Deck Pants, Type N-1Z, Indigo-dyed jungle cloth
“Sea Hunt” mfsc collection Fall 2014
Some of us like indigo. Some of us like jungle cloth. Those who like neither are in for a treat with this special number. Double punishment.
We have revisited and ‘simplified’ an old trousers pattern we introduced in 2008, the mfsc N-1K deck pants (“N-1” was for the 1940’s USN deck jacket reference, “K” was for the USAF type K-1 flight suit that inspired the pattern of the front patch pockets). There’s nothing wrong with knocking yourself out once in a while, before Dong does it.
Everyone is by now familiar with “Jungle Cloth”, a Bedford cord type fabric. This tightly woven cotton, distantly related to the corduroy family, has somewhat of a water repellent quality, and was used quite extensively by the US Navy in the 1920’s-1940’s period, as the fabric of choice for some of the foul weather gear.
Our durable 14 oz. jungle cloth is pretty much mil-specs, with a MF® spin on the color. We had the fabric indigo-dyed for the occasion, a dark shade of indigo blue. The color is light-sensitive, and meant to fade naturally with regular wash/wear cycles. The front patch pockets are using the warp of the fabric horizontally, subtlety contrasting with the vertical grain of the legs. Overtime, the natural patina will highlight the interesting juxtaposition of one fabric going in two directions. We’ll be posting evo photos on the Hall of Fade sometime next year…
The rear pocket pattern has the same origin than our “Sea Hunt” Spring 2014 Crew Pants.
The overall pattern of these pants is a mix between utilitarian and military. The N-1Z features a 40’s-type black oxidized cotton tape CONMAR zipper, a new contender soon to spice up the groin-zoom photo contest of our sizzling Instagram account, when it’s eventually brought up to speed.
The N-1Z deck pants are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Fabric milled and indigo-dyed in Japan
Disclaimer: Please note that the photos are displaying my own (soaked and slightly worn 4-5 times) pair of N-1Z. Production comes unwashed/unworn, of course.
* Durable 14 Oz. all cotton “Jungle Cloth”, indigo-dyed in a rich dark indigo blue shade. Milled and indigo-dyed in Japan.
* Pattern inspired by vintage utility and military trousers, and Air Force flight suits.
* Patch pockets, front and rear.
* Zipper fly, vintage-type CONMAR, black oxidized color, cotton tape.
* Oxidized metal donut waist button.
* Waistband facing lined with Buzz Rickson’s USN-type chambray.
* Full flat-felled seam construction.
* 100% cotton stitching, black color.
* Made in Japan.
Our deck pants come raw/unwashed.
We recommend an original cold soak, spin dry cycle, line dry. These are intentionally not cut like skinny pants, and boiling them won’t change that. The N-1Z have a comfortable waist/leg fit. They will shrink to tagged size after the recommended original soak.
Color croaking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments such as white tucked-in undershirts. Indigo rub-off washes off eventually, this is the nature of the indigo beast.
When cleaning is needed, turn inside out and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Do not use a heat dryer. The jungle cloth is very durable and will resist washing machine cycles without a problem, but the indigo will react to excessive and unnecessary agitation by leaving unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out. The first years of care are important to guarantee a nice indigo wear patina.
Please refer to chart for cold soak/line dry measurements. Keep in mind that our cold soak method results in minimal shrinkage.
Waist Sizes: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38