Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Jacket, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim, mfsc FW2021. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Jacket, sulfur-dyed selvedge denim (Raw) ©2021

Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Jacket, sulfur-dyed selvedge denim (Rinsed) ©2021

Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Coat, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim.
mfsc FW2021 SPORTSMAN catalog.
Made in USA.

Hot on the trail of the recently-released Californian “Outlaw” and Ranch Blouse, in matching black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim, comes the Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Coat.

The pattern of this latest addition to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog was inspired by a blend of vague childhood memories of western-wear from screen characters (maybe James Stewart in “The Far Country” 1954, or Robert Fuller on “Laramie”?), visuals from old Marlboro ads, and vintage duck canvas chore coats I’ve come across through my rag-picking years.

 

After some detective work Texas Rangers-style, I realized that “South Texas Brush Jacket” is how this short and boxy unlined canvas coat style is often referred-to. A favorite amongst horsemen in thorny Brush Country terrain, the style became a staple piece of gear for Texas buckaroos and ranch hands, and was largely adopted by the gritty vaqueros from Northern Mexico such as the kineños, the OG cow-boys hired to work on King Ranch in the mid 1800s.
Early models may have been made from tin cloth, and it’s unclear of when the style actually originated (1920’s-30’s?)… On the theme of western fashion’s origins, short fascinating read here.
Some brush jacket specimen are featured on this 1949 “Vanishing Cowboy” LIFE Magazine shoot, as recently spotted by our friend, style acrobat and collector extraordinaire Enoch Bayrd.

Courtesy of LIFE “The Vanishing Cowboy” (1949)

Below is a collage of some old 1930s-70s photos published in a “Vaqueros of South Texas” public FB group, some of the vaqueros sporting Brush Jackets.

Period photos courtesy of Vaqueros of South Texas FB group.

The typical “Brush Jacket” as we know it was often cut from brown duck or, less-commonly, from bone white canvas, and readily available from saddle shops, dry goods stores and ranch supplies COOPs. Brands like FINESILVER Mfg. Co, a now-defunct workwear and military uniform maker, produced them for years in its downtown San Antonio factory in Texas. Carhartt probably had its own version, along with the brand’s iconic ¾ length barn coat classic and other duck canvas models.

Vintage 60s FINESILVER Mfg Co Brush Jacket, courtesy of Vacation.

Besides the signature cropped length of original Brush Jackets, one striking feature is the characteristic contrast corduroy trimming (collar, pocket openings and cuffs). It is said that the corduroy-lined collar was initially-intended to be easier on one’s sunburned neck… An old-school vaquero also mentions dipping his Brush Jacket in the horse trough in the hot summer days, and wearing it wet as a cooling layer.

Comes in our DESPERADO…
If the saddle length of the originals makes sense if your job description involves a horse, we figured we’d adapt the bolero-style cut to better serve the aesthetics of contemporary city dwellers, less likely to go roping stray cattle in the South Texas mesquite brush. The “cropped look” is an acquired taste, and not easy to pull-of for most.
Because we didn’t have a vintage specimen in our archives for pattern inspiration, we decided to merge our military dungaree FROGMAN jacket A-line style with traditional western-wear brush jacket specifics. A scribbled Post-it®, a rough pocket prototype, and some notes from the MF® Design Dept (we didn’t even have photos of originals at the time) were all it took for our friend Fukutomi San at Toyo Enterprises to draft an original pattern. The DESPERADO was born.

The keen eye will note that we added a slight curve to the arcuate on the corduroy pocket trimming, on the patch pocket bottom shape, and on the cuff piecing. This is in contrast with the common straight lines typical of purified utilitarian fashion, intended to be easier and faster to cut & sew. This subtle tweak, along with the single needle pocket construction add an elegant early workwear touch to the jacket.

Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Jacket early R&D pocket prototype ©2021

For the fabric, we opted for the same fancy twill featured on our CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “Outlaw” and its matching RANCH BLOUSE: a premium mid-weight 13 Oz. selvedge denim combining a black sulfur-dyed warp yarn (fabric face) with a black sulfur-dyed weft (fabric reverse), produced on traditional shuttle looms by vintage textile experts in Japan.

Why DESPERADO? Partly because of  Townes Van Zandt’s “Pancho & lefty”, a fine classic tune about a bandit and his partner (we are working on some MF® Spotify playlists for your listening pleasure btw, Pancho & Lefty is on Truck Stop Jukebox), and also because this is our friend Tom “Sugar Cane” Tanaka’s favorite Eagles’ album!

The MF® DESPERADO Brush Jacket in black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Mid-weight 13 Oz. solid black denim twill, sulfur-dyed warp x sulfur-dyed weft, selvedge (white with red line ID), 100% cotton, milled in Japan on traditional shuttle looms.
Trims: 100% cotton corduroy.

DETAILS:
* An original Mister Freedom® twist on the traditional western-wear “Brush Jacket”, barn coats, and military utility jackets.
* Three front patch pocket, one inside chest pocket.
* Tonal corduroy trimming for collar/pocket openings/cuffs.
* Curved arcuate trims and bottom pocket pattern.
* Metal button front closure, original Mister Freedom® mfsc cast silver tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper rivets pocket reinforcement.
* Split back featuring the fabric selvedge.
* Selvedge button front panel folded facing.
* All flat-felled seams chainstitch construction.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING:
The MF® DESPERADO Brush Jacket sulfur-dyed black denim twill comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
  • Washing machine spin dry cycle.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

The DESPERADO is considered true-to-size. I opted for a 38 (Medium) for a comfortable fit (5.7’’ / approx. 150 lbs). The 36 (Small) felt too tight for the silhouette I was going for, although I had opted for a 36 in the navy HBT Frogman jacket.
As with all denim twills, minor back and forth shrinkage/stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
DENIM CARE:
Treat this black sulfur-dyed denim twill as you would premium indigo-dyed denim.
Wash sporadically, only when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “OUTLAW” model, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim, mfsc FW2021. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “OUTLAW” model, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim edition.
mfsc FW2021 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

For Fall 2021, we are releasing our classic Ranch Blouse and Californian Lot.64 in a special solid black denim twill, developed and milled in Japan by Sugarcane Co.

This premium mid-weight 13 Oz. selvedge denim combines a black sulfur-dyed warp yarn (fabric face) with a black sulfur-dyed weft (fabric reverse), and is produced on traditional shuttle looms. The contrasting selvedge (white with red line) adds a fancy touch to the solid black denim twill.

Sulfur dyes are notorious for their lower colorfastness (resistance to fading), when compared to other dyeing methods, such as pigment dyes for instance. Sulfur-dyed fabric tends to naturally fade “faster”. Over time, with extensive wear and normal laundry routine, the black yarns will fade to dark/medium/light grey (eventually to white). The resulting attractive patina is reminiscent of well-worn traditional indigo-dyed denim, “whiskers” and all. See some faded Sugar Cane’s sulfur-dyed specimen here.

For Fall 2021, our original Ranch blouse design remains pretty much unchanged from its 2010 inception, A-1 style collar, unique slanted pockets on lower chest with single pocket flap, “M” stitching on pockets, pleated front with signature arrowhead darts stitching, 30s-style buckle back etc…

For the matching Californians, we opted for our popular Lot.64 cut – slightly tapered leg, mid rise, traditional silhouette – but decided to spice up the traditional five-pocket pattern by introducing a western-wear modification. The Lot.64-OTL features “frogmouth” type pocket openings, sometimes referred-to as western pockets, a detail often seen on early riding apparel. We have played around with this style in the past, with mfsc oldies such as the MF® Vaqueros,  Buckaroos, Conductor Slacks, and most recently the Deputy Britches, from which the pocket opening pattern was borrowed and adapted to our new Californian “Outlaw”.
This western touch is subtle, but adds a cool twist to the classic five-pocket jeans, making the Lot.64-OTL the latest member of our Californian family.

Worn as a matching set, paired with indigo-dyed denim tops and bottoms, vintage pieces or contemporary heritage-style sportswear, this black denim ensemble is pretty versatile and easy to incorporate into a classic wardrobe.

The black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.64-OTL (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS
FABRIC:
Mid-weight 13 Oz. solid black denim twill, sulfur-dyed warp x sulfur-dyed weft, selvedge (white with red line ID), 100% cotton, milled in Japan on traditional shuttle looms.

FACING (collar lining, pocket flap, pocket bags):
New Old Stock (NOS) 3×1 denim, dark indigo, 100% cotton.

FW2021 RANCH BLOUSE, black sulfur-dyed denim edition:
DETAILS:
* All original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by vintage trucker-style denim work jackets.
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* Vintage boxy but slim silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® signature arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original lower chest double slanted pockets with “M” branding stitching, single pocket flap.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* Contrast NOS 3×1 denim facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Brass cast MF® branded tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer.
* Chainstitch construction, tonal dark navy blue thread, 100% cotton.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING FIT:
The black sulfur-dyed Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
  • Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this black sulfur-dyed edition, a cold-soaked 38. I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.

FW2021 CALIFORNIAN “Outlaw” Lot.64-OTL, black sulfur-dyed denim edition:
DETAILS:
* Original Mister Freedom® classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Western-style “Frogmouth” front pocket opening pattern.
* Button fly, combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS 3×1 denim pocket bags.
* MF® original “M” branding stitch design on rear pockets.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread, gauge combination.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement bar tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (ivory white).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The black sulfur-dyed Californian Lot.64-OTL jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
  • Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 with this model (my current waist size in MF® Californians), for a classic silhouette with a snug waist, comfortable top block and straight leg. I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
As with all denim twills, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
DENIM CARE:
Treat this black sulfur-dyed denim twill as you would premium indigo-dyed denim.
Wash denim jeans/jacket sporadically, only when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

 

Who’s bad? Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS, NOS black coated denim, Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017, made in USA.

Who’s bad.

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS, NOS black-coated crosshatch denim.
Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017.
Made in USA.

Originally released in cream and black cotton piqué under the “Speedway Piqué Jeans” moniker during Fall 2011, a modified version (sans buckle-back and with a slightly more tapered leg) made it to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog in 2015, as the Malibu’s, offered in light indigo ‘sea denim’ and wheat color ‘sand denim’.

This MF® tribute to late 50’s early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2017, this time with a special “coated denim”. This fancy NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the usual light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality..

If this garment initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, each pair will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo, black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion. See the denim wash test photos below, also featuring a small section rubbed with sand paper.

 

The mfsc Speedways are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers.
* Tab waist band à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps.
* No belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: sturdy 100% cotton charcoal grey covert chambray.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Speedways black-coated denim come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine: cold soak for about 30-40mn, spin dry, hang dry. These are true to size, with the industry-standard generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches, quite psychologically gratifying for the consumer concerned about his waistline.)
I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc bottoms, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. I did not yet fully wash/heat dry my pair, and wear the W31 with one side of the snap tabs cinched.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.

CARE:
Treat the MF® Speedways black-coated denim as you would fancy indigo denim jeans. Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

If these Speedways denim jeans initially look flat black, each pair will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2017