Mister Freedom® “NOUVELLE VAGUE” Slacks & Continental Sportcoat, NOS cotton-linen crosshatch “PLAYER” denim. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® “NOUVELLE VAGUE” Slacks & Continental Sportcoat, NOS cotton-linen crosshatch “PLAYER” denim.
mfsc SS2023 “Sportsman” catalog.
Made in USA
.

Mister Freedom® “NOUVELLE VAGUE” slacks and Continental Sportcoat… le comeback!
We just cut our latest trouser pattern in an mfsc old flame, the swingiest denim twill this side of a Monte Carlo black jack table, the dance hall hustler’s favorite, none other than the “PLAYER” denim!

The ‘Player’ is a 10.5 Oz. crosshatch denim twill, light indigo moss blue-green color, a slubby weave of cotton-linen blend (linen or similar natural vegetal fiber), with a 1960’s ‘sharkskin’-type sheen, milled in Europe. We first introduced this fancy fabric with the “Player” Continental three-piece Suit.

Recently released in NOS Slate Grey and Charcoal Grey denim twills, our “Nouvelle Vague” slacks pattern is inspired by an unusual pair of vintage late 50s/early 60s French casual cotton twill pants from our archives, probably tailor-made according to the simple seam construction, and the fact that they bore no branding. We revisited the design to merge the vibes of dressy slacks and denim jeans.
The frogmouth front pockets, single rear flap pocket, extended tab waistband with snap closure, narrow belt loops, choice of fabrics and unpretentious suiting vibe all blend together to give the trousers a “French Riviera” casual 1950s-60s fashion flair.
We kept the overlock inseam/outseam/seat construction of the vintage custom-made original, for easy fit alterations with a single-needle machine. See the original twill pants below, with a bit of the R&D process.

To add an irresistible 60’s-70’s ‘leisure suit’ touch to our “Player” set, we enhanced the construction with an orange/yellow combo contrast stitching. Now that’s fly, borderline funky fresh.
The lining/pocketing are also New Old Stock finds, fancy woven stripe 100% cotton twill for the Sportcoat, and 100% cotton “Americana” woven stripe for the slacks. Two distinct fabrics, but similar, conveying an old-school hustling tailor inclination to use-up all available lining fabrics on hand.

The ‘Player” Continental sportcoat and Nouvelle Vague slacks are offered separately, but are available as a specially-priced “Huggy Bear” set, for the stylish high-rolling good fella keen on the Las Vegas meets French Riviera look.

The MF® Continental Sportcoat and Nouvelle Vague Slacks “Player” Edition suit is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
All original mfsc (Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co) sportcoat, and trousers patterns, a classic blend of 1950s, 60s and 70s vibes and silhouettes, mixing European and American vintage styles.

FABRIC:
NOS 10.5 Oz. crosshatch denim twill, light indigo moss blue-green color, slubby weave of cotton-linen blend (linen or similar natural vegetal fiber), with a 1960’s ‘sharkskin’-type sheen, milled in Europe.
Lining/pocketing: Mix of New Old Stock fancy woven stripe, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:

“PLAYER” Continental SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and soft, perfect traveling companion.
* High 4-button front, classic notched lapel.
* Amber color corrozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining.
* Side hip patch pockets with flaps, single chest patch pocket.
* Concealed (passport) chest pocket.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with backing fabric.
* Form-fitting no-vent back panel.
* Contrast orange 100% cotton stitching, clean caballo flat-felled seam construction, no open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

“PLAYER” Nouvelle Vague SLACKS:
* Vintage French 1950s-60s fashion, casual yet elegant sportswear vibe.
* Straight leg period silhouette.
* “Frogmouth” front pockets.
* Button fly, corrozo wood buttons.
* Extended waistband tab with snap waist closure, featuring original MF® branded brass snap button.
* Single rear welt pocket with buttoned flap.
* Slim belt loops, will accommodate 1¼ wide MF® x VEB belts.
* Fancy woven stripe pocketing.
* Flat front & darted rear panel for an attractive top block side profile.
* Overlock inseam/outseam/seat construction.
* Tonal stitching.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed under the belt.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
This
 explains how we size and measure our garments.
The MF® “Player” Continental Sportcoat and Nouvelle Vague Slacks both come raw/unwashed.
We recommend this usual routine before wearing the garment, as the tagged size reflects the measured size after going through this simple process:

  • Cold soak in a tub for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Line dry.

Both sportcoat and slacks are considered true-to size. The “Player” denim fabric and the stripe cotton lining are pretty much sanforized, but puckering and roping resulting from the rinsing process will slightly alter the fit and drape.
Please refer to sizing chart for post cold soak measurements.
At 5’7 and ~145 lbs, I opted for a comfortable size 38 Sportcoat and slim W30 slacks (some of the fit photos feature a W31 prototype.)

Trousers hemming: After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The crispy cotton-linen fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you.
I went with a DIY blind (hand) stitch 1¼ inch hem.
Make sure you fully rinse the garment before you commit to cropping the leg to your cuffing preference. Style-wise, we recommend hemming and not “roll-up” cuffing.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE when laundering is needed, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Refrain from using the “heavy-duty” cycle setting on your home washer. Using a heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo original California State tribute “CALI-JAN” souvenir jacket, Limited Edition, crafted in Japan, 2023

 

 

 

MF® “CALI-JAN” souvenir jacket
Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo 2023
Made in Japan

Our initial collaboration on an old-school souvenir-type jacket with “Tailor Toyo” was the Party Jacket” (2015 Saigon Cowboy collection, aka Charlie-gate), followed by the “Mururoa Jacket” (mfsc 2016 Anniversary Collection) and moon landing with the “Apollo ’69 Jacket” in 2017.

Tailor Toyo is undeniably the world’s most legit manufacturer of traditional  Sukajan (スカジャン) garments, i.e. the flashy embroidered jackets everyone into heritage fashion is familiar with today. See my 2015 ramblings for a deep dive into the historical background of those jackets.
For those noticing the “Kosho & Co” paper tags, this was an old established Japanese fabric trading company. It merged with TOYO Enterprises around 1965. Tailor Toyo took over Kosho’s souvenir jackets’ business at the time, and has been considered the most legit producer of traditional and authentic Sukajan since.

The name “Sukajan” originated in the port of YOKOSUKA, Japan, sometime in the late 1940s. After becoming a U.S. Navy base in 1946, local traditional silk embroidery tailors started seeing a demand for customized uniforms, eventually leading to creating flashy original custom-made jackets (jumpers) for military personnel stationed in occupied Japan. The jackets, featuring elaborate Japanese motifs and at-times boasting unit/branch pride blended with local flavor, were intended to be worn off-duty, or as bring-home souvenirs. Kid-size Sukajan that pop up on the vintage market once in a while are surviving examples of happy  “Daddy’s home!” moments.

This customization practice was probably inherited from the old naval tradition of personalizing one’s gear (hand-painted sea bags with mermaids and the likes, concealed hand-stitched “branding” eventually evolving into the concept of “liberty cuffs”), and taken to the next level by the US Asiatic Fleet touring exotic locations where skilled tailors offered their services for affordable bespoke uniforms.

After some sustained popularity with post-WWII American troops stationed in Europe and with US Armed Forces during the Korean War (1950-53), the Sukajan made a splashy comeback with boots on the ground involved in the Vietnam conflict (1954-75).

Those 1960s-era South-East Asia Sukajan are also referred-to as Viet-Jan (aka Vietjan, or vietojam, whatever works phonetically in Japan.) These are often way less PC than their Japanese forefathers. Most vintage VietJan convey the gung-ho vibe of period military morale patches, not exactly everyone’s cup of tea – or rather “half oat milk/half regular organic milk iced cappuccino, I appreciate you, thanks” – in today’s new paradigm of softer “cancel culture”.

Embroidery designs to choose from in local shops were many while in country. The catchy rocker “When I die I’ll go to Heaven because I’ve spent my time in Hell” was a popular classic, often riding atop a colored map of South East Asia, with North Vietnam, South Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia embroidered in four primary colors. Thailand got lost, blending in the color of the jacket base fabric.

The style of embroidery techniques and jacket bodies greatly differed according to the Theater of Operation. Japan-made Sukajan mostly flashed elaborate machine-made embroideries using fine silk threads on rayon acetate or velvet bodies, and were often reversible. A more discreet “B” side was an option the wearer might find better suited for specific occasions or civvy crowds. Vietjan tended to feature hand-stitched cotton yarn embroideries on a cheap black cotton twill body, or a GI-issued ERDL poncho liner, and lined with whatever recycled fabric was around. Authentic vintage Sukajan and Vietjan are highly collectible today, and valuable slices of History no one can/should erase.

For our CALI-JAN project, we wanted to merge both vintage 1950s Sukajan and 1960s Vietjan vibes, and, for the graphics, remove military references while paying tribute to our beautiful State of California… Simple task. After a bit of creative R&D, eureka, we had our “could have existed” design plan!

We decided to go with a map of California as the main rear panel statement, but in the style of Vietjan four-color maps. Versions of this idea had been explored before, but, from what I quickly gathered on the interwebs, using cheap silkscreening prints or computer-operated embroidery machines producing mass volumes, rather than the authentic period style hand-operated machines that actually required an operator’s dedication and skills. This artisanal way of applying embroidered motifs is sometimes referred-to as “free embroidery” (i.e. not automatic/programmed), where the operator moves the fabric panel under the fine needle in order to fill-in sections/render shading/change direction etc.
Anyone who’s tried their hands at old-school chain-stitching with an antique Cornely or Singer 114w103, although a totally different process and set of skills, may relate to the tediousness and challenge.

On the graphic front, we had room to play, these are the references for the “A” side:

First off, blue and gold is not only a traditional and desirable color combo for 1950s vintage rayon acetate Sukajan, but they also happen to be the official colors of the State of California.

On the chest stands the mighty JOE GREENE, our 12 yo Toy Poodle, 8 1/2 pounds of pure resilience and badassness, venerated patriarch of the MF® family.

“Cowabunga, dude” is an expression associated with vintage surfing culture (surf is the actual official sport of the State of CA), a dated line roughly meaning “cool, man!” while conveying surprise. Joe (like Charlie) don’t surf, but he’s 100% California native.

The Joshua tree is an endangered and very rare species of US Southwest desert trees, symbol of JT National Park and the Mojave Desert, and CA desert culture. Don’t mess with them.

For the map graphic, there are several ways to split California in sections, some politically controversial. We opted for the four main natural geographical regions. Yellow is the Pacific Coast, blue are the mountainous areas, green the Central Valley, and red the desert.

We playfully only selected a few cities to highlight:
* Sacramento: makes sense as our State Capital.
* San Francisco: not referenced on the map by its usual Golden Gate Bridge but rather by Frank Bullitt’s 1968 “highland green” Ford Mustang GT.
* Bakersfield: small town, home of the Bakersfield Sound (a specific Country & Western music style/sound), pinned on the map by Buck Owens’ Mosrite Guitar-made patriotic red/white/blue acoustic, brought to fame on his popular TV show Hee-Haw.
* Los Angeles: of course, Mister Freedom®’s home at 7161 Beverly Blvd, surrounded by iconic California poppies, our beautiful official state flower.
* Santa Catalina Island: my favorite CA island, thanks to a few fabulous Aliens from out of this world (Allyn/Scott/Jillian/John/Mario/…)
Norma Jeane is striking the pose on a beach in Avalon, far from Hollywood’s spotlights. She briefly lived on the island in the mid 1940s with her first husband, one lucky Merchant Marine.

The waves and hand-drawn cursive lettering are inspired by traditional Japanese Sukajan styles.

We opted for a quilted “A” side, inspired by that vintage New Old Stock “Kosho & Co” Sukajan I scored around 1992 in an Oklahoma City, OK, remote Salvation Army store, a fun anecdote related here if you’re bored.

For the “B” side, we opted for a complimenting rayon blue/red color combo, non-quilted construction.

The hand-drawn “California” lettering of the back has more of a vintage satin baseball jacket style, reminiscent of 1950s club jackets. Spin some old school street-corner harmonies like “The Wanderer” (1961) by Dion & the Belmonts and watch the 1979 flick for the Wanderers gang ref.

The California Republic’s “brown grizzly bear walking a patch of green grass” adopted in 1911 was an obvious choice for the “B” side chest, flanked by a thorny succulent, because who doesn’t like a wheel cactus…

Our choice of traditional two-sided red/white/blue ribbed knit trims for cuffs/waistband/collar completes the picture. This loosely-knit wool blend ribbing is typical of authentic Sukajan, and is a far cry from contemporary stretchy elastic webbing used on modern athletic jackets.

As always, the design part (i.e. doodling) was the easiest. Rough drawings and confusingly-worded round-eye instructions were passed on to the experts at Tailor Toyo. They looked at it all, stared at each other, shook heads and rolled eyes, yet went to work to make it all happen!
Sketches were translated into embroidery patterns for sample making. Many adjustments followed until everyone was happy with the final prototype.

Months later, expert embroidery machine craftsmen with decades of experience worked their magic for one single, labor-intensive very limited production run.

There it is.

The MF® x Tailor Toyo “CALI-JAN” souvenir jacket is designed in California, USA by Mister Freedom®, and crafted with love in limited edition in Japan by Toyo Enterprise.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original mfsc/Tailor Toyo pattern inspired by 1950s Sukajan and 1960s Vietjan souvenir/tour jackets.

FABRIC:
Fine 100% rayon acetate twill “A” and “B” sides.
Quilted “A” side with 100% cotton fiber batting (padding).

DETAILS:
* Authentic vintage Japan-made “souvenir jacket” style, inspired by 1950s-1960s off-duty custom-made jackets sported by US Armed Forces personnel stationed “in country”.
* All original MF® artwork, blending vintage Sukajan and Vietjan aesthetics.
* Fully reversible, “A” side blue/gold with quilted pattern, and “B” side dark red/blue.
* Traditional Sukajan silk thread embroidery work performed by expert Japanese craftsmen with decades of experience on hand-operated “free-embroidery” machines.
* Vintage-style double-sided (reversible) “TYE Tokyo” metal zipper.
* Traditional 100% cotton batting backing for quilted “A” side.
* Vintage-style soft wool knit trims, loosely-knit ribbing as 1950s Sukajan originals.
* Double labelling (inside slash pocket on blue side), featuring both KOSHO & Co (the original name of the Yokohama fabric trading company that would merge with TOYO Enterprises around 1965, today the World’s most respected sukajan manufacturer under the “Tailor Toyo” label), alongside the MF® rayon woven label.
* Limited collector’s edition.
* Designed in USA.
* Crafted in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® CALI-JAN souvenir jacket has been carefully processed (rinsed and steamed) by experienced sukajan-expert garment professionals.
It has a vintage appearance due to the light puckering of the stitching and embroidery, and subtle shrinking of the rayon fabric. Do not attempt to hot-soak or wash this garment, it has already been processed and is ready-to-wear.
The CALI-JAN may be considered true-to-size by some, or running a bit small for others, according to body types and fit expectations. It features a slightly longer body than some of the original vintage Sukajan with their often shrunken and cropped bodies.

I now navigate between MEDIUM and SMALL in mfsc jackets, and opted for a Medium in the CALI-JAN. The SMALL fit better in length for my tastes, but was too tight in the chest. I am ~ 5.7′ / 145 Lbs.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. Note that due to the raglan sleeve pattern, arm length is measured from armpit (not shoulder seam) to knit cuff.

CARE:
Professional dry clean ONLY, in your local eco-friendly dry-cleaning facility.
Again, DO NOT wash this jacket! This is quite a fragile garment, due to both the nature of the fine rayon twill and the intricate delicate silk-thread embroidery that could snag easily. In other words, this garment is not intended for gardening.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

The Bronc’s back! Mister Freedom® BRONCO CHAMP Type II, veg-tan cowhide leather, natural & black tea-core edition. Made in USA.

 

Aaaaai…

 

 

My MF® Bronco Champ Type II today (August 2023), natural veg-tan cowhide, with sunshine exposure, conditioning and some miles.

MF® BRONCO CHAMP Type II, veg-tan cowhide, natural & black tea-core edition.
mfsc FW2022 HOOPER Collection
Made in USA

Mister Freedom® OGs may remember our first 1960s cafe racer style leather jacket, the MF® Bronco Champ Type I.
A heavy hitter in the “Speed-Safe Clothing for Modern Riders” line-up, the Type I was produced in Japan in 2009, and released in several horsehide options and color combinations.

Sonny Hooper called and said he’d like to see a comeback of that bad boy for a new stunt, so we listened.

We decided to have the Bronco Champ Type II made in the USA this time around, at the same small factory that has been producing our Mister Freedom® leather classics since 2013. That team of expert craftsmen is responsible for the MF® Campus, Ranch BlouseRingo”, “Randall” and “Bison”, the “Baloo”, and the “Lawrence”. They know what they’re doing.

The original design of the MF® Bronco Champ was inspired by 1940s~1970s motorcycle jacket styles (vintage Block-Bilt, Buco, Bates etc…), when leather was the best thing available to protect riders from spills, should one forget the old “Keep the rubber side down” biker’s adage.

The body pattern/fit was adapted from a vintage 1950s “Taubers of California” single rider’s jacket from my closet, a cut also referred to as cafe racer (as opposed to the “Brando style” double rider’s jacket.) Early advertising sometimes promoted those as “leather shirts” or “competition shirts”.
Another source of inspiration for the original MF® Bronco Champ was a 1960s racing jacket from the “ABC Leather” maker, a snazzy cream and red little number with stars on the sleeves I used to wear around, which also made an appearance in Japanese fashion magazine “Free & Easy” (the original “Dad’s Style” reference for round eyes) in 2005, back when I thought inhaling smoke was a good idea.

At the drafting table, I decided at the time to do the unthinkable, and mess with the timeless minimalist front panel design of single rider’s jackets by adding a D-pocket! Heresy.
It is commonly accepted that D-pockets have their design/purpose origin in early aviator clothing (1920s-30s), and made their way to double rider’s motorcycle jackets sometimes in the 1940s, as clothing companies probably figured there will always be less flyers than bikers as potential customers.
D-pockets are not found on classic single rider’s jacket, usually designed with one or two small chest zip pockets. Intended as glove-fitting racing “shirts”, a chest pocket the size of a pack of smokes was all one needed on the racetrack.

I remember sewing together a prototype D-pocket, and positioning it on my 50s Taubers to find the sweet spot… After a bit of visual acclimation, I thought the tweak could qualify as another one of those vintage design “might have been” (aka “didn’t exist but could have”, our Mister Freedom® design motto to this day), and we went for it.
Turned out that not only does that utility pocket (map/gloves + coin pocket combo) work visually, but the extra storage definitely helps with EDC when going for a casual ride. Little did I know I’d be tethered to a small computer everywhere I go 15 years later. That D-pocket is perfect to carry a cel phone.

The addition of a “teardrop” bottom snap fastener tab also comes from the MF® mad lab, a detail lifted from a 1930s workwear jacket throat latch, if I remember well, and I don’t. That tab not only looks pretty cool with its attractive curves, but it also serves the very useful purpose of limiting stress on the bottom of the front zipper. Vintage leather jacket collectors with busted zipper cotton tapes will appreciate.

The zipper models of the Type II have also been updated, after the 1930s “Hookless” replica of the Type I proved unreliable. We stuck with 100% cotton tape (didn’t cave in to modern shiny poly-cotton tape) but opted for a sturdier slider/teeth construction with a vintage 1950s-vibe bell-shaped “Universal” pull tab (with extra leather pulls a gloved rider will appreciate.)
We had considered the chunkier heavy duty aluminum alloy Talon zipper style of 1970s single rider’s jackets in R&D  (featured on some of the “sunshine” prototypes photos here), but wanted to keep the sleek look of earlier zippers.
Struggling to zip-up an old leather jacket? The trick is to always make sure the insert pin is fully lodged in the retaining box (look up zipper parts) before gently zipping up. Do not yank on the pull, as you often see the uninitiated do in vintage clothing stores, when trying on a perfectly-preserved 80 year-old jacket, and jamming the zipper or tearing the tape… Routinely rubbing the teeth (both sides) with bees wax is also good maintenance habit for old school metal zippers.
The chest pockets and D-pocket feature classic 1950s-style chain type pulls.
The double snap stand collar (also referred to in vintage paper ads as “turtleneck collar”), double chest zip pockets, and zipped cuffs are borrowed from traditional single rider’s motorcycle jackets.
The generic snaps of the Type I have also been upgraded to our own mfsc branded brass fasteners.
The one-piece panel back made selecting the hides and figuring out yield more challenging for the expert cutter, but is visually more pleasing than the cheaper spliced back option.

Now for the leather…
We went with veg-tan cowhide for the Bronco Champ Type II, same sturdy grade as our current Campus jackets that we have developed years ago with a local tannery, about 3-4 Oz weight.

The Bronco Champ Type II is released in a natural color option (un-dyed white/pinkish leather that will develop rich golden tones overtime, with normal wear/exposure to elements/conditioning – see the evolution potential of our “Sunshine” specimen -), and a black tea-core version (also exclusively developed with a local tannery) featuring a black topcoat on a natural-color flesh side that will also age and patina gracefully.

Spoiler alert: For those into stealing the show out on the racetrack, and as a nod to the 2009 Type I, we are also working on a fancy two-tone black/bison “racing” model, release TBD.

For the lining, our signature classic red 1950s-style all-cotton brushed flannel with a printed plaid pattern brings a splash of color and an authentic vintage vibe to the garment.

The MF® Bronco Champ Type II is made and designed in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original Mister Freedom® pattern, freely inspired by 1940s to 1970s motorcycle jackets, in the classic single rider’s style.

SHELL:
Two color options:
a) Natural vegetable-tanned (veg-tan) full grain cowhide leather. This white/pinkish leather will develop rich golden tones and patina overtime.
b) Black veg-tan “Tea-Core” full grain cowhide leather, black topcoat with natural-color flesh side, milled and supple, about 3-4 Oz weight.
Lining:
Our signature classic 1950s-style red printed plaid brushed flannel, 100% cotton, for a splash of color and an authentic vintage vibe.

NOTE: The Mister Freedom® Bronco Champ is made of genuine leather. We use full-grain, and not top-grain leather (aka “corrected” or “buffed” leather, sanded to level surface inconsistencies). No two hides are alike and each panel may feature slight variations in texture along with natural imperfections.

DETAILS:
* An original pattern blending vintage motorcycle jackets styles.
* Trim glove-fitting single-breasted cut, 1950s-1960s vibe.
* Original “D” pocket design (zipper utility pocket for map/gloves + snap coin pocket combo)
* Double snap fastener stand collar.
* “Universal” nickel zipper front closure, 1950s style bell-shaped pull.
* Extra leather zip pulls for easy grab when wearing gloves.
* Double chest pockets with “Universal” nickel chain pull zippers.
* Gusseted zipped cuffs for wind-tight sleeves.
* Fully lined with soft 100% cotton printed brushed flannel.
* Original mfsc branded brass snap fasteners.
* Waist snap fastening tab.
* Single panel back.
* Mister Freedom® “Sportsman” rayon neck label.
* Designed and produced in California in limited quantities.

SIZING:
The Bronco Champ is designed to fit close to the body, as classic single-breasted leather racing jackets were intended to.
This garment is ready to wear as-is. No pre-conditioning needed. Wear and ride.
I opted for a MEDIUM, to allow layering during winter. The SMALL fit me better with a simple T, but I intend to wear the jacket more during colder months. I’m 5’7 ~145 Lbs.
Proper fit is subjective so please check our measurements (and how we measure), and compare with a similar garment you own and enjoy the fit of.
Any questions, please contact sales@misterfreedom.com as the MF® Team will have feedback and proper knowledge to help you dial in your size.

CARE:
* MF® Bronco Champ natural veg-tan:
Because of its initial un-dyed light color, the MF® Bronco Champ is prone to get soiled, water marked etc easily. Don’t panic with your first stain, scratch or grease spot, this is part of the tough life of a leather jacket, your second skin. Almost anything applied to light-colored leather will alter its appearance permanently.
For those desiring to kick-start the patina with sun exposure and natural tanning of the leather, please refer to our “Sunshine” process inspired by our friend John VEB V.
Pecard offers quality leather dressing.
Remember the good words of Sonny Hooper: “A brand new leather motorcycle jacket will always feel its worth and look its worst on day one.”

* MF® Bronco Champ black tea-core:
On the same note, embrace the fact that the “Tea-Core” leather is prone to get nicked and scratched, revealing the natural color under-layer, unavoidably showing signs of wear. Occasional conditioning when needed (according to actual frequency of wear and activities) will contribute to an attractive natural patina, and a healthy-looking leather.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles red brick HQ.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt, corduroy edition, FW2022 mfsc HOOPER collection. Made in Japan.

New MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Ruby Red version, Day 1 of an experimental “Sunshine” treatment.

MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Ruby Red, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness.

MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Indigo Blue, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness.

MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Black, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness.

 

MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, new and month-long “Sunshine” treatment (only experimental)

 

Original “Stunt Gladiators of Hollywood” wooden truck tailgate from the 1978 movie HOOPER, now hanging at MF® HQ, scored in a California Desert thrift store, sometime in 2021!

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, corduroy edition.
FW2022 mfsc HOOPER Collection.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics was our first traditional “Western snap” shirt.

Its much fancier successor, the all-original MF® “DUDE RANCHER”, is our second spin on a western-style shirt pattern. The pattern is inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts from our archives, each with specific variations of a style pioneered by Rockmount Ranch Wear legendary CEO Jack Weil starting circa 1946. “Papa Jack”, as he was called, is credited as the father of the modern Western shirt, and the first “designer” to opt for snap button closure, vs. the earlier 1930s shank button styles.

Our DUDE RANCHER pattern was of course twisted MF® style and has become a Mister Freedom® staple since its 2019 poplin debut in our catalog. It definitely became popular in Italy… It is today available in a wide range of old school fabrics.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes, but we decided on arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “costumey”. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Another distinctive design choice are the painted metal snaps, reminiscent of sought-after vintage 1950s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell western shirts, as previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional Western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The fabric choice for this “HOOPER” edition is inspired by a mid 1950s vintage dressy corduroy shirt from our archives, bearing the famous Texas-made defunct “Tem-Tex” label. Corduroy western-cut shirts are quite unusual, so the fabric became a good candidate for us. We sourced out a Japan-milled fancy all-cotton 14W grade (14 wales per inch), similar to the Tem-Tex original, in a rich Ruby Red, Ivory White, genuine Indigo Blue, and Black options.
Our choice of black rayon fabric as the collar band facing is also a reference to the fancy Tem-Tex specimen.

Vintage 1950s “TEM-TEX” Western shirt from the Mister Freedom® Archives, color inspiration for the MF® Dude Rancher 2022 corduroy edition.

We went for tonal stitching on three of the color options, but decided to jazz-up the indigo version with an attractive contrast yellow/gold thread combo. Finer than frog hair if you ask me.

To experiment with color fastness, and because chemically-distress garments are against our religion, we submitted three samples to the California sun for about a month. The body of the shirts were stuffed with paper and set on mannequins fully exposed to the elements, moved around occasionally, same process as our Sunshine Edition Ts & jackets. These experimental prototypes are photographed here for potential “evo” reference only, not available for purchase.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER Western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy 100% cotton 14W corduroy, milled in Japan.

Four color options: Ruby Red, Ivory White, Indigo Blue (genuine indigo), and Black.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s Western-style shirts.
* Original Western-wear arcuate front and back yokes combo.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching. (Indigo version features fancy yellow/orange combo contrast stitching)
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label, blending well with our “HOOPER” storyline.
* Made in Japan, slowly produced.

SIZING/FIT:
The corduroy MF® DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I opted for a MEDIUM on this corduroy version of the DUDE RANCHER, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit. (I’m 5.7’’ approx. 145 Lbs.)
Please note that I sized down on earlier versions, so do
refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked measurements to properly dial in your size.
This is how we measure. Please use those guidelines to compare measurements of a garment of a similar style you own (i.e. a shirt), and that fits according to your liking.
When in doubt, reach out to the MF® Team sales@misterfreedom.com with your body measurements and fit expectations  to get educated sizing recommendations.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® CAMPUS BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans Lot64, Special AWA-Ai Fiber Denim Edition, mfsc FW2023. Made in USA

Mister Freedom® CAMPUS BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot64, special AWA-AI fiber denim edition.
mfsc FW2023 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

We are kicking off our FW2023 season with the launch of a USA-made heavy hitter set, the Mister Freedom® CAMPUS BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot64 in a brand spanking new skin, a very special “Awa-ai” indigo denim twill developed in Japan by our friends at Sugar Cane Co.
What in the world is Awa-ai you ask? “Hawaii” pronounced My Fair Lady -style?

Well, sit back and grab the popcorn!

Awa” (阿波国) is the old name of one of the eastern provinces of the Shikoku Island of Japan, lying some 150 miles southwest of Kyoto, a 70-minute flight from Tokyo. The area is known today as the Tokushima Prefecture.
The term “Ai” () is Japanese for indigo, differentiating it from the more generic “Ao” (), meaning blue.
Collectors of antique Japanese textiles are familiar with the term “Ai-Zome” (藍染め) – pronounced eye-zo-meh – which translates to indigo-dyed.

During the Edo period (1603-1868) and Meiji period (1868-1912), the main and most lucrative industry of the Awa Province was producing natural indigo pigments, extracted, fermented and processed from high quality locally-grown Persicaria tinctoria plants. Favorable climate and topography, matched with time-tested artisans’ expertise and trade secrets, made for the success. More history here.

For “wafuku” (和服) – the word that describes Japanese traditional clothing as opposed to the western style “yōfuku” (洋服) – silk was not an option for commoners. More utilitarian fabrics such as hemp, and later cotton, have traditionally been used for everything from farm field clothing, to futon covers, to “Jinbei” (甚平), to samurai kamishimo, to firemen uniforms, to mosquito netting (kaya) etc… Side note, if you’re in our hood (Los Angeles, CA that is), the MF® HQ has a curated antique Japanese textile selection that fashion designers and fabric developers often find inspiring. Also, our frequently-restocked selection of vintage “Boro Ties” is a good overview of the wide range of traditional Japanese textiles produced in the 19th and early 20th Century.

The dye of choice for cotton in Edo-Meiji era Japan was natural indigo, preferred for its darkness (light colors were reserved for the elite), colorfastness, beautiful hues reminiscent of the surrounding sea (check out the blues in Hokusai‘s masterpiece: “Great wave off Kanagawa“, 1831), and even insect-repellent and antibacterial properties. Motifs were applied to the textiles with different traditional methods, from discharge pastes “bassen” (抜染), to intricate ikat weaving techniques such as “kasuri” ().

As the domestic cotton industry prospered in pre-industrial Japan, demand for indigo also increased. Aizome Masters from the Awa Province had the goods, and supplied artisan dyers, home weavers and makers all over Japan with their premium “Awa-ai”.

The “Japan Blue” (i.e. natural indigo) craft still exists today. The tradition in Tokushima Prefecture is passed on by five main surviving Awa-ai dyers, keeping those indigo vats alive, local families focused on quality vs. quantity, natural indigo vs. synthetic, crafting in small batches vs. mass-producing, and a far cry from the international fast-fashion garment-dyeing industry embarrassing track record.

In all fairness, if you’re into vintage or ‘heritage’ denim, synthetic indigo has been commercially used since the 1890s, and is most-likely the type of dye used on the warp yarns of your favorite pair of selvedge jeans. Considering the fabric of, say, a much-coveted pair of original vintage 1940s Levi’s 501 XX – still a reference for all of the heritage denim industry today – was milled with synthetic indigo yarns, not natural indigo, speaks volume.
Natural indigo is not for everyone, as the dye tends to penetrate deeper in the cotton yarn, thereby limiting the desirable high-contrast fades most denimheads look forward to.
I purchased my first pair of natural indigo-dyed jeans in Kyoto in the mid-90s, I believe from the Fullcount or 45rpm brand, and I remember the somewhat slow and muted contrast fading process.

Back on point. Led by Fukutomi Sensei, creative director at Toyo Enterprise, a small group of textile experts from Sugar Cane Co embarked on an epic Awa-ai denim project sometime in 2020…
They got their feet wet by meeting with natural indigo Institute officials, and their hands blue by experimenting with local Tokushima artisan dyers. Visiting Ai-no-Yakata”, the Aizumicho Historical Museum, was also a must.
A color target was decided, a very dark shade of indigo, a hue referred to as “Kachi-iro” or “Katsu-iro (勝色). These Kanji characters literally mean “color of victory”, a specific indigo shade traditionally associated with good fortune, and samurai warriors’ superiority in the battlefield. Legend has it that samurai wore dark indigo garments under their armor in combat, to help prevent wound infections.

After all that R&D, a reputable Kojima mill was approached with the project’s specific: the warp yarns would be Toyo’s own proprietary fancy blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers (the bi-product of the cultivation of sugarcane), and were to be rope-dyed using a blend of synthetic indigo and Awa-ai indigo. The denim mill then got busy weaving the Awa-ai warp yarns with natural weft yarn on narrow shuttle looms.
The result of that endeavor is an outstanding indigo fiber denim selvedge twill, 13 Oz., dark, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan, for one’s eyes dazzlement and legs’ enjoyment!
Mina Sama, otsukaresama deshita!

We were lucky enough to procure some yardage of this Awa-ai denim goodness, and cut a few CAMPUS BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot64 sets, right here in California, USA.

This is the second iteration of the MF® CAMPUS BLOUSE pattern, a woven fabric interpretation of our classic veg-tan leather Campus jacket. The corduroy collar on this edition (leftover yardage from the Continental Rive Gauche production) is a nod to the iconic 1950s blanket-lined Lee® Storm Rider, one of McQueen’s off screen go-to jackets in the 1960s-70s. Refer to this blog post for the saga behind morphing the Campus Jacket into the Campus Blouse.

We figured we’d match our fancy jacket with a pair of cool MF® CALIFORNIAN’s, in one of our most popular and classic Lot64 cut.

The Mister Freedom® CAMPUS BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot64 are designed and made in California, CA, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, both cut from premium SC Awa-ai fiber denim milled in Japan.

 

Mister Freedom® CAMPUS BLOUSE Awa-ai fiber denim edition.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, with all construction/pattern edits necessary for a woven fabric MF® original adaptation.
FABRIC:
Shell: Sugar Cane Co “AWA-ai” fiber denim (blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers), 13 Oz., white/green line selvedge ID, dark indigo hue, dry, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan.
Collar: 14 Oz. wide wale corduroy, 100% cotton, cognac brown color, milled in Japan.
Trims: Black tea-core leather trims (pocket stops/side straps).
DETAILS:
* Woven fabric interpretation of our classic veg-tan leather Campus jacket.
* An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, with all necessary construction/pattern edits.
* Arm/cuff construction borrowed from our Ranch Blouse pattern.
* Trim 1930’s silhouette.
* One-piece back.
* Fully unlined, clean flat-felled seam construction.
* Slash pockets with leather arrowhead pocket stops.
* Side gussets featuring concealed Awa-ai denim selvedge ID.
* Adjustable side straps pattern inspired by our Drover Blouse.
* Keyhole button holes.
* Brown corozo wood ‘Cat Eyes’ buttons (aka ivory nut)
* Mister Freedom® original ‘The Sportsman’ black & gold rayon woven label.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
SIZING:
The Campus Blouse Awa-ai denim comes UN-WASHED, and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
•Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
•Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
•Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

My leather Campus jacket size is 38. I wear a 36 in this Awa-ai denim edition, after cold-soak/line dry, consistent with the sizing of my Campus Blouse Midnight Denim. I am about 5’7 ~142 lbs.
Please check actual post-soak measurements on our chart to dial in what works for your specific body specs/preferred silhouette.

Disclaimer: Using alternative methods for the initial shrink (such as soaking in hot water/full machine wash/heat dryer etc) may result in different sizing measurements. Do not boil this denim jacket, as it has leather trims.

 

 

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Awa-ai fiber denim edition.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly tapered leg for a 50s-60s vibe.
FABRIC:
Sugar Cane Co “AWA-ai” fiber denim (blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers), 13 Oz., white/green line selvedge ID, dark indigo hue, dry, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan.
Pocketing: Fancy NOS 100% cotton twill, woven stripe (navy blue pinstripe on white background.)
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded ‘silver’ tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Fancy NOS stripe twill pocketing.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will patinate with age.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher. Please note that some product photos above feature a black early proto flasher, not the red (“Sakura” edition) actually designed and used for the Awa-ai Californian production.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT64 AWA-Ai denim blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.

These Lot64 Awa-ai are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I (5’7 ~142 Lbs.) opted for a W30 in these, for a classic silhouette. I went un-hemmed and un-cuffed for a “sloppy” period stacking for a change.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to size chart.

CARE for your Awa-ai denim garments:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans and jacket inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot-cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023