Mister Freedom® Casquette “La DEFFE”, New Old Stock fabric, made in USA. (June 2018 inventory UPDATE)

“La bande du Grand Albert”, Paris, by Brassaï, early 1930’s.

Mister Freedom® Casquette “La Deffe”, NOS fabrics.
Made in USA.

Here is an inventory update of our popular MF® Casquette “La Deffe”, an original headwear pattern we initially released in 2011 and have been consistently restocking since. The first batch was released during our “Les Apaches” collection.
Inspired by French 1920’s~40’s mens casquettes, these single-panel caps are cut from vintage New Old Stock fabrics, and constructed in the spirit of their ancestors.
The term ”deffe” is an obsolete French slang word, only familiar to an older generation today. Etymologically, a hat manufacturer called DESFOUX (located near Pont-Neuf, Paris, and established in 1878) made silk caps favored by butchers, pimps and Parisian apaches. A ”Desfoux” or “deffe” ended designating a cap in colorful gangster argot.

The MF® Casquette “La Deffe” is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

* An original MF® pattern inspired by French single-panel 1920’s~40’s casquettes.
* Cut from assorted New Old Stock vintage fabrics, available in very limited quantity.
* Genuine kangaroo leather sweatband, veg-tan, will not stretch or rot.
* Vintage NOS black twill hat lining, featuring silkscreened original Mister Freedom® artwork.
* Decorative crown strap, secured by 1900’s french NOS glass buttons
* Snap-up brim (vintage United Carr snap).
* Made in our fancy 7161 Beverly atelier.

The MF® Casquettes “La Deffe” are ready-to-wear and do not require any initial treatment.
We measure the sweatband in centimeters. If unsure, measure your head circumference with a metric cloth measuring tape to determine your hat size. Kangaroo leather will technically not stretch or shrink, but the hat crown might loosen slightly with normal wear.

Professional cleaning only. Do not machine-wash.

Available raw/unwashed.
Limited sizes available per fabric option. See updated inventory here.
 (~ US 7 1/8)
(~ US 7 1/4)
 (~ US 7 3/8)
 (~ US 7 1/2)
(~ US 7 5/8)
(~ US 7 3/4)
Retail $199.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.comour Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap, NOS selvedge denim, Spring 2018, made in USA.


Apache dancers, circa 1925
(Photo Boris Lipnitzki © Roger Viollet)

Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap
NOS selvedge denim edition
SS2018 Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

The Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap is the latest addition to our Couvre-Chef Department, consisting of a selection of vintage-inspired headwear, revisited à-la MF®.
The line-up already includes our classic Casquette “La Deffe” and ”Scuttler” Cap, both regularly issued in an assortment of vintage New Old Stock fabrics. The full released range of these two popular models can be seen at our Los Angeles HQ, and some can be spotted atop Jack Sparrow’s head.

Looking at photos of our new pattern, one will notice that the MF® ROADSTEADER is not a vintage replica, but rather a combo of old-school styles, a mix bag of references to bygone fashions and Costume History, all blending into an irresistible piece of accoutrement for the 21st Century snappy dresser!
We drew pointers from the early fashion of the Apaches of the Belle Époque, the flamboyant ruffians who had inspired a Mister Freedom® collection back in 2011. Late 1870’s illustrations of the infamous Parisian gangsters invariably depict their trademark hat, the Casquette Desfoux, aka ‘deffe. Originally a black wool or silk cap with a leather visor (casquette à pont), the style was allegedly borrowed from the Maquignons, livestock traders with a reputation for unscrupulous practices. During the 1880’s, bands of Apaches of the Ville des Lumières also seem to have adopted the Maquignons’ traditional pleated indigo blouse (the biaude or blaude, familiar today to the finest hunters of antique European textiles), along with the wide-wale corduroy trousers favored by wood-workers and farmers.

It may sound quite ironic that, considering how much these french OGs loathed physical work, rather favoring absinthe, pander and larceny, they opted for vestimentary styles so associated with the working class… Might-this have been an underworld well-thought strategy however, one that would facilitate blending in the crowd when chased by a squadron of grippe-coquin (literally “grab-rascal”), aka Gendarmes? Another case for Inspector Clouseau. On a side note for the traveller, don’t go around today addressing a Gendarme as “Monsieur grippe-coquin”, things might get out of hand, and holidays cut short.

All these fine threads could conveniently be stolen from boutiques on the crowded rue Mouffetard (5th arrondissement of Paris), retail destinations such as “Maison Panet”, workwear outfitters and novelty goods purveyors since 1829. On that same street, at number 65, stood another fine establishment belonging to a certain Auguste Bénard, local tailor and… ’inventor’ of the original fashion flares! The flared-bottom trousers that he designed in the 1870’s (“pantalon à pattes” or “pattes d’eph” -literally elephant leg- narrow at the knee with bell-shaped leg opening) were a big hit with the Apaches of the early days, as featured on Théophile Steinlen‘s amazing period illustrations. Speaking of inspiring graphics, check this vintage sheet music blog.

Today, for an older french generation who has no idea who Pikachu is, the street slang term “bénard” stills designates a pair of pants, and “deffe” a generic casquette.

Besides this colorful Parisian influence, our Roadsteader design obviously borrows from the traditional Greek fisherman’s cap, and recreational ‘captain’ hat styles, in-turn inspired by military naval covers. This external blog post is a fun illustrated read if you’re into nautical headgear history.

The design process to nail the pattern and construction of our Roadsteader Cap has been quite challenging for our in-house atelier, as attest the many prototypes made. Panels size, seams, stitching, dimensions, leather grade, trims, …, were endlessly tweaked during R&D. Our aim was not to rival with mil-specs hat makers Bancroft Cap Company, or traditional yachting cap specialist Lancaster Hat Co , but we still wanted a hat worthy of being featured in the ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog…
The MF® Roadsteader eventually passed the final exam and survived field-testing.
So there it is.

The MF® Roasteader Cap is designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®.

An original MF® pattern, inspired by an assortment of vintage nautical covers and 1900’s french traditional working-class hats.
Shell: NOS 2/1 indigo selvedge denim, about 8 Oz. (for reference, similar to the weight of a classic lightweight western denim snap shirt or vintage US Army barrack bag, as opposed to the 12~15 Oz. weight of traditional 3/1 denim 5-pocket jeans.)
Lining: Vintage NOS glazed 100% cotton fabric, silkscreen.
Leather trims: cowhide headband and visor, with genuine kangaroo hide headband lining.

* Fancy old-school construction.
* Unstructured crown. (no plastic frame)
* Fully lined with NOS black glazed cotton, featuring original MF® silkscreened label.
* Cowhide leather headband.
* Unlined cowhide leather visor with indigo HBT tape piping.
* Genuine kangaroo hide headband facing, with red/white/blue bow.
* Traditional chinstrap was replaced by a riveted strap, featuring concealed denim selvedge ID.
* Made in USA.

The headband size in measured in centimeters. The headband will not stretch altogether, but the kangaroo lining will soften with wear and ‘loosen-up’ the fit a bit.
Size 58 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ¼ hat size.
Size 60 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ½ hat size.
Note that the crown of the Roadsteader is unstructured (no plastic frame) so that it will ‘slouch’ naturally with wear. We recommend cocking it to one side, and a bit to the back, for the old-salt vibe.

Do not attempt to wash/dry the MF® Roadsteader Cap. Professional spot-cleaning only, if needed. With normal repeat wear, this cap will start to ‘slouch’ and the denim fabric begin to drape naturally. Both the indigo denim twill and leather will acquire a natural patina overtime.
We do not recommend trying to artificially hasten the normal aging process. Just wear and enjoy.

Available Raw/unwashed.
Size 58 (cm) (approx. 7 ¼)
Size 60 (cm) (approx. 7 ½)

Retail $249.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® “Chemisette Guinguette”, “Les Apaches” collection, mfsc Spring 2011.

Original oil painting by Patrick Segui ©2011


Chemisette GUINGUETTE, piqué cotton.
“Les Apaches” mfsc collection.
Spring 2011

The MF® Chemisette Guinguette is another number that missed the boat… Waterskiing issues again.
This shirt was part of the line-up of our “Les Apaches” Spring 2011 collection, inspired by Paris of the Belle Époque and her infamous bands of flamboyant brigands. Read a brief intro here.

In order to locate an authentic operating guinguette, one can peruse Messy Nessy’s upcoming and promising “Don’t be a tourist in Paris” guidebook. However, to pair your Valseur with a lively partner, the Chemisette Guinguette is the ticket!

A bold move at the time (this was released in 2011, heydays of rugged denim workwear in the flourishing ‘Heritage’ movement), we opted for three jazzy color options of a fancy woven piqué fabric, 100% cotton, developed from a vintage 1920’s French polo shirt.
Time seems to alter the relevance of clothes when collections are designed from a pure flavor-of-the-month perspective, one of the evident downfall of fast fashion. Well, seven years later, we still dig these polo shirts and the pastel palette.
Whether mixing them with our latest Gypsy Blues duds, going for a 60’s vibe with a wheat Californian Lot.74 and Breezer combo, opting for a preppy look with some of our Continental Trousers or Sportsman Chinos, or cruising Yachting-style around the marina with white slacks, the Chemisettes Guinguette are versatile menswear classics, à la MF®.
The Chemisette Guinguette is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

Note: The chemisettes pictured in the fit pix have been extensively worn/washed, resulting in heavy color fading.

For more Art from Patrick Segui, the talented fella responsible for the amazing original painting featured on the MF® “Les Apaches” box tops, check-out his artist’s blog or his vintage clothing collector’s journal.

100% cotton, ridged woven piqué, non-stretch, milled in Japan.
Three pastel color options: Yellow, Pink and Green.

* Inspired by vintage 1920’s -1930’s French short-sleeve polo shirts.
* Slim silhouette.
* ¼ sleeves.
* “Hirondelle” collar.
* Arcuate back yoke and rear collar.
* Side slits.
* Narrow ‘French’ side seams.
* Made in Japan.

The Chemisette Guinguette comes raw/un-washed and will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak and line dry process. True to size, this polo shirt fits rather slim with zero fabric stretch. I wear a fitted medium, my usual size in mfsc shirts.
Refer to chart for raw/cold soak measurements.


Low maintenance. Machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry. Use of hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes (French-style shirting sizing)
37 (Small)
39 (Medium)
41 (Large)
43 (X-Large)

Retail: $179.95

A few NOS specimens are still available from www.misterfreedom.com, and the MF® Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® on the silver screen: “L’Hirondelle du Faubourg”

This following short movie contains scenes that some viewers may find disturbing and inappropriate. Viewer discretion is advised.

Full image credit and copyright to MASS PRODUCTIONS
Soundtrack courtesy of Sounty Sinto

Filmed on location in Belgium. Warm thank you to all benevolent participants, technicians and independant artists involved 😉

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane MFSC “Apaches” Fall 2011 (Part 1): Gilet Métisse

MFSC Gilet Metisse Apache


Our first MFSC Apaches Fall delivery is in!

If you’ve missed the Spring pitch, here it is again (if you know it by heart, skip the skit and scroll down for the low down on the SPECS)

The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.

They were called Les Apaches

Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.

For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty  larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.

In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.

Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…

MFSC Fall 2011, APACHES Collection: Gilet de Ville métisse

: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This fabric is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC  lightweight black moleskine, all cotton, 5 oz.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
 * Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER:  Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: The gilet comes RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC. 
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.
Some not-so-serious fit pix here

Gilet Métisse Sizing Chart

Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.