“Blouson El Americano” Indigo corduroy, Duck canvas & Stripe covert. MFSC Fall 2013

Blouson El Americano Mister Freedom 2013

 

El-Americano-Blouson-Corduroy

 

El-Americano-Blouson-Duck

 

El-Americano-Blouson-Covert

 

 

 

“Blouson El Americano”
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

 

Let’s assume you have not yet forgotten our filibuster friend “El Americano“, introduced in the Fall 2013 chapter of mfsc “Viva la Revolución” collection…

Well, if he impressed many of his compañeros with his swag from the start, this had no little to do with that blusón he was wearing when he rode into Ensenada, one fine day of 1918. An elegant lone rider, clad in gringo attire and followed by nothing but a dust cloud… That day, El Americano was sporting a waist length soft leather jacket, button front and rounded collar, a casual yet stylish style not yet all the rage it was to become with American youth in the 1930’s.
Passing in front of a small store front just off La Calle Primera, he was hailed by François, a recently immigrated Frenchman, tailor by trade. François, you guessed it, was smoking outside his shop.
But of course. The rest is stuff of legends…
“Nice blouson Monsieur. I see you are quite the homme de goût … I just received some bolts of fabrics you might like to have zis coat made from?”

Blouson-Inspiration

Original ‘El Americano’ leather jacket circa 1918

FW13-swatches Mister Freedom

Original fabric swatches, courtesy of François ze tailor of Ensenada

After almost permanently silencing François because El Americano didn’t appreciate being diagnosed with gout by a stranger, the horseman agreed to dismount and enter the shop. He liked what he saw, rich but rugged fabrics, freshly imported from the Orient.
Few words were subsequently exchanged, as El Americano was a res non verba kinda fella, and the appeal of small talk eluded him.

Forty-eight hours later, a manila string wrapped a brown craft paper bundle. A calligraphed ‘Blouson, El Americano‘ red and white gum label was affixed to it. A few Pancho Villa pesos bills changed hands.
A set of waistcoats and trousers were also ordered the same week.
El Americano was now ‘dressed to kill’, for Land and Liberty…

Now you know this is a dated tale since there is no way in the world a Frenchman would do all that work in 48h. So, back to reality.

Our ‘Blouson’ is inspired by several short-type vintage jackets. 1920’s-30’s suede leather jackets, casual western coats, cotton work jackets…
The flared shape of the cuffs is inspired by a detail seen on a museum photo of a 1800’s chinaco (warriors, expert horsemen not belonging to the Mexican upper-class, War of Reform) suede ‘bolero’ jacket.

Chinaco-1800's

Original Chinaco outfit, 19th Century

Additionally the 1920’s-30’s period typical low chest pocket position (below rib cage) is so that you can  fill up both your shirt and jacket pockets without causing discomfort nor excessive bulging.

As always the ‘Blouson El Americano’ is not an exact replica of an existing jacket, rather a new garment that kinda looks old, a la MF®.
As a matter of personal preferences, we tend to not make our clothes look vintage by distressing them artificially with harsh chemicals/sanding treatments from industrial wash houses. We instead use old tricks and details to make our clothes look like they’ve been around for some time.
To some, these “Blouson El Americano” look like they are off a dusty bygone menswear store shelf… In days of disposable fashion, we don’t think that is a bad thing either.
We have developed 3 entirely different fabrics for this jacket, all milled/dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Indigo vat dyed Corduroy.
b) Brown Duck Canvas.
c) Grey Covert Stripe.

The ‘Blouson El Americano’ is fully lined with ‘Troy Blanket’ for the body, and cotton stripe ticking for the arms.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s-30’s short-type vintage jackets.

FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930′s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear. Milled in Japan.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled… Milled in Japan.
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed. Milled and dyed in Japan.

DETAILS
* A-1 type collar pattern (Brown Duck version has a corduroy collar. Grey Covert has self fabric collar)
* Corozo wood buttons, aka ivory nut. Tonal color
* Adjustable side cinch straps
* Original flared wrist cuffs, ‘chinaco’ style.
* Low chest pockets, inverted box-pleats.
* Collar/cuff/pocket flap facing  lined with cotton indigo covert fabric.
* Fully lined: soft hand woven striped “Troy” blanked body lining (60% reused wool, 28% cotton, 12% Rayon) and stripe cotton ticking arms lining.
* Under arm gussets with venting eyelets.
* Made in Japan

SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that fresh-off-the-shelf look.

For the Indigo corduroy “Blouson El Americano”, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments. Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.

I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “Blouson El Americano”.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss.

El Americano Jackets SIZING

Available raw/unwashed

Sizes
36
 small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge

Retail:
a) 
Indigo Corduroy $689.95
b) Brown Duck Canvas $669.95
c) 
 Grey Covert Stripe $669.95

Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.

Mister Freedom® Fall 2013 preview “The SPORTSMAN” MFSC Collection. Made in USA

Sportsman Fall 2013 Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

Sportsman Fall 2013 Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

Sportsman Fall 2013 Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

Sportsman Fall 2013 Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

As previously introduced for Spring 2013, “The Sportsman” concept is about the feeling of walking into an old pre-70’s Army/Navy surplus store, with its stacks of Americana bits and pieces, piles of New Old Stock ‘unfashionable’ clothes…
Production should be hitting Mister Freedom® store sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
This Fall 2013 line-up is the second volume of the “Sportsman” and introduces the following items, all made in the USA.

* “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans Lot.64:
13.75 Oz. right hand twill 3×1 selvedge denim

* “RANCH BLOUSE” Lot.64:
13.75 Oz. right hand twill 3×1 selvedge denim

* “CAMP ” Flannel Snap Shirt:
Two color ways of an original printed flannel fabric
a) Red
b) Black

* “CAMPUS CARDIGAN”
An original collaboration with famed Ohio Knitting Mills (Founded in 1927. Cleveland, Ohio)
Two color options
a) Natural wool yarn
b) Indigo dyed wool yarn

* “APPALOOSA” Denim Snap Shirt:
10 Oz. selvedge 2×1 denim

* Last but not least, an endeavor that made us feel that Shackelton had it easy, the “CAMPUS JACKET”:
Natural cowhide

Thank you for tuning in.
Happy Summer 😉

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 (Part 1): The “CHAPARRAL BLOUSE”

Chaparral Blouse MFSC® bricks

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: The CHAPARRAL BLOUSE

Because most tailors/sewers/garment suppliers had a European background in the early days of the American Frontier, and because a lot of the fabrics used were imported from the old Country, this collection combines both American and European elements. Stitching techniques, textiles, styles, patterns and inspiration were drawn from both Worlds, a reflection of the coexistence of both cultures at the time.

You will notice, as we unveil each item, that you don’t need to live out on the range, be called Tex and pack a six-shooter to pull of our “Men of the Frontier” garb. It was not designed for re-enacting 3:10 to Yuma, but to mix with what you feel appropriate. I personally like to mix it with stuff from previous MF® collections, such as shirting and trousers from our 1900’s “Apache” French hoodlums.

After introducing the new concept for Spring 2012 last week, here is the first installment: the CHAPARRAL BLOUSE.
Inspired by 1920’s~30’s vintage  jackets, styles and silhouettes, we combined elements, left the wheel as is but slapped our own hub caps on it. This jacket was born from an original sketch, many old photographs and memories.
Since I got you already yawning, here are the specs:

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1920’s~30’s sport type light jackets, leather A-1 type coats, early Chimayo jackets etc…
FABRIC: The Chaparral comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
DETAILS:
* 1920’s~30’s silhouette
* Original A-1 type round collar (yes Sir, we like)
* Back darting and expansion gusset, 1930’s style.
* Horsehide leather side and cuff cinch straps (with vintage NOS French metal slide buckles) and leather pocket trimming and leather detachable chin-strap.
* Corozo wood buttons, tonal.
* Lightweight and un-lined withNO exposed/overlocked seams on the inside (that was some task…)
* Flat felled seams and single needle machine construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both canvas options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Indigo canvas shrinks ‘faster’ than the Duck canvas. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
DO NOT BOIL those canvas blouses, as the leather would NOT like it. The leather can take a full heat drying cycle for several minutes though (check to see what’s happening once in a while.)
Refrain from using soap also, unless you HAVE spent the summer on horseback up the Chisholm trail. This will guarantee an amazing fade and patina overtime.

Click on the sizing chart bellow for approx RAW (Brown) and rinsed/hang dry (Brown and Indigo)  measurements:

Blouse Chaparral SIZING Chart

FIT: I am usually a Medium (38 ) in MFSC jackets, and wear a Medium (38) Indigo blouse in the silly shots above. It has just been rinsed and hung dry once, still has some shrinkage in it. I just started wearing it, and will see .
As far as my brown canvas version, I have worn it for a few months, washed/machine dried it several times (again, it takes ‘longer’, meaning more cycles, for that option to fully shrink and stabilize)

Garment designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured by Sugar Cane Co, under our MFSC collaboration label.
Limited Edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes: 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail: $629.95

Call  (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.