Our popular MF® Campus pattern is back this Fall, this time in a vibrant suede cow-split leather.
For those who wonder, the name is a quaint reference to the 1991 flick “Johnny Suede”, which I watched some twenty-five years ago, and can’t remember the first thing about, besides the catchy title and Brad Pitt’s big hair.
While out shopping for hides from local suppliers, we selected this particular leather not just for its convincing vintage orange-brown color, a rich cognac tone reminiscent of classic 40’s-50’s suede sportswear jackets, but also because of its durable quality feel, as this is a leather grade used to make western riding chaps. For those eagerly awaiting Mister Freedom® leather chaps, the wait is not yet over.
As its veg-tan cowhide Campus predecessor, initially introduced in 2013 and still produced today in the USA, the MF® “JOHNNY” is unlined. Not a way to save on lining fabric, but rather a nod to unlined “Cossack” leather sports coat models popular in the 1930’s, and a real challenge construction-wise when striving to keep clean seams inside & out.
If the Veg-tan cowhide MF® Campus really takes on a new dimension and beautifies over time (according to the owner’s activity, leather expertise, frequency of wear, conditioning choices and patina preference), the JOHNNY is good-to-go from the get-go.
We do not recommend any initial special spraying or conditioning to make the garment weather-proof or stain-repellent. We have not tested anything really convincing on suede, most treatments will result in an irreversible darkening of the suede leather, and shoe products should definitely not be used on a sport jacket… The old standard practice of dubbing roughout service boots in the military (see tips from our friend Mosquito_Boat) doesn’t apply here.
We believe that our “JOHNNY” Campus has its own dress-up feel, and will benefit from being kept ‘clean’ to age gracefully. The desirable rugged attitude of its Veg-Tan cowhide counterpart properly-worn and conditioned (see the amazing results on Vintage_Engineer_Boots‘ own Campus jacket, with the whole process detailed here) may not work with this suede leather release.
We might be proven wrong and come across a beat-up “JOHNNY” specimen with killer natural patina in a few years (keep an eye on the ultra-talented artist Mark Maggiori‘s IG), but until then, understand that it’s the nature of a casual suede leather sport jacket to be vulnerable to the elements, and Ketchup®. Please wear and feast accordingly.
The rugged MF® Veg-Tan Campus jacket initially released in 2013.
Perso Campus jacket, after 1.5 year of intermittent wear
The MF® “JOHNNY” Campus in suede cattlehide is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.
SPECS: PATTERN: An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear type lightweight and unlined leather jackets.
LEATHER: Durable and supple suede cattlehide with a soft nap, aka cow-split leather, a grade used to make western riding chaps. Cognac color.
DETAILS: * 1930’s silhouette * One piece back * Fully unlined, clean seams inside & out. * Cotton corduroy collar and wrist cuff facing * Slash pockets with arrowhead-shaped edges. * Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles) * Keyhole button holes. * Brown ‘Cat-Eyes’ corozo wood buttons (aka ivory nut), backed by contrasting ivory-color corozo support buttons. * Underarm venting eyelets * Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ woven label behind the slash pocket, right front panel. * High stitch-count, sturdy poly-cotton thread stitching. * Made in California, USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® “JOHNNY” Campus Jacket does not require any type of pre-treatment or conditioning and is ready to wear as-is. This garment is cut quite slim but is considered true-to-size.
I wear a slim-fitting size 38 in the “JOHNNY” Campus Jacket, my usual size in mfsc jackets. Keep in mind that we are referring to a classic old-school type fit, not a contemporary streetwear silhouette.
Please refer to approximate measurement in chart below.
This is quite a delicate jacket, not intended to be worn while working in the field but rather as a dress-up garment.
It does not require any type of pre-treatment and is ready to wear as-is. Cleaning should be left-up to your local professional leather cleaning environmentally-friendly facility. DISCLAIMER: Due to the unlined quality of this jacket, some staining of a garment worn under or over might occur. Please consider that color transfer on a light color shirt might be challenging to remove with regular laundry methods.
Mister Freedom® TRADE Shirt & NIXON Shirt, double calico twill. mfsc Surplus Fall 2018. Made in Japan.
We released our first double calico discharge print novelty fabric during the swinging days of our Gypsy Blues collection, in the form of a swanky shirt, the Fall 2017 Liquette Manouche.
The inspiration for that fabric came, as often with what we do, from old rags collected over the years. Here is how the concept of a double-sided fabric was introduced on the original post:
“…we figured we’d chalenge our friends at Toyo Enterprises with a new puzzling favor: a double discharge-printed calico fabric! Inspired by a rare French 1930’s vintage garment, we had been contemplating the idea for some years, and thought it was time to mail an R&D package across the Pacific, attention Toyo’s Textile Lab… We opted for a black, crisp cotton twill as the base fabric, and painstakingly selected two distinctive traditional calico patterns from antique textiles and swatches collected over the years. For production, the two subtlety-contrasting calico patterns are discharge-printed, on both the face and reverse of the fabric (i.e. “bleached-out” with low bleed-through.)…”
The calico patterns we selected this Fall came from the archives of a Parisian industrial drawing study (see ink stamp that reads Dessins Industriels “A. MAUSES”, Paris, 13 Rue du Sentier in the back of the design cards), who apparently got contracted by a textile-printing mill for original fabric prints, sometimes in the 1930’s~50’s. We scored these hand-painted goodies in a Parisian flea market, years ago. One of the pattern is a fairly traditional stripe-effect repeat (fabric of the Nixon Shirt), contrasting with the more “Liberty Print” or polka-dot style of the other (Trade Shirt). And no, these are not UFO’s. It is unsure whether either graphic was ever selected and made it as a fabric print at the time.
From MF® design archives, antique French hand-painted graphic repeats used for fabric printing.
Both shirt patterns have been introduced previously in Mister Freedom® collections, and have since become wardrobe staples, from Los Angeles, CA., to remote parts of the Atacama Desert. The TRADE Shirt pattern is from our 2012 Men Of The Frontieryippee ki-yay days, and the Nixon Shirt made its first appearance in the Fall 2017 Surplus collection.
Both the Mister Freedom® mfsc TRADE Shirt and NIXON Shirt are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.
Please note that, although cut from double-sided printed fabric, neither the NIXON or TRADE shirts are reversible.
SPECS: FABRIC: A crisp 5 Oz. black 100% cotton twill, double-printed with two specific antique calico patterns on face and reverse, using a discharge-print technique. Milled and printed in Japan exclusively for mfsc.
1) MF® TRADE Shirt Double Calico: DETAILS: * An original mfsc pattern, early American homesteader style, a silhouette reminiscent of old Frontier days and Native Americans adopting non-traditional western fashions, as seen on period field photography, such as Adam Clark Vroman or Edward S Curtis’ works. This is an updated version of the original 2012 Mister Freedom® TRADE Shirt. * Pull-over tunic style. * Double-side printed fabric (non-reversible garment). * Stand collar with chin strap. * Back panel and cuffs shearing. * Tonal corozo wood buttons. * Indigo popeline button placket facing, with period-style “Union” ticket. * Early European-style side gussets, arrowhead patch pattern. * Flat felled chain-stitch seams and single needle machine construction. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * Original mfsc “SURPLUS” woven rayon patch. * Made in Japan from fabric milled in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® TRADE Shirt in double calico comes raw/unwashed, and will all shrink to tagged size. Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. The MF® TRADE Shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I opted for a comfortable Medium in the MF® TRADE Shirt. Please refer to chart to determine which size works for you.
FW2018 Trade Shirt size chart
2) MF® NIXON Shirt Double Calico: DETAILS: * A garment pattern inspired by an original 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray shirt, and other vintage work shirts such as Big Mac®, Big Dick®, Big Yank®, etc… * Trim silhouette with a 1940’s uniform vibe. * Fancy double-layer left chest pocket with flap, known as “cigarette pocket”, in which you should put anything but cigarettes. * Slanted opening right-side pocket with pen slot. * Tonal corozo wood buttons. * Chin strap collar, with vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons on the collar band. * Hi-count triple stitch construction. * Green bar-tack accents on pockets. * MF® Surplus green contrast chainstitch on the inside. * Side gussets. * Original Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label. * Made in Japan from fabric milled in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® NIXON Shirt Chambray in double calico comes raw/unwashed and will all shrink to tagged size. Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. The MF® NIXON Shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I opted for a slim-fitting Medium in the MF® NIXON Shirt. Please refer to chart to determine which size works for you.
FW2018 Nixon Shirt size chart
CARE: Wash your shirt when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid potential marbling. Machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Available raw (un-washed) Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large
The ROUGHRIDER Blouse, the latest Mike Foxtrot denim jacket.
Proper compañero of the Mister Freedom® Roughrider, the MF® Californian Lot.64 OG, NOS Organic Cone Mills denim twill (2018), for a touch of Canadian elegance.
Mister Freedom® ROUGHRIDER Blouse, NOS Organic 15.5 Oz.Cone Mills selvedge indigo denim twill. Fall 2018 mfsc Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.
This year, we decided to welcome a new player in the happy family of MF® denim jackets. We’re calling it the ROUGHRIDER, because we’re loco like that.
This all-original MF® jacket pattern should have chronologically been introduced after our Ranch Blouse model (considered a “type I” trucker jacket, initially released in 2011) and before the Cowboy Jacket (considered a “type III”, initially released in 2015). The ROUGHRIDER is indeed a modified version of our classic Ranch Blouse, and the harbinger of the Cowboy Jacket, but we’ve been known to time-travel a bit, through our eclectic capsule collections. Novelty-wise, don’t alert HypeBeast just yet, as the MF® Design Dept. got lazy as a dodo on this one. We basically grabbed the old school Ranch Blouse pattern, slapped on an extra pocket flap, borrowed the collar shape from Uncle Sam, and threw in a left-over lining for good measure.
For this first iteration of the ROUGHRIDER however, the jacket gets a royal treat: the final precious yardage of New Old Stock Cone 15.5 Oz organic denim twill, a remarquable textile achievement courtesy of the now-defunct Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C. We have previously featured this rare and amazing denim on a version of the MF® Californian Blue Jeans, the Lot.64 OG released in the Spring of 2018, for those interested in adding a touch of perfectly-matching and eye-soothing Canadian elegance to their wardrobe.
For more background on this very special denim, here is a quote from our friend Chip at Cone Denim, who reached-out early this year to give us some insightful technical intel. Chip knows a thing or two about this organic indigo denim, as he personally helped develop it at the time: “We (Cone Denim) partnered with Stony Creek Colors in Tennessee who are working with Tobacco farmers to change their crops into indigo plant. This is how the fabric gets to be such a vibrant blue, and is completely unique from any other dye we have ever run in the past. It truly is one of the greatest, and most sustainable, selvedges we put out: Texas organic cotton, America indigo plant dye, all woven here in the US.”
All this might sound like re-hashed fashions for the fiercest keyboard cowboy, but the result is kinda… f’in stellar, if we can say so ourselves. With its beautiful hue of indigo, rare denim, traditional yet original pattern, that ROUGHRIDER number is a darn good-looking jacket, versatile, ethically made, and guaranteed to beautify with wear.
The Mister Freedom® ROUGHRIDER Blouse is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 15.5 Oz. indigo twill denim, Organic cotton, solid white selvedge ID. Lining: Soft-hand 100% cotton brushed flannel with a 1940’s-50’s-inspired vibrant plaid pattern, discharge-printed. Fabric milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage denim “trucker” type jackets, and previously-released Mister Freedom® versions. * Modified collar pattern, early American work blouse style. * ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette. * Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching. * Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets. * Selvedge front panel fold. * Contrast printed flannel pocket flap facing. * Contrast 10 Oz. “Okinawa 301” collar facing. * Metal cast MF® branded buttons, ‘oxidized’ brass. * Buckle back, adjustable, riveted. * Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked. * Combination yellow/orange 100% cotton stitching. * Original mfsc debossed veg-tan leather patch. * Made in USA.
SIZING FIT: The MF® ROUGHRIDER comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol cold soak/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry. The pattern of the ROUGHRIDER has been adjusted to take into account the extra layer of the lining. I wear my Ranch Blouse size in the ROUGHRIDER, a comfortable 38 (cold-soaked/hung dry), as opposed to a slim 36 in the Cowboy Jacket pattern. Fit photo shows a cardboard-like Roughrider Blouse size 38, fresh-out of the cold soak/line dry process. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
DENIM CARE: Wash your ROUGHRIDER Blouse when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the indigo denim warp side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim garment.
Just enjoy the journey and the satisfaction of wearing an ethically-made garment. Your Mister Freedom® denim jacket will age gracefully, and to your own beat.
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY. Sizes 34 X-small 36 Small 38 Medium 40 Large 42 X-Large 44 XX-Large
Mister Freedom® CPO Shirt & Naval Chinos, limited “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition. Surplus collection mfsc Fall 2018. Made in Japan.
What we have here is our elusive 2009 blue shirt pattern, familiar to the MF® OGs, and its Naval Clothing Tailor khaki-legged friend, both given the GB denim treatment.
After an epic 2016 apparition in a smashing OMG-so-stiff-it-makes-my-body-ache 11.7 Oz. indigo canvas fabric, the ol’ MF® blue CPO and Chinos are indeed turning green this Fall.
Mustering-up our best one-trick-pony skills and cow-milking mastery, this 2018 iteration features an old mfsc flame, the olive green 10 Oz. selvedge denim twill inspired by 1940’s-50’s British military utility fabric. This green denim was initially introduced in 2016 via the Garrison shirt and twill pants combo, during our exciting and controversial 2015 Saigon Cowboy season and its fierce keyboard snipers.
The traditional “Liberty” treatment to US Navy dress blues and other garments is by now familiar to all heritage clothing aficionados. We have often respectfully ‘played’ with that concept of custom concealed style extravaganza.
See gallery below for a brief visual recap.
Old photo of the original “blue shirt” (2008)
MF® CPO shirt 189ac (2016)
MF® Naval Chinos type No.266ac (2016)
Well worn Garrison shirt (2016) and raw CPO, cut from the same GB denim.
This season, we decided to give a 1966 “The Sand Pebbles” classic movie twist to our fictional CPO and Chinos combo. For those interested in the historical background of Opium Wars, or intrigued by the sound of “… when U.S. warships patrolled China’s rivers…”, a condensed summary of the period can be found here.
So as to not get lost down the usual rabbit hole, we will leave authentic 1920’s stories of the U.S. Asiatic Fleet to military buffs, and refer you to Hollywood’s light version of things, for an excitement-filled evening with Jake Holman and the USS San Pablo patrolling the Yangtze in 1926.
The MF® CPO shirt and Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.
SPECS: FABRIC: “GB denim twill”: An olive green warp and natural weft 100% cotton twill, 10 Oz., orange color selvedge ID. Inspired by the fabric of 1940’s-50’s British military utility overalls and blouses. Milled in Japan.
MF® CPO shirt “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition: DETAILS: * Original mfsc shirt pattern initially released in 2008, freely inspired by period USN uniforms, 1930’s – 1940’s military shirting, naval custom tailoring and vintage “Chief Petty Officer” type shirts. * Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring vintage-style ’Liberty cuffs’, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors. * Concealed mfsc dragon embroidered patches on cuffs, 100% rayon. * Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…) * Concealed chest passport/iPhone® pocket. * Original MF® inverted box-pleat arcuate single chest pocket design. * Chin strap. * Selvedge side gussets. * Vintage style button front placket, anodized black snap closure. * Waist closure and chin strap USN plastic anchor button. * Reinforcement shoulder yoke, vintage uniform style. * Arcuate back yoke. * OD popeline facing. * Curvy front and back shirt tails. * Tonal 100% cotton stitching. * Designed in USA, manufactured in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The “San PABLO” CPO Shirt in GB denim comes raw/unwashed/loomstate. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments: * 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry. * As an optional step, wear the garment briefly while still damp, in order to shape it to your body and set your own creases. Hang and let fully dry (try to shape the gshirt on the hanger to look as if you are still wearing it.)
Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear. The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I am a Medium in most mfsc shirting and opted for a Medium in the “SAN PABLO” CPO shirt. No need to size up or down from your usual mfsc shirting size. The military-inspired and uniform-style cut emphasizes a broad shoulders and slim waist silhouette. Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.
CARE: Wash your shirt when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.
Available RAW/unwashed. SIZES: Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large
MF® Naval Chinos “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition: DETAILS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Limited 2018 “SAN PABLO” Liberty edition, featuring a vintage-style ’Liberty’ patch, inspired by traditional local tailor artwork and custom embroidery, popular amongst U.S. Asiatic Fleet sailors.
* Concealed embroidered mfsc dragon 100% rayon patch on bottom leg, over-riding an un-marked military-style ID patch. * Concealed rainbow-colored chainstitch on the inside, a common feature of Asia-made traditional embroidered souvenir-type garments (robes, tunics, “party” jackets, etc…) * Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing. * Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons. * Thin trousers-style belt-loops. * Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing. * Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID. * Flat-felled leg seams. * Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching. * Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband. * Made in Japan, designed in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The “SAN PABLO” Naval Chinos in GD denim come raw/unwashed/loomstate. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments: * 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub. * Spin dry cycle (if using a machine). * Hang dry.
Following this routine, the garment will be quite stiff when dry, due to the re-activated starch contained in the denim fibers. This is perfectly normal and expected for fabrics not processed with unnecessary softeners at the milling stage. This temporary stiffness will rapidly subside with normal wear. The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers. Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above soaking method.
CARE: Wash your pants when necessary. We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid marbling on the olive green denim warp side. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Subtle patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear. For a natural patina and attractive color contrasts, refrain from over-washing your denim shirt. Just enjoy the journey, and your ethically-made garment will age gracefully, without unnecessary prior factory-distressing process.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.