Mister Freedom® “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT, 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” fiber denim, FW2023 msfc “Survival School” Edition, made in Japan.

 

The Grandfather! Original 2008 Mister Freedom® “Naval Clothing Tailor” No6284 Peacoat, “301 Okinawa” denim.
©2008 (For illustration ONLY)

Mister Freedom® Denim PEACOAT… it’s BACK! ©2023

How do I get me one of ’em peacoatshh, Pops?” The Joe Greene ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT, “301 Okinawa” fiber denim edition.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School
Made in Japan.

Our initial take on classic US Navy 10-button peacoats was the “Naval Clothing Tailor” denim Peacoat (aka mfsc 6284 Coat, Deck, Utility), released back in the sunny Spring of 2008.
The original pattern was adapted from a vintage US Coast Guard (USCG) 1920s melton wool peacoat from our archives. That first issue featured a sugarcane fiber denim shell (14 ½ Oz. “SC301 Okinawa” denim), paired with an indigo/white striped cotton ticking lining. Mine, pictured above, sadly got stollen from a display years ago.

Using the same classic pattern, we thought of going MF® OG this season, back to the early days of “Heritage Fashion”… So, please welcome the anticipated latest addition to our naval-inspired jacket family, the Grandson of our 2008 Grandpa, the FW2023 MF® “Okinawa” Denim Peacoat!

True to its ancestor, the shell fabric of the 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT is made of Sugar Cane Co’s proprietary “SC301 Okinawa” denim, a dark indigo selvedge denim blend of 50/50 recycled sugarcane fibers and cotton fibers (the ratio has evolved through seasons of production, according to raw material availability), a neppy and dry 14 Oz. thing of beauty with rewarding fading potential.

For the body lining, matching our recent Barnstormer SPECS, we opted for an all-cotton golden brown mid-wale corduroy — a reference to the hand warmer pocket bags on vintage 30s-50s USN peacoats, before the Quartermaster decided on the cheaper pocketing fabric option of an unbleached-white cotton twill.

The sleeve lining is cut from Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton-back sateen material, also an expensive and fancy fabric milled in Japan, just because we like to keep the bling on the inside sometimes.

The choice of black leather accents for pocket welt/stops is borrowed from vintage civilian 1930s “Duck Hunting Coats” out of the Montgomery Ward, Sears Roebuck or LL Bean catalogs. More on that background here. With natural wear and a few nautical miles on this NCT Peacoat, the patina and attractive color/texture contrast between the indigo denim and the black horsehide trims should get interesting on Fridays.

The “modified” double labeling — recurring branding for our msfc “Survival School” collection — is a reference to period US military experimental clothing, and a respectful nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo patterns/etc for the US military since 1952.

The MF® 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT in “SC301 Okinawa” fiber denim is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, and made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by 1910s-30s early US Navy/US Coast Guard wool peacoats.

FABRIC:
Shell: Sugar Cane Co’s proprietary “SC301 Okinawa” denim, 14 Oz. dark indigo selvedge denim blend of 50/50 recycled sugarcane fibers and cotton, neppy, dry and prickly, white with green line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Body lining: Soft 100% cotton mid-wale corduroy, golden brown shade, milled in Japan.
Sleeve lining: 100% cotton OG-107 sateen, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Classic 1910s~1930s US Navy & US Coast Guards melton wool peacoat pattern and construction.
* Ten-button front closure.
* Early USN type ’13 stars’ fouled anchor design buttons.
* Four outside pockets: two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure hip pockets, all lined with golden brown corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized to fit an average smartphone, so that you keep it tucked while you drive.)
* Leather arrowhead pocket stops/pocket welt reinforcements, black tea-core horsehide.
* Detachable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional zig-zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* “Modified” double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven/printed labels.
* Cotton-wrap poly thread tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” label topped with “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” collection-specific printed label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® 2023 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Denim PEACOAT ships raw/unwashed, and will shrink to intended/tagged size after the following initial process:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets/coats. Do not size down as the arm hole opening may become an issue. The FW2023 “Okinawa” Denim Peacoat feels a bit tighter in the chest than its Barnstormer companion.
I’m ~5’7 – 140 lbs and went for a 38 in this “301 Okinawa” denim peacoat model, even though I tend to navigate between 36 (Small) and 38 (Medium) lately.
Please check out our measurement chart and compare with a similar garment you own that fits you well. To dial in your size, also consider your layering preferences.

MF® crew sizing recs:
CL (5’7 ~ 140 lbs): I opted for a 38 (MEDIUM), trim fit with tight arm holes.
John (6’ ~ 170 lbs): 40 (LARGE)
Ivan (5’9 ~ 160 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
Enoch (6’ ~ 153 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)

CARE:
DO NOT MACHINE WASH.
This garment is too heavy and voluminous for a regular home washer, even one boasting “Heavy Duty” settings. A machine wash cycle will either ruin the jacket, the machine, or both.
Hand wash highly recommended: Fill a tub with cold water, add a minimal dose of eco-friendly detergent, immerge the garment fully, let soak for about 30mn, and delicately rub. Rinse, hang to dry.
Spot cleaning with a wet rag will usually work for minor stains.

Professional eco-friendly dry-cleaning is also an option, but may alter the indigo color.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

They’re back! Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian Lot.64 Buckle Back “Okinawa”, mfsc SS2019 restock, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64BB “OKINAWA” (worn CL perso, FW2017)

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot674 “OKINAWA” (worn CL perso, SS2017)

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse “OKINAWA” (raw) & Ranch Blouse Lot.64 (worn JG perso, FW2013)

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse Lot.64 (worn JG perso, FW2013)

 

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc SS2019 RESTOCK.
Made in USA.

These two numbers were initially released during FW2017.
All sizes of the popular Mister Freedom® “OKINAWA” Californian Lot64BB and Ranch Blouse are back in stock for SS2019.
Fabric and specs are exactly the same as the original release.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

©2019

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian Lot.64 Buckle Back “Okinawa”, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc FW2017
Made in USA

We are giving our original Ranch Blouse and classic Californian 5-pocket Blue Jeans a new handsome skin for Fall 2017, adding the updated version to our catalog of made-in-USA goodies, regrouped under MF® The SPORTSMAN label.
This fabric option is an old mfsc favorite, the mighty “Okinawa 301”, a ‘hairy’ 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, blend of 20% sugarcane fibers and 80% cotton, with a white/green line selvedge ID.
For the occasion, we also tricked-out our Californian LOT.64 by adding a rear cinch (aka buckle-back), thereby introducing yet another member to the Californian family, the LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” with its midnight blue flasher.

The “Okinawa” denim has enviable fading abilities and will progressively develop a desirable patina overtime, with normal wear/wash cycles.
However, it is less the denim type than the actual wearer that should be credited for amazing fade patterns, as demonstrated by the few jaw-dropping worn specimen of MF® Ranch Blouses sported by friends from Thailand, members of the Pronto Denim gang of workwear aficionados. See some examples below.
Not sure what this fine crew does to those jackets, but the results are incredible! Thank you for the commitment and support, Gentlemen. Don’t hesitate to submit a photo (hi-res) of your worn Ranch Blouse to sales@misterfreedom.com (with your full name for proper credit), we’ll happily add them to this gallery and our Mess of Blues line-up!
For more Instagram indigo adventures from the Land of Smiles, check out this denim squad (apologies if i didn’t get the names right):
Mr. Kang Chantrasri (Kan745)
Mr. Yuttapon (Yuttapon23)
Mr. Aticha Tragunthanan (aticha_acha)
Mr. Nueng (Nueng_n93), …
For more cool photos from this fine denimhead community, check out the Mister Freedom® Thailand Gang Facebook group.

The Californian LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” and Ranch Blouse “Okinawa”, which can be purchased separately, are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from selvedge denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS CALIFORNIAN LOT.64 BB “Okinawa”

FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301”, a hairy 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
POCKET BAGS:
VintageFrench New Old Stock (NOS) woven stripe workwear twill, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* French vintage NOS stripe fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Unbranded natural cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with special 2016 Election red and white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (midnight blue).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.64 BB “Okinawa” blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
The size that will work for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear my usual Californian blue jeans W32 in the LOT.64 BB, for a comfortable fit.
The fit pix show a pair of W32, cold-soaked once, worn on/off for about 1 week, with some more shrinkage/stretching down the line.
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.

Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Retail $329.95

SPECS RANCH BLOUSE “Okinawa”

FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301”, a hairy 14 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, white with green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
FACING:
French vintage New Old Stock (NOS) woven stripe workwear twill, 100% cotton.
DETAILS:
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* French vintage NOS stripe workwear twill facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Metal cast MF® branded buttons, ‘oxidized’.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer.
* Combination yellow/orange 100% cotton stitching.
* Original mfsc printed cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING FIT:
The Ranch Blouse “Okinawa” comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in the “Okinawa” version, a cold-soaked 38. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail $379.95

DENIM CARE:
Wash denim jeans and jackets when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

©2017

“SACO LOCOMOTORA” Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” collection, Part 2/7) Made in USA

 

Loco Jacket montage Mister Freedom® ©2013

CL Loco, one month wear ©2013 Mister Freedom®

 

Mister Freedom® MFSC “Saco LOCOMOTORA”, made in USA.
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2013

 

Hinting at an instrumental tool of the Mexican Revolution here is our SACO LOCOMOTORA, aka El Loco as we call it around here.

The railroad system in Mexico played a major part in the unfolding of the Revolution. Many folk songs (Máchina 501 for instance, or many other tunes played by la Banda Tlayacapan who accompanied General Zapata during the war) celebrate the key role of that modern mean of transportation. Trains allowed the speedy transport of troops to the front lines, turned hospitals on wheels with families tagging along, or were used as plain torpedoes loaded with explosives.

In 1911, Emiliano ‘El incorruptible’ Zapata met with Francisco Madero, freshly cheated of the National election by Porfirio Diaz, to discuss strategy for the fight to regain power.
The meeting place? Colonia railroad station, aboard Zapata’s famous steam locomotive No. 279, his headquarter since 1909. That historical steam Engine has survived and a restored version can still be seen if you take a trip down Cuautla way, State of Morelos, southern Mexico.

Machina 279, Morelos Museum, photo ©Manfred Schweda Zapata waiting for Madero 1911 ©Fondo Casasola Railroad workers, Indianilla 1922 ©Fodo Casasola

For our first ‘iron horse’ related garment, we designed a type of denim railroad jacket ‘from scratch’, keeping a ‘local artisan made’ feel to it. We combined elements of twill work-wear jackets, both from the Old and New World, resulting in a cross-breed between a European work coat and a classic American denim Railroad jacket.

We kept a shorter silhouette for El Loco, somewhat typical of period Charro suit jackets.
The deep side wrap copper-riveted pockets were designed to hold wrenches, rags, log books and various mechanic’s tools. They will also hold a wallet or an iPhone, should these prove more useful to you during the day 😉
The split back panel pattern displays the denim selvedge on the inside, which will result in ‘tracks’ (bada bing), naturally showing after repeat wear and sofa staining.

As with our Vaquero Blue Jeans, we are using an original indigo dyed left hand twill denim developed by Sugar Cane Co in Japan, referred to as “Okinawa 301“. It blends cotton yarn with recycled sugar cane fibers (50/50) in a strong, slubby, hairy, coarse denim twill, guaranteed to age beautifully.

The green accents of the button holes/eyelets are reminiscent of older American work-wear details, green also being a color not foreign to the Mexican National Flag.

We opted for corozo wood detachable buttons (aka ring buttons), a typical feature of early work and military coats, that allowed washing the garment without its hardware.
The collar shape and angle is a nod to turn of the Century patterns.

Using flat felled seams and single machine construction we had el Loco made in Los Angeles, California, as a collaboration with partner in crime Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern. Designed by Mister Freedom® and combining elements of early work coats from Europe and USA.
FABRIC: Raw 14 Oz. indigo dyed selvedge denim, left hand twill. 50% cotton blended with 50% recycled sugar cane fibers. White selvedge with green ID line. Milled in Japan.
Note: For detail orientated folks, the collar facing is made of NOS 12 Oz. selvedge Cone denim, same fabric as the Californian Lot.54
DETAILS:
* Shorter silhouette.
* Six high button front style, allowing easy access to higher waist style trousers pockets. Detail also typical of horseback riding coats, allowing the jacket to ‘break’ at the proper place when fully buttoned.
* Single piece front panels, no shoulder yoke.
* Adjustable side cinch straps, with vintage NOS metal buckles.
* Corozo wood detachable ‘ring’ buttons.
* Green color button holes and eyelets.
* Deep wrap pockets, double compartment.
* Concealed left chest pocket, made of NOS stripe cotton twill.
* Selvedge used in split back, button front panel/pockets/cuffs facing.
* Single needle and chain stitch flat felled seams, with 100% cotton tonal thread stitching.
* Designed and Made in the USA.

PACKAGING: An original MF® denim bag, made in our studio, to sling around for your next trip to the local organic Farmer’s market.

SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
The “Okinawa 301” denim is RAW and unsanforized. Overall shrinkage from rinsing/washing should be about 5% to 8%, according to water temperature. This fiber denim will shrink with an original cold soak and line dry. It will expand a bit again with wear, then shrink again with subsequent rinsing. This normal evolution should settle after a while.
El Loco will shrink to TAGGED size.
We recommend an original cold soak (about 30mn, no agitation), spin cycle and line dry. This will get you minimal shrinkage and retain ~100% of the indigo color. Some bleeding is expected with normal wear (from blue hands to blue armpits. Indigo bleeding will wash off.)

As always, boiling is not recommended (too much color loss), just get your size.
Remember that you will not get beautiful patina from extensive unneeded washing, but rather from repeat wear.
I usual wear a 38 (Medium) in all mfsc jackets, and I wear a 38 in this denim coat.

Note: The photos above are from a slightly worn jacket, showing very minimal wear after an original cold soak. Production is UNWORN and raw.

Please refer to sizing chart below for approximate raw/cold soak measurements:

Loco Jacket Sizing chart Mister Freedom®

Available RAW/Unwashed.

SIZES
36 (small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)

Retail $439.95

Call or mail sales@misterfreedom.com at 323-653-2014 to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, Señoras y Caballeros.