Mister Freedom® “Liquette Tzigane”, indigo cotton/wool herringbone twill. GYPSY BLUES mfsc collection Fall 2017. Made in Japan.
The grand finale of our Hot Jazz opus, the mfsc “Gypsy Blues” 2017 collection, a venture into the world of ‘swing manouche‘, wraps-up with a Fall iteration of the Liquette Tzigane. The pattern of this garment is inspired by several vintage 1920’s-30’s fancy shirt specimen, twisted à-la MF®.
Liquette is an old French argot (slang) term designating a man’s shirt, as-in the recently released Liquette Manouche. The word Tzigane (or Tsigane) can be used to designate a person of Eastern European Romani ancestry, although the term hints at a specific culture within the Gypsy world (often with a musical connotation) rather than a geographic origin. Sounds of lamenting violins playing “Les Yeux Noirs” around the campfire, with a string of caravans in the background, come to mind.
Initially released in a fine indigo calico discharge-printed cotton popeline, our Spring 2017 take on the vintage Hungarian folk textile family called Kékfestés, the colder-months’ counterpart of the Liquette Tzigane comes in a 9.5 Oz. indigo yarn-dyed cotton-wool blend. With the 70% cotton content, this handsome fabric feels quite ‘dry’ to the touch, without any itchiness. It has a very dark navy blue tone, anecdotally reminiscent of vintage US Navy wool CPO shirts.
The Liquette Tzigane indigo HBT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar cane Co.
Musical Note: I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Samy Daussat this summer, during the 2017 Los Angeles Django Festival. A knowledgeable Gypsy Jazz aficionado and talented guitar player, Samy is also blessed with teaching skills. Attendees to his master class held during the two-day event attested to that.
For those interested in this traditional Gypsy Swing style of playing guitar, Samy does a great job at deciphering and making sense of some of the specifics of Django Reinhardt’s improvising genius. His YouTube tutorials are in French, but any international guitar slinger with a Hot Club de France inclination will get the point. And classes are free!
The 2017 LA Django Festival was organized by Mr. Tommy Davy, himself expert on everything manouche guitar-related and a skilled musician. For vintage Selmer-Maccaferri-type guitar urges, browse through Tommy’s inventory of Django-style goodness, and listen to his own recorded musical prowess. Tommy also draws on traditional gypsy folk music to fuel his Trio Dinicu slavic and Tzigane-flavored repertoire.
And, to dismiss the cliche that all that jazz is just a dude thing, do check out what Christelle Caillot is bringing to the manouche guitar table.
SPECS: FABRIC: 9.5 Oz. cotton-wool blend, indigo yarn-dyed herringbone twill weave. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * Inspired by 1920’s-1930’s fancy shirting. * Versatile collar pattern with double button tab, fashionable as a classic open collar, cutaway style or high-buttoned. * Original MF® pocketing (from the 2012 MF® Prairie Shirt). * Indigo poplin button placket facing. * Early shirting curvy tails. * Side gussets. * Corozo wood buttons, indigo blue color. * Shirred back yoke and cuffs. * High-count stitching, early shirting narrow chainstitch construction. * Original mfsc Gypsy Blues woven rayon label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® Liquette Tzigane indigo HBT comes raw/unwashed. Follow the usual initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. Unlike its Spring 2017 Kékfestés version for which we advised to size-up, the Liquette Tzigane indigo cotton-wool HBT is pretty much true to size, and actually features a rather generous fit allowing winter layering. I opted for a size Medium in this shirt, with a comfortable fit when worn with a classic chambray shirt, Saint-Malo jersey etc…
Please refer to chart to figure out which size works for you. “Rinsed” means soaked for 30mn in cold water, spin dry and hang dry. When in doubt, email email@example.com for sizing advice.
CARE: This garment is made from is a cotton-wool blend fabric. Do not wash in hot water or boil to avoid excessive shrinkage and damage to the fabric. Machine wash on delicate when needed, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Available raw/unwashed. Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large Retail: $349.95
The pattern of the Liquette Manouche was inspired by a vintage 1930’s-40’s French pull-over garment from the MF® archives. This shirt features a col requin (shark-fin-shaped open collar, later to be associated with casual 1950’s European sportswear style shirting), a two-button front half placket, shirred back yoke, and classic early EU tailoring arrowhead-shaped side gussets, precursor of the now-common ‘heritage’ workwear design gimmick.
Liquette is an old French argot (slang) term simply designating a man’s shirt. A Manouche is a person of Western European Romani ancestry. Belgium-born Django Reinhardt, mastermind of the world-renowned musical style Jazz Manouche in the 1930’s, is one of the most illustrious French Manouche. Etymologically, the term “Gypsy” finds its roots in the word “Egyptian”, as the mysterious nomads were originally believed to have migrated from Egypt. It is commonly accepted today that their journey originated from India, sometime in the 14th century. These West-bound Romani travelers hauled along traditions, lifestyle and costumes. Their India-rooted Bohemian style tends to be associated today with flamboyant garb and vibrant indiennes prints.
Anecdotally, authentic India-designed prints could be considered as precursors of the quintessentially-British Liberty London style, as they were originally available from Arthur Liberty’s first retail venture in London (England), a bazar he had appropriately named ‘East India House’ in 1875, specializing in imported Oriental goods. He went on to opt for local production and designs, with great success.
For Fall 2017, we figured we’d chalenge our friends at Toyo Enterprises with a new puzzling favor: a double discharge-printed calico fabric! Inspired by a rare French 1930’s vintage garment, we had been contemplating the idea for some years, and thought it was time to mail an R&D package across the Pacific, attention Toyo’s Textile Lab. We then resumed our daily tasks and assignments, mostly consisting of chasing Pokémon around the office. We opted for a black, crisp cotton twill as the base fabric, and painstakingly selected two distinctive traditional calico patterns from antique textiles and swatches collected over the years. For production, the two subtlety-contrasting calico patterns are discharge-printed, on both the face and reverse of the fabric (i.e. “bleached-out” with low bleed-through), and then printed with actual indigo ink.
How this technically works is actually still quite puzzling to us savvy experts of the MF® HQ Team of Pikachu Specialists, but the resulting double-sided fabric is quite outstanding. We can thank and congratulate our Sugar Cane friends for delivering such a beautiful and original textile.
Please note that, although attractive both inside and out, this garment is not reversible, therefore not optimal for the French shower.
The MF® Liquette Manouche is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: A crisp 10 Oz. 100% cotton twill, double-printed in indigo with two specific calico patterns on face and reverse, using a discharge-print technique.
Milled and printed in Japan exclusively for mfsc.
DETAILS: * Inspired by 1930’s French shirting and vintage bohemian style. * Pull-over style, two button placket. * ‘Col Requin’ style open collar. * Corozo wood buttons. * Shirred back yoke and cuffs. * Early-type arrowhead side gussets. * Contrasting front/back shirt tail. * Original mfsc Gypsy Blues woven rayon label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® Liquette Manouche in double calico comes raw/unwashed. Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. This shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirts and i opted for a comfortable Medium in the Liquette Manouche. Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. If still confused, email firstname.lastname@example.org
CARE: Machine wash on delicate when needed, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Available raw/unwashed. Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large Retail:$359.95
Design-wise, we simply stripped the US Navy Peacoat early pattern from most of its maritime lineage, save for the two small anchor buttons concealed under the collar to keep the throat latch in place. We basically turned the iconic nautical garment into a lightweight, casual and classic-looking jacket with an outdoor vibe. Those familiar with the MF® catalog will notice that we have already given manyskins to the P-jacket through the years. We wanted a totally new garment this time, blending the vibes of seafaring jackets, Mackinaw coats, US Army M1938 jeep crew coats, vintage casual and old-school utilitarian garments.
The shell fabric we opted for is an old favorite, a US military vintage mil-specs cotton-back sateen cloth, shade Olive Green #107. Access to this special fabric is courtesy of our friend Mr. Kameha, expert Quartermaster at Buzz Rickson’s, the illustrious military uniform-related branch of Toyo Enterprises. We have previously featured this fabric, both on the FW 2014 OG 107 Down Vest and an iteration of the Sportsman Chinos.
For the lining, we opted for a soft-hand printed cotton flannel (same vibrant fabric we cut our 2013 Camp Flannel Shirt from), contributing in giving the MAC jacket its outdoorsy 1950’s flair.
The inspiration for combining the olive green sateen with natural-color leather pocket accents (arrow-head pocket stops and piping) came from an old pair of vintage US Army cold-weather mittens featuring a similar OD poplin shell/leather facing combo. Overtime, the leather acquires an attractive patina, complimenting the olive green fabric. The traditional double pocketing of the lining has been updated for the 21st Century by adjusting the size of the “cigarette pocket” to fit the average smart phone, rather than a pack of Lucky Strike.
The Mac Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: Shell: Mil-specs 9 Oz. cloth, 4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) cotton-back sateen, Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green, Pantone Color approx reference would be 450 U), milled in Japan. Lining: 100% cotton brushed flannel, discharge-printed with a vintage-inspired plaid pattern. Milled and printed in Japan.
DETAILS: * Pattern based on the early US Navy 10-button melton wool Pea-Jacket. * Brown corozo wood buttons. * Four outside pockets, two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure pockets. All lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy. * Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (converted into an iPhone6-size pocket). * Natural-color leather piping and arrowhead reinforcement on pocket edges. * 1950’s-style plaid print soft-hand 100% cotton flannel body lining. * Removable chin strap (displaying OD shell or red lining fabric when left dangling, or concealed when buttoned under the collar.) * Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching. * Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® Mac Jacket comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial cold soak/rinse and line dry. The jacket will shrink to tagged size. This garment is true-to-size. I tend to wear a 38 (Medium) in mfsc jackets, and opted for a slim-fitting 38 in the Mac jacket. The fit is quite snug (wearing a Skivvy T and a Garrison Shirt on the fit pix), so if you are in-between sizes, go for the size up. Please note that the lining will shrink slightly more than the shell, and will tend to ‘pull’ after the garment is rinsed/dried. This is intentional, and a typical (and quite desirable effect) of vintage clothing. Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry.
CARE: We recommend professional dry-cleaning, in your local eco-friendly facility. However, this garment can be hand-washed or laundered on DELICATE, cold water, minimal detergent. Due to the bulkiness and weight of the garment when wet, make sure the capacity of your equipment is adequate before attempting a machine wash at home. Hang dry.
Available raw/unwashed. Sizes 36 Small 38 Medium 40 Large 42 X-Large 44 XX-Large Retail $769.95
Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, printed corduroy. “Surplus” catalog mfsc FW 2017. Made in Japan.
This is the fourth addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. The MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog.
For the office anecdote-inclined, we used to refer to this pattern as the ‘Dick Shirt’ during R&D, but eventually settled on ‘Nixon’ for the official release, for obvious reasons.
The pattern of our ‘Nixon’ shirt is largely inspired by an original 1950’s vintage “Roomy Richard” chambray work shirt, a now-defunct American workwear label established in the late 1920’s. The main appeal of that vintage piece was for us the tricky double-layer ‘cigarette’ chest pocket pattern, somewhat reminiscent of the famous Big Yank pocket, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. That pocket was designed to keep the worker’s cigarette pack dry.
Original 1940’s vintage “Roomy Richard” work shirt packaging.
If most of us today know better than to donate towards the cause of tobacco companies by purchasing their wares, the practical little pocket can still be used as double storage for, say, both an iPhone and a public transportation ticket/smart card. Beside this fancy characteristic, our Nixon shirt features a chin-strap, triple stitch construction and side gussets, all classic attributes of old-school vintage work shirts.
The fabric we opted for is a 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern typical of 1940’s-1950’s vintage outdoor gear, mimicking the appearance of woven checks. Because of the limited bleed-through printing, the reverse of the fabric displays the solid color of the base fabric, not unlike our Sportsman printed Camp Flannel Shirt from 2013. This printed corduroy was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan, and is released for Fall 2017 in two color options, red plaid and blue plaid.
The Nixon Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: A 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern. Milled and printed in Japan.
Two color options, blue and red.
DETAILS: * A pattern inspired by a 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray, and other vintage work shirts. * Trim silhouette. * Fancy double-layer left chest pocket, known as “cigarette pocket”. * Corozo wood buttons. * Chin strap, featuring vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons. * Triple stitch construction. * Side gussets. * Tonal stitching. * Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® printed corduroy Nixon Shirt comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial cold soak/rinse and line dry. The shirt will shrink to tagged size. This garment is true-to-size. I wear a Medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting. The fit is quite trim, with a tapered waist for a slim silhouette. Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry.
CARE: Launder when needed. Machine-wash on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent, line dry.
Available raw (un-washed) Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large