CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans Lot.64, Made in USA

Californian Lot.64 Mister Freedom 2013

Californian Lot.64, and “Safe-T-Flash” reflector belt from VEB Leather.

 

Californian Lot.64 Mister Freedom 2013

 

 

“CALIFORNIAN” Lot.64 Blue Jeans, Made in USA
Mister Freedom® mfsc Sportsman 2013

 

The “CALIFORNIAN” is back.
We know the World needs another pair of jeans as much as it needs a third international major conflict, but we did it anyways.

Unlike the rest of the denim jeans out there boasting the intimidating “Highest Quality”, “World’s Best Denim” and “Unequaled Craftsmanship”, our Californian is simply a pair of five-pocket jeans cut from good denim, and made in Los Angeles, California.

Just like the fine folks coming up with iPhone OS, we like to fix what’s not broken around here, so, although related to our original Lot.54, the Lot.64 comes with a few modifications:

The denim we are using this time is a Japanese selvedge 13 3/4 Oz. indigo twill, milled on shuttle looms in Japan.
This white/pink selvedge ID denim is both slubby in texture and varies in color slightly. This is due to the contrasting shades of indigo and fluctuating size of the warp yarn. From a certain angle, the raw denim appears to have a subtle vertical stripe pattern or ring. With proper wear and normal washing this denim will develop a very nice patina. Wear and patina will obviously depend on your activities, with varied results according to whether you’ll be riding a desk or a horse.

Unlike the Lot.54, the leather back pocket patch now bears no branding and is left to the discretion of the wearer to customize or leave alone. The original white “M” pocket stitch is still there, keeping back pockets a bit more conspicuous than the Bayeux Tapestry type ornaments I see at times…
The back pockets of the Lot.64 are fully lined with the same fabric used for the pocket bags.
We added a printed cloth waist patch, already introduced on our Buckaroos blue jeans (so now you know what was hiding under the MF branded leather patch 😉 This cloth patch will fade, get dirty from your belt and eventually tear with repeat wear and wash.

Of more relevance to most is the slight change in leg silhouette of the Lot.64. versus Lot.54.
No, we still haven’t fallen to the dark side and made a skinny in a ‘vintage wash‘…
Instead adjusted the pattern so that the leg of the Lot.64 is slightly more sixties-ish, a bit more tapered in the lower part.

We also have decided to still offer the Lot.64 in two different length, not a very common feature these days, when ‘stacking’ is the norm. So, less need to worry about locating a Union Special for a hemming job.
I like the look of original hems and leg shape on old Levi’s 501s. Because several inseams were available, some tended to purchase their appropriately fitting length instead of cuffing or cutting. An old XX with its original hem has the very pleasant leg shape balance than seems to often lack when jeans are altered.
For the Californian, we have made TWO leg patterns, one for inseam 32 and one for inseam 34, and not merely shortened the length. This way the leg retains its shape (slightly ‘ballooning’.) This sounds like a lot of efforts for not much, but those who get it will appreciate. Of course this is all irrelevant if you’re into big cowboy-cuffs.

For pocketing, we are using two different types of New Old Stock fabrics, both indigo woven plaids. Similar in weight but different in pattern. The pocket bags are random and a specific plaid is not available in all waist/inseam. We just used up what was at hand, another “it-is-what-it-is” MF® funky way of doing it.

Designed and made in Los Angeles, California, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Please note that some of the photos show my own Californian Lot.64, worn on/off for about 3 months, rinsed twice. Production comes RAW, unwashed and NOT distressed.

The “Safe-T-Flash” reflector belt I am wearing in one of the photos  is an original VEB Leather belt, hand crafted by USMC Master Sergeant Villanueva of Vintage Engineer Boots blog fame. Amazing craftsmanship on all his creations, made right were he is currently stationed. See some of them here and contact him directly for custom orders, from guitar straps to belts and wallets…

SPECS:

PATTERN
Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist. Adapted but shamelessly lifted from the iconic and almighty XX 501.
Silhouette inspired by vintage fits and old photography, BRMC meets Beatniks. Traditional mid-rise with straight slightly tapered leg.

FABRIC
13 3/4 Oz. selvedge Right Hand Twill indigo denim. White/pink selvedge ID. Milled on shuttle looms in Japan. (aka SC1966)

POCKETING
NOS 100% cotton woven plaid, indigo dyed yarn. Two different woven patterns, as they come.

DETAILS
* Five pocket, button fly, selvedge leg seams,…
* Original “M” stitch design and solid un-branded cowhide leather patch.
* Printed MFSC cloth patch on waist band.
* Hidden back pocket rivets with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Fully lined back pocket with NOS woven plaid twill.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Twelve types of all cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Selvedge button hole flap (yes, it’s under the overlock, we’re vicious.)
* Two inseam options. 32 or 34
* NOS all cotton woven plaid pocket lining.
* Original MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
*Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Made in USA

SIZING/WASHING
The Californian Lot.64 comes UN-WASHED and cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an original cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian” actually measures about 34” x 36½” before wash.  It will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.

Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear a comfortable tagged waist 32 in the Lot.64
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Although some like to wear their jeans raw, a more common option is the cold rinse/line dry/wear-when-damp. This allows to set creases and to have a stand-by-themselves pair of jeans the next day, an Instagram favorite.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/rinsed measurements. Please note that in our case, ‘rinsed’ means a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie minimal shrinkage).

Lot 64 Inseam 34

Available RAW/unwashed/Un-sanforized
Sizes

W28 x L32 and L34
W29 x L32 and L34
W30 x L32 and L34
W31 x L32 and L34
W32 x L32 and L34
W33 x L32 and L34
W34 x L32 and L34
W36 x L32 and L34
W38 x L32 and L34
Retail $329.95

AVAILABLE on www.misterfreedom.com

Please email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered in the above ramblings.
Thank you for your support as always.

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans, Lot. 54: The evolution

Mister Freedom Californian (front)

 

The evolution of one pair our Made in USA “Californian” Blue Jeans, after about 5 months of regular wear and abuse…
Those jeans started being worn raw for a few days. Then a quick cold soak for 10 minutes, hung dry and worn still damp.
Four washing cycles during the five months period, cold water, very minimal soap, turned inside-out, no dryer.

All the original specs here. Some sizes are SOLD OUT.

The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes
28×32, 29x32, 30×32, 31×32, 32×34, 33x34, 34×34, 36×34, 38×34. (see “Sizing” in the specs link  for the low-down)
Retail $249.95

Call (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans, Lot. 54

CL-Calif--Montage
CL-Calif-009WEB CL-Calif-021WEB

The long awaited for MISTER FREEDOM® first “Five Pockets” style blue jeans are in the house! All made in USA from American un-sanforized Dead Stock (NOS) indigo blue 12 oz. denim…

SPECS:
* Pattern: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans.
* Fabric: New Old Stock American made selvedge indigo denim. White/red stripped selvedge ID. Un-sanforized. Approx. 12oz. square yard weight. Guaranteed to age and beautify with repeat wear.
* Pocketing: 100% cotton sturdy bedford cord type woven NOS fabric. Natural un-bleached white.
* Fit: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
“Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go (SNAP)”
* Construction: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Top back pockets covered riveting and ‘zigzag flush’ reinforcement. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* Stitching: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* Trims: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* Labeling: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* Shrinkage: 8% or less, with minimal shrinkage with cold rinse/hang dry (recommended) and maximum shrinkage with hot wash/full dryer cycle. As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur depending on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
* Sizing: The Californian comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage.
Example:  A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 36” before wash.  They will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear from a W30 to W32 depending on my mood/style of the pants (I have a W30 on the photo, about 2 months wear.)

NOTE:
1) On length:
To avoid the effect of the “accordeon” legs, tipical of the Japanese denim replica silhouettes, we chose graduated length for the Californian. Many pairs of vintage denim are often seen worn “as found”, ie. sometimes borderline too short on taller individuals. We prefer this to the ‘endless’ legs characteristic of all new denim production.
If the jeans are too long, cuff them (sloppy rolls our folded) if you like cuffs. If they are just or a tad too short, a narrow single fold cuff still looks cool imo. Just wear good footwear!
If they look like bermudas on you, then it’s not meant to be…
2) On washing:
We recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
The “wear ’em raw” method is great too (makes for amazing wear), but you might want to size down (if you are a measured waist 30”, wear a tagged W29), and never hit water! Even when worn raw, denim will shrink/stretch with heat/tension, so your jeans will adapt to your body over time.
3) Leather patch:
The debossed MF® pocket leather patch will lose its details/colour with washing in warm/hot water (for those of you who insist on hot soaking their jeans…) It will dry out and crack overtime, and is intended to do so.

The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L32 SOLD OUT
W29 × L32 SOLD OUT
W30 × L32 SOLD OUT
W31 × L32 SOLD OUT
W32 × L34 SOLD OUT
W33 × L34 SOLD OUT
W34 × L34 SOLD OUT
W36 × L34 SOLD OUT
W38 × L34 SOLD OUT
(see “Sizing” section above for the low-down)
Retail $249.95

Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.