked copper riveting.
* Original MFSC upper curved cinch back strap, sandwiched in the back yoke, riveted.
* Wider rear belt loops, to fit your concha belt.
* Metal donut crest buttons, ‘old stock’ finish.
* Concealed rivets on back pockets with original “M” stitch and slightly curved opening.
* Original double labeling. One printed cloth label with original artwork mounted during construction, partially superimposed by a leather patch with “MF” hot branding.
* All 100% cotton color thread. We are using an original MFSC combination of 12 types of gauge/color thread per pair. Main colors are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* All cotton New Old Stock woven plaid pocket bags.
PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original ‘finer than frog hair’ artwork. Please re-use.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE: Both denim options come raw/unwashed and will shrink to approximately the same proportions. Both fabrics will shrink from approximately 1% to 5%, depending on the specific lot number of the milled batch. Variations are beyond our control and inherent to shuttle loom machinery inconsistency, and to the ‘risky biz’ of using (often un-labeled) NOS denim.
Stamped sizes on the cloth patch are the POST RINSE/DRY measurements.
We recommend an original cold soak, no agitation, spin dry and line dry.
See chart bellow for approximate measurements.
Available RAW/unwashed (again, the photos of the used jeans above are just for reference, and NOT how they will come) SIZES: (= marked and post shrink) Waist x Length 28 x 32 29 x 32 30 x 32 31 x 32 32 x 34 33 x 34 34 x 34 36 x 34 38 x 34
Call 323-653-2014 or mail email@example.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Señoras y Caballeros, thank you for the support, always.